TOU : Thanks for posting the pictures. The old M.1 trigger is a modified Mauser trigger that can be adjusted for reasonably good two-stage let off.
1. Turn the small screw behind the trigger in until it touches the receiver. At this point it'll feel like a creepy single-stage trigger.
2. Back out the small screw one turn at a time while testing the let-off. One can feel the difference between "take-up" and "let-off" (before and after the small screw touches the receiver).
3. Once you lose the "let-off" and it become a creepy single-stage again (but lighter than when you started), turn the small screw back in half a turn to get the second pull. Fine adjustment to taste.

The large slotted head screw acts as trigger stop.

 

TOU : Thanks for posting the pictures.

You are most certainly welcome! I only wish we could replace your M1 for you as well.

1. Turn the small screw behind the trigger in until it touches the receiver.

I usually back mine off only slightly..maybe a 1/2 to a full turn from the receiver. As noted, I think a brick or two makes these two surfaces smooth out quite a bit...which also explains why this tends to "lighten" somewhat over time. Also a (very small) bit of CLP ect between these two surfaces helps "smooth" the creepiness out a bit.

The large slotted head screw acts as trigger stop.

Does this not effectively adjust out some of the "creep"? It seems to have this effect for me as I can virtually eliminate it on mine by the two adjustments and still be left with a fairly light trigger.

Additionally, one needs to be careful on this, as I have also adjusted these so tight that you can not get the trigger to pull...or conversely one can make the trigger almost unsafe. My brother's is so light with zero "creep", that it's concerning to lend to those who are not used to or aware of it....Actually he shot a whole in his SUV once.

 

These picture show the difference between a two stage trigger and a single stage trigger.

The model 1/3 trigger's rear screw adjust the takeup while the front screw adjust the engagement of the sear/trigger and hence the creep of the final stage.

The model 2/4/etc. trigger is only adjustable for trigger pull weight with the nut on the spring strut. The Brook kit as used on the 452 puts sleeves on the second from the front pin (resting on the bottom of the barrel) that forces the trigger rearward to "pre-pull" it, minimising the sear/trigger engagement , hence minimising the creep. There is also an adjustable sear that does the same with a screw.

Good contrasting pictures for seeing the difference between versions of single and two stage triggers.

LDBennett

 

Great information, both the pictures and the text. Thanks, all!

 

Glad you liked it...so is this the trigger you have OS?

Nick & LD....excellent explanation and input. I intentionally left this open as I knew you all would explain it better than I ever could. Thx for all you do...your concise descriptions, directions and input is of great value and appreciated! :t

 

I second what the Swede said.

 

Great pictures and information folks - THANK YOU TOU and others for posting it. I agree with sentiment above - pictures really say it best. :t

 

thanks guys.great info as always!!:t
pete

 

With these two trigger configurations, Where do the #3s (Stecher) come in? Are there similiar traits? Adjustability? Modifications?
Dumac

 

They are adjustable but completely different. I would have to say that the closest or at least most similiar may be the Brno ZBK-465's and FOX, FOX II as well as the the 21's. Hopefully Nick or Denny will chip in here as I have only owned the FOX II and it was several years ago.

 

Here is a little bit more info to add to Tou's post...

the other #1 trigger, which is what my #1 has. Sorry, but I had a bit of trouble with glare so my pics are not as good as Tou's.

another view:

note: the red arrow indicates the pin that holds the trigger in place. The blue arrow shows where the trigger spring resides. I replaced the stock spring with a lighter one which helped the pull weight a lot. On the other end of the assembly you may be able to make out a bit of light colored grey material. This is a bit of epoxy which I added to reduce sear engagement a bit, helping remove a little creep. Same principle as the Brooks kit sleeve.

The two red arrows highlight the odd thing about this trigger. It has two captive rollers which rest against the under side of the action when the trigger is in place. They act as a rolling fulcrum when you pull the trigger. They are responsible for much of the creep I suspect, but also are likely the reason the pull weight is so light, especially for a military training rifle. This trigger breaks at just over a pound, measured with a Lyman gauge.

 

the other #1 trigger, which is what my #1 has. Sorry, but I had a bit of trouble with glare so my pics are not as good as Tou's.

Nice job Scotty and I thought the pics were pretty dang useful. :bthumb: Thx for stepping up and posting them as I'm sure it will be helpful to others. Nice job with the epoxy, I didn't think of that. I know that CB900F has one like this that's in nearly pristine shape that he was saving for his son...still had the original cosmoline on it. As to the ages, I'm guessing that most were early, but the one I had was a later vintage. I think it was just available that way much like the CZ 513 basic is now. I wished someone would post some pics of it's trigger to compare....might prove interesting.

Incidentally, I used to have one like yours and gave it as a gift to my father. Canada kinda went through a time where you had to limit the # of rifles you had before becoming officially a "collector". So he decided that he didn't really want it and gave it back to me saying he had other rifles he liked better...never even shot it. I wasn't impressed...I immediately sold it. Kinda wished I'd kept it from a collector's point of view now but wasn't a collector then...and was a bit irritated so wanted it gone. Silly now as I think about it ...but that was several years ago. Times change....

 

Single Stage Trigger

Beammeupscotty you have Brno Mauser single stage nonadjustable trigger which is part of the original design back to 40's. I 1949 this trigger was replaced by two stage adjustable Brno Mauser type of trigger.

 

Thanks for that info Denny. Can I assume that because the trigger is

of that era, that the gun itself is likely an early version? This is one of the CAI guns with a Walnut stock and lacks a date stamp.

 

TOU : I used that big screw as trigger stop. After adjusting the rear screw for distinct take-up and let-off, the front screw was turned in until it's head would catch the front edge of the trigger piece right after the firing pin release.

But that screw also provides another adjustment option, as posted by LDBennett 15 minutes after I did on 12-12-2006...

"... the front screw adjust the engagement of the sear/trigger and hence the creep of the final stage."

That large screw, when turned in far enough, would push against the underside of the receiver, moving the sear down and thus reducing total engagement.

 

TOU : I used that big screw as trigger stop. After adjusting the rear screw for distinct take-up and let-off, the front screw was turned in until it's head would catch the front edge of the trigger piece right after the firing pin release.

True, I also noticed you can adjust this so far down that you can't even release the trigger...just need to back it off a turn or two and you will find a sweet spot so long as the rear screw is touching. A bit heavy though.

But that screw also provides another adjustment option, as posted by LDBennett 15 minutes after I did on 12-12-2006...

"... the front screw adjust the engagement of the sear/trigger and hence the creep of the final stage."

Agreed...thx for the reminder, great info.

That large screw, when turned in far enough, would push against the underside of the receiver, moving the sear down and thus reducing total engagement.

Exactly...as noted above, so long as you don't do this too tight as you then have no engagement.

As always Nick, great input. I was playing with one last night which had a pretty decent trigger. I pulled it out of the stock to see where it was set from CAI. Both screws were completely threaded out with no engagement whatsoever. Believe it or not, it was a great trigger!

 

Just added "beammeupscotty's" trigger picture in the original post on this thread showing the two Model #1's triggers compared side by side as well as a link about them. Great job Scotty.

 

Sticky this thread!!!!!

Informative tech. info and super pics (if they can be made "permanently" available) make this thread an ideal candidate for a sticky. Many discussions where a "picture is worth a thousand words" could simply be referenced to it.

 

This thread should be a sticky, how to make it so?

Chris!

 

Thx guys for the vote of confidence and thx Nick and Scotty. However, I have made my own personal Sticky page of CZ-RFC links. Just click on the Brno Logos in my signature and my write ups and some specific technical thread s are linked. I keep meaning to go back and find some of the others and will one of these days.

 

Could you get a model one two stage trigger down to about 2lbs?

 

Here is a trigger job for a model 1 and model 3.

http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=389669