BKL 1-piece in whatever height works with your cheek weld.

 

Unless I'm missing something, anything you get will have to make use of the 3/8" dovetail rail already on the rifle. I don't know what mount(s) came with your air guns. But, your rifles do have a rail mounted on top of their receivers that looks something like this, right?

If so, your choices boil down to three:

1) You can buy scope rings which mount directly on the rifle. There are several different brands and models of rings available, some of which include a 'stop pin' to engage one or more of the 'stop holes in the RWS rail. From your statement, this is not the way you want to go.

2) You can buy a 1-piece "C" mount which is essentially a rigid mounting rail with non-adjustable rings built in.

RWS makes one - the current model is shown above. There are several older RWS/Diana C-mounts available - they appear on eBay from time to time. Several other companies make something like this as well. If you go this route, be very careful that the 'stop pins' in the C-mount fully engages the 'stop holes' in the rifle mounting rail. I wrote a bit about this particular headache here

http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=306830

My comments notwithstanding, this is a good way to mount a scope. The only disadvantage is that some scopes (e.g. 3-9 Burris Compact) won't fit because the scope mounting space between the bells is too small (and the distance between the rings is fixed). If you already have a scope on hand, this could be a problem.

3) You can add a UTG / Leapers rail which also mounts on top of the rifle rail. It looks something like this:

On top of this you will have to add suitable rings to match your scope. Note that this rail does not depend on the 'stop holes' in the rifle rail. Rather, it has a lip on the front which extends over the front of the rifle rail.

If you go with option 2) or 3) above, you may (or may not) have to get a C-mount or rail with some degree of barrel droop compensation built in. These C-mounts and rails come both ways.

Or there any other options that I've missed?

 

I use one of the utg c-mounts, their sweet!!!!

The one I have has 17.1moa of slope to aid in barrel droup. The mount is extremely sollid and comes with heavy duty lock down screws.

I need to get another one to keep around to put on my different airguns and 22's for testing pellets and ammo. I shoot alot with iron sights.

 

this

http://www.pyramydair.com/s/a/B_Square_17021_11mm_to_Weaver_Adapter_Adjustable/601

 

this [link to B-Square 11mm - to - Weaver adapter]

Ummmm, no. If you're going the way of converting to Weaver rings, use the UTG / Leapers adapter mentioned a couple of posts above. The RWS 48 / 52 tends to recoil mightily. The UTG / Leapers adapter was specifically designed to deal with this problem. The whole reason-for-being for the UTG / Leapers design was to deal with scope-moving recoil in Diana air guns.

The B-Square adapter does not deal with the problem. While you might be able to modify it, why bother? It costs more and does less.

 

It has a stop pin, it adjusts for angle. What else is needed?

How, exactly, does it not deal with the problem?

Works fine an a TX200.

 

Thanks guys. Not what I am looking for however. I want to remove the factory base (as shown above) and have a Weaver base that screws on, or integral base/ring mount, or something like a Leupold dovetail design. I might just get something custom made.

 

I've never seen that kind of base for a Diana. The 2 "screws" which hold the rail to the rifle may not be screws at all but really more like rivets. The metal in this area of the rifle very thin so it's unclear to me how a conventional screw could hold. As another user pointed out, be very careful in trying to remove them or the rail.

Personally, I would recommend you get the Leapers / UTG base and clamp it to the existing rail. You can add whatever Weaver rings suit your purpose. The Leapers / UTG rail comes in two model - with or without barrel droop compensation. Once installed, it's very solid.

 

Be REAL careful taking it apart.
Hope that works out for you.

 

By golly,Dave, we can sure agree on that!

 

"That" being... you shouldn't remove the scope base from the rifle. Actually, we probably agree on most of this.

If a user plans to use a "C-mount", you might as well go with the one from RWS. It's not perfect, but it is made for the rifle and works okay. It works even better if you get rid of the 'spring pins' and replace them with slightly modified set screws. The RWS "C-mount" is reasonably priced.

B-Square also makes a C-mount. I've looked at it and it is a quality product like most B-Square items. But, I can't see any advantage over the RWS model. As I recall, it also uses split pins to prevent movement. It's priced about the same as the RWS model. It could probably be modified with set screws to work better.

FWIW, there were earlier versions of the RWS C-mount that used set screws for stops. I guess some accountant figured they could save $.0035 per mount by using split pins over set screws.

---

As for convert-to-Weaver rails, the UTG / Leapers rail has one big advantage : the lip that fits over the front of the rifle rail. This is a much better way to stop fore-aft movement. The blogger [B.B.Pelletier] over at Pyramyd Air worked with the Leapers folks in the design of this rail and the result was worth the effort.

For better or worse, Diana springers recoil. The 1000 fps models are bad. The "magnum" 1200 fps models are a real pain-in-the-scope.

The B-Square Weaver adapter lacks this positive stop feature. Plus, it's more money. That's two strikes down.

The B-Square rail does adjust for different barrel droops. However, unless you are planning to move the rail from one air rifle to another, you probably know whether you need droop compensation or not. Other things being equal, a non-adjustable mount should be more rigid.

Finally, you might remember that the side clamp (with four big screws!) is not deemed adequate to hold the rail rigidly to the rifle against fore-and-aft recoil movement. This applies to both the B-Square and the UTG/Leapers models. Why would you expect this clamp to hold rigidly for angular movement?

Expect the worst and you probably won't be surprised.

 

B-square has a pin to go into a hole in the rail or at the front end. It doesn't move.
I'm not married to them , especially since they moved production to China after Bechtel sold the company.
It was nice having them here in Fort Worth.

Personally I have no use for ultra power springers, as I am primarily a target shooter with airguns. Sold the Tarantula when I noticed it never left the safe.

I am frustrated that market forces have resulted in the discontinuation of many guns of more useful power for generalized applications like the RWS 26/28 and even the RWS 46, which has pretty sweet firing behavior compared to the supermagnums.

Supermagnums and magnums have many of the disadvantages of firearms; primarily of difficulty containing a pellet in the back yard. I know that's not what they're made for, but it's what a huge percentage of first time buyers buy them for when a 700-800fps model
(.177/8gr) would be more suitable, and MUCH more pleasant to shoot.

Now, if I can safely climb down from this soap box...