RWS M-34 Meisterschutze Pro Combo: Part 4 - The traveling scope mount
The RWS Lock Down Mount 1" is a C-style scope mount specifically designed for RWS airguns. It is exactly the same length as the mounting rail on RWS air rifles. This is really handy for two reasons: first, it's easy to align the mount during installation. Second, it's easy to check and see if it is moving about (mostly moving to the rear). After a few hundred shots, I noticed by mount was on the move (like the gnome in the travel ads).
This is not a laughing matter. Not only does the accuracy go all to hell, but the two 'spring pins' which were supposed to keep the mount from moving were now gouging your scope mounting rail. What is wrong with this picture?
What's wrong was an okay idea marred by poor execution. The two spring pins supplied with my scope mount were 1/4" and 3/8" long - they appeared to be one spring pin someone had cut in half. They were so loose in the holes that I could easily move them with my fingers. Even worse, I could drag the shorter pin out of the hole with only finger pressure.
Some engineer may correct me, but this seems to be a very questionable application for a spring pin anyhow. Spring pins normally secure two sliding parts by gripping or wedging with their whole body - not gripping with an unsupported tip end. If you look at the design of a spring pin...
![Image]()
you will notice the small chamfer or taper at each end. This aids in starting the pin into a hole. But, this is exactly what you don't want for the RWS M-34 scope mount application - it is guaranteed to ride up and out of the socket in the rail. What were they thinking? What were they smoking?
Here are two solutions to the problem. In my view, the second (set screw) solution is better, but it is slightly more work...
Adequate Solution: Go to your friendly hardware store / auto parts shop / tool & die supply and buy 2 new spring pins. Be sure they are at least 1" long and are a tight fit in the hole. Take the scope mount along to be sure of the fit. "Tight fit" means you need a small hammer and a brass punch or drift to move the spring pin in the hole. A spring pin that is looser than this or moves freely in the hole is a waste of time - particularly for this application.
Install the new spring pins from the bottom of the mount. When they are inserted ~1/2" or so, carefully grind or file off the chamfer from the exposed (lower) end of the spring pins. The lower end of the spring pins should be perfectly flat and square. Continue installing the pins (tapping them into the holes) until only 1/16" is exposed.
Next, install the scope mount (without the scope) on the rifle and tighten the mounting plate screws securely. Using your brass drift or punch, gently tap the spring pins from above until they "bottom" in the sockets in the mounting rail. Your scope mount should now be secure.
Best solution: After examining RWS' interesting design, I decided that spring pins were not the way to fly. I also noticed that a #10-24 tap was just the right size to tap the holes in the scope mount. You know where this is going...
Simply tap both holes to #10-24. The aluminum scope mount tapped easily. If you have a drill press to align the tap handle prior to tapping, so much the better.
Buy a couple of #10-24 x 1" Allen-head socket set screws which look something like this:
![Image]()
Caution: most socket set screws have a semi-pointed or "cup" end, designed to dig into the metal at their business end. Grind or file this end off flat and square, since all the force will be against the side of the set screw. No gouging or digging is required or desired.
Installation is the same as above, except that, after installing the scope mount, you simply tighten the two set screws from above with an Allen wrench. Tighten gently - remember the force is on the side of the set screw tips - not downward.
Another thousand or so rounds down the tube and my scope mount hasn't moved!
Stay tuned for the next exciting installment: Diana meets Jenny Craig.
The RWS Lock Down Mount 1" is a C-style scope mount specifically designed for RWS airguns. It is exactly the same length as the mounting rail on RWS air rifles. This is really handy for two reasons: first, it's easy to align the mount during installation. Second, it's easy to check and see if it is moving about (mostly moving to the rear). After a few hundred shots, I noticed by mount was on the move (like the gnome in the travel ads).
This is not a laughing matter. Not only does the accuracy go all to hell, but the two 'spring pins' which were supposed to keep the mount from moving were now gouging your scope mounting rail. What is wrong with this picture?
What's wrong was an okay idea marred by poor execution. The two spring pins supplied with my scope mount were 1/4" and 3/8" long - they appeared to be one spring pin someone had cut in half. They were so loose in the holes that I could easily move them with my fingers. Even worse, I could drag the shorter pin out of the hole with only finger pressure.
Some engineer may correct me, but this seems to be a very questionable application for a spring pin anyhow. Spring pins normally secure two sliding parts by gripping or wedging with their whole body - not gripping with an unsupported tip end. If you look at the design of a spring pin...
you will notice the small chamfer or taper at each end. This aids in starting the pin into a hole. But, this is exactly what you don't want for the RWS M-34 scope mount application - it is guaranteed to ride up and out of the socket in the rail. What were they thinking? What were they smoking?
Here are two solutions to the problem. In my view, the second (set screw) solution is better, but it is slightly more work...
Adequate Solution: Go to your friendly hardware store / auto parts shop / tool & die supply and buy 2 new spring pins. Be sure they are at least 1" long and are a tight fit in the hole. Take the scope mount along to be sure of the fit. "Tight fit" means you need a small hammer and a brass punch or drift to move the spring pin in the hole. A spring pin that is looser than this or moves freely in the hole is a waste of time - particularly for this application.
Install the new spring pins from the bottom of the mount. When they are inserted ~1/2" or so, carefully grind or file off the chamfer from the exposed (lower) end of the spring pins. The lower end of the spring pins should be perfectly flat and square. Continue installing the pins (tapping them into the holes) until only 1/16" is exposed.
Next, install the scope mount (without the scope) on the rifle and tighten the mounting plate screws securely. Using your brass drift or punch, gently tap the spring pins from above until they "bottom" in the sockets in the mounting rail. Your scope mount should now be secure.
Best solution: After examining RWS' interesting design, I decided that spring pins were not the way to fly. I also noticed that a #10-24 tap was just the right size to tap the holes in the scope mount. You know where this is going...
Simply tap both holes to #10-24. The aluminum scope mount tapped easily. If you have a drill press to align the tap handle prior to tapping, so much the better.
Buy a couple of #10-24 x 1" Allen-head socket set screws which look something like this:
Caution: most socket set screws have a semi-pointed or "cup" end, designed to dig into the metal at their business end. Grind or file this end off flat and square, since all the force will be against the side of the set screw. No gouging or digging is required or desired.
Installation is the same as above, except that, after installing the scope mount, you simply tighten the two set screws from above with an Allen wrench. Tighten gently - remember the force is on the side of the set screw tips - not downward.
Another thousand or so rounds down the tube and my scope mount hasn't moved!
Stay tuned for the next exciting installment: Diana meets Jenny Craig.
