There seems to be a few different schools of thought about most effective bedding points. Leaving out the question of barrel float/pressure point/bedding first 1-2" of barrel, is there value in leaving the rear of the action free-floating after pillar bedding or fully bedding the front of the action?
My inclination is to bed front and rear, with or without pillar, depending on stock, and then decide whether the barrel needs "short-bed"/freefloat vs contact point somewhere along the length (I like the short-bed/float but I'm open to re-thinking that).
I have a Walnut sporter with a ton of slop in the inletting so that there's a lot of play sided to side and front to back. I want to bed it so that it's locked in.
Thoughts?

Get some aluminum hvac tape. Cut into small strips 1/4 inch x3 inch and put on side of the receiver under the stock line And shorter pieces on the back of the receiver.Add a layer at a time until the action sticks in stock without using the TD screw. You may have to add more layers to the back than the sides. Make sure the TD screw is not too long and bottoming out and pushing the action up out of the stock.. V Q makes a short screw, or you can shorten yours. 10”inch pounds on the TD screw . Also I add oversize pins to hold the trigger group firmly in the receiver.

Then get a piece of bicycle tire inner tube a strip 3/4 inch wide and 4 inches lonh , slide under barrer at the end of the forstock and go to the range , sliding it back until you hit the sweet spot. Go home cut the rubber and glue it in .

This should “ accurize” your sporter.

 

Make sure the TD screw is not too long and bottoming out and pushing the action up out of the stock.. V Q makes a short screw, or you can shorten yours. 10’ pounds on the TD screw.

I often see this mentioned and the availability of the shorter screw. Is this a regular issue with the stock screw? If so it seems that Ruger would have corrected for this many years ago. Is this mostly an issue with wood stocks that are older or have an history of over tightening?

And, I just range tested my zero time CPC'ed LVT mounted to a new DSP, no bedding for trial range time. I set the TD screw to 15ip and after 50 rounds of continual degrading accuracy and disappointment, I found the TD screw to have worked totally loose. I figure that at least some trial tape bedding would reduce the movement and the loosening of the TD screw?

Oops, sorry to have jumped on someone else's thread, it seemed be in the same realm.

 

10’ lbs as suggested is 120 inchpounds which is at least 4 times the maximum i would use.

25 inchpounds max if you want to be safe. 30 if you like living on the edge

 

Corrected, I reversed Spinal Tapped .

 

I bedded the receiver area with gasket maker. This was after I spent a LOT of time bedding the barrel area with JBWeld which involved leaving room for gasket maker pressure pads.

No idea if it helped anything or not.

One thing I DO recommend is bedding the trigger group area with JBWeld or whatever. I really locks everything together quite rigidly, with or without the receiver bedding.

You can kinda see what I am talking about here: https://www.rimfirecentral.com/thre...al.com/threads/miscellaneous-titan-mods.1216337/?post_id=12211629#post-12211629