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Breakthrough Suppressor Cleaner Review

2 reading
3.5K views 49 replies 27 participants last post by  LeadStacker  
#1 ·
I despise cleaning rimfire suppressors. I shoot a lot of suppressed 22 and go way too many rounds between cleanings.

I have tried cleaning the baffles in ultrasonic cleaners using a solution designed for gun parts for multiple cycles. I've had very limited success with this method, I still had to resort to dental picks and elbow grease to get the baffles clean.

On the advice of the guys who clean the rental guns and suppressors at my LGS, I decided to buy and try a bottle of Breakthrough Suppressor Cleaner. What sold me on it is the fact that it is supposed to be a soak and forget cleaning solution. I really liked the easy aspect of this cleaning method. I also liked the fact that the solution is reusable so you don't have to keep buying it over and over.

Image


So with great hope, I decided to document my first use.

I started with a very dirty Q el Camino suppressor. It has a PVD titanium outer sleeve and end cap with stainless steel baffles. The suppressor probably had at least 1k rounds, and maybe more since its last cleaning. The spec sheet lists the weight at 4.3 oz. I weighed the suppressor prior to cleaning and it weighed 5.3 oz so there was a lot of built up carbon and lead. The design of the suppressor keeps the inside of the titanium sleeve pretty clean and the end cap only had minimal residue. The buildup was mainly on the baffles.

Here are the before pictures.

Image


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I didn't buy the whole "kit", so I started by pouring enough of the cleaner into a new glass jar to submerge the baffles completely. I put the baffles in the solution and waited for the magic to happen.

After ½ hour I checked on the progress. The solution had a slight yellow tinge and had several small streams of bubbles coming from the insides of the baffles. Here is the ½ hour picture.

Image


After 1 hour of soaking, the bubbles had slowed a little compared to ½ hour and the solution had turned a little deeper yellow especially on the bottom. Here is the 1 hour picture.

Image


More time in the jar. At 2 hours, the solution was a deeper yellow and turning a little bit opaque. There were still bubbles slowly coming from the baffles. Here is the 2 hour picture.

Image


I checked progress at 4 hours. The solution was very opaque, dark yellow and turning black towards the bottom of the jar. It was still bubbling, but very little. There is also debris on the bottom and at this point I'm thinking that it is really starting to work. Unfortunately, I forgot to take a picture at this stage.

At 5 hours, the solution is very cloudy, still bubbling a little and more debris on the bottom of the jar. I forgot a picture at this stage as well. Since it appeared to be still working, I left the baffles in the solution overnight.

At 15 hours of soak time, the solution was a golden color at the top going to black at the bottom. It was still bubbling and there was a lot of black debris on the bottom of the jar. Here is a picture at 15 hours.

Image


At 17 hours, conditions were the same as 15 hours, no picture.

At 19 hours, it was the same, but the bubbles stopped. So in the interest of experimentation, I swirled and shook the jar to agitate it. The solution mixed and turned black. Here is a picture after agitation.

Image


I checked again at 22 hours. The fluid was still black. There had been no settling and there were no bubbles.

At 28 hours, still no settling, the solution is black and there were no bubbles. I made the decision to pull the baffles out and photograph and weigh the suppressor again. The suppressor weighed 4.9 oz, so the solution had removed 4/10 of an ounce of the build up. Here are pictures of the baffles right after they came out of the solution.

Image


Image


I think the solution did a pretty good job on one side of the baffles that didn't really have much deposits. The other side where all accumulation was still had a good bit of residue. I ended up breaking out the dental picks. I noticed that the solution had not permeated all the way to the metal. The carbon/lead mixture was dry under the surface requiring the same amount of effort to remove as not using the solution. Maybe due to how dirty the baffles were, I should have left it in the solution longer. It may have helped.

After cleaning with the picks, the suppressor weighed 4.5 oz. So not perfectly clean, but pretty close. I probably should have put the baffles back in the solution at this point to get the rest of the residue, but I was getting ready to go shoot for the weekend so I didnt. I don't strive for perfection when cleaning perfection because I will just get it filthy again on the next range session.

So, here is my opinion to go with the observations. Don't let your suppressors get that dirty. I think the solution would do a good job with more frequent soakings. It didn't really penetrate the built up gunk very well. Where there were just small deposits or a thin coating of residue everything just wiped off as I was drying the baffles with a paper towel. It was my fault for waiting so long to clean it, but the solution did remove ½ by weight of the carbon/lead buildup I got out of the suppressor. Overall, I don't think this is a "Miracle" product, but I think it does what it is supposed to do. It is kind of expensive but it is reusable.

Here is what I will do next time.

Soak it after a few hundred rounds so there isn't as much buildup. I think this will make the biggest difference. I will probably leave it in the solution for a couple of days. If this doesn't work, I may use it as the cleaning solution in my ultrasonic cleaner. I think the ultrasonic aspect may help the solution penetrate better leading to a better dissolution of the lead and carbon.

Hope this helps anyone on the fence about purchasing this product. I bought the Breakthrough Suppressor Cleaner with my own money and used it on my own suppressor. This review was not sponsored in any way, (send me a PM if you would like to make a large cash donation though) and it is just my observations and opinions. Your mileage may vary. No animals were harmed in either the cleaning, photography or review of this product.
 
#3 ·
This is a screenshot from Breakthrough's website.

Image


I do have an all aluminum rimfire suppressor as well. I bought them both from my LGS which has very knowledgeable salespeople and sell a lot of suppressors. They told me not to use an ultrasonic cleaner on aluminum or titanium. I think they said it can make it become brittle over time.
 
#4 ·
I've had similar results with Breakthrough. I did order the kit. The long 24 hour soak seems to be needed. I did do a brushing after 24 hours and then a resoak. In the end some scraping/brushing was required to get the baffles impressively clean. After trying several different methods/product over the years for cleaning my aluminum baffles (no ultrasonic, no DIP) I was so excited about Breakthrough that I ordered a gallon jug off Amazon (I've been discarding the used black fluid) and told a friend. About a week later I received a big thank you from that friend who used it on his Ruger 22 suppressor (not sure of the construction).

Breakthrough gets my recommendation and repeat business.
 
#5 ·
So, here is my opinion to go with the observations. Don't let your suppressors get that dirty. I think the solution would do a good job with more frequent soakings. It didn't really penetrate the built up gunk very well. Where there were just small deposits or a thin coating of residue everything just wiped off as I was drying the baffles with a paper towel. It was my fault for waiting so long to clean it, but the solution did remove ½ by weight of the carbon/lead buildup I got out of the suppressor. Overall, I don't think this is a "Miracle" product, but I think it does what it is supposed to do. It is kind of expensive but it is reusable.
I have a Sparrow, Mask HD and Switchback. Combined they have over 30,000 rounds through them and besides normal finish wear on the outsides they appear new internally. I clean them every time I shoot them. It takes 15 minutes in the ultrasonic and I use a mix of simple green and water.
 
#6 ·
Excellent review. I ordered the kit and in hindsight, just buying the solution and using a mason jar to soak would be better. 24-hour soak and then pick off remaining pieces and if really dirty clean again. Clean after 500-600 rounds or a range session. I can't imagine a better way to clean rimfire suppressors unless someone does it for you. This is an excellent product.
 
#8 ·
Suppressed rimfire is great when you can shoot by yourself, or everyone else is shooting suppressed also.

Rimfire cans gets really dirty really quickly if you don't stay on top of cleaning them. I think they get dirtier than the guns themselves.

It builds up into almost concrete like mixture that can be really hard to get clean. (If you don't clean it often enough)
 
#10 ·
I despise cleaning rimfire suppressors. I shoot a lot of suppressed 22 and go way too many rounds between cleanings.

I have tried cleaning the baffles in ultrasonic cleaners using a solution designed for gun parts for multiple cycles. I've had very limited success with this method, I still had to resort to dental picks and elbow grease to get the baffles clean.

On the advice of the guys who clean the rental guns and suppressors at my LGS, I decided to buy and try a bottle of Breakthrough Suppressor Cleaner. What sold me on it is the fact that it is supposed to be a soak and forget cleaning solution. I really liked the easy aspect of this cleaning method. I also liked the fact that the solution is reusable so you don't have to keep buying it over and over.

View attachment 603798

So with great hope, I decided to document my first use.

I started with a very dirty Q el Camino suppressor. It has a PVD titanium outer sleeve and end cap with stainless steel baffles. The suppressor probably had at least 1k rounds, and maybe more since its last cleaning. The spec sheet lists the weight at 4.3 oz. I weighed the suppressor prior to cleaning and it weighed 5.3 oz so there was a lot of built up carbon and lead. The design of the suppressor keeps the inside of the titanium sleeve pretty clean and the end cap only had minimal residue. The buildup was mainly on the baffles.

Here are the before pictures.

View attachment 603800

View attachment 603799

I didn't buy the whole "kit", so I started by pouring enough of the cleaner into a new glass jar to submerge the baffles completely. I put the baffles in the solution and waited for the magic to happen.

After ½ hour I checked on the progress. The solution had a slight yellow tinge and had several small streams of bubbles coming from the insides of the baffles. Here is the ½ hour picture.

View attachment 603801

After 1 hour of soaking, the bubbles had slowed a little compared to ½ hour and the solution had turned a little deeper yellow especially on the bottom. Here is the 1 hour picture.

View attachment 603802

More time in the jar. At 2 hours, the solution was a deeper yellow and turning a little bit opaque. There were still bubbles slowly coming from the baffles. Here is the 2 hour picture.

View attachment 603803

I checked progress at 4 hours. The solution was very opaque, dark yellow and turning black towards the bottom of the jar. It was still bubbling, but very little. There is also debris on the bottom and at this point I'm thinking that it is really starting to work. Unfortunately, I forgot to take a picture at this stage.

At 5 hours, the solution is very cloudy, still bubbling a little and more debris on the bottom of the jar. I forgot a picture at this stage as well. Since it appeared to be still working, I left the baffles in the solution overnight.

At 15 hours of soak time, the solution was a golden color at the top going to black at the bottom. It was still bubbling and there was a lot of black debris on the bottom of the jar. Here is a picture at 15 hours.

View attachment 603808

At 17 hours, conditions were the same as 15 hours, no picture.

At 19 hours, it was the same, but the bubbles stopped. So in the interest of experimentation, I swirled and shook the jar to agitate it. The solution mixed and turned black. Here is a picture after agitation.

View attachment 603816

I checked again at 22 hours. The fluid was still black. There had been no settling and there were no bubbles.

At 28 hours, still no settling, the solution is black and there were no bubbles. I made the decision to pull the baffles out and photograph and weigh the suppressor again. The suppressor weighed 4.9 oz, so the solution had removed 4/10 of an ounce of the build up. Here are pictures of the baffles right after they came out of the solution.

View attachment 603817

View attachment 603818

I think the solution did a pretty good job on one side of the baffles that didn't really have much deposits. The other side where all accumulation was still had a good bit of residue. I ended up breaking out the dental picks. I noticed that the solution had not permeated all the way to the metal. The carbon/lead mixture was dry under the surface requiring the same amount of effort to remove as not using the solution. Maybe due to how dirty the baffles were, I should have left it in the solution longer. It may have helped.

After cleaning with the picks, the suppressor weighed 4.5 oz. So not perfectly clean, but pretty close. I probably should have put the baffles back in the solution at this point to get the rest of the residue, but I was getting ready to go shoot for the weekend so I didnt. I don't strive for perfection when cleaning perfection because I will just get it filthy again on the next range session.

So, here is my opinion to go with the observations. Don't let your suppressors get that dirty. I think the solution would do a good job with more frequent soakings. It didn't really penetrate the built up gunk very well. Where there were just small deposits or a thin coating of residue everything just wiped off as I was drying the baffles with a paper towel. It was my fault for waiting so long to clean it, but the solution did remove ½ by weight of the carbon/lead buildup I got out of the suppressor. Overall, I don't think this is a "Miracle" product, but I think it does what it is supposed to do. It is kind of expensive but it is reusable.

Here is what I will do next time.

Soak it after a few hundred rounds so there isn't as much buildup. I think this will make the biggest difference. I will probably leave it in the solution for a couple of days. If this doesn't work, I may use it as the cleaning solution in my ultrasonic cleaner. I think the ultrasonic aspect may help the solution penetrate better leading to a better dissolution of the lead and carbon.

Hope this helps anyone on the fence about purchasing this product. I bought the Breakthrough Suppressor Cleaner with my own money and used it on my own suppressor. This review was not sponsored in any way, (send me a PM if you would like to make a large cash donation though) and it is just my observations and opinions. Your mileage may vary. No animals were harmed in either the cleaning, photography or review of this product.
I use breakthrough in spray bottle. Soak everything with a silicone stopper in the outlet hole. The reason is to use less expensive fluid. Then rinse hard with hose (use tapered rubber nozzle on end of hose).

After it’s all dry I coat with Eezox which adsorbs to the metal and resists carbon and crud. You can substitute a good ceramic coating for the Eezox, or ballistol. Don’t let whatever you coat it with pool up. Use light coat and then try to remove most of it after 20 min. If you let it pool you’ll have a bit of a waxy buildup that can collect stuff. You want a thin coat like waxing a car.

Really fast and simple and relatively low cost. I suggest if you do total immersion method then reuse the fluid up to 3 times to save cost. If you take suppressor apart I would spray it down then put in ziploc bag instead of total immersion (due to cost).
 
#17 ·
How do you dispose of the solution? Is this dissolving the lead? If so, need to dispose of it appropriately. I have yet to clean my Mask, but when I do, I will use a tumbler, SS pins, water and some soap. Doesn't need to be factory clean.
lLeadstacker, by any chance do they list active ingredients on the bottle? Any special disposal instructions for used solution?
I looked on the bottle and there are no ingredients listed on it, or their website.

There are no instructions for disposal of the used product on the bottle. The website says:

8. Dispose of used cleaning fluid according to local guidelines.

So, I don't know what I will do with it at the moment. It is reusable, so I have a little time to figure it out.

Since I know they use it at my LGS/range I will ask what they do with theirs. I'm sure they have a protocol for it. If it isn't something I can't do safely and environmentally friendly, I will take it out there and have them get rid of it for me.

That's one of many benefits of spending thousands and thousands of $ there over the past 20 years. A half a pint every few months won't be a big deal.

Once I find out, I will post the answer here.
 
#18 ·
All it is is a paraffinic hydrocarbon also generally referred to as a fuel additive In your fuel oils like diesel fuel. You know that pesky stuff that’s in diesel that makes it clog up filters in the winter.
paraffin and butane or paraffin and propane mixed together and injected into the fuel when being loaded.

I can almost with certainty say you way over paid for what you bought.

I’ll repeat what I’ve said many many times , get you a good automotive carbon cleaner as essentially that’s what “Breakthrough“ is is just mainly a carbon cleaner.



Paraffinic hydrocarbons, also known as alkanes, are a type of saturated hydrocarbon with the general formula CnH2n+2. They consist of carbon and hydrogen atoms connected by single bonds, making them relatively unreactive.Paraffinic hydrocarbons are a major component of petroleum and natural gas.

The hydrogen part of the cleaner is active ingredient same active ingredient to vinegar hydrogen peroxide mix as a cleaner So there is a reaction between the hydrogen and lead and the paraffin acts as a carbon solvent.


after you have soaked the suppressor parts in the solution the solution will be a mix of leaoxide and other petroleum carcinogens that’s will soak through your skin and is a hazardous material that’s also a poison so don’t expose your skin to the used liquid.

do use with caution.

msds

used gloves when handling used breakthrough and I’m certain you can find a cheaper option.
 
#22 ·
I don't know what the chemicals are, and I'm sure they won't tell us. Otherwise, they wouldn't be getting $100 a gallon.

Here is what they have to say on their website.

The Breakthrough Clean Technologies® Suppressor Cleaner is a water-based, ammonia-free, cleaner that removes heavy carbon and lead deposits. Utilizing a proprietary blend of chemical surfactants and detergents, Suppressor Cleaner effectively works to neutralize all corrosive residues preventing damaging rust and corrosion without etching or harming your suppressor. With no noxious fumes or hazardous chemicals, Suppressor Cleaner is a safe and effective choice when it comes to removing stubborn carbon & lead build-up in your suppressor.

CORROSION PREVENTION: Petroleum & ammonia-free with short term rust & corrosion prevention

USER-SAFE: Suppressor safe is user-safe
 
#23 ·
Well, I did pay Amazon $90, but I had a gift card so it's LIKE it was only $65. The funny part is my wife had just sent an Amazon package to our daughter at college before I ordered. I didn't realize she had changed the default delivery address. SO two days later our daughter called and was mad that she opened the package in the dorm in front of her friends and out comes a gallon of suppressor cleaner.
 
#28 ·
I imagine the gallon I bought will last a couple years. This is the first store bought method to safely clean aluminum baffles I've come across that has worked well for me. Unless there is something better available when I run out, I'll buy another gallon.

As for the dirty fluid being hazardous, ANY cleaning solution that actually works is going to have lead in it and be hazardous.
 
#29 ·
You all need to check out this website and products. WWW.Slip2000.com I got it to give it a try to remove the plastic wad that builds up in my shotgun chokes. This stuff works fast, cleans excellent, and you can handle with bare hands, It's reuseable, and no bio hazards. I just got a suppressor for my .22 and HMR and I can't wait to see how it works with and without a sonic cleaner. They do have an additional chemical for suppressors, but the same stuff I'm using for my chokes says it will remove the carbon as well. Only time will tell once I need to clean my suppressor. In the mean time, I got a code for 20% off if you all want to use it. FIRINGPIN. Shoot well and clean just as good.
 
#32 ·
Apparently I'm one of those crazy individuals who cleans their rimfire suppressor often so I don't have to play chemist; I'll let it go just a 'couple hundred rounds before cleaning, which at that rate makes it very easy to disassemble and clean without the use of harsh chemicals or having to break out the scrapers.

I've been on Disability since age 56, am retired early, and don't work. As such I don't see the big deal about spending a whole 15 minutes at most out of my life to disassemble, clean, and reassemble my rimfire suppressor. I don't see the point in letting my MASK get so clogged with lead and burnt/unburnt powder residue that it's difficult to disassemble (e.g., like a clamshell type suppressor such as the Sparrow), and the same goes for the cleaning of my rimfire firearms, which get cleaned after each use. With less work required to remove lead particles there's less possibility of damaging the surrounding areas during cleaning.

We've all seen the images of the Glock pistols with a kazillion rounds through them without cleaning, along with rimfire firearms whose actions were literally filled with lead particles, yet both still functioned. Some feel that doing so has earned them some kind of badge of honor?

Meh. Sure, we could all wear the same pair of underwear for six months straight without removing them until they formed into a solid crust, but why??????

(LOL)
 
#33 ·
I've been on Disability since age 56, am retired early, and don't work. As such I don't see the big deal about spending a whole 15 minutes at most out of my life to disassemble, clean, and reassemble my rimfire suppressor.

This is the key.

Between 12 hours spent driving, working and driving home, then working out, family obligations, lawn and house maintenance I'm doing well just to make it to the range.

When I do, by the time I get home, I have time to put all the gear away, eat and shower so I can get some sleep before the alarm goes off to do it all again.

Its also a lot easier when you only take a gun or two to the range. When I go, it's 4 or 5 generally so it isn't 15 or 20 minutes. It is an hour and a half.

A firearm will run a long time just keeping it lubed, believe me I know. Rimfire suppressors can go a couple thousand rounds between cleanings.

I keep my defensive purposes firearms spotlessly clean. Range guns get cleaned when they need it, or prior to an event.

I wish I had the time to clean and lube everything before I put it away and honestly, I probably do. But the other things are more important to me.

Oh well, another decade or so and I will retire and have a lot more time hopefully.
 
#37 ·
Special order Hardware store in quart metal cans.

it like other solvents the evaporate easily are getting harder to find on the shelf these days.

also at Uline and Amazon
I looked it up on Amazon and was mildly surprised that it is in fact readily available in a variety of sizes.

Considering that hexane is highly flammable, explosive even, and can cause a variety of health issues, I'm surprised to find it so easily obtainable. Maybe I shouldn't have been; gasolene is widely available, of course.

No offense, but I do hope you're taking proper precautions. The industry I work around (oilseed crushers) uses hexane as a solvent to remove the oil from the seed stock, and they're darn careful with it, lest it kaboom and propel them into geosynchronous orbit.
 
#36 ·
You might try these products! I swear by the Plastic Choke cleaner, they say it will work on Carbon built up, but the Carbon Killer may work faster. I've not shot my suppressor enough to clean yet. Only popped off three rounds to just see how quiet it was. NICE.. The dead Air MASK!

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