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Winchester Model 77 wont fire

10K views 27 replies 8 participants last post by  Black-Hat  
#1 · (Edited)
I recently acquired a model 77 "clip design". Bluing is great and stock is in really nice shape for its age. Got it for $150. Seemed like a fair deal. Well first off, when I pull the bolt open, and if the mag is inserted, the bolt will hold open. I thought these models weren't supposed to do that. Hence why they had a bolt retaining pin just forward of the ejection port. It does this still even if I remove that retaining pin. So I know that's not interfering with it.

Anyway, when the clip is full, the bolt doesn't hang up on the clip. But it was jamming upon feeding. So I played with the feed-lips on the mag, and got it working by hand cycling without issue. Feeds fine now. But then I noticed wouldn't eject an empty every time. Now I'm thinking this is primarily cause I'm hand cycling.

But when I went to fire it, "CLICK". Nothing happened. So I took it apart completely. I really like the simplicity of this rifle. I looked up a diagram on Numrich, and I noticed that the timing rod was missing the spring, collar and retainer clip. Plus, when I turned the receiver upside down, it looked like a little piece of metal came out, and appears it came off the end of the timing rod. My guess is it was getting chewed up in the sear spring. Its just a guess. I don't know these rifles very well.

So I ordered those parts, including another timing rod from Numrich in case my original is FUBAR'd. My question is, what does the timing rod do exactly? And without the spring/collar/retainer clip, what effect would it have on the operation? I'm hoping it has everything to do with it not firing cause I don't want to keep sinking money into this. I can see the firing pin striking through the face of the bolt. So the striker is hitting the firing pin. But its like the entire bolt isn't coming all the way forward to the chamber.

Thoughts?

Just to illustrate what I'm talking about, this picture shows the items missing from the timing rod

timing rod spring
timing rod collar
timing rod collar retainer

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#2 ·
I'm not any kinda expert but it appears that since this is a striker fired action the timing assembly simply poushes the bolt completely forward after the striker is caught by the sear. That would seem to me to indicate that firing problems would be the case if the timing system were not functioning..
 
#3 ·
The timing rod keeps the gun from firing out of battery. It can be assembled incorrectly and won't work, a dangerous situation. Also, the entire rear of the trigger assembly can be installed incorrectly, notably the plunger, and you will have all manner of problems. Take a look through the links below, in there somewhere is a picture of how the critical parts must be installed. Do not shoot this gun until you get these issues sorted out and squared away. You will continue to love the rifle, but first do these checks.

http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2785219#post2785219
 
#5 ·
Thank you for the wonderful info 22AGS. I'll investigate the trigger assembly. I did remove it, but the issue was like this before I took any of it apart. So I'm confident I didn't cause any of this, but that doesn't say the previous owner might of.

The other issue is I'm definitely missing parts for the timing rod. So when my Numrich order arrives, I'll re-assemble per the diagram below. And then I'll make sure the trigger assembly is done right.

I'll keep you posted.

Thanks
 
#7 ·
Its definitely an original. Has the Winchester floorplate on it, body of the mag looks in original condition to match the rifle. Like I said, I did have to tweak the feed lips to get it to feed reliably. But as for the bolt catching on the rear of an empty mag, this was happening before I even started monkeying with any of it.
 
#8 ·
hmmm wonder if the follower is the culprit? It's the only moving part beside the spring, and the only one that isn't touching the inner receiver and bolt at the beginning when all is working. Is the rear edge sharp and catching on the bolt as it comes forward? Wonder if you need to radius that edge a little bit.
 
#9 ·
What I can try is dissasemble the mag, take out the follower, reinsert, and cycle the bolt. It its still getting hung up without the follower inserted, then could be the mag body.

I'm not sure if its a big deal or not. When the bolt is locked back, I'm doing this lightly when charging the bolt. If I "firmly" charge the bolt, and quickly, and let it fly forward it goes into battery like it should, even on a empty clip. Trying to say is that I can get the bolt to cycle, just takes a little extra effort to do so.

But when the clip has at least 1 round, its cycles nice & smooth, I can charge it with minimal effort.

I'll try the follower removal tonight and see what happens.
 
#10 ·
Also make sure that the little mushroom bolt hold-open on the barrel is able to freely release the bolt and slide up and down in its hole. Mine had the flared bottom so ragged and loose that I had to reflare it, it was trying to actually come out of the barrel until I did this. It locks up against the charging bar in a notch. This feature btw didn't come along till about 2/3'rds of the life of the 77.
 
#11 ·
well I'm really at loss here. Got the new timing rod, retainer, spring & clip put in today. Made sure the sear and disconnect were put back in correctly. But still just goes click.

The firing pin is not striking the shells at all. I see how the firing pin is supposed to fit a certain way, and when the striker is hitting the pin, I can see it jump out in front of the bolt face.

Ideas?
 
#12 ·
If the firing pin is just not hitting the rim of the cartridge but you can see it protrude when you push on the rear of the hammer, either the bolt is not closing all the way or the pin is broken and not striking the rim hard enough. Could the extractors be bent and hanging up the bolt from closing? Have you taken the bolt completely apart to the firing pin and spring? Without handling the gun I can't diagnose further. Gonna mull this over some more, don't give up, the problem should be a simple one to solve once we find the source.
 
#14 ·
mod. 77 problems

The 77 is one of the few Win. .22's I haven't owned and this thread is convincing me that I'd rather not. Conversely, I have fired the 77 owned by Monsieur AGS (the "A" is a contradiction in letters-should be "E" for Expert, but "22 EGS" sound like something for breakfast from Denny's) and find his 77 to be both a pleasure to shoot and accurate to boot (Winchester-related poetry!). But seriously, I've disassembled, cleaned, and repaired just about all of them, but the complexity and troublesome nature of this trigger/bolt/firing pin group have me perplexed. And to think I once thought the 63 was a PIA to work on.

Just follow AGS' instructions, doc, and I'm sure he'll have your 77 up and running. -Asa
 
#15 · (Edited)
The 77 is one of the few Win. .22's I haven't owned and this thread is convincing me that I'd rather not. Conversely, I have fired the 77 owned by Monsieur AGS (the "A" is a contradiction in letters-should be "E" for Expert, but "22 EGS" sound like something for breakfast from Denny's) and find his 77 to be both a pleasure to shoot and accurate to boot (Winchester-related poetry!). But seriously, I've disassembled, cleaned, and repaired just about all of them, but the complexity and troublesome nature of this trigger/bolt/firing pin group have me perplexed. And to think I once thought the 63 was a PIA to work on.

Just follow AGS' instructions, doc, and I'm sure he'll have your 77 up and running. -Asa
Now how could a fella NOT enjoy shooting this pretty gun? Asa joined me for a pleasant morning at our hole in the wall last week for some enjoyable tin can plinking. I made sure he shot every 22 I brought out there, and I will tell you since he probably won't that he hits what he shoots at! With a pistol even more so, he had me totally beat with a handgun. I can understand however what he's saying, the 77 is a great rifle and I love the trigger, but you really should have to be mechanically inclined if putting hundreds and thousands of rounds through it is your plan. If you start out with this gun but no mechanical chops, oh you'll have 'em before you're through! And it will reward you for your devotion with accurate and smooth shooting, plus you'll look good doing it! LOL
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#18 ·
22AGS - wow, that's a gorgeous 77!

I saw my first 77 in tne flesh today at a pawn shop, a clip fed gun, about 75% condition, and priced at $280. I passed on the gun, but it got me thinking about looking for one at a better condition/price ratio.

Yours obviously has fabulous wood, how good a shooter is it? Are these guns worth pursuing? How do they compare to a Remington 552?
 
#19 ·
Accurate, nice trigger feel, dependable until dirty (about 350-400 rounds of clean burning ammo), easy to maintain if you're me (I know the disassembly/assembly cold). If you're mechanically inclined they're great guns. It is similar to the 552, but I would honestly say that the Remington has a somewhat simpler battery of arms, the one area on the 77 that gives some guys trouble is the reassembly of the bolt/charging bar connection. The 552 also requires some study and experience to take apart as the barrel has to also come off to access the innards. Both guns are fun to shoot, but I am, due to the presence of that original (if greatly altered) tiger striped walnut, partial to the 77. My clip fed version conversely is about as homely a stock as you'll likely ever see, it's birch with sapwood. Still a sleek and dependable rifle, just not in the same class looks-wise as its tube-fed brother.
 
#20 ·
The wood on that 77........

Well.... It gave me WOOD!!

Try and find that quality of stock in today's market without paying for AAA Select. It just can't be done anymore.
Back in '64 when I worked at the old Winchester plant at age 20 I enjoyed visiting all the departments especially the stock department. They had beautiful select woods put aside for the "customs" or "special presentation" rifles and the average "run of the Mill" rifles often were fitted with high grade stocks by todays standards.

I like pretty wood....

Pete K. :)
 
#21 · (Edited)
Yes yes yes, 22AGS has great wood....:D


My problems were solved Saturday from a shipment from Numrich.

Ended up being a broken firing pin. Well, that and the fact it was missing the ejector "must of broke off it its former life". Ordered the replacement parts from Numrich. So a whole new timing rod, sleeve, spring, clip, firing pin, ejector, and just for good measure, a new extractor spring,

The bolt still holds open on a empty mag. I still need to take the follower out and try it. Its no big deal, I actually like it this way cause when I'm out of ammo it locks the bolt open. The owner I bought it from felt bad for selling me a busted rifle, so he's mailing me a spare oem clip he found for it, free of charge to me. I can't argue with that.

So the parts sat me back $47. So for a total of $197 its a great Winchester now. Has zero feeding or ejection problems, and I love that smooth trigger.

Now my last dilema is to luster up the stock. Its in great shape, no heavy dings or gouges, just dull looking. Was thinking of using TRUOil on it.

Thoughts anyone?
 
#28 · (Edited)
Yes yes yes, 22AGS has great wood....:D

My problems were solved Saturday from a shipment from Numrich.

Ended up being a broken firing pin. Well, that and the fact it was missing the ejector "must of broke off it its former life". Ordered the replacement parts from Numrich. So a whole new timing rod, sleeve, spring, clip, firing pin, ejector, and just for good measure, a new extractor spring,

So the parts sat me back $47. So for a total of $197 its a great Winchester now. Has zero feeding or ejection problems, and I love that smooth trigger.
Sorry to bump an old thread, but I had a very similar issue today that I would love some advice on. This is for a tube fed Model 77.

After firing a shot, the firing pin did not retract. This caused the next bullet to jam because the pin held it at an odd angle. I could see the pin extended past the bolt face, and could not push it back manually. After pulling the bolt back several times and failing to feed a new bullet, I finally cleared the weapon completely and hand fed a bullet into the chamber, then slammed the bolt closed on the bullet and fired it successfully. Next I reloaded the gun and a round fed normally, and when I pulled the trigger it went "click" but no "bang". Repeated this several times and determined that the pin wasn't even denting the primer, and the pin is visually retracted from the bolt face.

Any ideas? My best guess is a broken firing pin, but I'm waiting on a disassembly/reassembly manual to work from. If anyone has one I would greatly appreciate if you posted it.

Edit: Disassembled the gun (not as bad as people made it sound) and confirmed that it is indeed a broken firing pin. The protrusion that contacts the rim was nowhere to be found and was broken off at the base of the firing pin assembly. I can only figure that after the bolt slammed it pushed the loose piece of metal back into the assembly and allowed it to be struck one last time, but that the pin ejected with that shell casing and is somewhere in the yard. *shrug* Looks like they run about 30 to 40 bucks, so not too bad. I'll edit again after the part arrives.
 
#22 ·
Glad you're up and running, and be happy, oem magazines are hard to find and expensive. And are the only ones I've seen that work. It may also allow you to diagnose that hold-open problem.
We have a new data point as well on things that can go wrong with the gun. Make sure also that the firing pin spring is the correct one. It gets mixed up often with the extractor spring. Lots of guys like the Howard's Feed'n'Wax products for restoring the wood's luster without going to extreme measures. I've used it and like it. I usually use the Restor-a-Finish first.
Available at H Depot.
 
#27 ·
Ok so I decided to tru oil the stock. First time really following directions on this stuff. I couldn't be happier. Also in the mail I got the 2nd mag from the guy I bought the gun from. Plus I tweaked the rear feed lips of the 1st mag, now the bolt doesn't stick open. Works like it should.

Here is the finished result

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