The steel pin is not much of a buffer, it's just a bolt stop so the rear of the soft aluminum receiver doesn't get beat up by the steel bolt. If you like the clickety-clack, by all means stick with the pin. I like the flexible type myself, and I believe, (perhaps mistakenly), that maybe it's easier on my optics too. I have some blue, a couple red, even a couple yellow ones too. And there's the Kidd, a steel pin inside a piece of windshield washer tubing, it's OK too.

 

I tried the Kidd buffer with the steel pin..
It was almost impossible to put in..
But ?
Like almost everyone on here.
I like the tuffer buffer.
I've even a few Nylon buffers that work really well...

I had not thought of the scope getting banged around.

 

never heard of a problem with one myself

 

I like to run nylon buffers on my mach2's and hunting rigs that see HV stuff, but generally do the stock steel in rifles fed standard velocity...of course I have been known to buy a buffer just 'cause it's color matched the color of the stock I was building on

when I was younger I worked at a range that rented 10/22's..saw at least a half dozen guns that had been fired many hundreds of thousands of rounds..only saw one that had an elongated hole for the bolt stop pin...saw more cracked stocks than worn receivers

 

I like to run nylon buffers on my mach2's and hunting rigs that see HV stuff, but generally do the stock steel in rifles fed standard velocity..

Why nylon instead of rubber?

 

Been using the stock steel one in mine since 1971 with no problems.

 

I've never seen a problem developed by using the steel pin. It was a great marketing ploy. The only thing the softer pins have done, that I notice, are quiet the rifle down a little. Just a little. And make me lose 5 or 10 bucks.

 

You got a good point there...😎

 

My 10/22 Target is completely stock right down to the steel buffer pin. No plans to change it.

 

No trigger upgrade ??

No bolt upgrade ?

 

I've had Weaponkraft, Kidd, and the last one was a Tactical Innovations. Basically all do the same thing. I got the weaponkrafts when there wasn't a lot else out there at the time, got the rest because I was already ordering from that place. Its a cheap part, and I prefer it over the clack. Any one you buy from anywhere is probably good. The Kidd can be a pain to take out, the Weaponkraft ones I have are over 10yrs old and no problems, but they are a tight fit. The Tactical Inc basically falls out on its own.

 

Anytime I can reduce the banging of metal hitting in a firearm, I will try to do it.

 

I guess I'll put a tuffer buffer in..
Might as well.
Can't hurt.

 

Makes a big reduction in mechanical noise if you are running a suppressor.

 

+1

 

The bolt stop is the only mod on my 2008 DSP, a do-it-myself made from a 1/4 X 3 1/2 nylon bolt. Around 3k rounds on it so far, and I made five spares. Set me back about $3.

Had a Carbine for several years back around 1980. The steel stop clink, clink never hurt anything. I don't think it dawned on anyone then that it was easy to eliminate.

 

pocked up a1/4" x 12" piece of black polycarbonate rod for $1.88 from McMaster-Carr, was meant for an auto trans shifter upgrade in a Jeep project but ended up not using it..may cut it up and experiment with it's use as a buffer material

 

i like a soft buffer because

it makes the action more QUIET, I could hear the difference when I changed to a poly buffer. just my observation.

 

it makes the action more QUIET, I could hear the difference when I changed to a poly buffer. just my observation.

Imo, your observation is spot on. I have a couple of 1022s that are shot with suppersors installed; with the steel stop installed, the loudest sounds perceived by the shooter, in my experience, are those made by the action cycling, which overshadow the pop of the cartridge going off. After installation of the synthetic buffer, the pop of the cartridge going off is perceived by the shooter as louder than the action cycling. Unfortunately, I didn't think to have someone else shoot them in both conditions so that I could listen and get the non-shooter's perspective. Oh well....

 

I have posted

on here a couple times about making them from nylon bolts from Home Depot. Just search Home Depot here and you can find it.

I can buy a pack of 2 bolts and make 4 buffers for a total cost of about 80 cents.

OR you can buy one from VQ for $12. Its a free country.

Ferox34

 

Buffers

I shot 10/22's in the 60's before buffers even existed. Gun worked fine. Forward to 2010, re-discovered 10/22's, found out about buffers, tried the Volquartson, had trouble getting it in/out, finally settled on the Kidd, for me, easy in/out, rationally, it quieted the action and lessened the battering. I just like the concept as a refinement to a classic and successful design. But I prefer thunk to clank! JMHO

 

No way I am going to pay $10 or so to get one when I can just get a foot-long stick of Delrin 150 and make my own - you can find the stick on the 'zon for less than $7 at the time of this writing, which is enough to make at least nine 1.25-inch by 1/4 buffers. I cut them with a Dremel, then slightly chamfer the edges. They seem to work, with little to no wear after several hundred rounds.

willie
on the Gulf of Mexico

p.s. for however long this URL works (currently $6.60 w/free shipping):

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LXJUMTL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

I wish that link still worked....

 

I've found most of the commercial plastic buffers are made a bit oversize and have to be driven into and out of the receiver for bolt removal.

I have one from TandemKkoss that miked 0.254" (the OEM steel pin and matching hole are 0.250") and it wouldn't go in without excessive force. I chucked it in a drill chuck and sanded it down to 0.251". Now it's a firm press fit by hand but it should have been the right diameter to start.

 

NEVER had a problem out of any of the OEM Bolt Stop Pins. The same can not be said for every Buffer I've tried. And that's been with OEM Triggers and the Kidd Single Stage Triggers. Haven't had a problem yet with the Kidd Two Stages units.

 

I use a cut off nylon bolt. Does quiet things down...Was less than $2 at The Home Depot...Never did have any issues with the stock metal pin though...

 

yes buffers dampen the sound, but I kinda' like hearing the thing clang as it functions...the same way I like hearing my AR make that sproing sound from having that big recoil spring in a metal tube right under your cheek, or that clacking sound the SKS makes as the bolt rattles back and forth in the receiver

 

I had one of the original 10-22's back in 65. The steel buffer was a problem as the holes did get elongated. We tried quite a few things until someone came up with the plastic buffers. Ruger may have fixed the problem but I always changed the buffer/bolt stop after the that first one. Also had the Weaver fiber optic red dot sight on it. Cut to fit 1/4" nylon bolts were one solution.

 

Still running the stock steel bolt in my 10/22. I've toyed with getting a replacement but haven't yet.

Mark

 

For me i guess i have never paid attention to the cang sound. I guess my ear protection is too good, or i'm concentrating on the target so much that i never notice the clang. Or maybe my hearing isn't so good. At least that's what the wife says.

 

Randy at CPC uses Nylon. If you send your gun there for a tune-up, it will come back with a nylon bolt stop. He knows more about these guns than anyone else here, so I'll go with what he likes. lol

The gun will also come back with oversize receiver pins that don't fall out when the stock is removed, and a bolt hold back piece that actually works like it should. All good upgrades.

 

Randy at CPC uses Nylon. If you send your gun there for a tune-up, it will come back with a nylon bolt stop. He knows more about these guns than anyone else here, so I'll go with what he likes. .

I have no doubt this guy know has forgotten more about 10/22 than I will ever know. However, I would be apprehensive about using a nylon. I'm not saying "it doesn't work" I'm saying I would be apprehensive. Especially in New England.

Nylon is a semi-crystalline polymer, and not only does it have a melt temperature, but more importantly it has a glass transition temp. This temp is when the nylon can sort of anneal itself and grow more crystals in itself which will not only cause shrinkage, but make the plastic "stronger"..."stronger" isn't necessarily a word we want to associate with this pin...we want more impact resistance.

Now the temperature at which this happens is pretty low. Depending on the nylon it can happen around 125 degrees Fahrenheit. Your receiver can get that hot. Also, cold weather will have the same effect on the strength. The strength raises (as in tensile, and flexural modulus), and the impact resistance lowers. It's not uncommon for me to shoot at 10 degrees or lower. I get the range to myself. And at those temps nylon can break.

 

correct me if I am wrong

But PA22Rimfire, I think the Ruger Target guns come with the BX trigger, rather than the standard crappy OEM unit. And maybe you got a real decent BX, its sort of luck of the draw.

Ferox34

 

But PA22Rimfire, I think the Ruger Target guns come with the BX trigger, rather than the standard crappy OEM unit. And maybe you got a real decent BX, its sort of luck of the draw.

Ferox34

For what it's worth, my Ruger Target did NOT come with a BX trigger. The cure was some Volquartsen pieces in that one....

 

If anyone needs OEM's I have approx. 60 in a bag When that total reaches about 100 I am gunna make that bag full into a boat anchor.

 

throwing away money.



Plain Jane OEM trigger groups go for $30-$35 on ebay, send them to me, I'll sell 'em.