Hi, I have bought my 1911 6 months ago. The gun had issues from the start. 90% of 1st, 2nd rounds from each mag fail to eject or eject but fail to rock the slide and chamber new round. I tried like 5 different ammo brands and types, cleaning and lubing the gun, but nothing helped. I send the gun for warranty repair and they returned it and said that everything works normally, 5 mags shot with 0 issues so they cleaned the gun and returned it to me. Yesterday I went to test it out and had the same issues. Every 1-2 rounds failed to eject or feed. After shooting like 250 rounds, empty case got hammered into a barrel and I had to take it home, dissasemle it and push it out from the front. What should I do? Its not my first gun so I doubt Im loading the mags wrong or something.
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JOSIPH
Always have to ask when a semi-auto is problematic…are you holding the pistol with a firm grip?
I agree on the 40gr CCI MiniMags. That's pretty much the go-to for any .22 that is finicky.
Also, try dropping a round into the chamber. Does it drop all the way in? Then turn the pistol up and see if it drops out.
If not, there may be a build-up of lead/lube in the chamber, or the chamber may have other issues.
What is the temp? Cold temps and the use of a medium/heavy grease on the sliding areas can cause malfunctions. The ammo is also effected by the temp.
Also, try dropping a round into the chamber. Does it drop all the way in? Then turn the pistol up and see if it drops out.
If not, there may be a build-up of lead/lube in the chamber, or the chamber may have other issues.
What is the temp? Cold temps and the use of a medium/heavy grease on the sliding areas can cause malfunctions. The ammo is also effected by the temp.
I've had the Colt Walther Gold Cup version for about five years and probably put 5-6K rounds through it without any real issues. Ammo was either Fed Auto Match or Win M22 and only problem was the ammo, occasional failure to fire or seemingly weak round that would have weak ejection. The mags are two original mags and another OEM I purchased later. The mags are steel and well made . Sounds like your mags may be part of the problem.
Josiph,
I have found that with "finicky 22's" a larger than normal amount of Oil can help, a lot in some cases (especially with new guns!). Remove the slide and make sure to (heavily) oil the "rails and tracks," that the slide runs back and forth on, also oil any other "points of contact," for the other moving parts, such as the outside of the barrel and inside of the barrel bushing, and more, including the hammer (& underside of the slide) where the underside of the slide goes over the hammer, including the hammer hinge point inside. Wipe off the excess oil, to keep it off of your hands, of course (once reassembled). Note: Never use more than a thin coat of oil inside of the barrel(s), though.
While the slide is off, remove the recoil spring & guide rod (as it is), then install the slide & run it back and forth a lot, looking (feeling) for anything that could be slowing the slide down, such as dings or burrs, even an excess amount of sharp edges on the rails. Sometimes, adding extra oil, and manually running the slide back and forth a lot, can help smooth out sharp edges and other (minor) imperfection problem areas.
As for ammo, use HV to break it in for sure, while as mentioned, CCI Mini-Mags or Stingers are great for "problem guns" like you seem to have, even a single box.
Edit: I've never had to try this, but with 1st and 2nd round problems, I've read (here somewhere) that adding a little bit of oil to the outside of the 1st round can help?
I have found that with "finicky 22's" a larger than normal amount of Oil can help, a lot in some cases (especially with new guns!). Remove the slide and make sure to (heavily) oil the "rails and tracks," that the slide runs back and forth on, also oil any other "points of contact," for the other moving parts, such as the outside of the barrel and inside of the barrel bushing, and more, including the hammer (& underside of the slide) where the underside of the slide goes over the hammer, including the hammer hinge point inside. Wipe off the excess oil, to keep it off of your hands, of course (once reassembled). Note: Never use more than a thin coat of oil inside of the barrel(s), though.
While the slide is off, remove the recoil spring & guide rod (as it is), then install the slide & run it back and forth a lot, looking (feeling) for anything that could be slowing the slide down, such as dings or burrs, even an excess amount of sharp edges on the rails. Sometimes, adding extra oil, and manually running the slide back and forth a lot, can help smooth out sharp edges and other (minor) imperfection problem areas.
As for ammo, use HV to break it in for sure, while as mentioned, CCI Mini-Mags or Stingers are great for "problem guns" like you seem to have, even a single box.
Edit: I've never had to try this, but with 1st and 2nd round problems, I've read (here somewhere) that adding a little bit of oil to the outside of the 1st round can help?
I don’t have one of these…have never looked at one. Others have covered the need for a relatively clean and lightly lubed pistol. Firm grip essential all semi auto any caliber semi auto pistol…especially .22. The fact that the slide isn’t being blown all the way back indicated that the ammo it too weak, limp wrist or a bad chamber. Hard to tell when some ammo isn’t powerful enough. I’d get some Mini Mags and test with them only until I resolved the issues. Firm grip, check. Mini Mags, check,. Clean chamber, lightly lubed pistol, check. Ammo without enough blowback energy can cause some of the symptoms you are describing…like not being able to blow the slide rearward enough to eject the spent case. Are you sure it is extracting? It is possible for you to have a bad chamber that makes extraction worse as the case expands. In this situation the spent case will stick in the chamber and the slide will not have cycled. Easy fix back at the factory.
Do these have P22 type barrels? If so, some P22’s have been showing up in recent years with out of spec chambers and a new barrel solves all issues there. I’m not familiar with the barrel on this pistol but I have my suspicions because some of your issues sound exactly the same. Spent cases should not be stuck hard in the chamber….sounds like either a really dirty chamber which means rounds won’t likely fully seat or a bad chamber…rough or too tight and isn’t letting the case blow out with blowback pressure. So I’m thinking a bad chamber. If it won’t run Mini Mags…you have a pistol problem. No need to try ten types of ammo. I can’t tell by your small flag what country you are in….here in the US we send a problem pistol back to Ft. Smith, Arkansas. You might ask whoever worked on you pistol to please tell you prezackly what ammo they tested it with. But I wouldn’t want a pistol that ran on only one specific ammo. Good luck.
Do these have P22 type barrels? If so, some P22’s have been showing up in recent years with out of spec chambers and a new barrel solves all issues there. I’m not familiar with the barrel on this pistol but I have my suspicions because some of your issues sound exactly the same. Spent cases should not be stuck hard in the chamber….sounds like either a really dirty chamber which means rounds won’t likely fully seat or a bad chamber…rough or too tight and isn’t letting the case blow out with blowback pressure. So I’m thinking a bad chamber. If it won’t run Mini Mags…you have a pistol problem. No need to try ten types of ammo. I can’t tell by your small flag what country you are in….here in the US we send a problem pistol back to Ft. Smith, Arkansas. You might ask whoever worked on you pistol to please tell you prezackly what ammo they tested it with. But I wouldn’t want a pistol that ran on only one specific ammo. Good luck.
I have several Colt conversion kits from the 70s. I can tune the buffer spring down to 8 pounds and they will cycle cci sv without issue. They run best with SK of any flavor though. The cci is just so dirty.
Hi, I own an Hammerli Forge H1, it's almost the same gun... I'm just confirming that minimags seem to work nicely in mine.
I'd like to try standard velocity but I'm not fully sure since minimags seem just good.
My gun as new had quite a bit of protective grease here and there, I cleaned and lubed everything with Ballistol (also inside the magazine, it was a bit "gritty" and there were some residues...)
I'd like to try standard velocity but I'm not fully sure since minimags seem just good.
My gun as new had quite a bit of protective grease here and there, I cleaned and lubed everything with Ballistol (also inside the magazine, it was a bit "gritty" and there were some residues...)
Josiph,
So what's the latest with your pistol? Any luck yet?
Did you try jkv45's suggestion, of seeing if a round would easily go in, and fall out of the chamber (with slide open & locked back)? If it won't pass this test, that should narrow down the area of concern. FWIW, you shouldn't need mini-mags or the like (Stingers), other than to help "break it in" after which it should fire most HV ammo reliably, as I did with mine the other week. Personally, Aguila SE ammo hasn't been the most reliable ammo in my collection, in certain firearms, while in some it's fine. I wouldn't expect any of the SV ammo to function well, until well after most HV ammo's run great and reliably, even then it's a toss up in such a pistol design, some can, some refuse, even with the same make and model gun (sometimes the gun needs to "loosen up" 1st, sometimes a lot, depending on how "tight" it was new).
Please let us know something, progress, testing, etc? More information, almost always helps us, to help you...
So what's the latest with your pistol? Any luck yet?
Did you try jkv45's suggestion, of seeing if a round would easily go in, and fall out of the chamber (with slide open & locked back)? If it won't pass this test, that should narrow down the area of concern. FWIW, you shouldn't need mini-mags or the like (Stingers), other than to help "break it in" after which it should fire most HV ammo reliably, as I did with mine the other week. Personally, Aguila SE ammo hasn't been the most reliable ammo in my collection, in certain firearms, while in some it's fine. I wouldn't expect any of the SV ammo to function well, until well after most HV ammo's run great and reliably, even then it's a toss up in such a pistol design, some can, some refuse, even with the same make and model gun (sometimes the gun needs to "loosen up" 1st, sometimes a lot, depending on how "tight" it was new).
Please let us know something, progress, testing, etc? More information, almost always helps us, to help you...
My Walther/colt 1911 .22 will cycle anything including cci quiet semi auto, st. Velocity, Am eagle suppressor, Winchester suppressor, cci clean subsonic, and all higher power rounds. Never a malfunction so far (excluding the inevitable dead ammo probably - can’t recall). I use boron nitride lube and the slide is so light you can cock it with your pinky.
I don't have the gold cup. (I wanted a rail)
One of the first things I did was get rid of the guide rod and spring.
I replaced them with the Nick Taylor guide rod and recoil spring.
No wiggle of the slide and more reliable and more accurate.
![Image]()
One of the first things I did was get rid of the guide rod and spring.
I replaced them with the Nick Taylor guide rod and recoil spring.
Colt 1911-22
Taylor Tactical LLC is associated with NicTaylor00 on Youtube and provides an outlet for innovations for shooters of all philosophizes. We provide simple DIY modifications to increase magazine capacity in numerous popular 22 caliber pistols such as Sig Sauer, GSG, Ruger, Kimber, Walther...
www.taylor-tactical-supply.com
No wiggle of the slide and more reliable and more accurate.
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