The quickest, easiest and cheapest way, is installing a Volquartsen sear. There is a lot of instructions, for installation, on this forum. You will be amazed at the difference in your trigger. Good luck with your project.

 

Mark II trigger

I have a Mark II Competition that had some trigger work (along with some other stuff) done by SGW (Dennis) I have alot of 22 pistols (including an S and W Model 41) and I like the Mark best of all of them. The trigger work will make a world of difference in your pistol.

 

Volquartsen sear and Clark bushing!!! Anything more is a very small advantage probably not noticed!

 

Agree with Plunker, I also like the volquartsen trigger for removing some of the trigger movement

 

Use the VQ trigger and sear together.Mine had a creepy and heavy break and just replacing the sear gave me a creepy and light break.The trigger will allow you to get rid of most of the pre and over travel.

 

I am new here, and need some advice. I have a MKII Target with a 6" heavy tapered barrel. The trigger is terrible! Not overly heavy, just a lot of creep/ take-up. How can I fix it or who should I send it to?? Thanks

:Welcome: to the Mark II forum. A couple of things you can do. The Volquartsen triggers offer screws for pre and over-travel that will help you shed a good part of the pre-travel. Pre-travel being the "free movement" of the trigger until the tab on the disco begins to push the sear off the hammer notch. That's where the "creep" comes into play. Working to remove creep can be a real "slippery slope", in that, once you go too far with metal removal, you've gone too far and can't fix what's been done. Some pre-travel must be left in play with the Ruger Mark pistols, when adjusting the Volquartsen trigger, or correct function goes away. Over-travel is adjusted by means of the screw going through the trigger shoe face. That can be done too far also, so once you find the "sweet" spot where it all works, stop with the adjustment. Clean the threads, both in the screws and tapped holes for the screws, before beginning any adjustment, with the best oil displacing solvent you can find. Here's something I do when dealing with the adjustment of trigger screws.



I'll use this small channel-lock pliers to upset the crown of the threads a tiny bit so that the screw turns a bit more harder than without the crimped crown. This will keep the screw from inadvertently moving during adjustment, keep the screw in place, and then allow the #242 blue Loc-Tite time to do it's job.

Another thing that may be giving you fits is, if the hammer pin is not all the way in place. Check to see if the right end of the hammer pin is flush with the right, outside face of the receiver.

I don't recommend the use of the Volquartsen hammer bushing, but instead, highly recommend the Clark hammer bushing and hammer bushing pin. The Volquartsen hammer bushing is made to the same specifications as the Ruger hammer bushing, so there's no real advantage in switching. The Clark combo will give a more consistent trigger pull because of how well the Clark bushing fits into the hammer.

You can't go wrong with the Volquartsen Target Sear. It's a fabulously well made replacement that will contribute to a trigger pull weight that will provide you with a trigger pull in the 2-1/2 to 3 pound pull weight as measured by means of a good accurate trigger pull gage. Polishing several of the internal parts in the Mark II will also provide a much more smoothly operating pistol.

If you need anymore help or assistance, please feel free to send a PM, as I have all those parts in stock. :bthumb:

 

Well I just went through this today on my Competition Target, replaced these parts with VQ parts:
trigger
sear (which was a vast improvement over the one I bought 5 years ago. This one was polished to a mirror finish and the engagement face was perfectly smooth and without sharp edges)
firing pin
hammer bushing (and though they may have been to Ruger specs before, the one I got was .0015 larger than my stock Ruger bushing and fit without any side play into the Ruger hammer; not snug but no wobble either)

and the extractor with the Tactical Solutions unit
and put in a Ruger extended magazine release in SS. (This was a rough casting so I spent an hour polishing it)

Everything went as planned except the disconnector plunger in the trigger was making an awful scraping when I first assembled the lower, so I relieved the rear edge of the hole in the trigger with a small file and fixed that. Now, no creep, short take up, unnoticeable over travel. My only surprise is that the trigger/sear reset is so smooth that I can't feel it while shooting. In the house when I test it it is distinct and there is enough slack that there is no chance of not resetting, but when shooting I have to just assume it's happening because like I said, it is so smooth I can't really feel it.

All in all, well pleased with the outcome of $125 in parts and about three hours of labor.

 

Well I just went through this today on my Competition Target, replaced these parts with VQ parts:
trigger
sear (which was a vast improvement over the one I bought 5 years ago. This one was polished to a mirror finish and the engagement face was perfectly smooth and without sharp edges)
firing pin
hammer bushing (and though they may have been to Ruger specs before, the one I got was .0015 larger than my stock Ruger bushing and fit without any side play into the Ruger hammer; not snug but no wobble either)and the extractor with the Tactical Solutions unit
and put in a Ruger extended magazine release in SS. (This was a rough casting so I spent an hour polishing it)

Everything went as planned except the disconnector plunger in the trigger was making an awful scraping when I first assembled the lower, so I relieved the rear edge of the hole in the trigger with a small file and fixed that. Now, no creep, short take up, unnoticeable over travel. My only surprise is that the trigger/sear reset is so smooth that I can't feel it while shooting. In the house when I test it it is distinct and there is enough slack that there is no chance of not resetting, but when shooting I have to just assume it's happening because like I said, it is so smooth I can't really feel it.

All in all, well pleased with the outcome of $125 in parts and about three hours of labor.

That's the main reason that many folks, myself included, choose the Clark Mark II style hammer bushing over the other two aftermarket types currently sold. Better fit and performance. :bthumb: Others, that offer a replacement hammer bushing for the Ruger Mark II pistols emulate the dimensions that Ruger makes their bushings to. You gotta then wonder, "What's the point in getting a replacement if nothing improves?" A tight fit hammer bushing, like Clarks, will eliminate any 'play' in the fit between hammer bushing and hammer bushing hole, in the hammer. That condition will offer a much more consistent trigger pull because the sear will enter, and then, come off the hammer notch the same way, every time. Clark, with their Mark II hammer bushing package, also provides a new hammer bushing pin that fits their hammer bushing perfectly, and the right end of that pin, is slightly longer and will normally fit flush to the right, outside face, of the receiver.