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Tikka T1X Shells stuck in chamber

3.5K views 16 replies 7 participants last post by  Bigmikeg  
#1 · (Edited)
I bought a new Tikka T1X 2 weeks ago. I'm having a problem with shells getting stuck in the chamber hard. The bolt doesn't want to move, and if I pull hard enough the extractor slips off and I have to pry the shell out with a screw driver. They get really wedged in there.
Here's the sequence of events

  • Bought gun new
  • Cleaned gun: (CLP patches, CLP + brush twice, dry patchs)
  • Shot gun for first time. I notice the bolt was sometimes hard to pull, but most of the time it worked fine. Ammo was Aguila, and Federal Game Shok
  • Did not clean. Let gun sit for a week.
  • Shot again. A round gets stuck in the chamber almost every time. All I had with me was the Federal Game Shok. Another person loaned me a few round of Federal Gold Medal and it was still sticky to extract but it generally did extract. It didn't get lodged in like the GameShok does

Any advice other than a) Clean it b) Call Beretta? The folks at the range said "Use different ammo." But I'm not in love with that answer. It seems like something's not right.
 
#3 ·
I can cycle live rounds perfectly. Very smooth, no issues.

I looked a lot at the cases that came out. They seemed fine, other than some scuffs and scrapes where they were rubbing when trying to pull them out. It happened for about 20 of 30 rounds fired, so it's not a 1-off ammo problem.

I guess I'll need to have Beretta look at it. :sad:
 
#6 ·
Only problem I ever had that sounds like yours and this probably isn't your issue is once I had a H&R Model M12 and it developed a carbon ring that was causing the empties to stick. I cleaned the carbon ring and it worked perfect afterwards.

If your extractor is not chipped then there has to be something in the chamber causing enough friction to prevent extraction after the case has expanded. That's all I can think of and unfortunately would be a mfg issue. If you have access to a borescope it would be great to examine the chamber.
 
#7 ·
I think it probably needs to go back, but I would have to try using some JB bore paste on a tight fitting patch in the chamber area before I sent it in, another possibility is the extractor cut may have a burr from the factory. Good luck with it.
 
#9 ·
Anything's possible but I've been under the impression that design of the T1x allows for dry firing without risk of putting a ding in the chamber. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I'm not aware of any current production rifles that will ding the chamber when dry fired. Problem with many, including the T1x, is that it can be hard on the firing pin when it's repeatedly banging into the mechanical stop.

The initial post was 4 1/2 years ago. I would hope they got the issue resolved. I wouldn't mind an update to hear if/how it was
 
#10 ·
Thanks for your follow up, but I definitely know the Tikka puts a burr on the chamber because as of a year ago, I am new to the sport, and actually bought a titanium firing pin because I heard that some pins could get damaged from dry firing. If I didn’t count the rounds, and dry fired my Tikka, it would cause a dent in the face of the action, which caused extraction and feeding problems! I had to purchase a swage tool to reshape the chamber. I actually use the tool every other cleaning to make sure my chamber is round and true so I don’t have issues at the range.
22s I’ve learned are notorious for leaving wax from the rounds in the action, and with the dirt from the burnt powder cause the extractor to not catch the rim properly. So proper cleaning on a regular basis is imperative!
I’ve learned so much in such a short time, mostly from UTube videos, and feedback from friends I’ve met at the range…
 
#12 ·
@Bigmikeg I've been around awhile and I read a lot of posts here on RFC and other forums. You're the first I've heard of with an actual dinged chamber in a T1x. I have heard of several people breaking their FB by dry firing but it's not from the nose hitting the chamber. I can dry fire my T1x all I want without issue except I'd rather not risk breaking the pin from it slamming into the mechanical stop

I've had a chamber swaging tool in my kit for years. I've only had to use it once but it sure comes in handy

And I totally get that we need to keep the chambers clean on these things. Again, been doing this awhile.
 
#13 ·
Very good. My gunsmith is the one who actually sold me the gun, and he said because of it being a “rim fire”, not a center fire, that when dry fired, especially with a titanium firing pin, which is harder than the metal face of the action it dings, it actually caused a burr. That’s why you can swage the metal face to bring it back to round. I’m just regurgitating his opinion, which to me makes sense.
 
#14 ·
Sounds like your gunsmith is generalizing about what used to be true with many (not all) 22 rimfire firearms. As I mentioned, most (pretty much all that I'm aware of) 22 LR rifles made today can not cause a burr because the pin doesn't travel far enough to cause damage. If I'm not mistaken, the pin that come from the factory is not Titanium. The TI pins are aftermarket. One of our members here offer a very nice one for sale in our classifieds section. I have one. Perhaps he can chime in and enlighten us @Zeke06
 
#17 ·
I purchased my titanium pin from MGW(Midwest Gun Works). It works great, like I said. Maybe next time I go to the range, I can get a closeup picture of my chamber face to show you what I’m talking about. The rifle is a shooter, and I put a lot of money into her. I bought a couple of pkgs of dry fire dummy rounds to protect the action. I appreciate all of your feedback and opinions on this matter. If anyone else wants to chime in that may be experiencing the same issue, please do. I don’t want you guys to think I’m crazy…lol