The GSG STG-44 THREAD - SIGHTS, OPTICS AND MOUNTS

There are several accessories you might want to have for this rifle - an optic, a sling, spare magazines and replica mag pouches are all widely available. The rifle is accurate enough to make mounting an optic worthwhile. While the iron sites are adequate for outdoor shooting, in the mediocre lighting present in most indoor shooting ranges the iron sights are barely visible. To compound the problem, on most of these rifles, the iron sights are "off" and actually make the rifle shoot too low at close range - even with the rear sight adjusted all the way. But if you intend to use the iron sights exclusively, there are a couple of simple ways to fix the defects in the sights, and these are examined in another post further down on this page.

Once I fired the rifle, I (reluctantly) realized I would have to use an optic most of the time. I would have preferred to just use the iron sights without an optic; adding one spoils the lines of the rifle, and the scope mount is just one more thing to remove before cleaning the gun. But I already wear glasses because of my aging eyes, and the factory sights on this rifle are already hard to see, especially in dim light, so, the only question was which mount and scope combo it would be.

Since I more or less had to use a scope sight, which of course requires a mount, I wanted a mount/optic combo that looked reasonably close to the original German issue parts, without breaking the bank just for a little old rimfire fun gun. And this was not as easy to find as you might think.

Below is shown a German war-era MP44, modified by the Waffenamt with a hastily-added scope mount. The mount is a simple metal bar, spot-welded to the upper receiver.

A few of the original Sturmgewehrs, no one really knows how many, were fitted with an optic at the request of some German ordnance officer or the other. The designers probably never anticipated that a scope might be fitted, so a number of the rifles had to be hurriedly modified as above, to make this possible. Most commonly the ZF4 scope was pressed into service as this was the most widely issued German optic of the war. Some Sturmgewehrs were even fitted with the very advanced "Vampir" infrared night vision optic. Unfortunately, little information remains about how many, if any of the MP44's thus fitted were ever used on the battlefield. Ultimately, it was decided by the Germans that the modest accuracy potential of the Sturmgewehr simply did not justify the expense and time needed for adding an optic, and the whole project was quietly dropped.

Genuine and replica German scopes and scope mounts as shown in the image are still available for a price. However it would not be an easy thing to attach this type of scope mount to the GSG rifle. An ersatz copy-cat type mount and optic is probably close enough for most shooters like me.

The GSG rifle comes with a scope mount from the factory. To install it you unbolt the iron sights and bolt on the scope mount as a replacement. The factory mount might be okay for a red dot sight but for any other optic it mounts way too far forward to be practical. The image shows the rifle with the factory scope mount and aftermarket scope; note the very long eye relief from the optic

i settled on a "UTG MP5 Steel Claw Mount with STANAG to Picatinny Adaptor G5" mount.

This mount clamps to the rear of the upper receiver. It cost $65. Please know the mount, out of the box, is probably going to scratch up your receiver at the clamping points. But I'm thinking of refinishing the rifle with Durablue in the black (from Brownell's) sometime soon, the scratches might be the excuse I need to do it anyway.

To fit the mount I found the scope shown in the photo above. It is a "Leapers AccuShot 4XT38 Tactical Scope - Stanag mount". I found it on Ebay for $155. Unfortunately this scope is no longer being made, which is a shame as it is a passably close copy to the original ZF4 scope.

A simpler and cheaper kind of mount is the claw mount shown below. I bought the one in the image for mounting my Weaver scope on the rifle, it's just called "Tactical MP5 HK G3 SCOPE MOUNT" and it cost $12. It is not QR but if you like your optic mounted low, this might be the one to get. For this type of mount you will want "high" mounts (as opposed to the low or medium style) or else your optic won't be mounted high enough to see over the front sight block.

Below is the mount with QR high rings and a Weaver V3 scope

At the range I test fired this setup and after a couple of dozen shots, I set about zeroing in at the range's maximum distance of about 40 or 50 meters. The Leapers scope is no target grade optic, nevertheless I quickly got it to make 3 to 4 inch groups with the occasional flier every magazine load. Considering that this gun is designed to be a replica rifle and a fun plinker, the reliability (400 rounds and no jams) and accuracy are unusually good for a gun of this type, and adding a scope makes it even more fun to shoot.

 

Gsg stg-44 magazine disassembly

There are three different magazines made for the GSG rifle. Two are 10 round capacity and one holds 25 for those in the Free States. The long magazine is made in either 10 or 24 rounds, the 10 rounder is blocked by the height of the magazine block and magazine pin to limit its capacity. There is also a short 10 round mag available.

Short 10-round magazine for the STG44.

The only magazines are those manufactured by GSG. They are widely available online and the price range is $28 and up.

The magazines are easy to take apart but not so easy to reassemble. So cleaning the mags is something I limit to a flushing with tried-and-true brake cleaner. Another good reason not to disassemble the mags very often is because they are plastic, including the screw holes. The screw threads will soon strip out if they are used too much.

You will need these tools to disassemble the magazine: 10 or 12 cable ties, one or two medium slotted screwdrivers, 2 X Torx screwdrivers size T6 and T9. Cutters to clip the cable ties.

Replacement mag springs are available. The magazines in the STG44 use the exact same spring as in the GSG 5 and the GSG AK47 magazines. There are two lengths of magazine spring, one for the 10 and one for the 25.
You can get springs here
https://www.hkparts.net/shop/pc/MP5-Magazines-Mag-Clamps-Loader-c74.htm

MAGAZINE DISASSEMBLY

The magazines are held together by 10 screws, 8 X T9 Torx screws on the magazine side and floor plate, and two smaller screws, size T6, up top near the feed lips as shown in the image below

With all 10 screws out, the magazine halves may have to be pried apart using a screwdriver or two. The magazines are not glued together as some have stated, or at least mine weren't.

Use care while removing the top-most screws since the mag follower (part #96) WILL fly out like a projectile if it's not contained. Also after removing the floor plate screws set them aside from the others, as the threads are different then the other 6.

ASSEMBLING THE MAGAZINE

1. Reassembling the magazines is much less easy then taking them apart. The problem is that the spring will squirm its way out of its track as soon as you compress it. It seems impossible to put it all back together at first, but it really isn't, they assembled them at the factory somehow after all. So after some thought, I found a way that worked: I use a whole bunch of plastic cable ties to keep the spring from twisting out. Now I realize this is a cumbersome and complicated way to do this with all the cable ties and there's probably another way to do it. And if somebody knows a better way I'd sure like to know! But this method actually worked so I am passing it on. Since wrestling the snake-like spring into the magazine and keeping it there is a clumsy process at best, however you do it.

The zip ties keep the spring from popping out of its track yet in such a way that the spring can compress too. So by using the zip ties, you can press the mag follower/thumbpiece down inside the magazine far enough to capture all the parts.

2. To start assembling the magazine, place the spring into its track on part #98, "magazine body left". Slide it over the tab on part #100 "magazine spacer" - this part should already be pressed onto part #99 magazine pin (image below)

(There are different holes in #98 this pin can be pressed into, depending on which spring you are allowed to use in your state. The highest or second highest is for the 10 rounder and the very bottom hole is where the pin goes for the 25 round mag.)

You will need about 8 or 10 ties. Now wrap a cable tie all the way around the outside of #98 "mag body left" and pull it tight over the magazine half and spring. Go up a bit and pull on another cable tie, you will need one every inch or two. Keep adding cable ties until you are about an inch or two below the feed lip and these should be enough to secure the spring for the next step, pushing in the magazine follower into the magazine and capturing the parts with the other magazine half.

2. Next pick up part #94 "mag body right", (the mag follower and thumbpiece, part #95, go in this half). Place the magazine follower on the pin of #95, "magazine thumbpiece" - the follower is a press fit so hold it in place for now. Bring the two magazine halves together and place the mag follower into the end of the magazine spring, (in the left magazine half). Work the follower and spring down inside the magazine halves - to do that, seperate the mag body just barely enough to slide the spring + magazine follower all the way down inside the magazine. (The idea is to hold the spring in place in its track, while you press the magazine follower down inside the magazine and under the feed lips.)

The zip ties hold the spring in its track, allowing you to assemble the right half onto the left and install the screws.

3. Continue to hold the magazine halves together as it would not be pleasant if everything flew apart right now. Put in the lowest pair of magazine side screws but do not tighten them all the way. It's time to remove the zip ties now, so cut the bottom most zip ties and pull them out of the mag body. Now screw in the next pair of magazine screws. Cut the cable ties here, repeat until all the ties are out and the screws are all in but not tight. Install the two small T6 size screws (the ones by the feed lips) loosely now too. If everything went right, the spring. the magazine follower and the thumbpiece are still in place.

4. With the mag almost fully assembled, try to move the thumbpiece up and down. The mag follower should have no binding or sticking, and when you release the thumbpiece at any point in its travel the follower ought to slam upwards from spring pressure alone. If that's the case, install the magazine floor plate and its screws now.

6. Now tighten the screws some more, but again, don't try to tighten them all the way yet. As you tighten the mag screws you might find you have a sticky follower so move the magazine thumbpiece every so often as you tighten to make sure it still moves without binding. If it sticks or binds, the magazine might have gone together wrong - it's possible that a spring coil might have got caught between the parts or something like that so, if you can't make the mag function perfectly at this point, the whole thing might need to come apart to do it again.

Ideally the magazine spring and follower should function while clean and dry. If you want to lube them anyway, a dry lubricant like molybdenum powder is probably ideal.

 

STG-44 Oiler

I do like my Stg-44, when going to the .22 only ranges I'm asked is that really a .22. I found this item that fits in the butt stock hole that I think was a German Army standard item with the weapon: https://www.libertytreecollectors.com/productcart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=703&idcategory=51 . It's a Kar-98 oiler that being put in a weapon in 1943/45 would have made sense for supply ease and the manufacturing tooling already on line.
Jump62
aka Paul

 

That little bottle is a great idea, perfect shape and about the only thing that'll fit the hole and be useful too, actually. I didn't know they made these, I bought a plastic SKS oiler and just put Mobil 1 in it but of course it doesn't fit in the hole in the stock. I'm going to get one of these and keep some Breakfree inside of it, it'll work for last minute oiling at the range.

 

G.s.t.g. 44 rifle - slings, mag pouches, mods, and further reading

There are some accessories available for the STG 44 rifle that the average owner may want to have. While the selection is unfortunately, fairly limited compared to more popular rifles such as the 10/22, there are still plenty of extras enough that you could easily spend what the rifle cost you just on optics and other accessories.

The rifle is a fun plinker and probably lacks the potential to be much more then that. Accurate shots out to 100 yards that keep in a 6 inch group, might be the limit of its capabilities. So any expensive modifications to make the rifle more accurate may have limited results no matter what you do to it.

SLINGS

The first accessory I got was a sling. Even for carrying the rifle a short distance, a sling is nice to have just to keep both hands free. There was nothing special about the original leather sling used on the genuine MP44, as the Germans simply issued the Sturmgewehr with the same sling they used for millions of K98 bolt action rifles.

This sling was a leather strap with diamond crosshatch pattern on one side, that had a leather keeper for adjusting the length, a steel buckle, and a leather stopper with a metal button. You can get a replica leather sling for about $20-30

Instructions for mounting the sling are here

http://bergflak.com/slings3.html

MAGAZINE POUCHES

The German wartime issue pouches were made of canvas with leather straps yo hold the cover shut. They held 3 magazines each, and came by the pair with back and neck straps so the soldier could wear the pouches on the front. As these fellows are doing below.

There are plenty of reproduction pouches available; whether they are practical to use or not is a different matter. AKM pouches will also work since they are about the right size, and you can get them in an individual or double pouch instead of having to haul around a minimum of 3 at all times. The best repros are made of canvas, and cost around $30-$70; some of the cheaper ones are made of Jute (a tough plant fiber similar to burlap). Canvas repro pouches shown below

Rear view of the mag pouches

PROBLEMS AND ISSUES

Problems: The bolt contacts the hammer after every shot to recock it, of course, and because of this the bolt has a mildly annoying issue. After only 300 rounds I found significant galling on the bottom of the bolt. where it hits the hammer. The hammer itself showed no wear, only the bolt looked worn. I used grease on this area before firing it, but even if you ran the rifle dry, on a properly hardened steel part there should be little or no visible wear after so little use. All i can figure is that maybe the bolt did not receive proper heat treating or else the steel they used is just too soft. After designing the rest of the rifle with such painstaking attention to quality, I don't know how GSG could manufacture such a poorly-made part.

I haven't returned the gun for this issue (these rifles have a 2 year warranty) nor do i intend to unless it starts misfiring. Because unless the galling actually caused misfires, I'm inclined to think the factory would not or could not, do much to fix this anyway even if they wanted to. The part's a bit imperfect and that's probably not enough to call for some kind of factory fix. But the galling doesn't affect the operation of the rifle and truthfully, is probably just more of an aesthetic issue. To remove the galling, I polished it out with #180 emery cloth - and that cleaned it up pretty well. The hammer is obviously made of harder metal then the bolt, because the hammer shows no wear whatsoever. After puzzling over this issue, I finally settled on using this brake grease, (image) since I had it around for cars anyway, and it seems to do the job better then anything else. I just apply this grease on the contact points of the bolt and on the hammer, and there is little or no galling after that.

If you need to order parts for the rifle, email the distributor, who is (ATI) and their email is

blake.thompson@americantactical.us
customerservice@americantactical.us

 

GSG Sturmgewehr, that somebody has modified to full-auto

"Don't try this etc.".

Having never given this type of thing much thought, I have no idea how (or why) he did this. Even so it's probably worth a look.

 

Don't file your front sight down to cure the problem of low POI with iron sights on the GSG Stg-44. First of all, there isn't enough front sight to file down, and second, it is an irreversible mutilation of the rifle. Do this instead. It is simple, reversible and brought my rifle to exact poa/poi with the rear sight all the way down. I used small nuts instead of washers:

http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_6_41/391904_Question_on_the_GSG_StG_44.html

 

This is a great idea actually, thanks for the tip. I don't have grinder, i might try a nylon spacer if i can't make washers with a square side.

 

I used some small nuts that I had in my junk drawer in the garage. They were large enough to clear the screw threads but small enough to fit inside the sight base. No grinding necessary. They also turned out to be the exact right thickness to adjust the POI perfectly.

 

What to do when your rifle shoots too low.

You have to give the designers at GSG some credit, the sights on this rifle are meticulously designed if not over-designed for a rifle of this type. They are just as good if not better then the iron sights on the real thing. But there's a problem with most of these rifles though: When you use the iron sights the rifle hits far too low. Even when the rear sight is adjusted all the way up to its maximum elevation, it still shoots too low!

If you plan to just use an optic all the time then you've already solved the problem. But for those using the iron sights though...problem. The cheapest and fast way to fix the problem is simply to file down the front sight. (Filing down the front sight post, raises the muzzle, when you line up the rear sight with it. Thus a shorter front sight post raises the point where the bullet strikes on target too.) Of course this is irreversible - know that once you start filing off metal there is obviously no putting it back on. So clearly a better solution is needed.

Other people have simply fabricated some way of raising the rear sight instead. This accomplishes the same thing as filing but without mangling anything. To do this, you need a spacer of some kind, nylon, metal, aluminum washers, anything that will fit over the rear sight screw posts. Start with spacers about 1/8 thick - stacking several washers ought to raise the sight this much. Notice in the image, the washers were ground flat on one side, to fit against the rear wall of the sight well. A nylon spacer might fit over the screw posts better, or even a short length of metal tubing.

To remove the rear sight, push the front part of the sight ramp down against the spring, then pull it out. Now pull out the leaf spring to access the two phillips screws, and remove the screws.

 

Thanks for awesome write-up Marc!!
I haven't taken my Stg-44 apart aside from the standard breakdown process to clean the bolt, but it is good to have the process documented for the inevitable time when I do need to get in there further.

Your input is much appreciated!

A query regarding the barrel: there are some other comments in various forums about play or wiggle in the barrel. Indeed, when I grasp mine while holding the main body of the rifle and try to move it, I get a bit of movement there. It's not loose enough by itself (say, like if it was on a bench rest) but it's not totally solid.
I'd have to think that using blue LocTite and tightening the screws that hold the barrel as you outline in Step 8 would be beneficial to reduce or stop the wiggle, so maybe I'll try that to make it more secure. I haven't noticed any issues with regards to accuracy or a different POI from shoot to shoot, but it may be a good preventative measure regardless.
Thoughts?

again, many thanks for your process.

 

Fedude, I have seen posts on other sites, from other GSG owners with the loose barrel problem. I haven't looked into the fix in detail but these are a couple solutions they tried with more-or-less good results.

The easy way, a few people tried shimming the barrel into the receiver, to make the grip on the barrel tighter. A soda can could be cut into pieces for this, since it doesn't take anything exotic to make a simple shim.

Some people wanted a permanent fix and used a stock bedding solution to make the barrel fit more tightly. Acraglass from Brownell's is one such bedding compound and it goes for $24; if I had this problem, and the shims turned out to be unsatisfactory, I think I'd try bedding the barrel into the receiver using this stuff.

I think you could even use JB Weld for this if you just wanted something fast and cheap...why not? You might not want to glue the barrel in place for all eternity though - which is what would happen if you use JB Weld - so I'd coat the barrel section with grease first!

 

Thanks for the insights about the barrel, Marc. From the sound of things, it's not so much loose screw tension that could be rectified by tightening, but rather an issue with a size mismatch between barrel and mount.
Screw tension, shims and then bedding seems a logical progression to try and address any issues (comment about using grease or other release compound duly noted! lol), although as I said, mine isn't really problematic at this point.

cheers,
Bruce

 

Before I even bought the rifle I read the tales of loose wobbly barrels but not experienced it, yet. Like I said I'd bed the barrel with the epoxy or JB Weld if it became a problem but have yet to have an issue.

The accuracy potential of this rifle is pretty good so if I wanted to maximize that I'd go with an optic and forget the iron sights, since this rifle is more accurate then the sights it comes with. i don't want to remove the irons if there's any way around it since i bought it for appearance, after all. If i wanted to hit something i'd get a 10/22. Half tempted to weld on that metal bar and mount German war time optics, a ZF4 or similar, German optics are generally excellent. Ebay is full of them if you want to pay the freight but then you'd need to find somebody to attach the metal bar...probably you'd want to attach the mount brazed or silver-soldered, I doubt the metal would withstand the heat of welding but I could be wrong.

 

I've been looking at the Stg and appreciate this thread. One question which I hope you owners will know the answer to..... the thread nut on the end of the barrel, are the threads the same as say the HK 416 or the gsg 522? I would want to buy an adapter to change the threads to 1/2-28.

 

Have you found proper thread adapter?

I'm trying to fins this adapter to make standard 1/2-28, but ATI no longer sells this adapter for some reason...

 

If i had a way to measure it I'd find out for you, but I don't have the dies to check... I don't really know what thread size the factory threaded the muzzle for.

 

Early gun

Mine did not have the cocking tube you showed. Just a spring. In your picture which end of the cocking tube faces forward, the thin rod like part or the other end?

 

Mine did not have the cocking tube you showed. Just a spring. In your picture which end of the cocking tube faces forward, the thin rod like part or the other end?

No cocking tube? I think your gun might be missing a part... anyway, the sharp end of the cocking tube goes forward, and the part that the cocking spring can slide over, points to the rear. And you slip the spring over that part.. I'd be interested in a pic if you could take one to show me what you mean? I feel like I am missing something here.

 

Several Versions

The early ones just had a cocking spring. Then came a version with a plastic rod at the front end that was suppose to hold the spring in place. I'm trying to upload a picture of that. Then came the more elaborate piece that you are describing. I have had all three. But I'm not sure how to put it in the gun. There are pictures of virtually everything on the web EXCEPT THAT.

 

Hey guys - just became a member in order to join in on this thread.

I recently purchased a GSG STG-44, and thanks to the the info posted here by Marc780 and others, have been doing a few mods.

Seeing that the gun did shoot low as delivered, I thought I'd see if I could find a slightly different way to raise the rear sight to bring it up flush with the top of the mount.

I used a 1/8" thick piece of black Delrin to make a shim that was the exact size of the sigh base. When in place it brought the sight right up to the level of the base.

That's just the start of the fun, and I'll post a few more pictures shortly when I complete the next stage.

Jay

 

Now

you need to go buy a Hill & Mac centerfire sturmgewehr.
The one I've ordered is in 7,62x39.

 

you need to go buy a Hill & Mac centerfire sturmgewehr.
The one I've ordered is in 7,62x39.

Certainly a worthwhile upgrade, but considerably out of range for me...

 

I decided I wanted a shorter magazine so I wouldn't have to always shoot standing with the gun. I found 10-round short mags at Gunmagwarehouse.com, but they are $34 each (https://gunmagwarehouse.com/ati-german-sport-guns-gsg-stg-44-22-lr-10-round-short-magazine.html). The standard mags are on sale for $20 each (https://gunmagwarehouse.com/ati-german-sport-guns-gsg-stg-44-22-lr-25-round-magazine.html) so I thought I'd give it a shot to cut one down to about the same size.

To take the mag apart (the spring is super long and will shoot out - so watch it) you will need T10 and T6 torx. The T6s at the top are tiny, and I had to go to the hardware store to get one.

The bottom spring base is on a roll-pin, and can be moved to a few different positions inside the mag. After removing everything I put the halves back together and marked where I thought I should cut - which was right at the "16" mark.

After cutting you will notice there is no longer material for the screws holding the foot of the mag to screw into. I put a thin piece of tape (clear package tape would do) between the halves before fitting them together and filling the void with JB Quick Weld. After sitting overnight I separated the pieces and cleaned up the end.

I estimated that about 2" needed to be removed from the spring, so I cut it and bent the end back to the proper shape to fit in the follower. The rear base for the spring was moved as far down as possible, and stuck out slightly past the bottom of the mag, but the foot is hollow so it doesn't interfere.

The foot of the mag has protruding areas where the screws holes are that needed to be sanded off, and you will need to drill pilot holes in the filler to mount the foot.

To reassemble it I found that I could put one end of the spring on the half of the mag that has the secured bottom mount and the other on the follower on the other half. By slowly squeezing them together and aligning the screw holes I was able to work the spring back into place with too much trouble - but it may take a couple tries.

Wallah! - a $20 short mag!

I also did some custom painting to make it look less like a new plastic mag.

I need to check the exact capacity and functioning, so I don't know if I've been completely successful yet or not...

 

I think I'm finally finished with the work on the STG.

Here it is after getting "the treatment" to duplicate years of hard combat duty -

I also added a Mauser K98 sling from International Military Antiques (worn and aged a bit as well), and did some paintwork on the original long magazine.

Deciding to take a few liberties as well, I added a bipod and the previously mentioned modified short magazine to make the gun a bit easier to handle at the range. Not completely correct, but I have seen photos of short magazines altered by soldiers to get a lower and safer firing position. The bipod seemed like it might have been handy in combat at times also.

This gun just looked better to me in less-than-perfect condition, but to each his own.

That's about it for now. Maybe another similar project eventually if I find the right replica.

 

Had a chance to spend some more time at the range with the STG, and wanted to report what I learned.

First, the shortened magazine worked fine, and held 14 rounds (though I only load 10 normally). I plan to shorten the second one so I'll have 2 short and 1 standard mag. The thing I noticed was the tab used to move the follower down for easier loading will contact your hand as you shoot if you grip the gun at the mag well. I may see if I can take it down so it's still usable but doesn't interfere your hand - as that's a decent way to hold the gun. I had a couple of failures to feed, but they very well could have been due to that issue (and the fact it was about 20F with some wind).

I shot some Aguila .22s with lead and copper-washed bullets (about 1150/1250 fps) and some CCI Standard Velocity, with a few issues but nothing consistent. I didn't have a problem with the next-to-last round feeding. The CCIs seemed to load into the mag easier, but after a while I couldn't feel my fingers...

The bipod and short mag made it much handier to shoot off the bench, and because of the way the outdoor public 50 yd range is set-up, shooting standing or prone is not possible due to the "baffling" to keep rounds from clearing the top of the backstop.

I struggled with the sights. I posted a target at 50yd with a large aiming mark, which proved to be a mistake. I was constantly losing the front sight post in the large black area, and the pointed shape didn't help. It was a dark overcast day as well and getting towards dusk. I really didn't get any good groups, but that could have been more due to the conditions and my sighting than the rifle.

My 1/8" spacer for the rear sight proved too much at 50 yds, with all shots being high, so I removed it. That put the rear sight adjustment about in the middle without it, which worked, but provides an odd sight picture because you are now seeing a gap under the thin rear sight blade. I think I'll make a 1/16" spacer and give it a try next time.

Overall I'm pleased with the rifle, but there are still a few things to work on.

 

Finished modifying the 2nd mag. Shortened it and ground the tab way down to see if it will stay out of the way of your fingers when holding the gun at the mag well.

Ground the tab until it was an even thickness -

Installed in the shortened mag -

Not as handy for loading, but should work. The mags are sticky when unloaded. It feels like the follower is getting jammed up inside the mag at the top. Once it drops down 1/8", or has a round loaded, it is better. Probably try some dry lube to see if it will help smooth it out.

 

%%%% that battle worn finish you did looks awesome!! I still need to order a sling for mine, one of my only rifles without one

 

Thanks! It was kinda fun doing the research and trying to duplicate the look of a real battle-worn STG.

Taking out to the range again tomorrow. I'm still struggling with the original sights, with the pointed front sight blade, but haven't found a reasonably priced scope/mount set-up that looks right.