Sorry, but I don't know your level of expertise or knowledge.

There are different inserts available for aperture sights.

i.e.

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For shooting on black target roundels, the front ring element is best,
and depending on your eyesight, you should have a circle of white on the outside edge to help your eye centre the target.
Perhaps someone else could explain in a bit more detail.

So when looking through, there is one circle viewed through a number of others, all centred.

You adjust the rear sight to to get POI in the centre, obviously with Horizontal (top) and vertical (side) adjusting knobs.

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The black target roundels are generally correctly sized for 25, 50 and 100yds for the sight elements.

Many sights explaining the use of sites if you Google something applicable.

Using the front post sight elements are a little different, and depends what you're shooting at.

Some will advocate a 'six o'clock' hold, where the sight post or bead POA is below the desired POI, in some circumstances so as not to obliterate the view of the target.
You can either centre the target or the post, and set the rear accordingly.
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Youtube video for front posts where the post is centred;

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cheers,
SS

 

The eye has the ability to self center what it sees. What you want when shooting a bullseye target is a circal in a circle in a cricle. It takes time to trust what you are seeing. You do want the white outline around the bullseye. Larger is better. Your front insert will determine what the distance your rifle is set to shoot. Could be 50' could be 50 yrds. You will need the correct target for the distance you are shooting. It will take time to master this. Don't get discorraged too early in the game. I've been shooting this style of sight for 30+ years. I shoot better than most, but not as good as some others. Onch you get the hang of it, you can shoot groups almost as good as a scope. It is fun.

 

Your front insert will determine what the distance your rifle is set to shoot. Could be 50' could be 50 yrds. You will need the correct target for the distance you are shooting.

No, you can't tell at what distance a rifle is zeroed by looking at the foresight element. Formal target shooting uses proportionately larger targets for longer distances, all look the same through the sights. For example British NSRA targets are 2in for 25 yards, 4.5in for 50m, and 8in for 100 yards. I use the same element for all three distances.

However it is entirely correct that you want to use a target that is large enough to see correctly at your shooting distance, and a larger element is better. Large gives more room for wobble without the target touching the element, and it gives a brighter picture which is easier to aim with.

 

When adjusting the sights, the marking is the reverse of what you would expect:

H = hoch = High
T = teif = Low
R = recht = Right
L = links = Left

In order to adjust the sights, you turn the knobs in the direction that you are hitting. If you are shooting to the right of your target, you turn the knob towards "R". If you are shooting high, you turn the knob towards "H".

By the way, these are not "open" sights, rather they are peep sights (iron sights cover both types).

 

you also have the option of clear inserts for the front. They are counter bored to different sizes and may work better than metal inserts in certain light situations. A larger insert may not always be better for everyone. If I use a .36mm or above at 50 yards there is too much white around the bull for me to get a consistent picture. But, that is me; another person may shoot fine with a 4.0mm at 50 yards. I suggest buying a few inserts and trying them. Something like a 2.5, 2.8, 3.2, and a 3.6 would let you see what works best for you.

And, after you practice a little, you will be amazed at the goups you can get. My best 5 shot group at 25 yards is .080" and my best at 50 yards is .220". That is the best, not an average unfortunately......

 

For those shooting with the front globe sights, what method do you have for storing and protecting the inserts not in use? They seem rather fragile and i'd hate for any to get bent or broken.

 

These are probably some of the best inserts available.

http://www.champchoice.com/prod-CHAMPION_S_CHOICE_CLEAR_INSERT_SET__10___Sm_Dia_-677.aspx

Order for the make and size of your globe front sight. If your 1411has the original sights, it will need the Anschutz 18mm (small) inserts.

Being a complete set and a case, they are protected and unlikely to get lost. This will also give you a choice of aperture sizes for different target sizes.

 

Iron sight involve the following
- establish natural point of aim. When you are in position close the bolt and when you open your eyes are you aiming at the target? If not swivel your hips until you are aiming at the target. This is critical with irons and scope.
- sight alignment- center the bull in the front sight and the center the front sight in the rear aperture. If your stock has an adjustable cheek piece move it up and down until your eye is centered in the aperture
- Shot execution - load the rifle, align the sights, squeeze the trigger and follow through

Results
Shots that are low or high and centered- failure to align sights or you are lifting your head as you break the shot
Shots that are at 2, 4, 8, or 10 O'Clock - lifting your head and moving the rifle away from your face
Shots at 3 or 9 O'Clock - snapping the trigger

I love shooting iron sights and they will improve your scope shooting.

If you can attend a local prone match as this will help you progress. I also recommend an adjustable front and rear aperature for your rifle. If you are 35 plus a bloop tube will help as you are extending the sight radius. I work with a local eye doctor who allows me to bring in my rifles so that I can get lenses for my sight radius as your normal prescription may not be right for you sight radius.

Irons can be just as accurate as shooting scope if you are willing to invest the time and energy

Bill

 

Results
Shots that are low or high and centered- failure to align sights or you are lifting your head as you break the shot
Shots that are at 2, 4, 8, or 10 O'Clock - lifting your head and moving the rifle away from your face
Shots at 3 or 9 O'Clock - snapping the trigger

I have to say that these generalisations really do not work, there are just far two many reasons to be putting shots in a particular direction for this to be in any way meaningful. That is if you are putting lots of shots out in any one particular direction. Much better is to get a good coach, or at least an experienced shooter to watch what you are doing to pick up on your good or bad technique issues.

It's much easier to tell if someone is snatching the trigger and not following through by looking at them operate the trigger than from looking at a shot target.

Alan

 

Have used the plastic front aperature for shooting,

strongly recommend you obtain those.

Metal inserts are great but the "clutter" of the supports requires ignoring them, the plastic are better.

Differnt colors are available but then you have to remember what to use for where you are shooting. Clear give unlimited viability and when the target is looking it "blackest" , squeeze that trigger. Outdoor shooting some like to get smoke or yellow for more contrast.

Get use to shooting with them and ask a matches what other are using and why.

Champion's Choice & Champion Shooters Supply will help.

Suggest that you bracket the aperture size you are comfortable with with both a smaller and larger to give adjustment for conditions.

Good Luck!

 

Bench shooting is way different than position...

most don't touch the stock, just the trigger... I've actually taken to activating the trigger with my left forefinger (I'm hopelessly right handed).. the only touch on the rifle... but it's a 2 oz trigger... this would never work in position shooting, of course... you do have to put your eye in the same place every time though... and it's generally done w/a 36x or higher scope, although you can do it w/irons... placing your eye in the same place w/o touching the stock however is darn near impossible w/irons.