Just picked this up. Cannot wait to shoot it! Oh and I already found Larry's Guns on the net! So what ammo is the best to use in this? Any grain does it prefer? Also, can anyone tell me if the magazine release is reversible?
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SRV1
Sig Arms Trailside
Just picked this up. Cannot wait to shoot it! Oh and I already found Larry's Guns on the net! So what ammo is the best to use in this? Any grain does it prefer? Also, can anyone tell me if the magazine release is reversible?
Attachments
Any blowback gun should only use the least powerful ammo that reliably cycles the gun. My Trailside likes Standard Velocity ammo and I have a large supply of CCI Std Vel ammo that I feed it and all my other target 22LR pistols.
Since the gun is new to you, be aware that early versions suffered broken trigger guards. The problem was the trigger guard was used as the slide stop. The original Hammerli 208 design (this is an econo version of that gun) backed up the vertical stop portion of the trigger guard with the frame so the the guard did not have to absorb the recoil but only transmit it directly to the frame. Some early Trailside stopped the rotation of the guard into the gun frame short of the vertical leg touching the frame behind it. The pounding of the slide in recoil would break the unsupported trigger guard. Assure your gun has the guard hard against the frame behind it on the vertical leg of the guard. If not then modify the guard such that whatever is keeping the guard from full rotation is corrected. It is usually the horizontal front leg of the guard hitting the bottom of the frame. Simple make sure there is clearance between the front horizontal guard leg and the bottom of the frame. That should allow the guard more rotation into the frame behind the vertical leg. Only modify the trigger guard, not the frame of the gun, if necessary. Later guns and the newest version, the XESSES, do not appear to have this problem.
LDBennett
Since the gun is new to you, be aware that early versions suffered broken trigger guards. The problem was the trigger guard was used as the slide stop. The original Hammerli 208 design (this is an econo version of that gun) backed up the vertical stop portion of the trigger guard with the frame so the the guard did not have to absorb the recoil but only transmit it directly to the frame. Some early Trailside stopped the rotation of the guard into the gun frame short of the vertical leg touching the frame behind it. The pounding of the slide in recoil would break the unsupported trigger guard. Assure your gun has the guard hard against the frame behind it on the vertical leg of the guard. If not then modify the guard such that whatever is keeping the guard from full rotation is corrected. It is usually the horizontal front leg of the guard hitting the bottom of the frame. Simple make sure there is clearance between the front horizontal guard leg and the bottom of the frame. That should allow the guard more rotation into the frame behind the vertical leg. Only modify the trigger guard, not the frame of the gun, if necessary. Later guns and the newest version, the XESSES, do not appear to have this problem.
LDBennett
My Trailside was the first 22 pistol I bought, several years ago. Mine has the short barrel, and makes me seem like a much better pistol shooter than I really am. In those days, I just shot whatever 22 ammo I had on hand, so I have no advice on ammo brand or type. I do remember it shot everything I put in it.
You're going to like that gun. Since you already found Larry's Guns, you might as well pick up another magazine for it.
If you post another pic, turn those medallions over so we can all see the factory target. And why are there two in the box?
You're going to like that gun. Since you already found Larry's Guns, you might as well pick up another magazine for it.
If you post another pic, turn those medallions over so we can all see the factory target. And why are there two in the box?
Since this is a used gun (??) It may be the cursed "previous owner's" attempts to reduce the trigger pull. The hammer spring may be the culprit but test the gun again at the range and be sure the bolt is fully closed with every shot. If you still have light strikes clean the barrel, inspecting for a buildup of lead just in front of the chamber inside the barrel. The chamber area might also be dirty resisting the entrance of the feeding cartridge, leaving the bolt slightly open such that the cartridge is not fully seated. Also look for a firing pin burr on the breech face of the barrel. That too can resist the cartridge's effort to seat in the chamber. Do not remove the burr physically but buy the Browned tool to iron the burr back in place to fill the hole left by the firing pin hammering on the breech face from dry firing.
It might also be the magazine. Theses magazines are plastic and the lips subject to wear or even distortion. If they misguide the rounds such that they bump into the edge of the chamber so hard that the bullet nose is distorted then the feeding cartridge may not be able to fully seat into the chamber, holding the bolt slightly open, and forcing the hammer strike to fully seat the cartridge. That robs energy from the firing pin strike...hence, light strikes. Try a new magazine.
Just to be clear on nomenclature, I have no idea what SIG calls the various springs in the gun but "Main Spring" is not universally understood. There is the hammer spring, the recoil spring, and the sear spring. Which is the main spring? I think you were referring to the hammer spring by my nomenclature. But in this case either spring, recoil of hammer, might be the culprit if either was changed by the previous owner. I suggest changing both for new correct springs if the above information does not solve your problem.
LDBennett
It might also be the magazine. Theses magazines are plastic and the lips subject to wear or even distortion. If they misguide the rounds such that they bump into the edge of the chamber so hard that the bullet nose is distorted then the feeding cartridge may not be able to fully seat into the chamber, holding the bolt slightly open, and forcing the hammer strike to fully seat the cartridge. That robs energy from the firing pin strike...hence, light strikes. Try a new magazine.
Just to be clear on nomenclature, I have no idea what SIG calls the various springs in the gun but "Main Spring" is not universally understood. There is the hammer spring, the recoil spring, and the sear spring. Which is the main spring? I think you were referring to the hammer spring by my nomenclature. But in this case either spring, recoil of hammer, might be the culprit if either was changed by the previous owner. I suggest changing both for new correct springs if the above information does not solve your problem.
LDBennett
Gun was fully cleaned. It is going into battery with no problems. I tried three brands of ammo and it did it on all three. Can you adjust the trigger pull on these?
Yes you can adjust the trigger pull but that has noting to do with light strikes. Review the instruction manual. The adjustment is done through the back of the frame with the grips off the gun. You can make the trigger pull into a two stage pull very easily or just a single stage pull.
Base on what you just said (the slide fully cycles every time) I'd replace the hammer spring.
But before you do that, first remove the firing pin, clean its channel in the slide and make sure the firing pin is not broken or the firing pin return spring is not messed up. That sounds like where the problem might be.
LDBennett
Base on what you just said (the slide fully cycles every time) I'd replace the hammer spring.
But before you do that, first remove the firing pin, clean its channel in the slide and make sure the firing pin is not broken or the firing pin return spring is not messed up. That sounds like where the problem might be.
LDBennett
Looking at the attached picture, two screws and one spring control the the trigger force , over travel, and creep. Also the unadjustable trigger return spring plays into the feel of the trigger. For reference:
#11 is the trigger
#12 is the trigger return spring (fixed, non-adjustable)
#6 is the sear
#5 is the sear spring
#13 is the disconnector and trigger connector bar to the sear
#17 set the initial position of the trigger and if backed out becomes a way to add a second stage
#16 is the over travel and final stage adjustment
If you want a second stage you back #17 up into the frame, allowing the trigger to have to travel farther until the hammer drops.
#16 is a unique device. It is a set screw with a spring loaded ball that can touch the back of the trigger. It is adjusted through the back of the frame.
For a two stage trigger adjust #17 to the amount of travel you want in the trigger for the first stage.
When the trigger travels to touching #16, #16 can be adjusted to increase the pull level for the second stage. The effect is a longer first stage until you reach a slight increase in pull level, continue through the second stage to let off. There has to be a compromise between the force for the second stage, the length of the second stage and the over travel of the trigger. It is not a true adjustable two stage but it works like one, within reason.
The first stage of a two stage removes all of the creep and sets up the hammer to fall with a slight increase in the pull level where the trigger is depressing the ball in #16 against its internal spring. Two stage triggers are infinitely safer than any single stage because you have maximum sear engagement.
If you want a single stage you adjust #17 to move back the trigger statically to be much closer to #16. If you adjust #16 so that the hammer falls before the trigger hits #16 then you have a light single stage with an over travel limiter. Be careful here as you have removed most of the creep (sear engagement) and a tiny knock might just make the hammer fall. Too light of a single stage trigger with little to no creep is dangerous.
Hope this helps. Let us know what you find with the firing pin and the cavity it lives in and the spring inside that cavity. Don't remove that spring. These guns have inertia firing pins and the spring has to be there to make the firing pin retract for smooth feeding of ammo out of the magazine and for safety to allow the hammer to rest on the end of the firing pin without it extending out of the slide's breech face. The firing pin is hit and continues forward by inertia then retracts.
LDBennett
#11 is the trigger
#12 is the trigger return spring (fixed, non-adjustable)
#6 is the sear
#5 is the sear spring
#13 is the disconnector and trigger connector bar to the sear
#17 set the initial position of the trigger and if backed out becomes a way to add a second stage
#16 is the over travel and final stage adjustment
If you want a second stage you back #17 up into the frame, allowing the trigger to have to travel farther until the hammer drops.
#16 is a unique device. It is a set screw with a spring loaded ball that can touch the back of the trigger. It is adjusted through the back of the frame.
For a two stage trigger adjust #17 to the amount of travel you want in the trigger for the first stage.
When the trigger travels to touching #16, #16 can be adjusted to increase the pull level for the second stage. The effect is a longer first stage until you reach a slight increase in pull level, continue through the second stage to let off. There has to be a compromise between the force for the second stage, the length of the second stage and the over travel of the trigger. It is not a true adjustable two stage but it works like one, within reason.
The first stage of a two stage removes all of the creep and sets up the hammer to fall with a slight increase in the pull level where the trigger is depressing the ball in #16 against its internal spring. Two stage triggers are infinitely safer than any single stage because you have maximum sear engagement.
If you want a single stage you adjust #17 to move back the trigger statically to be much closer to #16. If you adjust #16 so that the hammer falls before the trigger hits #16 then you have a light single stage with an over travel limiter. Be careful here as you have removed most of the creep (sear engagement) and a tiny knock might just make the hammer fall. Too light of a single stage trigger with little to no creep is dangerous.
Hope this helps. Let us know what you find with the firing pin and the cavity it lives in and the spring inside that cavity. Don't remove that spring. These guns have inertia firing pins and the spring has to be there to make the firing pin retract for smooth feeding of ammo out of the magazine and for safety to allow the hammer to rest on the end of the firing pin without it extending out of the slide's breech face. The firing pin is hit and continues forward by inertia then retracts.
LDBennett
Nice pistol! I have a 4" model and it is very fun to shoot.
For ammo, I believe the manual says only standard velocity stuff. No high velocity and no hyper stuff either.
I can't remember where I saw / read it, but if I recall correctly, the notches on the extractor mean it is an early model. The "second gens" are smooth.
Definitely check for the trigger guard contact as LDB said.
For ammo, I believe the manual says only standard velocity stuff. No high velocity and no hyper stuff either.
I can't remember where I saw / read it, but if I recall correctly, the notches on the extractor mean it is an early model. The "second gens" are smooth.
Definitely check for the trigger guard contact as LDB said.
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