I'm assuming you have the trigger out of the gun. Lay it on your bench over a hole or something to give the pin room to come out. Jam something solid (I used a large screwdriver) between the legs of the trigger near the pin so they won't bend or break while you're pounding on it, and just use a punch to drive the pin out the same as if it were a regular pin. It doesn't take a great deal of pounding to overcome the peened part of the pin, it's pretty thin. A third hand helps to hold everything while you're pounding, but it isn't a must.

 

To reinstall, just treat it like a regular pin. Re-peening isn't necessary in my experience.

 

Jez thats over kill!! And a good way to break it . Grind the peened over pin, on one end, with a dremel tool cut off wheel, or stone, it will tap right out. Much safer

 

Suppose you put the piece down on the side, getting ready to punch the pin out. It's the upper leg that needs support, not the bottom one.
I'd put up two blocks of wood about 1/4 inch apart, put the pin in a plier and lay the plier over the wood. The plier should support the upper leg, with the other leg free between the blocks.

Or, leave it in the gun. The receiver and a shim will support the leg enough for you to punch the pin out.

 

I remove the trigger and drift out the pin by supporting the inside lip with the side edge of a shop vise. The side edge of my vise is the same thickness as the distance between the 2 inside lips of the forward trigger pin. You only need to support the inside edge of the side of the trigger that you are drifting out.

 

Dwight, I use clear fingernail polish on both ends of all pins that need retaining. It sticks good when dry.

 

Poof, as with many simple tasks, it takes longer to tell about it than it does to do it. I'll have that pin out before you get your dremel tool plugged in. As for breaking it, with the setup I explained you could run over the whole thing with a steam roller and not damage anything.

 

Desert Pete.....

The only problem with your description, you mispelled Tap
I do it just like everybody else, Cept Different. I use a pair of vise grips to hold the trigger assembly.....BTW, the pliers are not tight on the pin. I put the Pliers in the vise as a Third hand like Desert Pete was talking about, or Sumphen like that. The vise alone would work, but the jaws are to wide. Use a small punch, nail, or awl.....and Pound the crap out of it.
If the Trigger assembly shoulder is resting on something solid, two light taps is all it takes.....
Oil Well, Here's Two Thousand words to Describe it .

 

Thanks to everyone for your advice on removing the pin.

 

I really need to do a better job explaining the process of removing the peened pin.

I remove the pin with the trigger still in the gun. That cuts out removing the sear and having to chase the ball. So far I have never removed the sear from my gun.

To the best of my memory I put the action on a folded canvas tarp and put a piece of wood under the trigger. A few whacks with a mallet and punch got the front pin out. After that I put the tube in the gap where the front trigger pin went, threaded the pin through it and back into the trigger. I did not hit it with nailpolish (good idea) or loctite (not such a good idea).

Maybe I was a bit crazy to do it that way but it worked.

 

Brookie.....

You do it just like me, Cept Different

 

Thanks brookie, that is the way i had hoped i could do it. Removing the entire trigger means extra work with the tricky ball and spring to deal with.

 

Question for Brookie

Brookie, are the tubes you sell oversize for the pin? Do they flop around when installed? The tubes I use fit tightly and do not spin. I think we discussed this long ago. I use either 1/8" OD brass tubing or 5/32" OD copper tubing. I then use a needle file to open the tubes inner diameter a bit so the trigger pin will fit tightly into the tube without deforming the tube when I drive the pin thru the tube.

 

The tubes I make are loose over the front trigger pin.

What do you think the advantages of a tight pin might be?

 

No wiggle room?

I do not know of any advantages, both seem to get the job done of shortening or eliminating creep and that's what counts. I am not competing with you as I do not sell kits. I have done several of my local buddies CZ's and 6 of mine with the tight tube and the reduced to 11 coils Ace HW #150 spring. My last Ultra Lux trigger job yesterday was 8 oz. with minimal creep and took about 20 minutes with removal and reinstall of the sear steel ball bearing.

 

Brookie : There is one possibility with the loose tube. I used your tube with silicone rubber glue. Actually, I was trying to make it an eccentric pin - thicker on the receiver side to further reduces creep, but thinner on the sear side otherwise the trigger stops too early. The silicone prevented the tube turning around the pin, but the whole pin can still turn.

 

Great minds think alike!

I tried that (silicone and all) with the hope of eliminating overtravel. Ultimately the assembly rotated and prevented the trigger from engaging.

With that sort of setup I think something would be needed to keep the tube from moving.

 

Spring Loaded Center Punch

I used one of these to punch out the trigger pins. Worked great! No hammer needed!

Automatic Center Punch

 

Man, when they're clean and purdy, they look like a sabot round the M1 Abram's shoots.
Oil Well, Mine's so grubby, it just looks like a regular 'ole
auto-center punch.

 

Trigger work

Thanks to you guys for all the tips and thanks to Brookie for the trigger kit. I just used mine and it is amazingly simple. I used the thinest shim and the second lightest spring. I don't know what the pull is but it's not much and it is very crisp. It will however fire if bumped sharply on a rubber mat I have on my shop floor. I don't see this as a problem at the range and the way I squirrel hunt it shouldn't be a problem there either.

 

Squirrel Hunter.....

Duh,.....Are you telling us, that when your Squirrel hunting,
you don't regularly bump your stock on the ground

 

bump my gun?

Why would I bump my gun on the ground? I keep it slung on my shoulder till I find a spot I want to watch for a while then I sit down and place the gun in my homemade bipod and maybe shoot squirrels for a while. I wouldn't anymore think of bumping my gun on the ground than I would bump my head agin a tree.

 

dude!

that trigger is UNSAFE!! they shouldn't allow you at the range with that gun. What happens when you tap it against the ground and then hit the bench with it when you go to put the gun on the bench and a round goes sailing into the clubhouse?! Think man! THINK!
Joe

 

Re: dude!

<snip> What happens when you tap it against the ground and then hit the bench with it when you go to put the gun on the bench and a round goes sailing into the clubhouse?! Think man! THINK!
Joe

Joe, I would think the generally accepted safety practice of not loading your weapon until it is pointed down range would prevent that.
Though I personally would want to stop it from "bump" firing.
Paul

 

clubhouse? What clubhouse? "We don't need no stinking clubhouse." Besides I would never chamber a round in an enviornment like that until the gun was pointed down range. Anyone who would should be kicked off the range.
I may eventually try to fix it though. What would you suggest thinning the shim or replacing the spring with a heavyer one?