I usually tap mine with a rubber mallet. Some of these can be extremely tight, so sometimes it takes a bit of a tap to break it loose. They don't usually have to be pushed all the way in to remove the barrel, but the button does have a limit as to how far it goes. I think the angle was used because if you hold the barrel in your hand and slide your thumb down to the button, your thumb is at kind of an angle to match the button. I'm sure that's as clear as mud. I don't know this as fact, it just seems natural to me. BUT, I do agree it seems like it would be easier if the angle was not as severe.

 

Push Button

I was told by Bob Shea to never tap the TD button- I use a plastic hammer and it is needed !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

I was told by Bob Shea to never tap the TD button- I use a plastic hammer and it is needed !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Then are you saying that this Bob Shea, did not know what he was talking about ?

Thanks.

 

TD Plunger

They say to never hit them with a hammer- I use a plastic hammer to break them loose and you need to- some are so tight that it seems as they are one piece

 

Yes you often need to whack the take down. They can be quite tight. Regular hammer, no. Plastic or wooden, ok. I usually press the button firmly down on the surface at the edge of my bench. Keep pressing the frame down while lifting or replacing the barrel. Some can be rather stubborn to wiggle free.

With the barrel off look to see where the takedown keyhole position will be most accessible for the stud. Keep that in mind when you put a barrel back. Also note the travel forward of the plunger indicating the keyhole-stud engagement. THere is an ideal range. The different plunger "sizes" that SGVictor has mentioned are very important for a good barrel fit.

I tried 3 different Houston plungers on a couple Hamden pistols. Not one accepted a Ct barrel. I had to scrounge for different "size" originals. That said, most Ct. plunger-stud-frame tolerance stacks will work. But not always.

 

yes i have hit or tapped it with a plastic hamer and it gets tighter the more you shoot it so if you do not shoot it alot then it will take down easy but the more you shoot it between cleanings it will get really tight and plastic hammer will be required and it does not hurt the finish. i have had to do this on alot of mine otherwise place against a hard wood surface and push that will work too but i think the plastic hammer is the best way.

 

The fit of the barrel to the button parts is tapered. As you shoot the gun, the parts engage farther and farther locking the barrel more firmly to the frame. Nothing short of a rap with a plastic punch and a hammer will loosen the tightness of the fit. The rap resets the mechanism and a steady push with the finger or thumb will then release the barrel but the spring behind the button is stout and takes a pretty good push.

Some owners first rap the button then push the edge of a table top against the button while they remove the barrel. Yes, it can slip so be careful.

The contrast of this take down design compared to the original lever take down Supermatics is stark. Those guns had machined rails in the frame and on the barrel that made the barrel slide on to the frame with the lever latch to secure it. Removal was super easy yet the fit and security of the fit were excellent. But that method of securing the barrel to the frame was expensive to machine compared to the button takedown. The last Hi Std version did away with the latching mechanisms all together and went to a screw like a Browning Buckmark or a S&W Model 22 A/S. I prefer the lever version but the angularity of the Military Grip. I guess you can't have it all.

LDBennett