Hi there, if you're talking about a bridge mount yes it should be accurate and maintain alignment...they just look kind of clunky, to my eye anyway.

Hammerli Arms Forge H1 22LR. In stock.

Regards,

Frank

 

Yes something like that! I've printed similar mounts for airguns... On semi auto doesn't it get in the way of the ejector ??

 

Kind of?.....

 

I have a similar system on my Umarex airgun (SA 10), with a Chinese red dot, just a bit more oblique.
I found some ideas on Thingiverse then modified the design to fit my measures and my needs.
It has been a bit weird the first times, but I had much better results compared to sights.
The dot feels high and quite forward compared to what I'd like...
Maybe my dot is quite bulky and my mount a bit bigger than the minimum necessary size, but a smaller red dot mounted replacing the rear sight would surely be better...

 

Needs must Huntsman, needs must

 

Not if properly designed. Another thought since your H1 accepts any 1911 Colt grips is something like this:

Before we continue

Frank

 

This would be better for permanent mount, but maybe a bit ugly if you temporarily remove the dot and leave the empty rail...
The other way you just remove the dot with the mount too from the rail and the gun is back to normal...

 

In the meanwhile I tried positioning my airgun red dot bracket mount on the pistol.

It's quite higher so I can modify the design to be a bit shorter, but anyway current design is too oblique and stays almost over the ejection port...

Anyway the brass should exit when the slide is going back so I'm not sure it could be a problem... Anyway I plan to modify the design to be more vertical on the front and with a longer upper rail over the slide (but this would be less stable), or with a "left only" bracket (don't like it much)...

Any ideas on this? Is there a way to estimate "how much you need to leave" for correct ejection on the right side?

EDIT: just noticed that also the SIG Sauer mount posted above seems to be partially covering the ejection port ..

 

Since the slide is removed from the frame by lifting it from the rear and moving it forward, I don’t think it will clear either pictured mount. It would be a pain having to remove the mount every time you want to take the pistol down for cleaning, then having to re-zero the optic.

 

My idea was to zero the optic once, then align the mount to something (like align the beginning of the mount to the beginning of the rail), and the next time mount without zeroing.

I've read that some people having buckmarks do the same to clean the gun, they remove the rail with the dot on it then align it again without zeroing...

Would it be a too bad idea?