Congratulations on your new to you Ruger RAR. My first rifle chambered for .22 Magnum was a new Winchester Model 61 pump that I bought in 1965. Sure wish I still owned that one. Many many years later I bought my blued steel Ruger American in .22 mag. Mine is the longer 22 inch barrel model. I wanted the compact model but couldn't find one at the gunshow where I bought mine. I followed just about the same path you did in lightening the trigger pull on mine, and I'm extremely happy with it for being a lower cost rifle. I would like to have a stainless steel compact model, but mine shoots so well that I don't want to roll the dice on a new one.

 

I've been watching the classifieds and looking at new scopes but have to watch the wallet too.
I was over in Prescott a few days ago and one shop had about a dozen used scopes. I bought a new looking Nikon 3-9x Prostaff Rimfire with BDC for well under $100 and got it mounted on the American WMR.
Clear glass and the adjustments are very solid and precise feeling. Much more so than any of the other scopes in the $100-$200 range I've used.
I pulled up the Nikon Spot On app and now I know the (approximate) holdovers for out to 224 yards using the CCI Maxi JHP. You always have to check those yardages at the range as well, but the holdover numbers they give are usually very close.


We have some rain and cold coming in later this week so I hope to get out before then and shoot some more groups.

 

I really like those Nikon Prostaff scopes. I have a 3-9x40 on my Sako Quad and really love it. My Ruger American .22 magnum wears a Leupold 4.5-14x40 Vari X III with AO that I bought used probably 8-10 years ago.

 

The Prostaff 3-9x was a nice upgrade over the 4x I first put on the RAR. I shot some more the other day before this winter front hit us.
I shoot on forest service land about 5 miles from my house. There is a circular valley where most of the serious long range shooters go. Like me, they have nice targets and don't leave trash.
But the other day an old guy I've never seen before had decided to set up and shoot crossways across the valley, firing across the access road. On the way in, I had to stop and make sure the dude saw me before I could continue.

I went up to see where he was shooting, and I told him that shooting over the numbered USFS road was not cool. Not only was it illegal and unsafe, but whereas with co-operation, 4 or 5 groups could safely shoot in the valley, but the direction he was shooting left little other options for another group.
He shrugged and went back to shooting. leaving me with only one direction to safely shoot, setting up my target frame in tall grass and shooting almost directly into the sun.
Not happy with all the new guys moving in here with no respect or courtesy, most of them are flocking here from California. Sorry, rant over.

I removed the paint from the barrel and action that the previous owner had done. I was surprised how nice the bluing on the barrel was, really deep. I'll leave the stock painted, it'll get re-done in tan once this humid weather leaves.
I didn't mind having the short stock module in there, but seeing the RAR next to my other rimfires in the rack made my realize that the LOP was way shorter than even the little Browning BL-22.
So I put the long module in, it is the low comb one. The high comb just doesn't feel right. Maybe it would if my scope was mounted higher.

Yesterday I got the Talley ring/base combo I had ordered, and mounted the Nikon with them.
I had a brain malfunction when I ordered and punched in #930758 which are the low set, while I had meant to order the #940758, medium rings. I sent an email to Optics Planet, but 3 days later they didn't see it and shipped me the low ones anyway.
The low set works fine and the 40mm objective clears, but I had to remove the rear sight to do it.
I would have preferred the mediums so I could leave the rear sight in place, but it's not that big of a deal for me to want to exchange the rings.

Before I got the Talleys I had to look through several sets of dovetail rings in my parts drawers to find ones that fit the dovetail better. Some rings seem to barely be hanging on.
I do prefer to use the mounting holes over the dovetail clamps.

Weaver #12 bases work, but I'm not thrilled with Weaver bases and rings.
DNZ makes a solid one piece base with attached rings, but is on the verge of overkill, weighing at around 6 ounces.


The Talleys are lightweight Aluminum, maybe too lightweight for some.
The low Talleys are 1.6 oz., mediums are 1.7 oz. and the highs are 1.8 ounces, that is for the pair.
They can be reversed, both facing the same way or opposite so as to move the scope further back or forward.
(The DNZ can't be moved or adjusted, what you have is what you get).

I could see the benefit of a long Picatinny rail if I planned on swapping optics down the road, or wanted to mount a big 6.5-20x target scope.
But for the smaller scopes I use on a hunting/field rifle, the simplicity and lightweight of the Talley is what I like.
No attachment between rings and base to come loose, and no worries of poor tip off ring fit to receiver grooves.
I have the same scope mounts on my 10/22 International.

 

I'm ery impressed with these, especially considering the price. I have the American Farmer Tribute model (Ithink that's what they call it) also with Talley rings, and a 2.5x scope - 50 yars is a long shoot around my house, and it's my "big varmint" gun.

 

Love mine. Got the plain old black 22” RAR on Closeout at Cabelas new for $199 a few years back. Lightened my trigger to about a pound and took it to the range. First six shot group I tested it with at 100 yards was with hornady vmax ammo. It shot .323”! The Winchester 2250 fps varmint ammo, 6 shot 100 group test was next. It shot .689”! They sure are tac drivers. My favorite, most accurate,…and cheapest rimfire!

 

I got out today and tried the same 3 loads I have with 15 in. lbs. on both action screws.
Last time out it was at 25 in. lbs. and the CCI Maxi 40gr. HP did best.

At 15, the Hornady 45 FTX and the CCI 30 gr. (2250 fps) did best.
Next time I'll try 20 inch pounds.
Factory recommended torque is 35 in.lbs. but my guns always shoot better at a lower torque.

I repainted the stock better, and decided to spray the stock modules in a different color. I takes forever to dry with the cold and hunid weather we've been having.

 

I never checked my inch pounds I just tightened it by hand. I’m sure I’m probably way under specs but it sure shoots lights out that way. I tried both of the ammos that you have above and they didn’t group as good is the 30 grain Vmax or the Winchester 2250 fps tipped varmint ammo. I tell you to find some 30 grain Vmax and try it. I bet it’ll shoot tighter than both of them above. For some reason the Ruger 22WMR Americans all shoot good with it that I’ve seen all shooting a third of an inch group and 100 yards I’ve seen four of them do that now.

 

The bottom target was shot with the CCI Varmint 30 gr. V-Max (2250 fps.) They do well but the Hornady 45 gr. FTX outshot it today. I had a flyer with the 3o gr, V-Max and didn't call it, so maybe the round was at fault.
Since I'm not blasting ground squirrels and prairie dogs here like I was in Montana, I'll probably stick with 40 or 50 grain loads.
I'll be able to get the heavier ones to shoot good too, it will just take some experimentation with the stock screw tension.

 

Yeah, for some reason, the CCI rounds with the Vmax shot a lot bigger groups than the hornady branded vmax in my gun. I’m guessing they use different powders.

 

Hornady was my favorite in the .17 HMR, better than other brands, so I'll try to get some of their version of the V-Max.
They make the V-max bullets, so maybe Hornady loads the ammo for CCI and puts their headstamp on?

 

If they do, they definitely use different powder and, or, a different charge Because they don’t group anywhere near the same in my gun.

 

First RAR I bought as soon as it hit the LGS, knock around rifle of so-so accuracy but plenty good for Ground Hog and such to 100 yards plus or minus.

Basically a 1.25 MOA to 1.5 MOA rifle with the 30-33 gr Vmax loads from CCI/Hornady/Remington. Drops GH dead in their tracks on the average.

 

I put a GoWild burnt bronze version in a Boyds stock and really like it.

 

I bought one the day my dealer got them in very shortly after origional release. Unfortunately they did. It have the compacts. So before ever even firing it, I lopped the barrel off a little over 17.25". My thoughts was Id have room ta prune a few times looking for a harmonics accuracy mode. But I lucked in right out the gate!! This thing flat shot better then any. I mean ANY 22 Mag I owned or shot. That includes some hi dollar rifles too!! Almost all ammo shot 1 to 1.25" @ 100 by itself is more accurate then most!!
Anyhow I decided to buy a supressor and started to have barrels threaded. I had a buddy drop this one off with written instructions NOT TO CUT OR RE CROWN. Well you know what happened. Smith made comments about the face of the barrels looks and how he made a wonderful yada yada 11° who ha some such... I asked if he shot it and said I had expressly requested NOT TO TOUCH the muzzle. As this rifle was already a shooter.
That was three years back and I am still fiddling trying to achieve the accuracy this rifle had.

This rifle wears a HAWKE Vantage 4-12 22 mag specfic optic in Burris rings. I am using the 3/8 groove as bases got the scope too high. I have since been using many Talley sets but didnt think ta look if they offered a set for the RF.
CW

 

That was three years back and I am still fiddling trying to achieve the accuracy this rifle had.

Historically, many rifles of the past were only rifled for the last several inches of barrel. Apparently they shot just fine for accuracy. I have a couple shotguns with rifled and smoothbore barrels, and I use a rifled choke to to spin Foster and sabot slugs in the smooth bore tubes. Using the iron sights the Foster slugs, (Federal Truball, and Winchester), and a couple different versions of sabot slugs, (Federal Power Shok and Remington Buckhammer), are just as accurate from both barrels at 50yds. The fully rifled barrel with sabot's win at 100yds, probably an effect of slug design.

Reading gun and ammo related magazines since Jack O'Connor was King, I've often encountered statements to the effect that the forward couple inches of the barrel drive the results for accuracy.
The gunsmith owes you a new rifle. Or, you could recrown, or cut another half inch off and try again. Might be something with the crown. ??

 

The man passed two years ago... It shoots good, only I know that It shot better.
Working on making my ol' 782 shoot now.
I just pillar bedded the stock. Tomorrow Ill start glass bedding it.
CW