Cleaning port. Picture from google. Yes the stock needs to be removed to see/use the port. W/O the port, there is no good way to clean the barrel, from the breech end, with a rigid cleaning rod.

 

I would use the lowest scope rings I could, but since you have a cheek riser and want to practice for the AR, you could use a one piece, AR type mount.

For rimfire AR, I use Aero Precision Ultra Light mount. You can get them in 1" or 30mm.

Ultralight 1" Scope Mount, SPR - Anodized Black

Shop Ultralight 1" Scope Mount, SPR - Anodized Black and more online at aeroprecisionusa.com. Free shipping on all orders over $99.

www.aeroprecisionusa.com

 

I bought a used Delta Stryker 1-6x24 that came with a tan Aero one piece canted mount that I took off. Perhaps I'll try out that mount on the Swampfox and see how works.

 

I couldn't decide which scope mount to get, so I cheaped out and got an Athlon Cantilever mount from Amazon for $60. I just mounted a Burris XTR III 3.5-18x50 on mine. I hope to get it to the range tomorrow to sight it in.

Amazon.com

I shot my competition model at an Appleseed 25m event last weekend using a Burris RT-6 (1-6x24) scope and it was awesome. That scope is in an American Defense Delta cantilever mount. Very solid, and a great match for the rifle.

 

This used Aero mount should get me started. I'm not sure how it will work out. At least I'll have a point of reference if I want to change things. Flat black paint might make it look a little more presentable. Has anyone else painted a mount? How did it work out?

I found another picture online of the cleaning port. The rear mounting tang needs to be removed to access the port. This leaves me with mixed feelings. Aluminum receiver with a screw that is repeatedly removed and replaced seems like a recipe for disaster. It doesn't seem like the most robust setup. Only time will tell.

Speaking of that rear tang. After poking around a bit, it appears stock options will be very limited. A custom creation seems like the only option. This isn't a big deal for me at the moment. This will be a work horse / training rifle that I'll leave alone for now. I'm just mentioning this for others that might be thinking about this rifle.

I gave this rifle a quick once-over at my ffl while doing my paperwork. At the end of the day, it still just a 10/22. Is it worth the premium I paid? Maybe, time will tell. That said, I'm looking forward to taking it out once it gets out of jail.

 

Is there a generally accepted starting point for mounting a scope? I'm talking about the back of the LPVO to where the eye should be. On my AR's, I used the charging handle for a starting point. I won't have any range time for a few days at least.

 

In my mind, absolutely not, it’s dependent on your optic/rifle/eye. Ryan Cleckner says so. Skip to around 2.5 minutes into the video.

Rifle looks great, by the way!

 

It will be different for everybody, but not by a whole lot. It’s probably more scope dependent based on eye relief specs and other things.

But, with that said, here’s where mine ended up for me. The scope is a Burris RT-6, which is a nice match for the 10/22. I set it up for an Appleseed 25 meter event.

 

If you’ll be shooting from prone you’ll want the scope further forward. The back of my scopes are generally very close to even with the back of the receiver, not including any extra tang you might have.
It‘s easier to scooch forward and get closer to the scope than it is to pull away from it when you go prone.

 

Nice looking set ups. I have a question, maybe stupid but what does "30 MOA" refer to when used in the context of a mount? I know what MOA is but how does it apply to a mount? Only thing I can guess is elevation/rise from the bore?

 

20 MOA Explained

There are many misconceptions in the world about what a 20MOA base does. Many of those misconceptions stem from perceptions about what a 20MOA base is capable of providing, and when it is needed on a rifle. Many shooters who want to shoot long range automatically assume they need a 20MOA...

warnescopemounts.com

 

OK, given that I don't even shoot my ARs past 100 yds, this seems unnecessary on a 22...

 

I agree, but different strokes for different folks I guess. I.E. Some people DO shoot their .22’s out to longer ranges (2, 3, 4, 500 yards, etc.)

 

I finally had a chance to take it to my indoor range. ~22 yd max I believe~ I wanted to get the swampfox LPVO reasonably close before taking it to my outdoor range. I had bought four different brands of bulk ammo to try out. Fed. Auto Match, Win. Wildcat, Blazer-CCI, Rem. Golden Bullets. I also have more older bulk boxes of Feds., Win., and Rem Thunderbolts. I decided to use an older box of Fed. Auto Match.

I also had a six pack of BX-1's I picked up. Seven mags total. The first few mags ran flawlessly. Then, one mag had two failure to even grab another round to feed. Then I started getting random failures to grab the spent round and eject it. I was also getting random failure to fires. A couple I reloaded into the mags and they fired. A couple had two strikes with nothing. I should have just stuck to the original mag that came with the rifle. I could have eliminated mag issues from the equation.

This is my first time using Federal 22lr ammo. This is my first 10-22 and I haven't even used a 22 rifle in ages. I'll use one of my handguns on occasion, but rarely. So I don't have much experience here. I've always had good luck with other Fed. ammo. Are the 22lr known for bad ammo? Perhaps my rifle just doesn't like it. Either way, I have about 350+ rounds left in this box plus another 500 in the newer box. These might be going into the give away-plinking spot in the ammo rack. I'm no sharp shooter, so I'm not so much concerned with groups. Reliability is what I'm after.

I'm thinking the failure to grab a round is a mag spring that might need adjusting. I've read a few post about doing this. I might break them down and give them a good cleaning and make sure they're all adjusted the same. Well, that is when I find that elusive extra time everyone is always looking for.

Failure to grab the spent round. I'm not sure what I should look for here. In all honesty, I haven't really searched for an answer yet. It may be something simple. Time for some research I guess.

First time out and I'm happy with it so far. Even with the issues.

 

In my mind, absolutely not, it’s dependent on your optic/rifle/eye. Ryan Cleckner says so. Skip to around 2.5 minutes into the video.

Rifle looks great, by the way!

Thanks for the video link and the comments.

If you’ll be shooting from prone you’ll want the scope further forward. The back of my scopes are generally very close to even with the back of the receiver, not including any extra tang you might have.
It‘s easier to scooch forward and get closer to the scope than it is to pull away from it when you go prone.

Initally, this is a training rifle to help me to learn to shoot while standing and moving. That said, eventually, it will probably just be used for range / plinking. I've never given much thought about shooting prone. Perhaps I'll need to start looking for a nice padded mat and give this a try. Thanks for your insight.

OK, given that I don't even shoot my ARs past 100 yds, this seems unnecessary on a 22...

The way I understand it, It allows for more usable adjustment on the optics. I assume to help with long range shooting. For a competition / long range shooters, I can see the benefit, just not much for me. That said, this is all new to me and I might be wrong.

 

You also want to get yourself a loop sling and start learning to shoot with that. Lots of fun, and the 10/22 is a great rifle for it.

 

I swapped out my original scope(s) and am on my 3rd for this rifle, this is the one I’ll keep. The Burris 3.3-18x was a front focal plane, I wanted a second focal plane scope for this rifle so I switched to a Vortex LHT 3-15x and dropped it into a Boyds At-One stock. It fits the competition model perfectly, and, well, purple…