Personally I usually nestle it into a heavy fill pint size gamechanger resting on something. 80yrd hits on a three inch plate are pretty easy. I really don't shoot pistol offhand these days. Actually I haven't shot any of my pistols in close to a year.

 

I'm no bullseye shooter, but I do ok in the accuracy department, so I'll offer some thoughts. FWIW, YMMV, etc

First, if your "wobble" is within the black bullseye, all your shots should land in the black. If they're not, and you've got a reasonably accurate pistol & ammo, it's likely you've got a trigger control or flinching issue. These latter issues are often rooted in our heads - trying to time the shot, trying too hard, mental focus on the goal of shooting a tight group instead of the process of executing the shot (1 shot at a time). Try to keep your focus (visual and mental) on your sights (or the dot) and not the target. IOW, don't peek at the target between shots - it's a real accuracy killer. The target is merely a recording device - it's recording how well you executed the shots. You can check it after you shoot (and it should just tell you what you already know).

As far as a grip & hold, I personally use a firm (but not death grip) 2-handed thumbs-forward (and thumbs off) grip, slightly leaning forward, with arms not quite locked out.

If it's just you shooting for the best group, remember that you're under no time constraints, so don't shoot too quickly. Most shoot "groups" much too quickly, IMO. Take all the time you need. But...one can definitely hold too long. The solution is to lower the gun as soon as things aren't feeling "right" - when you're starting to get fatigued or you feel the wobble opening. Lower the gun (and your head), relax, take some deep breaths, clear your head, then try again. It might be after every shot, but who cares? When shooting for a tight group, I rarely get through a string of 5 shots without lowering the gun at some point. Maybe twice.

Finally, dry fire is your friend. You don't even have to pull the trigger - just hold the sight picture on a target and look. It'll build up your strength so your wobble zone will get smaller. Just as importantly, though, your mind will get used to seeing what it needs to see, so it'll execute a more relaxed shot.

 

I'm no bullseye shooter, but I do ok in the accuracy department, so I'll offer some thoughts. FWIW, YMMV, etc

First, if your "wobble" is within the black bullseye, all your shots should land in the black. If they're not, and you've got a reasonably accurate pistol & ammo, it's likely you've got a trigger control or flinching issue. These latter issues are often rooted in our heads - trying to time the shot, trying too hard, mental focus on the goal of shooting a tight group instead of the process of executing the shot (1 shot at a time). Try to keep your focus (visual and mental) on your sights (or the dot) and not the target. IOW, don't peek at the target between shots - it's a real accuracy killer. The target is merely a recording device - it's recording how well you executed the shots. You can check it after you shoot (and it should just tell you what you already know).

As far as a grip & hold, I personally use a firm (but not death grip) 2-handed thumbs-forward (and thumbs off) grip, slightly leaning forward, with arms not quite locked out.

If it's just you shooting for the best group, remember that you're under no time constraints, so don't shoot too quickly. Most shoot "groups" much too quickly, IMO. Take all the time you need. But...one can definitely hold too long. The solution is to lower the gun as soon as things aren't feeling "right" - when you're starting to get fatigued or you feel the wobble opening. Lower the gun (and your head), relax, take some deep breaths, clear your head, then try again. It might be after every shot, but who cares? When shooting for a tight group, I rarely get through a string of 5 shots without lowering the gun at some point. Maybe twice.

Finally, dry fire is your friend. You don't even have to pull the trigger - just hold the sight picture on a target and look. It'll build up your strength so your wobble zone will get smaller. Just as importantly, though, your mind will get used to seeing what it needs to see, so it'll execute a more relaxed shot.

Thanks, good input.

I learned to shoot in the Marines where calling your shots in a little logbook was part of the program, so I tend to do that automatically in my head. Probably also need to work on breath control since I sometimes realize I am needing to take a breath after a couple shots, instead of breathing and holding breath consistently. At this point, if I am really trying, I'm probably putting out 1.5 to 2 inch groups at 15 yards, sometimes a little better, sometimes a little worse.

 

Not a bullseye shooter but shoot offhand all the time. For a field or range rest build yourself a shooting brace. I made one from ss tubing filled with elmers glue and no9 shot. It wraps around your forarm and wrist while locking behind your armpit. Not attached to the gun. Works good. Check out some of ‘Miculek’s videos.

 

I have found that the isosceles and modified Weaver stances both work well for accuracy and steadiness. There are actually quite a few ways to shoot accurately. What is trickier is to determine what is easily repeatable and potentially works well under stress.
I agree with TomB that it is a very good idea to relax and start again if you have had the pistol on target for too long.
I also agree with TomB that not flinching (or maybe more accurately) not anticipating the recoil and muzzle blast is very important. When anticipating the recoil most people unknowingly push the muzzle down and to the left just before they fire. They aren't even aware they are doing that and will insist that haven't done it. The best way to determine that is what is going on is to use dummy rounds randomly mixed in with live rounds. When the shooter comes to the dummy round there will be a pretty pronounced muzzle dip when they pull the trigger.

 

All good suggestions, only thing I’ll add is my shooting improved dramatically when I came to the realization that no one can keep the firearm steady. Plus the longer I take to aim my groups get larger.
Oh and don’t let go of the trigger till the bullet is well on its way.

my 2 cents, which you can just leave on the counter, like we all do.


Rich

 

The single best thing you’ll ever do to settle the wobble is shoot a lot. Upper body strength is required to become a steady, accurate shooter. Also, get a consistent, repeatable stance and grip. I use the Isosceles stance and hold the gun with two thumbs forward. If right handed, the left thumb should be against the frame. I’ve shot handguns in competition for fifty years. Back when I was at the top of my game, I was shooting over 30K rounds a year just with the handgun. You don’t have to fire that many rounds, dry firing will develop the upper body strength simply by holding the gun out and practicing hold and trigger squeeze. You CAN hold a handgun steady if you put enough effort into it. There really isn’t a great shortcut to get past this.

 

If right handed, the left thumb should be against the frame. I’ve shot handguns in competition for fifty years. Back when I was at the top of my game, I was shooting over 30K rounds a year just with the handgun

@NoSecondBest obviously has lots of valuable and real-world experience. I'm curious about the "thumb against the frame" thing, though. I've heard it both ways, and I went with the thumbs-off grip, since logic told me a forward thumb doesn't do anything for grip, and if it's against the frame, it's just another thing that can affect the gun, and therefore just another thing that has to be done consistently. So, my logic was...if it's not helping, and can even hurt accuracy, why do it? I'm curious, then, what is the advantage of "thumb against"?

 

Lots of great advice here, but will add my $20 worth. Starting off by saying that i believe body position is as important as hand position... maybe even more so.
While i shoot handguns in competition very little these days, prefering offhand rifle competitions, much carries over in this realm.
Many stand straight up when addressing the target, but this is an instance where bad posture pays dividends. Offhand rifle shooting should be skelletal, with handguns requiring muscle involvement of the neck, shoulder and arms. So address the target, feet roughly shoulder width apart, then slouch, putting your torso weight on your pelvic bone. You know how when your tired and theres nothing to lean on or sit on... like that.
Arm position depends on what type of shooting. If its just you shooting for fun, rest the inside of your weak arm against your side with both arms bent. Your stance will change some with this hold, your body will turn about 45° away from the target.
If you are shooting competition, many will not allow your arm to be against your body, requiring both arms forward. In pistol silhouette i used the forward facing slouch, both arms out, but slightly bent at the elbow. For straigh or slant grips, as with most semiauto handguns, i use the push/pull method. Push away with the strong and pull back towards the body with the weak. Not so much pressure that you are doing an isometric exercise, but just enough to steady things. With revolvers i usually use a loose grip and let it rotate in my hand some.
Main thing is to try the suggestions provided by all of the posters and see what works best for you. When it comes to body position and hold you must find what suits you physically and mentally. Good luck and happy shooting.

 

"Accept the wobble" --- "With practice, the wobble radius will get smaller."

With pistol...I also like to keep one (while shooting one handed) elbow or both elbows (while shooting with two hands) slightly unlocked.

And my wrist or wrists locked down at a 45-degree angle, so I can control muzzle flip better, and also to help prevent me from dipping the pistol because of possible anticipation of recoil.

 

"Accept the wobble" --- "With practice, the wobble radius will get smaller."

With pistol...I also like to keep one (while shooting one handed) elbow or both elbows (while shooting with two hands) slightly unlocked.

And my wrist or wrists locked down at a 45-degree angle, so I can control muzzle flip better, and also to help prevent me from dipping the pistol because of possible anticipation of recoil.

That’s my problem with being precise with an optic on a handgun. The dot wobble is more noticeable and I think I try to micro-correct it. When shooting slow with irons I feel more precise. When shooting for speed with a dot I’m faster and my groups are tighter. I just need more practice

 

holding the gun to steady down the dot.

The question is an answer in itself. Anything you do prior to your trigger squeeze is inconsequential. Your trigger squeeze should calm and center the dot within your aiming area. Can body position help, certainly but in reality I recommend people shoot one handed (bullseye method) because it will teach you proper triggering. Using both hands can mask poor triggering technique. The key to pistol marksmanship is being able to self train and evaluate. So some of the questions I learned to ask.
Where did the dot come from as I addressed the target ?
which direction does the dot move as I begin to add pressure?
Can I call the shot, which direction from the middle of the X.
If you can't call each shot it is possible you are closing your eyes and shooting by sense of smell. Video your face during a string of fire watch for the blink.
Is your triggering consistent or are you trying to snatch the shot as it passes the X (that never works)
Teach your finger how to pump the trigger.
What happens as you squeeze to take up the slack in trigger? dot moves which way
What happens as you squeeze to 50% of trigger break? Dot moves which way
What happens as you squeeze to 80% "
What happens as you squeeze to 100% "
If shot didn't break, what happens as you squeeze to 120%

Then start experimenting with grip position, finger placement on the trigger, etc.
Let me ask when do you reset the trigger?
I'd recommend that you hold it back through recoil and let the trigger reset be part of the Next shot. Once you are back on target noting where the dot came from, then reset the trigger and begin your squeeze observing dot movement as you reset as well as take up slack and begin pumping the trigger for the next shot.

 

fully extended arms have less control than arms pulled in a bit. some prefer isosilise ,some modified weaver. Even holding a rifle with an extended left arm all the way out on the end of the stock is less repeatable. That stuff is for tv and movies. some prefer a 50/50 grip pressure, some 40/60. Both thumb pointing down range is the way to go. Key is, consistency and repeatability. same release Every time. Just like your rifle, a basketball, an arrow, a pool cue. And, just like racing, there is no substitute for seat time. How do you get to Carnagee Hall? Balance- one foot slightly ahead of the other, knees unlocked(like shooting trap, down on the house) Elbows should not be locked out either. my 2 cents

 

Shoot from your core, don't over think it and follow thru.
Your core connects and stabilizes everything from stance to grip. In other words: get centered. Connection with the ground should be with balls of your feet, not heels. This will greatly reduce wobble.
Don't over think it! Gets me into trouble every time. Lifting a spoon full of soup to our mouth while opening our mouth and depositing the contents without spilling a drop is far more complicated than shooting a handgun. Yet, we don't give it a conscious thought. We can hit ourselves in the mouth with a spoon every time-perfect aim. We had to learn it, practice it and commit it to our subconscious. Over thinking causes conflict between conscious and subconscious. You know, like second guessing, lack of confidence. It helps me to think of getting self out of the way of a good shot.
I believe follow thru is the most important part of the shot sequence. It effects everything that comes before.
Here's an exercise that may help: Get a pointy object(pen, pencil, arrow) Hold it at arms length, bring the point up to a small target and just observe what happens. Just observe. It will move. It may be back and forth, figure 8 or whatever. You'll observe that it always goes back to center. That's your subconscious. It seeks center. Now, try holding it steady on the target. That's conscious aiming. Now, imagine trying to consciously coordinate that movement with breaking the trigger.
A lot of good advice posted above. Also, remember the saying the trigger break should be a surprise. The subconscious knows exactly where it's going to break. It'll time it perfectly if we let it.

 

Nedsled...

And if you develop a flinch...go back to your 22 rimfire and work that flinch out.

 

Flinch? Why good sir, I am insulted!

No, no flinching. Anyway, this is all in relation to my Buckmark.

Other pistol is a Glock 17, and no flinching there either. Of course when I shoot that I am just trying to keep everything in the black at 7 yards as I shoot as fast as possible, so everything is more compressed: "Bang, fight recoil to get front sight back on target and take up slack on trigger, take a split second to line up front and rear sights while steering the sights through the mushy Glock trigger".

Buckmark is more like "take up the slack to the actual wall, and try to time breaking the wall with when the dot aligns with the center of the target while holding a half let-out breath." All USMC fundamentals stuff. Sometimes there is an "oops" when I accidentally break the wall too soon since the trigger is so light (low 2#s) and the "slack" is actually me moving through the slight "creep" part of the single stage trigger. Easy to blow through if I am not concentrating.

 

I use Hogue grips. Also try increasing your arm strength. There will always be a natural wobble. Don’t force the shot just press smoothly until the trigger breaks and shoots and then hold your aim for a second to ensure adequate follow through.

 

I find that putting the most pressure with the middle finger of my firing hand on the pistol grip does seem to control the pistol better for me.

Right now...I seem to have better control when I press the trigger just slightly forward of the first distal joint on my trigger finger.

 

I don't think anyone has mentioned this yet... When you are holding your breath if you don't break the shot in a few seconds, breathe and start all over.

Try holding your handgun as you normally would, hold the breath for too long and watch the sights. The longer one hold the breath the more jiggly things get.

As far as thumbs on or off just try different things. I far prefer as much contact with the grips as I can get to (as already stated) to resist torqueing the handgun. Helps control recoil too not that .22 has much to begin with, but it makes a difference with the bigger boomers. With a 1911, or any handgun with a similar safety I like my right thumb to ride the safety, again, for more control.

 

I would not concern yourself with a little bit of wobble. Use it to your advantage. Try to have a predictable wobble like a figure eight and squeeze the trigger when the sights are aligned with the target.

You need to build your base as much as you can from the ground up so you are stable and not tense. You want your grip to be firm but not so much that you induce wobble to the firearm or get tense.

If you have too much muscle strain and tension you will tire your muscles and induce wobble.

If you stress and try to control the wobble to keep the sights aligned with the target you will add stress and more movement.

Weights and cardio can help. Shooting repetition can help.

Relax and let the gun do what it wants to do. Have a base that does not tax your muscles. Shoot when the sights are aligned with the target.

 

Those red dots are very accurate on handguns, but really show how unsteady the average person is.
I personally believe everyone has to figure out what suits them personally. Several good suggestions already given.
I prefer thumbs forward, moderately tight grip (whatever seems comfortable to me). Weaver stance with a pistol, rifle, or throwing fists. Getting to old for throwing fists.
Whatever you do is going to have to be fairly comfortable, and repeatable. Like everything else practice makes perfect. If you overthink it you may develop bad shooting habits.

 

.

FWIW, I've long used a modified Weaver stance, with the trigger hand grasping the grips/gripframe, and the off hand wrapped around the front of the TG, grasping the trigger hand with the off hand fingers - when shooting push forward hard with the trigger hand & at the same time pulling backward with the off hand.

.

 

Thanks. After a lot of experimentation I kind of arrived at something similar to this.

Another thing I stopped doing is trying to sneak up on the break. My trigger has a little bit of discernable travel before the break and when I try to find that edge, it really increases the jitterbugging of the dot. Just pulling completely through in one single squeeze works a LOT better when offhand. If I am shooting off sandbags I will still do that though.

 

I'm late to your post but my two cents worth starts with a gun that won't move in my hand.
I got a piece of maple and my dremel and made the gun fit me.

 

50+ years ago when I was shooting in a revolver bullseye league we did that all the time, or I did. I used a wood paste that had a resin and acetone(?) (Plastic wood?) I'd build it up and sand/grind it for a perfect fit to my hand complete with thumb rest and no contact for the trigger finger except at the trigger. Then when it was right I coated it with a latex(?) "paint" for a secure grip. It wasn't pretty but it worked great.

 

Toss a gas pedal and extended safety on 'er.....

Browning Buckmark Thumbrest » Striplin Custom Gunworks

Browning Buckmark Thumbrest shown unpainted for visability is made from billet aluminum. Designed to fit all models of Buckmarks.

striplincustom.com

Accelerator Thumb Ledge for Pistols

no tools Thumb Ledge for Pistols with picatinny rail

tandemkross.com

 

Take from all the tips in all these posts and Practice, Practice, Practice. keep us posted.