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One piece rear rest advice

2.9K views 52 replies 14 participants last post by  JimSC  
#1 ·
since it looks like I will be heading down the ARA unlimited road I see a one piece rear rest in my future. The only three I know of in current manufacture are the Randolph, the PQP and the Targetshooting.com models. I am leaning heavily toward the PQP joystick model with a fuzzbutton top. Since I know absolutely nothing about this subject any and all suggestions are appreciated

One question is if the PQP joystick model is worth another $200 and how well does it hold adjustment without creeping. I know that some 2 piece joystick front rests are subject to creep. I had a chance to buy a SEB a few years back and was not real comfortable with the joystick but I only tried it for a handful of shots and there could be some learning curve there and I was shooting prone centerfire
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#2 ·
The two I see used most are the PQP joystick and Cliff Arnold. There's still some holdouts (like me) using a Pappas. Cliff Arnold is basically the same design as a Pappas but on steroids and additional features

At some point I'll upgrade. Not sure yet which one I'll go with. I see a lot of people using the PQP and a lot using the Arnold. Tough call
 
#5 ·
No matter the type. The optional carry handle and feet holder will help a lot.

Sat behind a PQP Joystick. IIRC. Joystick only for windage. Prefer the knobs on the Arnold.

Tops big time tuning opportunity. Jerry Stiller shoots a Fuzz Button.
I'm gonna have to disagree with something you said Sir. The carry handle isn't an option but a MUST HAVE!! ;) :D
 
#4 ·
I don't have a clue what I'm doing...can only show you what I've done.

I went to the range today for a very very short ten shot shooting session. It was my maiden voyage with my Arnold one piece rest. I left home with cloudy skies and a light 2 mph breeze. When I got to the range it started lightly raining with winds 10 to 12 mph. By the time I got set up rain was set in and wind blowing 15 to 25 mph and gust pushing 30 mph. I didn't bother setting up my flags cause I knew I wasn't gonna be there long. LOL!!! I managed to get ten shots off before my target stand blew over and went about 75 yds across the range. There were two other shooters there and their stands disappeared as well....we all just busted out laughing!!! o_O

Here are a few pics from this wonderful shooting session!! :D

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#14 ·
I don't have a clue what I'm doing...can only show you what I've done.

I went to the range today for a very very short ten shot shooting session. It was my maiden voyage with my Arnold one piece rest. I left home with cloudy skies and a light 2 mph breeze. When I got to the range it started lightly raining with winds 10 to 12 mph. By the time I got set up rain was set in and wind blowing 15 to 25 mph and gust pushing 30 mph. I didn't bother setting up my flags cause I knew I wasn't gonna be there long. LOL!!! I managed to get ten shots off before my target stand blew over and went about 75 yds across the range. There were two other shooters there and their stands disappeared as well....we all just busted out laughing!!! o_O

Here are a few pics from this wonderful shooting session!! :D

View attachment 444296

View attachment 444297

View attachment 444300

View attachment 444298
Yeah, I was at ERGC this AM and only got off one box before the hard drizzle and wind hit. I'm getting spoiled shooting indoors at Prairie Station.
 
#17 ·
thanks for the replies guys. All in all I think the PQP with the conventional controls and the fuzzbutton to would be all I need. However first I am going to try some "hillbilly engineering" before buying. I have a good Sinclair with a Greenlaw top and a PQP mechanical rear so I am going to try and marry them together.

I am starting with a piece of 1 x 10 white pine that has been sitting in the corner of the garage for three years now and if it works out I will get a some aluminum from the Metal Supermarket or maybe go with red oak or birch ply. I have thought of half a dozen different design layouts , some just using the Greenlaw top on a pedestal and the mechanical rear some using the entire rest with the speedscrew removed like I have it now. Anyway since I just do club matches I have plenty of time to experiment and can always plop the debit card down if it does not work.
 
#23 ·
thanks for the replies guys. All in all I think the PQP with the conventional controls and the fuzzbutton to would be all I need. However first I am going to try some "hillbilly engineering" before buying. I have a good Sinclair with a Greenlaw top and a PQP mechanical rear so I am going to try and marry them together.

I am starting with a piece of 1 x 10 white pine that has been sitting in the corner of the garage for three years now and if it works out I will get a some aluminum from the Metal Supermarket or maybe go with red oak or birch ply. I have thought of half a dozen different design layouts , some just using the Greenlaw top on a pedestal and the mechanical rear some using the entire rest with the speedscrew removed like I have it now. Anyway since I just do club matches I have plenty of time to experiment and can always plop the debit card down if it does not work.
I’m using a PQP rear rest and a Caldwell BR front and I did some hillbilly engineering myself. I used some plywood for the base, I drew a line down the center, then centered and squared both rests. Once I had that done I used the feet to mark the wood and drilled holes big enough for them to go through. It works well keeping the 2 pieces together and I can level each independently. I did cut the wood between the rests to narrow it a little. Good luck with your build and show us what you come up with.
 
#24 · (Edited)
I am using one of three, one-piece rests that were built by the late Grant Pickard. Too much work, so he gave the plans to the late James Pappas, who then began building them as the Pappas rest. I love my rest, and especially the history behind it. I ended up obtaining my rest from Billy Russel. These guys were among the founding members of ARA, as I recall, and some of you may have known them. I still see Billy from time to time.
 
#29 ·
I am using one of three, one-piece rests that were built by the late Grant Pickard. Too much work, so he gave the plans to the late George Pappas, who then began building them as the Pappas rest. I love my rest, and especially the history behind it. I ended up obtaining my rest from Billy Russel. These guys were among the founding members of ARA, as I recall, and some of you may have known them. I still see Billy from time to time.
That was James Pappas.
 
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#25 ·
Ver 1 Mod 1

I took it to the range yester day but the test was cut short because I needed to make a cutout for my fat belly. Other than being uncomfortable it was very stable. It's pretty heavy at 43 pounds so I don't think any extra weight will be needed. I doubt I will be replacing it with a "real " one piece, this one seems to be doing it's job pretty well.

future mods plans include a cutout in that wood section behind the rear rest to use as a carry handle and a staining or painting

possible future mods may include replacement of the wood screws with machine screws . Making a double thick plywood base


Image
 
#27 ·
Ver 1 Mod 1

I took it to the range yester day but the test was cut short because I needed to make a cutout for my fat belly. Other than being uncomfortable it was very stable. It's pretty heavy at 43 pounds so I don't think any extra weight will be needed. I doubt I will be replacing it with a "real " one piece, this one seems to be doing it's job pretty well.

future mods plans include a cutout in that wood section behind the rear rest to use as a carry handle and a staining or painting

possible future mods may include replacement of the wood screws with machine screws . Making a double thick plywood base


View attachment 444745
I shot a very similar setup in 2018. You will be fine with that.
Todd
 
#35 ·
The approach I took with the tube was it was just extra weight. As long as you adjust by turning the tuner or moving the slide (not both) it shouldn't cause any harm. The one noodle I have belongs to my friend and I never intended to leave it on permanently. John suggested that if I wanted to try it, when I did my preliminary testing with the 10X, to only adjust the slider or tuner. My preliminary results with just the tuner were just ok. So I put the tube on halfway through the session, set the tuner on 0, and started shooting in increments. Turned out that 0 was better than anything I saw that day. Tube on or tube off. So I went with that. I did a little re-testing a few weeks later and 0 with the tube on was best again. So I shot it that way all season. I'm now going through the process of testing more thoroughly without the tube. We'll see if I can improve on what I was using previously
 
#36 ·
Reasonable approach, I suspect.
Not that anybody asked but I suspect your premise is likely correct, simple additional weight, but nobody, including myself really knows. I suspect, this is the fancy version of guys, whether they realize or not, that are leaning towards “ overwhelming “ the barrel not tuning it properly.
Remember, several years back, where guys were putting a tuner on and then laying on lots of lead weights, etc. Guys were laying on all kinds of weight.
The guy from Caly shot some big ARA scores but with one particular barrel and over time proved far less consistent and, if not mistaken, largely abandoned, why, me personally, I keep returning to the simple fact that a few of the very best builders, a. Don’t go the big weight/noodle route, and b. set’em up properly and leav them alone. These guys are not dummies.
My latest head scratcher is whether LAPUA requires a Slightly different tune than ELEY ? I’ve gone back and forth testing but return to my baseline tune, done with ELEY. My last match of the year was UNL with LAPUA and ended up 749 57X’s, with a pluggable 9 at a range not know for being easy so I’m not really complaining.
 
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#41 · (Edited)
Yep….I know, some great shooters going that route, no doubt. As you well know, no such thing as a universal truth in most of this game and to illustrate a point, I believe he was pretty accomplished before he took that step. Me, I’ll go with the odds, and knowing a few of the greatest of all time shooters and knowing their approach.
Bears repeating, and I bet you agree, too many make it way too complicated too early in their learning curve.

To, ( I hope), my entire career I had to have developed , to survive, an analytical mind and filter out what was really true vs what I wanted to be true., combined with embracing the Occums Razor approach to a lot of endeavors.
 
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#39 ·
He doesn't have the slide on it but I'm pretty sure there's weights in there. His is actually nothing. I see guys with one or two mid-barrel tuners and all kind of stuff hanging on the end. Not knocking them, at least some of them score better than I do at this point.
 
#50 ·
Hey Jim,

Not trying to be a butt. On the practice target you posted in #46 there's dimensions in bulls #2, 3, 4, & 5. Did you actually measure the rings? If so there might be an issue how the target is scaled when you print. The rings should measure as follows

Dot - .050"
50 Ring - .500"
25 Ring - .750"
10 Ring - 1.000"
 
#53 ·
thanks yeah I have the OT, I just like the real target to judge my hold offs.

I figured out where that target came from. I made it up months ago when a friend and I were thinking about starting a "outlaw class" for our local ARA matches and wanted a target halfway between a factory and a unlimited for modified factory rifles and other non qualifying factory rifles such as Anschutz etc. It never generated much interest and I had forgo9tton about it