Crown Rant
There are many factors that determine the precision level of a barrel, and as has been said, while one brand may have more "shooters" than another, almost all of the major 10/22 "barrel-making" companies seem to have examples of excellent shooting barrels.
Barrel making consists of deep hole drilling and reaming, button or cut rifling (or mass produced hammer forging), heat treatment, contouring, and on some barrels, hand or machine bore lapping. Some call these finished barrels "barrel blanks".
Barrel fitting/finishing includes cutting and crowning, chambering, threading or machining to fit a specific receiver type, and perhaps other procedures such as additional contouring, fluting, muzzle threading, and surface finishing. In some instances the barrel maker's shop does all, sometimes the branded barrel supplier does almost nothing, and sometimes the fitting of a barrel blanks are done on an individual basis by gunsmiths. For example, barrel maker A might do just contoured blanks, and all further operations are done by a gunsmith. I would imagine virtually all competent/serious benchrest competition rifles barrels follow this route. On the other hand, barrel "maker" B might buy complete barrels from a real barrel maker, and perform only minor barrel fitting/finishing procedures. Herein lies an issue . . .
Barrel vendors that sell crowned, finished barrels chambered and fitted for 10/22 actions generally seem to NOT cut barrel crowns using a lathe and toolbit method. To do properly, crowning requires dialing in of the bore to .000X" levels, either directly or using a pin, prior to cutting, and then cutting of a flat, usually recessed crown or 11 degree taper using a lathe and the proper tooling. This is too time and expertise intensive for the competitively priced market, and quite frankly, not required to meet the general needs of the 10/22 aftermarket barrel market. So other methods are used, including the use of barrel crowning reamers/cutters. Stick it in - spin it - yur done. Problem is, IMHO, this crowning method is rarely likely to permit the full precision potential of the barrel. These reamers/cutters usually produce a chamfer cut of the barrel crown. I don't believe this, even when done absolutely symmetrically, will provide optimal precision. And it usually ISN'T done perfectly. I also believe that dial-in/lathe/toolbit re-crowning of barrels is (yes - along with proper chambering!) the main reason gunsmiths that perform "accurizing" of 10/22's generally produce excellent results.
I currently have a very recently purchased barrel from a major 10/22 barrel maker that exhibits this issue. Look closely at the chamfering of the crown. There is a significant chamfer on one side of the crown, and none on the opposite side. Think of what is going to happen when a bullet exits this barrel, with hot pressurized gas behind it. There is NO WAY this barrel will be a shooter as is, and NO WAY I will build a rifle around this barrel as it is.
Okay - long post. Short version - if you want a seriously accurate/precise barrel, get someone, a barrel maker or competent gunsmith, to crown your barrel using a proper dial-in/lathe/toolbit method. Of course, to get a "shooter", other barrel parameters must also be good, but even a barrel with the best chambering and bore will not shoot with a crappy crown.