Looks to me like the angle that the bullets enter the chamber is slightly off. Same thing happens with different mags? Different ammo??

If it happens with several different mags, maybe try polishing the feed ramp?

 

Brand new member here. At 65 years old, I've been a novice shooter all my life. I've now reached a point where I find myself shooting more than I ever have and really enjoy rimfires.

Been tinkering with my 10-22 to tighten groups and experimenting with different ammo. While doing to I've noticed that when cycling CCI SV, I'm seeing marks on the bullet, which leads me to two questions:
1) is the mark happening during chambering or ejecting?
2) what is causing the marks?
I've pushed rounds through the rotary mag while removed from the gun and the mag doesn't seem to be the culprit. Any help would be appreciated.

looks like the nose of the round, is shaving a tiny bit on the edge of the chamber as it's being fed..you can either break the sharp edge of the mouth of the chamber, or simply forget about it, and just enjoy shooting the rifle, as it probably doesn't effect anything at 50yads

 

Single load into the chamber and fire 5 rounds (or more) at the range and target you like to shoot at.
Then do another target with the same number feeding out of the magazine.
If you dont see any dif in the group size ignore it and have fun.

 

I tried that too. Makes sense … in theory. Be careful with hand feeding single rounds into the chamber. You have to be sure the bolt is fully closed and the extractor has a grip on the case. A 10/22 will fire out of battery.

 

I have two Kidd 10/22’s and 6 mags that range from 1974 to brand new. The feed ramps have been polished … even tried the old polymer ones from TK. Wound the springs in every practical configuration. Changed out the plunger springs and tried both available strengths. Tried every brand of decent ammo. The only possible solution I have not tried is removing and shimming the barrels. So far, I have found no combination that won’t occasionally ding a bullet pretty bad. I gave up and bought a CZ Chassis. Right out of the box it shot circles around my Kidds. Jus’ sayin’. If you find a solution, please share it. Good luck.

 

gcrank, that's good advice. I'll give that a try and report back.

H8DIRT, I'm quickly realizing that what you're saying is very true. I've been tinkering with this thing all summer (trigger, bull barrel, etc) trying to make it accurate. My son has a CZ with no mods that shoots circles around my 10-22. Tinkering is fun but expensive.

 

If/when you decide to get a CZ, there is a ton of ideas and lots of advice on here for ending up with a great rifle.
Just don't feel bad when you realize that you've fallen into the rabbit hole. You're not alone in there.

 

The Kidd hole is no divot, either. Ha!

 

It’s not a rabbit hole anymore !!! It’s become a sink hole. JMHO 🤙🏼
My calculations come up with this 👇🏼

BON APPETIT

 

Single load into the chamber and fire 5 rounds (or more) at the range and target you like to shoot at.
Then do another target with the same number feeding out of the magazine.
If you dont see any dif in the group size ignore it and have fun.

A good idea, but one group of each will tell you nothing useful. You’ll need at least four 5-shot groups with each technique to have any real confidence in the results. But hey, it’s a great excuse to shoot more.

How Many Shots Does It Take?



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Same experience. Sometimes worse.

 

Honestly, if it's a stock 10/22... don't even worry about it. They are accurate but not to the point where this would make a difference.

Now, if you got a $3-400 barrel in it, maybe then start trying to problem solve.

 

Drag marks happen when the bolt moves over the round on the way back . polish the bottom of your bolt , break any sharp edges,
When the bolt moves forward to pick up another round dings can happen from the magazine , again polish the surfaces and eliminates sharp edges .
A sharp edge on the chamber face , ie the hole edges can gouge the bullet , again polish and chamfer that edge , give it a micro crown.
A ding, a scuff a gouge does affect accuracy at50 yards. All this takes 10 minutes, its worth it.

 

Drag marks happen when the bolt moves over the round on the way back . polish the bottom of your bolt , break any sharp edges,
When the bolt moves forward to pick up another round dings can happen from the magazine , again polish the surfaces and eliminates sharp edges .
A sharp edge on the chamber face , ie the hole edges can gouge the bullet , again polish and chamfer that edge , give it a micro crown.
A ding, a scuff a gouge does affect accuracy at50 yards. All this takes 10 minutes, its worth it.

I considered breaking the edge on the chamber mouth on a couple three rifles - how exactly would you do it though? The more detail the better 😊, including specific tools.
TIA!

 

Or this ChamberMade Chamber Ironing Swage

 

Or like cheap me , an old pencil punch and a piece of fine grit sand paperapplied at an angle to break the edge.

 

Thanks for taking the time to offer the usual helpful and thorough response you’re known for, Toomany22s 😊
As it happens I already own everything on your list except the brass muzzle lapping device, which I just ordered in case I like it better than the swage, which I purchased from Tandemcross many years ago because I misunderstood what it was for😂🤦🏼‍♂️, and I’ve been occasionally using both bore paste and bore bright.
Thanks again!😊👍

 

I can't test it but someone with a Kidd supergrade could probably shim the barrel easily to see if moving the barrel forward would help with this. I don't have a supergrade to do this test.

 

You don’t need a Supergrade, any stock 10/22 can be tested by shimming the barrel forward several thousandths…or hundredths for that matter. Alll you need are shims, which can be purchased.




.

 

You don’t need a Supergrade, any stock 10/22 can be tested by shimming the barrel forward several thousandths…or hundredths for that matter. Alll you need are shims, which can be purchased.

This would work well as long as the barrel wasn’t thermal interference-fitted, assuming multiple tries with various shims.

 

I should have elaborated a bit more. I don't have a $300.00-$400.00 barrel, but it does have a floated KSA bull barrel on it. I don't have a lot of faith in anything that comes from ebay, but a friend gave me that barrel.

 

Brand new member here. At 65 years old, I've been a novice shooter all my life. I've now reached a point where I find myself shooting more than I ever have and really enjoy rimfires.

Been tinkering with my 10-22 to tighten groups and experimenting with different ammo. While doing to I've noticed that when cycling CCI SV, I'm seeing marks on the bullet, which leads me to two questions:
1) is the mark happening during chambering or ejecting?
2) what is causing the marks?
I've pushed rounds through the rotary mag while removed from the gun and the mag doesn't seem to be the culprit. Any help would be appreciated.

2 questions:
1. Does this happen only with CCI SV?
2. Chambering or ejecting? What were you doing? Making the weapon safe during a cease fire command or just doing something else?

 

this is another reason why I like the 17Mach2..feeding that 17 caliber bullet into a 22 sized chamber mouth leaves a lot of room for the bullet to enter the chamber without damaging it...I know it's not very helpful here in this situation, but it's still true

OP what do the groups look like when out target shooting? if the rifle shoots tight groups, a little scrape on the bullet nose doesn't really matter...

 

This would work well as long as the barrel wasn’t thermal interference-fitted, assuming multiple tries with various shims.

You’re kidding, right? So you believe that once a barrel is thermal interference-fitted it can never be removed? Interesting, and enlightening. 🙄

FWIW, I don’t have any trouble replacing such barrels, but then I’m an engineer. 🚂




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You’re kidding, right? So you believe that once a barrel is thermal interference-fitted it can never be removed? Interesting, and enlightening. 🙄

FWIW, I don’t have any trouble replacing such barrels, but then I’m an engineer. 🚂

No, I’m not kidding, and I also have separated several Kidd/Kidd actions with no real issues even though I’m neither an engineer nor do I play one on TV😎 but I just don’t enjoy the process and consider it a hassle, the op with setup takes every bit of 45 minutes.
I wouldn’t want to do it repeatedly to the same rifle and I’d opt for other effective solutions that exist.
Also, there probably is a limit of how many times you can do it to the same receiver with no deformation, even if very minor, that number probably wouldn’t be single digit though.


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Quote:
"2 questions:
1. Does this happen only with CCI SV?
2. Chambering or ejecting? What were you doing? Making the weapon safe during a cease fire command or just doing something else?"

I've only noticed it with CCI SV while ejecting to make safe during a cease fire. I've since tried cycling a few other brands I was experimenting with and they come out clean. The whole reason for trying CCI SV was because I recently mounted a suppressor.

I pushed a few rounds through the mag with the mag detached and they came out with no marks.

 

i would guess the mark you show is on the bottom of the bullet. this is from the bullet bouncing off the breach before going into the chamber as it angles upward. barrel shims might reduce the impact by increasing the distance the round travels from the mag to the breach. also try placing thin strips to the front of the magazine just above the magazine bolt. this might help a little by tilting the magazine upward. chamfering the breach rim helps also.

lastly choose ammo that has a more pointy bullet shape. cci mini mags work well.

 

10/22 barrel shims try triggershims.com