Hey Chris! By no means am I an expert on 10-22s since I had not owned one for years until I picked up a new LVT a couple of months ago. The trigger was close to 7 lbs and the extractor would not remove a fired or unfired shell. Had the trigger fixed/adjusted and replaced the extractor. I haven't messed with bedding or removing material to float the barrel... yet.

I haven't noticed any trigger group play. It must be internal to the group since it is pinned in place to the receiver, so ??? If I decide to float the barrel it will be a bit more than just barely being able to slide a single between barrel and stock.

So far, I've been getting a little less than 2 MOA (about 3/4" 10 round groups at 50 yds) out of mine with mini-mags. That is acceptable for my intended purpose as a back door rifle to keep the varmint population down around my deer feeder out back (approx. 50 yards). I am lucky enough to have a bunch of higher $ ammo that I shoot through my bolt actions and may try some of it in the LVT, but haven't yet. So I don't know the true accuracy of mine yet. There are several around here that report great accuracy though.

Good luck!

 

Without seeing pics of the stock its hard to give any advise but here is what I would do. Reason for free floating is to eliminate pressure points from the stock onto the barrel once it warms up. First shoot a couple five shot groups at 50 yards so you have a reference to look back on. Try to run a dollar bill between the barrel and stock all the way to the breech. If you cant do this mark with pencil or tape. where the spots are. Next take the stock off and place a couple business cards as far back toward the chamber as you can get. Reinstall and torque to manufactures specs if no specs 30 -40 inch pounds should do it. Now see if the dollar bill will slide all the way down to the business cards. If it does take it out and shoot some more groups & note the changes. if it doesn't add another business card. Once you have completed this exercise it will determine what has to happen next. This is a quick way to determine if the bedding is doing you any good and if further touching up on the bedding is necessary.

 

I have an LVT action that was in a modified carbine stock. I can shoot it MOA at 50 yards some of the time with CCI SV, but not consistently. This might be my fault, as I am not a great shooter. In the hands of a better shooter using better ammo, I would not be surprised if most LVTs can do MOA@50.

I would advise the OP NOT to free-float the barrel yet. Shoot the gun quite a bit and see how it performs; find its preferred ammo. Free-floating is not a guaranteed improvement, so if nothing else you should establish a baseline of performance with the barrel resting in the channel. Then, if it shoots poorly, or you think it might shoot better, float the barrel and see if that makes it better or worse.

 

My LVT had a small pad built into the stock. It was located under the barrel about 1" back from the front of the stock. My understanding it supposed to be there, but I don't know if it's still needed after bedding your action.

 

If you want the LVT to shoot good , then use some good ammo like Wolf or SK . Its been my experience that about all the LVT needs is the trigger set to 2 1/2 lbs and some good glass . There are a lot of things that affect your groups like how you feel , the wind , your rest ,ect . 3/4" groups at 50 yards would be pretty good for average shooters that haven't had much Bench Rest time . Its a 300.00 rifle that wont shoot like a 1000.00 BR rifle but its close . Woodchucks at 100 yards , not a problem . My LVT with a Brimstone trigger job shoots as good as I can if I do my part right .

 

Thanks for the input people!

Well, I finally got in some decent trigger time, off a duffel bag out the back of my pickup. I went through a lot of ammo just getting the glass pointing the right direction.

Takeaways:

1. I am a new rifle shooter, previous experience has predominantly shotgun for bird hunting, but WOW....different kinds of ammo make a HUGE difference. I was predominantly using Aguila Super Extra (Its what i could find to buy) and then towards the end of the day i switched over to Remington EPS. There was a difference of 1 milrad between the two...I had no idea!

2. To get any kind of decent feel for accuracy i am going to need to get bags or a bipod and a decent shooting platform.

3. Only being able to buy a maximum of 150 rounds of ammunition a day, on the 2 or 3 times i have found ANY, it makes it difficult to be able to have expectations of the gun and glass as i have a limited amount of any one brand. I know im beating a dead horse.....but this ammo hoarding thing is out of control!!!

4. I did get a few groups of 3 at less than 1 inch at 100 yards...but its going to take a whole lot more practice to do that consistantly.

 

As Birdman suggested, ammo is going to be key. Much like it is with most firearms, but 22's seem to be very fickle.

You had trigger work done and that helps you the shooter be more accurate, but does nothing for the gun. The glass bedding will help, along with pillar job.

You have done most of the work to get it up to superstock...assuming the work was done properly.

You may want to do a search on bolt work and other fine tuning services offered by RFC members.

I would start with ammo. Dont go below CCI in quality, it is my plinking ammo for young and new shooters and it is capable of 1 MOA.

Try out some SK or Eley...you may never go back to bulk ammo after that stuff shows you the light

Go to Killough online...spend $40 on a few boxes and your issues with finding ammo may be over...your wallet will scream but it doesnt have fingers that can pull a trigger either

 

Finally got mine out to the range just to get the scope on paper. I put a Vortex Crossfire II 3-9x50 (good inexpensive option) on it, and my first 3 shot group was within 1/2 inch of center off of a rest at 50 yards. I have never had a scope so close after just bolting it on. Pretty amazing. Only took one magazine to zero it. Not saying it means the scope is awesome or anything, just that I have never had to use so few rounds to zero a gun.

Anyways, I ran 50 rounds crappy bulk ammo through it, and it functioned flawlessly out of the box with only a shot of CLP and a few passes with the Hoppe's Bore Snake before shooting. No receiver or bolt work, no trigger work, nothing. Fairly accurate too - at 25 yards, it was shooting dime-sized groups from a rest. I need to spend some more time and reach out to 100 yards with different and better ammo to see what it can really do. It is probably more accurate than my 10/22 T model, but that will take more empirical evidence, and some side-by-side comparisons (darn, more time at the range) before I can say for sure.

Bottom line, out of the box, it is a great shooting gun and you can't go wrong. I am perfectly happy with mine.

 

Yeah, you may not want to go head to head with the T.

Because the T wont see the light of day once you get done with that comparison. I had a T, now I have 3 LVT's. They just balance so much better and carry a lot better in the woods if you are into that kind of thing.

The best thing about the T for me, is the hammer forged barrel, and it stops there...YMMV of course.

 

First off I registered in 2012 but havent been on the site in a long time...what was I thinking? What a great site and people actually know what a LVT is !! Picked up my LVT about a year or so ago for Hunter Rifle Silhouette shoots (20 targets / 4 distances / timed). Hand lapped the barrel, did some trigger tuning - it's just under 3#. Shoots like a dream.

Target before I changed the scope

 

The LVT crowd is kind of a cross between the superstock guys and the stock guys. The LVT is a great shooting, out of the box 10/22, but still has plenty of room to grow into a spectacular super stock.

It really does a nice job of introducing people into the superstock division of the 10/22.

 

There's that word again. Not that I want to highjack the thread, but what exactly IS a superstock 10/22? I've been seeing this term on RFC for a while now, but I've never seen anyone post a definition of what a superstock 10/22 actually is. I have a feeling that I may have a couple of them, but it would be nice to know what's meant by "superstock".