I haven't a clue what could be the cause(s) but if you can get that thing cheap enough, buy it. They are a fun project gun and really not that hard to fix.... usually.

 

No such thing as a pre K. The K22 Masterpiece is a K frame. It is the pre double digit designation Model 17. So, yes, mostly all trigger/hammer parts are the same.

 

Yeah, it's got the target hammer and trigger, if the internals are standard K frame stuff then I assume I can get the other bits or springs as needed... thanks for the quick responses.

 

Parts are out there. The target hammer is harder to find. The hammer not going back while you pull the trigger usually means the double action sear isn't working. It may be broken or taken out for single action only shooting. The hammer not locking up while being pulled back means either the sear edge is damaged or the strain screw is backed out or filed down to far for good lock up. Cutting springs back for a lighter pull will mess with lockup if done too far. Use ONLY factory length springs so as not to mess with geometry of the action.
When you take the side plate off after all the screws are out tip the revolver so the side plate is down and lightly tap on the handle with a wood or plastic mallet and the plate will come out.
Let us know what you find.

 

It sounds like someone might have converted it to single-action only. S&W used to sell a kit to do that. I'd shoot it as is and enjoy it.

 

If the hammer doesn't lock when you pull it back as the op stated, it is not a SAO S&W, which at one time could be ordered that way from the factory.

 

About removing the side plate to get into the inner workings...
They were hand fit very precisely... if there is a burr or ripple of any kind in the fitting line, then someone took it of incorrectly and mucked up the fit.
DO NOT use a screwdriver or anything else to pry it loose-you will cause a burr at the top edge when the plate comes free... instead, like JPicker indicated, take the grips off and use a wood or plastic 'whacker' (not a metal hammer) to give it a couple sharp raps on the bare GRIP FRAME... this will vibrate it off.
Sounds like someone tried to do a trigger job and messed up the hammer/sear/trigger interface... you might have to replace the hammer or trigger depending on what was done. If that is the case, then i would send it in to S&W and let them fix it... also check to make sure there is a spring inside the rebound slide-although you might be able to get it out, it takes a special tool to get back together. Also check t see if the mainspring (runs up the grip frame) strain screw (low front of grip) is tight and that the top 'hooks' hasn't come off the hammer stirrup.

Get Jerry Kuhnhausen's S&W shop manual- it details every aspect of working on S&W revolvers.

 

2nd the vote for the Kuhnhausen manual. Any S & W revolver owner who does any work at all on their gun(s) should own it.

 

Grab that Bad Boy!

 

Go to Numric Arms for your parts. They are inexpensive and they have everything I've looked for. Good prices and fantastic customer service.

 

Getting the 1952 vintage K22 mentioned at the start of this chain as a package deal with a very clean 1971 vintage model 41. Will pick them both up Monday and see about tearing into the K22 to see what ails it as the week goes along. I will let the "peanut gallery" know more as I learn more, thanks for the incentive to try my luck at revolver repair.

 

Wow, In case anyone is interested I picked up both pistols today. When I picked up the K22 I used my thumb to folllow the hammer and it seemed to operate normally. Then it jammed. Picked it up again while waiting for the paperwork to run and noticed the hammer now pulled right back and locked and released normally. Then it locked up again…. Suspected something was just sticky or maybe a spring of some sort was weak and I was hopeful it was going to be an easy fix.

Back home I gently got the side plate off and it was almost as if someone had packed the internals with grease 50 years ago. Got the bulk of the gunk out and sure enough the sear was gummed up and pivoting/returning very slowly. Washed everything out with gunscrubber spray then a liberal dousing with Ezox and it runs like a well balanced top again!

Could the sticky/gunky stuff have been the dreaded WD-40 dried up residue I’ve heard so much about through the years? If it was, someone must have been doubling and tripling down on the stuff for it to have been as thick as the crap I washed out.

Last things, should there be a spot of grease in the pockets for the various pivoting pins or just oil on the internals. Any need for a dab of thread locker on the side plate screws or just clean em up and snug them down?

 

S&W does not pack the mechanism with grease of any kind. Therefore some numb nut must have done it. It doesn't sound like WD40 to me but rather some type of grease. Simplest way yo get it back in order is a bath of warm mineral spirits and an old toothbrush. NO GREASE! Lubricate with a light oil. I use ATF synthetic cut down with mineral spirits.

 

A good gun oil is all you need. Old oil and grease is what caused your problem. Glad that is all it was. I use a light grease on all the pins. for the hammer, trigger and trigger rebound pin. But I open up and clean my guns every few years.

 

I wouldn't use any thread locker, just lightly snug them.
Some screws are specific to their position, so don't get them mixed up, especially the front yoke screw... It's in front of the trigger and can be removed to remove the yoke & cylinder for cleaning & lube. Be careful putting the cyl back in, as it's easy to slide it along the frame while aligning the yoke and scratch the left frame...

 

Once you get all the gunk out and lightly oil the internals, you should never need to remove the side plate ever again.
I open the gun up when I first buy it ( especially a used one) and the pin never open it up again. I have guns I have used for 30 years or more than never needed to be opened up again, even having been shot a lot. My guess is my model 17 is in the territory of 125 thousand rounds fired.
Las mentioned no lock tight, and make sure to keep the screws in the right holes- the yoke screw was hand fit in these guns. Also make sure strain screw ( bottom front of grip frame) is fully tight. If you star5 getting misfires check the strain screw usually first issue that comes up with these

 

That's a lucky buy!
I like a thin layer of quality synthetic grease inside mine. It feels smooth, minimized wear, and hasn't gummed up anything in the 20 years I've been doing it.
A good oil works too, but may periodically need a drop or two in there in my experience.

If you need to dissolve some old gummy grease, hoppes #9 works wonders. Wd40 works too, but not as well.

 

Never use WD40 for a lubricant. It was designed for the space industry a “water desiccant” (WD #40). It will eventually gum up your action works. Use only proper gun oils for lubrication.

 

He made no mention of using it as a lubricant.

Why do people assume it will be used in that manner when WD40 is mentioned.
It has many uses even with firearms.

 

 

 

“22/32 Kit Gun, Model of 1953” Pre 34, flat latch

 

I need that K-32 to complete my set!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

lesptr, I am glad that you are aware of problems associated with WD40 in firearms and hopefully Saki302 is also. Many people do use WD40 as a lubricant so, consider my comment as a public service for those others who do not know and could potentially cause harm to their firearms.
Saki302, if my comment offended you, I offer my apologies.

 

I want to shop where you do! That was a great score, and you rescued a fine pistol.

 

If you feel comfortable taking the side plate off send me a Pic of the area around the bottom of the hammer...I may be able to see the problem

 

Soluton was posted about 1/2 way down page 1. Solved the problem the day after bringing the pistol home. The lockwork was basically packed with what amounted to grease. A good flushing with solvent and a toothbrush followed by some Ezox made the pistol like new again.