Yes. It worked well. I used shoe polish for a release agent after filling all voids with modeling clay.

 

Yup, used Kiwi Natural shoe polish as a release

Second one I did using aluminum tape as a "temporary" measure since I got a new stock a few days before a match, and the whole rifle rocked in it. I say "temporary" because I haven't redone it in almost 2 years.

 

I like JB for bedding, use Johnsons Paste Wax for a release agent.

 

I have used it many times. I also have used golf club shafting epoxy. Its extremely cheap, and super hard. Just imagine how many times clubs hit the ground hard, and the head never comes off.

 

My Savage Mark II is sitting in the vice right now setting up.
I used JB Weld for the pillars and bedding.
I'll clean it up in the morning and take it out to the range for some testing

 

JB Weld



always nice to see pictures after clean-up.

 

I have used it and it works good. It can get kinda runny in warm temps and goes places you wouldnt expect (or want).
Found the way to curb that is to use towards the bottom of the recommended temperature range.

 

Nah, Likwid Nayals is da bomb:bthumb:

 

Yabut the cost savings goes out the window when you have to buy a caulking gun.

 

I have used JB weld yo bed a few rifles. Works great, I use candle wax to fill all voids and use vasoline as a relese agent. Pops right out no problem and easy clean up. Good luck with your project.

 

I used JB Weld once when I was out of Marine-Tex, and couldn't wait. Held my breath, but it turned out fine. I'd use it again if I had to, and not worry.

As for release agent, I thin down Johnsons Paste Wax with mineral spirits, and paint it on with a small brush. I know that way it gets into every little crevice and corner that may be missed by wiping the semi-solid wax on with a rag. A quick buff after it sets to lower any built up spots, and set it in the bedding compound.

Learned that from a gunsmith buddy 20 years ago, and have been doing it ever since. Haven't stuck a single stock.... yet...

 

detailed instructions?

Can any of you point me to some detailed instructions for doing the bedding with JB Weld. I have a Walther UIT that is a tack driver but always looking to get an extra 1/16th off of the groups....

Thanks.....

 

I've used it along with kiwi neutral polish for release. PAM works also for a release agent but I prefer the kiwi.

 

Is bedding helpful in a rifle that has a low recoil like a 22LR?
Always wondered.

 

jb weld for beddding

I am a user of Devcon Plastic Steel Putty, for bedding; however, the best grouping of any bedding I have done, was with JB Weld, original, with KiWi, natural shoe polish. I bedded the rear of stock, and first 2 inches of z-block, with A-683 for pillar, and 1/4 x 20 take down screw. Resulting with .0XX groups at 25yds, with Leupy 36X, Clark 21 inch barrel, in a Fajen stock.
I always had good results of 1/2 inch groups at 100, with my deer rifles using Accuglass , and reaming out take down screw holes, and filling with the Accuglass to form a pillar, after heavy coating screws with Johnson's Paste Wax, and floating barrels. I know it is not the way; however, it worked for me. The liquid form of Accuglass is messy, but seems to fill all areas of woodwork well. This was back in the day, and now I use the Devcon, but have not repeated the grouping I got with JB Weld. The grouping with deer rifles was with hand loading IMR 3031, in 308, and IMR 4831, in 270.

 

Better results with one epoxy over another has nothing to do with the kind of epoxy. The man who built 3 of my custom varmint rifles, uses a dial indicator to check for any toque left after bedding, and if there is any torque at all when loosening the action screws, he will remove a tad of the bedding, and apply another thin layer, and keep going until its perfect.

As far as the question about bedding for a .22lr. If your out for extreme accuracy, then yes. If your rifle seems to be a little off every few months, yes it should be bedded. Bedding a rifle has nothing to do with its recoil, but how the action sets in the stock to keep it from binding as the screws are tightened, or from moving due to the wood or plastic giving due to humidity or temp. changes. If they are bedded, and bedded right, they will stay sighted in year after year.

 

good old bondo with small amount of house hold insulation fibers
Pam works really well...
along smooth parts like the barrel/stock forarm plastic wrap an Pam

 

good old bondo with small amount of house hold insulation fibers. Pam works really well along smooth parts like the barrel/stock forearm plastic wrap and Pam

Why not? Before WW2 gunsmiths used Plastic Wood.

I once had one stick where I'd used paste wax for release agent with fibreglass resin. Two days in the deep freeze and it broke loose. I've also done fibreglass moldings for motorcycle fairings using Vaseline. Never a failure. The pros use some sort of special alcohol-based stuff the sprays on. It's water-soluble, so to separate the parts you just wet 'em down.

 

I have used Devcon aluminum epoxy. It has virtually no shrink, sets hard enough to be milled, and takes a real pop. Used it on a 7mm Rem Mag and it turned out beautifully. It was toothpaste consistency before it set, and easy to work with.

 

Finished bedding my Mark II with JB Weld today.

One thing I found out for sure.
Make sure you set the rifle in the vise, Barrel down after you set the action in the stock.

 

I've used it several times and have found that Hornady case lube spray also works well as a release agent. It's basically a spray on wax that's easier to use than shoe polish and easier to get full coverage.

 

The great M14 gunsmith Art Luppino swears by it. He pillar bedded my LRB M14 with JB Weld. He says it's best for the McMillan stock like mine wears, and the rifle hammers. He's the fella in the M14 bedding video available everywhere.
Mike B

 

Recoil has nothing to do with opting to bed a scope base.

Check out this video, step by step, on how to bed using JB Weld. I've done a M700 and Savage 300WM using this process. Works beautifully.

 

J&B ,Devcon steel,but mostly Brownells Accuraglas All with steel fillers. I've always used Johnons paste wax... haven't stuck one yet.

 

Devcon Steel and wax shoe polish in my limited experience worked fine.

 

I used to use Brownells Acraglas Gel with their Aluminum Powder mixed in, but went away from Acraglas as it never felt completely hard to me - you could just mark the surface by pushing a small screwdriver tip into it. The last 2 rifles I did I used Devcon Plastic Steel. It is a bit runny to deal with but mixing Al Powder with it improves it to butter consistency .The next one I do I have a pot of Marine-Tex to try. For a release agent I have used Brownells (the alcohol based one) and one one occasion car wax. I have not used Kiwi but have onle heard good things about it. A mate, who does lots of bedding uses a Ciba Geigy mould release agent. I have yet to end up with a one piece gun but always hold my breath as I separate the action from the wood. as always spend lots of time doing prep including temporary dams to contain the compound and masking on exposed barrel where the goo oozes out on to.

For scope bases, should they need it, Devcon.

 

gkcs- Try Devcon Plastic Steel Putty, 10110-
Consistency is like REALLY sticky peanut butter, sets
Hard-



Kiwi Neutral for release agent. Flame it to melt, apply liquid, buff to a haze-





Sets smooth as glass:





How-to sticky here:

http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=526029

 

Never thought in a millions years I would say this, but that is the sexiest bedding job I have ever seen.

I'm gonna do one this weekend...been thinking about it for awhile, but those pictures have put me over the edge.

Do you mind if I PM you for some of the finer points?

 

All the above work for wood stocks. What do you guys use for plastic? Most epoxies I have looked at will not adhere to thermoplastic polymers such as ABS.

 

Drill angled holes and get some mechanical lock going on