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I'm in. Sure took me long enough. Hopefully my vision 10/22 Sporter can be realized ...

3.3K views 123 replies 17 participants last post by  CraigC  
#1 · (Edited)
I have been shooting for 50+ years and in all that time I have never owned a Ruger 10/22. The original carbine design just wasn't my cup of tea, nor did it ever fit the type of shooting I was doing. Years went by, all hunting with bolt action .22s. Which as you all know get the job done. A decade ago (Dec. 2014), on a fluke, I bought my first semi-auto .22 rifle, a Remington 552 Speedmaster. It had a $175 price tag. The shop even had an indoor range and let me shoot it. It grouped fine with bulk ammo at 25yds, so I brought it home. Seriously, at a $175 ask, why not? At the time I couldn't hunt small game with a semi-auto rifle in Pennsylvania, it still made for a fun range gun though. Then PA made hunting with .22 rimfire semi-auto legal in the 2017/2018 season. I mounted a 4X Leopold single power scope on the 552 and the combo made for a great small game gun. A couple of seasons went by, and I started missing shots that should have been dead on. What the what? It took a while to figure out that the barrel would shift slightly in the action. Since both iron sights are mounted on the barrel, point of aim is not affected when using the iron sights, but with a scope mounted on the action and things go wonky. This flaw is inherent in the Remington 552s "shotgun style" barrel to action fitment design. I’m still mulling ways to fix or Band-Aid the 552. Meanwhile, I was back to borrowing my son’s bolt action .22, a Remington 511(now with my 4X Leupold scope mounted on it) for squirrels and rabbits. BTW, this also is a great combo for a small game woods gun. Besides, he wouldn't miss it since he was busy with the Marines in Okinawa. But now he’s back looking for a new job and when he lands one, I’ll be out a small game rifle. Hmm, what to do?

I started looking for another .22 bolt rifle: a nice one. I really like holding and using traditional wood and blue steel rifles. I searched for Ruger 77/22s, Winchester 52s, Remington 541s and Anschutz 54s. Wow, have prices for nice examples really popped. Then I recalled how fun it was using that semi-auto 552. Why not a semi-auto? I spied a Weatherby Mark XXII – pretty rifle. But, I wanted something made in the USA. Then I saw it again - for-what-must-be-the-ten-thousandth-time - the featured rifle on the top of every RIMFIRECENTRAL web page – that drop dead gorgeous 10/22! That sparked a vision for a build. If I’d pay between $1,500 to $2,500 for a very nice old bolt gun, I could build a really nice 10/22 sporter. However, a custom stock of that RFC Ultimate’s quality would be more than I’d dare to carry into the field. After much searching I stumbled across Ruger’s Custom Shop and a TALO Distributor Exclusive that will make for a ready-made starting point.

Today I ordered model number 31157. It provides a traditional sporter stock from AA Grade Fancy French Walnut. It’s a good starting point to begin my "build" of a 10/22 small game rifle. The sparkles of a plan are forming with a custom barrel, customized steel receiver and trigger guard ideas. This is going to be fun!
 
#3 · (Edited)
I've already run into one stumbling block. I would like to be able to use a steel receiver that is not made of stainless steal.
Is there a readily available source?
Not that I am aware of. Kingston Armory used to make non stainless steel receivers. But they are gone.
Imho the steel receiver would be a bit heavy for a small game gun. But to each his own.

Here is my French Walnut, with a Green Mountain Running Boar Barrel, and some other goodies Monsieur Depardieu.
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#4 ·
Toomany22s,

Very nice! It appears that you've added a supressor? If so, whose? And, what's the length of your Green Mtn. barrel?

Since deciding to go the 10/22 route I have been searching throughout RFC extensive posts. I did hit on Kingston posts, seeing that they went out of business awhile ago, 2018ish? To eventually achieve the cosmetic effect I'm ultimately going for may require a special order. If I can't find a non-stainless-steel steel receiver, so be it. I suspect the receiver may be the final component.

I'm unconcerned about the minimal additional weight a steel receiver would add. This additional weight is easily offset by my preference of using a small single power 4X scope. Plus, I'm still a reasonably fit big guy - 6'2" 190. I should be more fit. I easily should drop the weight of two or 3 rifles from my chassis. Huh, I wonder how many steel receivers dropping 10lbs to 15lbs from my midrif is equivalent to? 😉 This is good inspiration to start now getting in shape again for this Fall. So, carrying old school wood & steel that's a few pounds heavier than "tacti-light" has never been my concern. My first hunting preference is upland. I regularly cover 5+ miles in hilly PA toting an unslung 20g, my Single Six, binos, water for me & the hound, first aid kit, and 16 shot shells. Hunting squirrels in the woods is by far a much less physically demanding excursion, often involving a nap. 🙂
 
#5 ·
#6 ·
Re: Steel Receiver.I didn’t mean too heavy to carry, I am concerned about balance, and as you can see I like a muzzle heavy rifle. The GM RB is 24 inches long , a std taper barrel with the last 6 inches being a bull barrel.
For my shooting skills, front end inertia is a big friend . Be that , as it may, imho there is no reason that a 1022 needs a steel receiver other than aesthetics. I am quite certain that aluminum receivers are as functionally accurate as steel, and that the oem receiver is as functionally accurate as aftermarket receivers. That being said, yes I too would like a high polish blued all steel 1022 , but alas I don’t know anyone who makes them.
 
#7 ·
Re: Steel Receiver.I didn’t mean too heavy to carry, I am concerned about balance, and as you can see I like a muzzle heavy rifle. The GM RB is 24 inches long , a std taper barrel with the last 6 inches being a bull barrel.
For my shooting skills, front end inertia is a big friend . Be that , as it may, imho there is no reason that a 1022 needs a steel receiver other than aesthetics. I am quite certain that aluminum receivers are as functionally accurate as steel, and that the oem receiver is as functionally accurate as aftermarket receivers. That being said, yes I too would like a high polish blued all steel 1022 , but alas I don’t know anyone who makes them.
You nailed the reason. It is purely for an aesthetic goal. To do what I want to do to meet my aesthetic objective will require a receiver made of steel. For my build I believe the balance will be just fine, if not improved a bit, with a heavier steel receiver. Certainly steel is not required for excellent performance. That has been well established with 10/22s since 1964.

I like the look of this full size stock with a longer barrel than the 18.5" stock barrel. I'd love to see a picture of your rifle in better light, focus and with a less cluttered background. There appears to be a lot of detail with your Green Mtn. barrel that is difficult to see from those photo's.
 
#8 ·
#9 ·
#14 ·
Nice thing about the 10/22 is that you can do your build, get it up and running, all the while keeping yer nose in the wind for that steel receiver.
 
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#19 ·
My phone just rang from my local gun shop informing that "my rifle is in." That was faster than expected. The order went out on Monday this week. Fingers crossed that I hit the wood lottery. I know it will be pretty, but will it be really pretty?
 
#22 ·
Here's the way it came. It has a nice straight grain which is typical of French Walnut. It appears that this was stocked with a Model 21196 stock rather than a model 31157 stock based on the coloring in the images on Ruger's web site: Ruger® 10/22® Sporter Autoloading Rifle Models I was expecting a darker tone to the finish. Is it me or does this stock look like it was intended to be joined with a silver receiver and stainless steel barrel?

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#25 · (Edited)
Heck, if it were about what I "need" I would just keep using my Mossberg 640K to hunt squirrels. The 22WSM can make a big mess of 'em though. No, this one is all about how I can be modified and customized. I decided on the 10/22 action just for a reliable semi-auto. I'm already eye balling this stocks (laser?) cross hatched diamond checkering. The pattern is fine but not all the diamonds are "diamonds." I like the boarder line around the checking but I would like it a touch deeper and I'd prefer the checkering not to be painted or stained black but treated the same as the rest of the stock. These modifications I will wait a season or two on.

For now here's my plan:
  • Acquire rifle ✔
  • Order Kingston receiver ✔
  • Find smith to color case harden receiver, rings, possible other bits ✔
  • Acquire Gloss Black M8 4X Leupold Scope ✔
  • Order McGowen Barrel ✔
    Polished & blued, 21", Threaded w/cap, 11 degree crown, near Factory tapper, 8 straight flutes
  • Acquire M77 Grip Cap ✔
  • Decide on a trigger group supplier - Leaning towards Volquartsen TG2000 - MULLING
 
#26 · (Edited)
I have made good progress towards ordering, gathering parts desired and making some decisions for this reassembly "build." I'm still waffling back and forth on some decisions. I have found a gunsmith, Taylor Gun Works, that does case coloring at lower temperatures more suited for modern 4140 steel. I just haven't decided yet whether to color case the receiver or to go with a polished blue. I think a color case hardened receiver, scope rings, and butt plate would look really good. But, since none of the parts on the bottom of the rifle, the trigger guard/group, plates, or magazines are available with steel bits that would be suitable for color case hardening I think bluing may tie everything together better in the end. People's thoughts would be appreciated.

Here's what I have on order now:
  • 21" McGowen Barrel with a 1:16 Twist, Factory Taper, 8 Straight Flutes, 11 Degree Crown, Threaded & Capped
  • Kingston Armory Steel Receiver
Still to be sourced:
  • Trigger Group. Now considering a black Timney drop in. MULLING
Now Complete:
  • Remove Cheek Swell and slightly soften shape of edges just aft of grip
  • Remove European for-end, replace with American style for-end
  • Refinish stock with RED OAK Stain
Still considering:
  • Add adjustable comb hardware
  • Add adjustable length of pull hardware
 
#30 ·
I have made good progress towards ordering, gathering parts desired and making some decisions for this reassembly "build." I'm still waffling back and forth on some decisions. I have found a gunsmith, Taylor Gun Works, that does case coloring at lower temperatures more suited for modern 4140 steel. I just haven't decided yet whether to color case the receiver or to go with a polished blue. I think a color case hardened receiver, scope rings, and butt plate would look really good. But, since none of the parts on the bottom of the rifle, the trigger guard/group, plates, or magazines are available with steel bits that would be suitable for color case hardening I think bluing may tie everything together better in the end. People's thoughts would be appreciated.

Here's what I have on order now:
  • 21" McGowen Barrel with a 1:19 Twist, Factory Taper, 8 Straight Flutes, 11 Degree Crown, Threaded & Capped
  • Remington Steel Checkered Butt Plate with Screws (TLC needed to fit and finish)
  • Ruger 10/22 Magazines X 3
Still to be sourced:
  • Kingston Armory Steel Receiver
  • Leupold M8 Single 4X Power Scope
  • Trigger Group. Now considering a black Timney drop in.
Seriously Considering Stock modifications:
  • Remove Cheek Swell and slightly soften shape of edges just aft of grip
  • Remove European for-end, replace with American style for-end in Ebony, 11 degree forward cut.
  • Refinish stock with American Black Walnut Stain or other with more red hints (use cut-off for-end tip for color testing) & Truoil
  • Add adjustable comb hardware


The barrel twist rate seems off.
 
#28 ·
So you basically bought a complayint rifle just for the stock?
Yes!

And, it came with extra bits that I will turn into a steel challenge rig.

I've gone all these years without any 10/22s and very soon I will have two. Win, win!
 
#33 ·
I have made good progress towards ordering, gathering parts desired and making some decisions for this reassembly "build." I'm still waffling back and forth on some decisions. I have found a gunsmith, Taylor Gun Works, that does case coloring at lower temperatures more suited for modern 4140 steel. I just haven't decided yet whether to color case the receiver or to go with a polished blue. I think a color case hardened receiver, scope rings, and butt plate would look really good. But, since none of the parts on the bottom of the rifle, the trigger guard/group, plates, or magazines are available with steel bits that would be suitable for color case hardening I think bluing may tie everything together better in the end. People's thoughts would be appreciated.

Here's what I have on order now:
  • 21" McGowen Barrel with a 1:16 Twist, Factory Taper, 8 Straight Flutes, 11 Degree Crown, Threaded & Capped
  • Remington Steel Checkered Butt Plate with Screws (TLC needed to fit and finish)
  • Ruger 10/22 Magazines X 3
Still to be sourced:
  • Kingston Armory Steel Receiver
  • Leupold M8 Single 4X Power Scope
  • Trigger Group. Now considering a black Timney drop in.
Seriously Considering Stock modifications:
  • Remove Cheek Swell and slightly soften shape of edges just aft of grip
  • Remove European for-end, replace with American style for-end in Ebony, 11 degree forward cut.
  • Refinish stock with American Black Walnut Stain or other with more red hints (use cut-off for-end tip for color testing) & Truoil
  • Add adjustable comb hardware
Sir, please keep us posted with progress & pics especially if you modify that stock. I have one of those with very nice figure & grain and built a nice riflle on it. But, I'm a stock nut and am very interested in your modification ideas and your results. I love to see other peoples ideas come to fruition & get inspired to do something out of the ordinary. CHASE THE DREAM & VISION!
I have made good progress towards ordering, gathering parts desired and making some decisions for this reassembly "build." I'm still waffling back and forth on some decisions. I have found a gunsmith, Taylor Gun Works, that does case coloring at lower temperatures more suited for modern 4140 steel. I just haven't decided yet whether to color case the receiver or to go with a polished blue. I think a color case hardened receiver, scope rings, and butt plate would look really good. But, since none of the parts on the bottom of the rifle, the trigger guard/group, plates, or magazines are available with steel bits that would be suitable for color case hardening I think bluing may tie everything together better in the end. People's thoughts would be appreciated.

Here's what I have on order now:
  • 21" McGowen Barrel with a 1:16 Twist, Factory Taper, 8 Straight Flutes, 11 Degree Crown, Threaded & Capped
  • Remington Steel Checkered Butt Plate with Screws (TLC needed to fit and finish)
  • Ruger 10/22 Magazines X 3
Still to be sourced:
  • Kingston Armory Steel Receiver
  • Leupold M8 Single 4X Power Scope
  • Trigger Group. Now considering a black Timney drop in.
Seriously Considering Stock modifications:
  • Remove Cheek Swell and slightly soften shape of edges just aft of grip
  • Remove European for-end, replace with American style for-end in Ebony, 11 degree forward cut.
  • Refinish stock with American Black Walnut Stain or other with more red hints (use cut-off for-end tip for color testing) & Truoil
  • Add adjustable comb hardware
 
#36 ·
This morning pulling the Sox off revealed about 40% removal success. I believe the Sox method inhibited the CitriStrip by absorbing the chemicals. The directions recommend wrapping with plastic. So for today that's what's happening.

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Interestingly, where the finish was removed the wood had more color showing through. This was good to see.
 
#37 ·
Now that the finish is off the reshaping is nearly done. I decided against a Ebony Tip. The Ebony is very expensive and sourcing a small piece has proven too frustrating. So just taking off the European style front and the cheek swell.

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#45 · (Edited)
This is easily the most difficult part for any amateur to not muck up horribly. Much grinding, sanding, re-cutting fitting, and recutting of checking again and repeat to get this M77 Grip Cap to fit. A bit more to go to get the cap to fit snuggly and for the grip and cap profiles to match. The base of the end cap was rounded. Sanded flat and true by hand. Whew!

Still waiting on the steel receiver and new barrel before working on inlet or adding a pillar(s) and bedding.

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