Rimfire Blend

Get some Bore Tech Rimfire Blend - it is specifically made for rim fire guns as there is no need for a copper solvent with 22's.

As to lead, your barrel should not be leading except at the front of the chamber after many, many rounds. When this occurs wrap a small amount of Big 45 Frontier Metal Cleaner around a copper bore brush and run it from the chamber to the muzzle with just a few back and forth movements at the front of the chamber. That should get ALL the lead out with only a very few passes.

George

 

Carbon and lead removal

ammohog

I have been using Ed's Red, without the acetone, since the guy invented it, a long time, on all my weapons. I cast for centerfires.

Stuff has worked great for me. Might want to look at the tests done on it. Does nothing or very very little for copper but I know a lot of guys, including me, that have had excellent results....can make a bunch cheap. We leave the acetone out cause it can screw up a stock.

noremf(George)

 

ammohog

I have been using Ed's Red, without the acetone, since the guy invented it, a long time, on all my weapons. I cast for centerfires.

Stuff has worked great for me. Might want to look at the tests done on it. Does nothing or very very little for copper but I know a lot of guys, including me, that have had excellent results....can make a bunch cheap. We leave the acetone out cause it can screw up a stock.

noremf(George)

George.......ED's red is an all pourpose cleaner which includes shotguns. I believe the acetone is added to remove the plastic wad fouling. I too omit the acetone in my particular "flavor" of red.........gary

 

Personally, I use Hoppes #9 and a bronze brush for a couple passes, patch it dry....then a couple passes with CLP on another bronze brush for a couple passes, patch it dry(to make sure it's clean).....last a bore mop with CLP just to prevent rust.

Sounds like your method is a bit more time consuming, I only spend maybe 20 minutes per rifle cleaning after a day of shooting. My way is maybe not the best way to go, but it works for me.

 

Take a worn bore brush and do a wrap with 'kurly kate' a copper colored pot scrubber, may go by another name...but it looks like a brillo pad made out of copper turnings from a lathe. Cut a patch of it and wrap it on your worn brush (worn or it will be so tight it will be hard to get it started) and give it 10 or so passes.

I was about to give up shooting lead in centerfire bullets until I heard of and tried this method.

Before i learned this I tried the Lewis lead remover and it sucked.

Jerry

 

Thanks for the post! I too, have gone to using a bronze brush with a wrap or two from copper pot cleaners. This combined with some #9 does clean the barrel quickly and accuracy hasn't been better. I really think you are on to something here..... Very Good !!! ...... AH

I haven't tried the "Red" mixture, but some of the old timers at the range use it with the copper wrap. Hummm....... must be something to it ? Next time I'm at the cauldron casting good spells on my Wolf MT, I'll see if I have the right stuff to make a batch.

 

I use automatic transmission fluid. It's cheap and works as good or better than anything else. It also loosens up copper. I put an ear plug in the muzzle and squirt it into the chamber with a turkey baster. Leave it pointed down for a while, then pull the plug and run a patch thru the barrel. Easiest thing I have found.

 

Why would a copper solvent be irrelevant? A lot of 22 bullets have a copper wash. I have often gotten some blue out with the foaming cleaners.

 

Most of these folks shoot lead only bullets, generally of Match Quality and subsonic in speed - ie below 1200fps or thereabouts. None of the Standard Velocity or Match Grade ammo has copper wash/clad. They use a wax as lubrication, which is what the copper provides in the high velocity ammo.

Hope that helps!

 

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduc...ber=991498&cm_mmc=Froogle-_-Shooting - Gun Cleaning-_-PriceCompListing-_-991498

Out of stock currently, but an example of a surfactant product for carbon.

 

Shooter's choice makes a lead removing solvent that works pretty good.
Dip your bore brush in it and run it through the bore like you'd clean normally, I tend to let it sit for about 10 minutes then brush once more and patch dry. Seems to pull the lead out with a minimum of work.

 

Gone back to my old ways:

Having tried a few different suggestions, I have gone back to #9 with a nylon brush or a worn bronze brush for cleaning the carbon ring. The Shooters Choice Lead Remover seems to work well, be sure you follow instructions. It does remove the lead from the chamber/leade area. I did follow the instructions.

I did try the "transsie-mission" eek fluid, and I have mixed emotions about its cleaning abilities. It probably does well with the carbon ring, but I don't want a red bench. lol! At least, you know when your rags are dirty. I probably will continue this experiment on some older, cheaper rifles, known for their carbon ring, and see what the end results are. I did use the trans fluid with the copper pot scrubber on one rifle to see about getting the lead out, and did see some positive results, but not as quickly as the Champions Choice Lead Remover. Let the experiments continue.

 

Having tried a few different suggestions, I have gone back to #9 with a nylon brush...

It's tried and true, and it's what I do. :t

 

I've talked many a pawnbroker down on .22's that had a barrel full of lead,knowing all the while that there was likely good rifling under the lead. Cider vinegar does the trick.Insert an ear plug in the muzzle,fill the bore with Cider vinegar and let it sit muzzle down for a few hours. Pull the plug and watch the filth run out then clean as normal. One caveat, be careful not to get Cider vinegar on the bluing as it can discolor it.

 

I'm with TB - A nylon brush with old #9 and scrub the chamber area and it will remove anything causing a problem. Have an old Stevens 416 that had the cold bore problem and it cured it!

 

I thought I'd throw in my two cents worth. I've found a product called Froglube that is really great for keeping all my various types of guns running their best. It's a non toxic CLP that soaks into the pores of the metal when you heat up your gun and rub it in. As you heat up your gun from shooting, it releases from the pores and keeps things lubed. It doesn't attract grit, it'd 'self cleaning', and it actually smells great! My guns clean up MUCH easier after treating them with Froglube. You can find it at Axelsonsupply.com.

 

Froglube and Blackpowder



Does Froglube work well with blackpowder applications like muzzleloaders?

 

I've read that if you reverse a tight fitting brush while it's still inside the bore, it can "fret" the bore. When you put the brush into the chamber, as it enters, the bristles are forced to lay down a bit to fit inside the bore. When the pass the brush all the way through the bore and pull it back through, the bristles now lay down the other way. But when you try to reverse the brush while it's still in the bore, the tips of the bristles push into the bore, potentially putting an indentation in the bore. If you try this with a brand new brush, you may find it extremely difficult to get the brush to change directions while still inside the bore.

To clean the chamber/leade area in my Anschutz, I dip a brass brush in Hoppes 9, then rotate it as I stroke the leade area. This keeps the bristles pushed down in the same direction all the time. I continue to rotate it as I stroke back and forth, even as I withdraw it.

Just my $.02.

Robert

 

I use a nylon brush with a 50-50 mix of Kroil and Montana Extreme Rimfire solvent then a patch worm until dry. This method works great for me. I even cleaned up a CZ American that looked like it was missing the last 4 inches of rifling with this stuff. :bthumb:

 

Everyone has their favored product for cleaning out a bore.

This works for me to get rid of carbon ring in the chamber. I use a long, one piece pistol rod and a nylon pistol brush. I dip it into Hoppe's #9. This "lubricates the bristles" and is easy to insert and move. I go back and forth with the brush in the chamber area only. I then use dry round patches with a Patchworm and pull through until dry. I was absolutely amazed at what came out just from the chamber cleaning. BTW- This is on three rifles, each with less than 3000 rounds each in them (and bore cleaned after every range session). I then immediately tried some Eezox with the brush. More stuff came out. Now, it is part of my routine.

I am not sure there is any ONE product that will do it all. Try combos yourself and settle on what works for you.

 

Pretty much the same except I use Shooter's Choice Lead Remover instead of Hoppe's.

 

If the carbon ring built up in the chamber leade is still stubborn, get yerself some Iosso or JB Bore paste and a worn brush (I use Iosso and it works, I hear JB works too). Push a patch wet with your preferred solvent down the bore, then put the brush on the rod and wrap a couple of patches around it. Then put a small amount of paste on the patch and short stroke the chamber and leade with the loaded brush. The brushes are very slightly abrasive but break down fast and won't damage anything. Give the chamber a couple dozen strokes then remove the brush and push a wet then dry patch down the bore to clean the paste out. Inspect the chamber/leade to see if there is any ring left. Repeat until the carbon is gone, then carefully clean all of the paste and gunk out of the bore.

I've found that to be a very effective way to remove the carbon ring. The routine I've settled on with a target rifle is pulling a couple of dry patches down the bore with a weed whacker after every 50-100 rounds (and ASAP after shooting so the wax and fouling is still soft), then scrubbing the chamber/leade/bore completely clean after every 500 rounds. Your results may vary!

 

A very good way to control those "First shot fliers". That nasty carbon ring actually kind of resizes the soft lead used in 22 lr bullets. Get rid of iot and most of those nasty fliers go with it.:bthumb:

 

Carbon and Lead Removal

Having tried nearly all of the methods mentioned, with varied success, there is only one thing I would like to add at this time. I seem to have better results when cleaning the bore/chamber at the range right after shooting, no matter what method of cleaning used. Great advice from the participating members !!!!! Thank you all for sharing, and keep posting your "cleaning secrets"! ....... AH

 

Do not over clean your rifle. The carbon ring is not your enemy once it is properly formed. It actually improves accuracy, at least in match grade rifles. It took me several hundred rounds to form the ring in my new Lilja barrel. Seems like Anschutz recommends cleaning every 5,000 rounds.

 

Seems like Anschutz recommends cleaning every 5,000 rounds.

In their latest literature Anschutz recommend a light cleaning with a nylon brush after every shooting session, followed by a thorough clean with a bronze brush and solvent at least every 5,000.

Eley recommend cleaning after use as well.

 

I shoot a lot and 99% of my centerfire rounds are reloads. I also enjoy shooting military surplus rifles that require serious bore cleanings.

Years ago I bit the bullet and purchased an Outers Foul Out III system. It was the best money I ever spent. This system will get every last bit of lead one copper out of the bore. For me the best part is that I no longer spend hours scrubbing the bores and potentially damaging the crowns.

I have two surplus rifles that I nicknamed "the copper mines". There was so much copper in the bore that when I pulled out the stainless steel rod it was brass colored.

I have used the system on barrels that were so heavily leaded that the lands and grooves were indistinguishable. After cleaning the barrel was mirror polished and the rifling was as sharp as the day it left the factory.

 

Rb-17

Tried some RB-17. I am very impressed. It wasn't as fast and easy as I had hoped for, but did an outstanding job on some "keeper" rifles. Such as, the Remington 540X, and the Remington 40X. Now for the "nitty gritty". It took 3 days, at about 2 hours per day, to get all the lead out of the 40X. It shoots much better than before, but still has some accuracy problems, I suspect the stock was bedded for another action. Using RB-17 on the 540X, only took three applications before the paste turned gray-ish, and the accuracy is fantastic. I am really impressed with this product and I can truthfully say it put and end to my lead removal quest. My only regret is that I have sold some rifles that probably could have been "cured" of their accuracy problems if I had only known about this product. I only used a nylon brush and followed instructions. I certainly hope you clean / accuracy freaks take this advice seriously, it is given in good faith. ..... AH

PS: I have no affiliation with RB-17, and I was given some to try by a fellow shooter at the range. Now that, ...... is a good friend. :bthumb:

 

RB-17 is great

 

I have used a 50/50 mix of white vinegar and peroxide with good results. I use this after a day of shooting lead in my revolvers.

 

I have heard that the vinegar and peroxide works great for lead but is dangerous as
The lead is turned into something easily removed but is hazardous and can remove bluing. Also it only takes two minutes before you have to clean it out. I might try it though.

 

I have heard that the vinegar and peroxide works great for lead but is dangerous as
The lead is turned into something easily removed but is hazardous and can remove bluing. Also it only takes two minutes before you have to clean it out. I might try it though.
Also carb cleaner works for carbon but again be careful with it.