Have you tried heating it with a soldering iron?
If it has loc-tite on it, the iron should break it loose.

 

To be on the safe side, the soldering iron is a good suggestion if you have one. It looks like it is sticking up enough to maybe get a pair or pliers on to turn.

Did the screw break when you were turning it, or was it already broken?

 

Tried the pliers, not enough to grab onto.

 

You should be able to get that screw out from the looks of it.
You might try needle nose vice grips if there is enough to lock on.
I have been able to remove screws like that with a small cold chisel and hammer. It takes a delicate hand, tapping the screw at an angle to loosen it.
Your idea of cutting a slot in the screw sounds like a good one. You might be able to do it with a dremel tool and a cut off wheel but again be very careful.
Good luck and keep us posted.

 

That thing looks to me like the screw had been stripped and then JB Welded in. Then broke off trying to get it back out.
You might be better off to just drill and tap a new 8-32 screw in.

 

Go with the PB Blaster, WD40 won't do much for you here. I would try to cut a slot in the top and use a tight fitting screw driver.
Good luck and let us know what happens.

Mals

 

Go with the PB Blaster, WD40 won't do much for you here. I would try to cut a slot in the top and use a tight fitting screw driver.
Good luck and let us know what happens.

Mals

That is what I would do.

 

When I mentioned pliers, I was thinking about the locking needle nose pliers that Groundhogsniper mentioned. Electrical pliers might work too since they have that flat nose which will allow you to get very close to the receiver portion.

If you try to cut a groove in it with a Dremel, tape the heck out of everything around it. Put tape where you wouldn't even think you will need tape. As many layers are you can do. It is easy for the Dremel to jump off and hit your barrel or receiver. The barrel doesn't look the best, but I would take the barrel off before I did it.

Like Oldblades mentioned, it could also be JB Welded in. There is a reason it is not coming out easily. Crossthreaded? But, I think it would come out anyway if it was crossthreaded since the receiver is aluminum.

Did you break the screw head off? If so, it was probably stripped, and they used something to glue it in place.

It could be red loctite. If so, try the heat. You never know. If you don't have a soldering iron, you should be able to find a cheapie one locally. (Harbor Freight perhaps)

 

When I mentioned pliers, I was thinking about the locking needle nose pliers that Groundhogsniper mentioned. Electrical pliers might work too since they have that flat nose which will allow you to get very close to the receiver portion.

If you try to cut a groove in it with a Dremel, tape the heck out of everything around it. Put tape where you wouldn't even think you will need tape. As many layers are you can do. It is easy for the Dremel to jump off and hit your barrel or receiver. The barrel doesn't look the best, but I would take the barrel off before I did it.

Like Oldblades mentioned, it could also be JB Welded in. There is a reason it is not coming out easily. Crossthreaded? But, I think it would come out anyway if it was crossthreaded since the receiver is aluminum.

Did you break the screw head off? If so, it was probably stripped, and they used something to glue it in place.

It could be red loctite. If so, try the heat. You never know. If you don't have a soldering iron, you should be able to find a cheapie one locally. (Harbor Freight perhaps)

I didnt do this, it came to me just like this. He took the scope bases off before he shipped the rifle.

If it were loc-tite I'm assuming I'd see some residue in the threads correct?

 

if you can get a slot cut into it somehow, an appropriate bit mounted in a drillpress chuck will provide good down pressure with the mechanical aid of the drill press
remove stock from receiver clamp receiver in padded drill vice, then clam drill vice to table

lower chuck with attach bit, use drill press to apply pressure and manually try to spin chuck in reverse, WARNING do not use motor, manually rotate, if hand strength wont get it, try wrapping a strap wrench to spindle

doing it this way, mechanical advantages are huge so be carefull

soaking overnight in PB Blaster or Kroil can not hurt, applying heat with a solder pen can not hurt either

goodluck

 

Good luck with the screw.

OH, and be sure and let the seller know just how pleased you are with his work!

 

This is what I used as a tradesman.

http://www.lowes.com/pd_61786-281-5...sy+out+screw+extractor&pl=1&currentURL=?Ntt=Easy+out+screw+extractor&facetInfo=

The other method is to file a flat surface on the screw and accurately center punch the center. Then drill out the screw the size of the tap screw. Then use a bottoming tap to chase out the material in the threads.

 

go with the least chance of damage first and then work towards the more drastic.

worst case, drill it out.

best case, soldering iron.

 

how about a reverse drill bit ? you can get them at true value, ace hardware and some napa auto stores. get one a size smaller or so if possible and center punch it and drill it (in reverse) we use this technique at work all the time and i have used it on my FJ40 with broken of rusted bolts. as you drill it heats up and usually spins right out. and yes PB blaster is a must in my view and heat doesn't hurt either. what ever you do good luck!

 

:t On the reverse drill in a drill press- I bought the over size tap and screws from Brownell's and re-tapped the stripped hole and the others while I was at it..

 

You may want to try to screw it out from the inside with another screw while turning from the top. As was said above. Flatten the top drill out the screw and chase the extra material out of the hole. Good luck!

 

I'd read the pot metal repair thread a few posts down....You may need it.

 

Got it out, did the dremel/screwdriver trick.

Worked like a charm!

 

Awesome! Glad it worked out for you. Was it hard to turn once you cut the slot in it?

 

It took some time, and it was luck that it came out...but it did come out. Not hard to turn, but I couldnt cut a slot thin enough to get a good screwdriver inside.

 

Yeah..........

Another RFC gunsmith in the making.

Congrats.

 

How are the treads. I would chase the threds with a tap befor I trusted it again. If you do not have a tap set a single tap is cheap and then you have it forever.

Not knowing how that one got stuck I would chase all four. Glad things worked out.:bthumb: