I agree. Not really needed, but it might be helpful for some. I eliminated the possibility of trapped struts long ago by just removing the stupid cross pin.

 

Interesting because that cross pin captures the long leg of the sear spring? You gun still works with the cross pin out ? I was shooting in a silhouette match once and the pin drifted slightly to the right , releasing the sear spring leg, and effectively shut the gun down. I was under the impression that the spring had to tension the sear for consistent engagement to the hammer notch ?

I also agree that the block they are selling is not needed.

 

it is somewhat common for people (i did it) to get the hammer strut pinned behind the cross bar or against the side (in both cases the end of the strut missed the indention in the mainspring). getting it apart when it happens isnt real easy.

if it is wedged against the side, simply pointing the muzzle up helps straighten it out.

this fix would help, but once you understand how the strut fits into the mainspring, you wont ever have the problem again

 

it is somewhat common for people (i did it) to get the hammer strut pinned behind the cross bar or against the side (in both cases the end of the strut missed the indention in the mainspring). getting it apart when it happens isnt real easy.

if it is wedged against the side, simply pointing the muzzle up helps straighten it out.

this fix would help, but once you understand how the strut fits into the mainspring, you wont ever have the problem again

Maybe, if you READ your manual, you will be able to discover how the "mystery" is overcome.

 

This is a non-problem. Hold the barrel vertical in the air and pop the barrel muzzle with a nylon mallet. Works every time. I mean every time.

 

This is a non-problem. Hold the barrel vertical in the air and pop the barrel muzzle with a nylon mallet. Works every time. I mean every time.

That's for dang sure. I also read that post on another forum. The guys a wannabe, non-degree holding engineer, that had a bunch of these blocks machined up that are attached using the 3/32 inch diameter pin below the sear pin. the block keeps the bottom end of the hammer strut away and forward of the sear pin. He's only received 4 views to his post, so what does that tell ya?

Just another of, two now , solutions to a problem that doesn't exist. How difficult is it to understand that one only needs to tilt the muzzle up slightly, when installing the mainspring housing assembly, so that the hammer strut swings backward, just a little bit so it can become captured in the mainspring cup?

Geeeez! It don't get any more simpler than that. None of these "Rube Goldberg" gimmicks are more viable than just learning how to do it properly, or worth the time to consider.

 

SGW,
Exactly what I thought. But I could not put it to words with you're flair

 

Just rocking back the pistol to replace take down lever, you can feel the resistance if the end of the strut fell into place. No resistance, try again, or hold the barrel up and peer in to be sure the strut is centered.

Not a problem once understood.

VH man:

 

Just rocking back the pistol to replace take down lever, you can feel the resistance if the end of the strut fell into place. No resistance, try again, or hold the barrel up and peer in to be sure the strut is centered.

Not a problem once understood.

VH man:

If there is no spring force as you swing the MHA into the grip, put the gun in the barrel-vertical position. (Often just doing this does the trick). Then whack the muzzle with a rubber mallet. You will find that you now have the proper spring tension and can complete proper reassembly of the gun.

 

Innovative! Good for Him!

You know, throwing cold water on this guy's innovative idea is very undeserved. Obviously, a large number of Mark-series pistol owners have struggled with the field strip procedure for these pistols for years. This guy who invented the Hammer Strut Support has demonstrated some truly innovative thinking. Maybe some pistol owners don't need it, but it appears many will benefit. Good for the inventor! I ordered one simply because I like to support creative innovators like him...:t

 

>>Good for the inventor! I ordered one simply because I like to support creative innovators like him...<<

I'm with you! For some reason people like to poo-poo new inventions as unnecessary, but for short money it does alleviate a problem, whether real or imagined. I installed my fourth one just today, and it took all of a few minutes, and I never have to look and see if that %%%%ed hammer strut is swinging free or not. Oh, and if Ruger had been smart they would have incorporated something like this into the original design!

 

For some reason people like to poo-poo new inventions as unnecessary...

Yep, there are those who act upon a good idea, and there are those who have never had an idea in the first place. This guy who fashioned the Hammer Strut Support deserves credit for taking action. Obviously there was an issue with the Mark series pistols, or Ruger wouldn't have come out with the Mark IV.

 

You do realize this thread is over two years old and that this subject has been beat to death a number of times ?

There were two threads on the subject, and only a few posts in each...not exactly beaten to death. Is that the extent of your input, or do you have a point to make?

 

I just installed one on my Mk III Target Competition. Buying and installing the HSS gave me the motivation to take the pistol down for the first time. Wow, what a lot of crud inside! (I bought used, no idea of the round count, and have put 3-400 rounds through it.).

I'm retired Army, always clean my weapons after I shoot, can't help it. But due to the reputation of the Mk III for difficulty of re-assembly I only ever cleaned the bore and what I could reach with Q-tips and pipe cleaners. Much happier now that I can take it all the way down to clean it (also installed the BAM bushing while I was at it).

Also discovered while I had it apart that one of the ears on the recoil rod/spring assembly was broken. So it may not be necessary for the experts, but for a first time Ruger Mk owner like me it was definitely worth my time and the few bucks it cost me.

As for the thread being 2 years old, so what. I just joined RFC and have been reading threads way older than that with a lot of good information. No reason why good discussions can't be revived and current members allowed to participate.

 

You will find that taking down your MKll isn’t all that difficult once you get the hang of it. And not having to worry about the hammer strut getting hung up on the cross pin will make it all the easier. Just remember to have the safety ON when disassembling and assembling. And as for the recoil spring assembly, I’ve replaced them on my three Mkll’s with Volquartsen’s offering. I tried it in my MKl but the bolt was getting hung up, so off it came.

For a good source of parts go to wirthweinguns.com. I’ve had good success in dealing with them so far.

 

as for the recoil spring assembly, I've replaced them on my three Mkll's with Volquartsen's offering

On order from Brownells!

 

You are correct sir..... brain freeze on my part!

 

I’ve never had a problem with the first three MK series of pistols as far disassembly and reassembly. Learning to do the process by following the book as it is written. I will say that some people do not make the connection as to why they do each of the steps. I have always thought Ruger could have gone a step further in the manual in explaining the why’s and why not’s of the process. I know a lot of good shooters who understand the whole marksmanship process very well but never should own more than a 4 in 1 screw driver and a can of Bandaids (oop’s Bandaids don’t come in can’s anymore). I think it’s a good thing to keep threads reactivated as long as they are positive and helping to new comers.

 

Reassembly wasn't hard at all once I tried it. It was the Mk III's reputation for being so difficult that made me procrastinate. So the HSS and BAM bushing were the motivation to finally do it. But having installed the HSS, whether it's absolutely needed or not, it's a simple low cost add on that makes reassembly a little bit easier. I'm keeping mine installed, don't really care what the purists think.

 

I can see where this would keep the hammer strut (the dangler) from getting stuck behind the grip brace. If that happens to you often then this would be a workable solution.

 

As a relative novice with a Ruger MK II , after reading some comments about taking one down, I was terrified to even think about taking it apart to clean properly. I have respect for you guys with decades of experience doing it. It takes lots of times to grasp the skill in any endeavor. I believe the block would help the novice get over the apprehension to even begin to learn.

 

May be a Rube Goldberg to you. I dont haven a problem w/ mine but dozens have sold the gun to get rid of the Rube Goldberg. Ruger even reengineered the whole pistol to eliminate the Rube Goldberg (Mark IV).

 

I just installed a hammer strut support in my Mark III, it's really no big deal to reposition the strut but the visual is annoying. When I put the Volquartzen trigger upgrade in the gun I ixnay'd the magazine disconnector. The gun is super easy to disassemble/reassemble now.

 

I put one in each of my MK II's & my MK III. Necessary ? ...no . Helpful ? ...yes .