Always heard great things about Ed's Red, so I made some last night, just a 50/50 mix of ATF and Acetone. Shook it up real good so that it was well mixed, went to the basement later in the evening, separated, went down this morning, separated. Is this normal??
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wkd
Ed's Red is equal parts of Dexron III ATF, kerosene, mineral spirits, and acetone. I have used it for years without the acetone and have never had it separate. I have heard that the newer water based mineral spirits will not work well so remember to use the petroleum based mineral spirits.
The ATF and acetone formula is supposed to be an excellent penetrating oil.
The ATF and acetone formula is supposed to be an excellent penetrating oil.
This is an excellent video on how to mix it. I've used it for about 4 years now. Nothing beats Ed's Red.
Ed's Red
Used since it was invented by "Ed" Harris and is as good as any and better then most.
One word of caution though. If you use it to clean the bore and don't take the action out of the stock you don't want to put any Acetone in it as it will screw up a bunch of finishes. Only needed to get rid of the plastic residue from shot shells anyway.
Personally I leave it out.
Also can add lanolin for....
"Addition of lanolin to ER is optional, because the cleaner works perfectly well and gives adequate corrosion protection and lubrication without it. Inclusion of lanolin makes the cleaner easier on the hands, increases its lubricity and film strength and improves corrosion protection if firearms, tools or equipment will be routinely exposed to salt air, water spray, or corrosive urban atmospheres.
I recommend the lanolin included if you intend to use the cleaner as a protectant for long term storage or for a "flush" after water cleaning of black powder firearms or those fired with military chlorate primers. This is because lanolin has a great affinity for water and readily emulsifies so that the bore can be wiped of residual moisture, leaving a protective film. If you inspect your guns and wipe them down twice yearly, you can leave out the lanolin and save about $10 per gallon."
noremf(George)
Used since it was invented by "Ed" Harris and is as good as any and better then most.
One word of caution though. If you use it to clean the bore and don't take the action out of the stock you don't want to put any Acetone in it as it will screw up a bunch of finishes. Only needed to get rid of the plastic residue from shot shells anyway.
Personally I leave it out.
Also can add lanolin for....
"Addition of lanolin to ER is optional, because the cleaner works perfectly well and gives adequate corrosion protection and lubrication without it. Inclusion of lanolin makes the cleaner easier on the hands, increases its lubricity and film strength and improves corrosion protection if firearms, tools or equipment will be routinely exposed to salt air, water spray, or corrosive urban atmospheres.
I recommend the lanolin included if you intend to use the cleaner as a protectant for long term storage or for a "flush" after water cleaning of black powder firearms or those fired with military chlorate primers. This is because lanolin has a great affinity for water and readily emulsifies so that the bore can be wiped of residual moisture, leaving a protective film. If you inspect your guns and wipe them down twice yearly, you can leave out the lanolin and save about $10 per gallon."
noremf(George)
Charcoal lighter fluid can be substituted for mineral sprits. Nitrocellulose is extremely soluble in acetone or MEK (methyl ethyl ketone), which is the pvc pipe CLEANER sold in hardware stores. I have used straight MEK for years. I don't know of a finish it won't mess up except bluing maybe. I take all plastic and painted parts off before using it. Many aluminum alloy parts are clear coated which is vulnerable to organic solvents. Thus I would not use ER, acetone or MEK on airweight revolvers or pistols
Ed's REd at Brownells
Checked and yes they have it. On sale for $3.99 for a 4 oz bottle.....AND $15.95 FOR HAZMAT SHIPPING!!! No thanks, will go to the shop and make my own tomorrow! Sure my boss has all the stuff in the chem cabinet...
Checked and yes they have it. On sale for $3.99 for a 4 oz bottle.....AND $15.95 FOR HAZMAT SHIPPING!!! No thanks, will go to the shop and make my own tomorrow! Sure my boss has all the stuff in the chem cabinet...
Technicsau
I don't use the acetone as it eats plastics and paint.
If you don't like the red colour in the ATF ,use a good thin hydralic oil effectively the same oil. instead of acetone you can use Toluene or known as Toluol
I have mixed with mine some carburator cleaner I believe this contains Naptah
I work in our local two refineries and this is what we use for decarb. of glass ware.
Lanolin,is a good preservative addition.
Jv
I don't use the acetone as it eats plastics and paint.
If you don't like the red colour in the ATF ,use a good thin hydralic oil effectively the same oil. instead of acetone you can use Toluene or known as Toluol
I have mixed with mine some carburator cleaner I believe this contains Naptah
I work in our local two refineries and this is what we use for decarb. of glass ware.
Lanolin,is a good preservative addition.
Jv
Be careful...
you may end up mixing up a concoction which produces toxic fumes and having a very bad affect on your health.
you may end up mixing up a concoction which produces toxic fumes and having a very bad affect on your health.
Why?
I have read about some of these home made combinations before. I seem to recall this one being all the rage with the AR enthusiasts for a while. Maybe I am missing something. I just cannot see a reason to play junior chemist with so many proven products available. I have had good luck with Shooters Choice bore cleaner and Break Free CLP. Hoppes and Outers both offer some good products as well. Does Eds Red provide something that the professional chemist's products do not? Not judging just asking.
I have read about some of these home made combinations before. I seem to recall this one being all the rage with the AR enthusiasts for a while. Maybe I am missing something. I just cannot see a reason to play junior chemist with so many proven products available. I have had good luck with Shooters Choice bore cleaner and Break Free CLP. Hoppes and Outers both offer some good products as well. Does Eds Red provide something that the professional chemist's products do not? Not judging just asking.
The "Why" Thing
wkd,
I can see that if you need something in quantity that this could be a more affordable solution. (pun intended, sorry, very bad) Sorry about the title "Why" confusion. I meant to ask why one would use it in place of proven bore cleaners, lubricants, preservatives, etc. that are typically used in rather small amounts. Safariland is indeed proud of Break Free and I would not want to pay for the amount it must take to clean and coat larger pieces of equipment like presses etc. Now that I think about the question "why" not on presses, I don't understand what it would hurt either.
Thanks, RvrRnr
wkd,
I can see that if you need something in quantity that this could be a more affordable solution. (pun intended, sorry, very bad) Sorry about the title "Why" confusion. I meant to ask why one would use it in place of proven bore cleaners, lubricants, preservatives, etc. that are typically used in rather small amounts. Safariland is indeed proud of Break Free and I would not want to pay for the amount it must take to clean and coat larger pieces of equipment like presses etc. Now that I think about the question "why" not on presses, I don't understand what it would hurt either.
Thanks, RvrRnr
Ed's Red is great I shoot mostly home cast bullets in my center fire guns when I am done shooting I run one wet soppy patch of Ed's Red down the bore. The next time I go shooting I swab the barrel and chambr and I am good to go.
The acetone is the mix to remove plastic wading in shotgun barrels so if you don't shotguns it really isn't needed but if you like it keep it your mix. I like lanolin in my mix but is just me. There are lots ways to customize Ed's Red to your liking. Here is a link to a page on homemade gun cleaning supplies. http://www.frfrogspad.com/homemade.htm
WD 40 is different story it works fine if you remove all the excess after applying it. I shoot cap and ball revolvers a lot after giving them a water bath I blow off with air hose them down with WD40 and remove the excess worked great now a days I brush on Ed's Red instead. If you had nice rifle and used WD40 in the barrel I think llit would leave a build up after a while. But that's me typing. I guess just use what works for you.
The acetone is the mix to remove plastic wading in shotgun barrels so if you don't shotguns it really isn't needed but if you like it keep it your mix. I like lanolin in my mix but is just me. There are lots ways to customize Ed's Red to your liking. Here is a link to a page on homemade gun cleaning supplies. http://www.frfrogspad.com/homemade.htm
WD 40 is different story it works fine if you remove all the excess after applying it. I shoot cap and ball revolvers a lot after giving them a water bath I blow off with air hose them down with WD40 and remove the excess worked great now a days I brush on Ed's Red instead. If you had nice rifle and used WD40 in the barrel I think llit would leave a build up after a while. But that's me typing. I guess just use what works for you.
Acetone is noted for causing cancer so I do not use it period. It also damages finishes and will damage aluminum. I would not take a chance on it etching the interior of the bore either.
I have been using 50/50 mix of Kerosene and transmission fluid to clean out trigger assemblies or other hard to get at spots or stripped actions. I admit the transmission fluid probably is not necessary as the kerosene will flush out powder residue. The only think the transmission fluid is good for is that it will prevent rusting until you can dry out the action slightly and then oil it and also grease the pressure points.
Of course not 1 person in a thousand ever greases pressure points and as a result their guns wear out far quicker because of it. The mention of greasing pressure points usually causes mass hysteria as people believe that one small dab of grease will make their guns explode like an atomic bomb and they will disappear in a red puff of mist. So far 50 years plus of using grease never caused me a problem and kept my guns from wearing out long before my buddies guns were worn out basket cases.
For cleaning out powder fouling and copper deposits I use the old standby Hoppe's NO. 9. It still does a great job.
I have been using 50/50 mix of Kerosene and transmission fluid to clean out trigger assemblies or other hard to get at spots or stripped actions. I admit the transmission fluid probably is not necessary as the kerosene will flush out powder residue. The only think the transmission fluid is good for is that it will prevent rusting until you can dry out the action slightly and then oil it and also grease the pressure points.
Of course not 1 person in a thousand ever greases pressure points and as a result their guns wear out far quicker because of it. The mention of greasing pressure points usually causes mass hysteria as people believe that one small dab of grease will make their guns explode like an atomic bomb and they will disappear in a red puff of mist. So far 50 years plus of using grease never caused me a problem and kept my guns from wearing out long before my buddies guns were worn out basket cases.
For cleaning out powder fouling and copper deposits I use the old standby Hoppe's NO. 9. It still does a great job.
People that have never used it sure seem to know a lot about it....
I've used it for 20 years and never had a problem with it. Must be a miracle
I've used it for 20 years and never had a problem with it. Must be a miracleBeing basically lazy I just go get the Hoppe's and a can of oil or light grease depending on the type of gun. No fuss no muss easy it's already usable and I trust it. I've monitored friends that make their own lubes and cleaners and mine work just as well without the hoopla of making new stuff.
Naptha, Stodard's solvent, white spirits, mineral turpentine and odorless mineral spirits are all forms of mineral spirits. They come in a wide range of distillation fractions and purity levels from heavy to light. If you don't believe it, compare the CAS numbers in the MSDS sheets. Or simply look at the Wikipedia entry for white spirits, which seems to be accurate. Odorless spirits start as regular mineral spirits and the shorter hydrocarbons are removed. They're the ones that evaporate to become airborne more easily and are inhaled to provide an odor. They also can help attack some things faster as a solvent, so there is some degree of trade-off here.
Acetone vapors are known to cause CNS damage over time if you are exposed to them too much. MEK is worse. TCE was even worse, when you could still get it. When I was young and latex paints were uncommon, the fact house and wall painters started having nervous system problems as they aged was common knowledge, and that would mostly have been from mineral spirits and turpentine. So enough exposure to about anything can get to you. I just don't think most of us are at risk to get that much exposure from cleaning guns unless we do it professionally.
Acetone helps Ed's Red penetrate fouling as well as softening shotgun wad LDPE. If you are not cleaning shotguns, you can replace a quarter to half the mineral spirits with Kroil to speed up penetration, but it's no longer as inexpensive doing that. You can add and ounce of tea nut oil or wintergreen oil to the same effect, but, again, it adds cost.
I've left field stripped 1911 parts sitting in Ed's Red for up to a couple of weeks, and the caked-on fouling gradually turns to a sort of sludge that flows toward the bottom of the container over time. In a rimfire, the best effect will be had from plugging the bore and filling it and letting it sit for a day or more before patching it out. Enough penetration will sometimes let you patch out metal fouling mechanically. It can just break loose and come out on the patch. For that reason, if you clean with Kroil, giving it time to work makes a difference.
Acetone vapors are known to cause CNS damage over time if you are exposed to them too much. MEK is worse. TCE was even worse, when you could still get it. When I was young and latex paints were uncommon, the fact house and wall painters started having nervous system problems as they aged was common knowledge, and that would mostly have been from mineral spirits and turpentine. So enough exposure to about anything can get to you. I just don't think most of us are at risk to get that much exposure from cleaning guns unless we do it professionally.
Acetone helps Ed's Red penetrate fouling as well as softening shotgun wad LDPE. If you are not cleaning shotguns, you can replace a quarter to half the mineral spirits with Kroil to speed up penetration, but it's no longer as inexpensive doing that. You can add and ounce of tea nut oil or wintergreen oil to the same effect, but, again, it adds cost.
I've left field stripped 1911 parts sitting in Ed's Red for up to a couple of weeks, and the caked-on fouling gradually turns to a sort of sludge that flows toward the bottom of the container over time. In a rimfire, the best effect will be had from plugging the bore and filling it and letting it sit for a day or more before patching it out. Enough penetration will sometimes let you patch out metal fouling mechanically. It can just break loose and come out on the patch. For that reason, if you clean with Kroil, giving it time to work makes a difference.
colt45sa, that's a great site - FrFrog. It just caused me to search a bit (ya know how the surf carries you along ;-p ) and I found this site -> http s://www.tipsbulletin.com/homemade-citrus-cleaner/
DIY Citrus Cleaner recipes sound promising. And a bit less toxic ;-) I haven't followed thru with thoughts generated there but I'm sure there are more 'interesting things' to come.
DIY Citrus Cleaner recipes sound promising. And a bit less toxic ;-) I haven't followed thru with thoughts generated there but I'm sure there are more 'interesting things' to come.
There is a bit more to the story than Ed's red was created by a guy named Ed Harris. The original formula is called Frankford Arsenal Bore Cleaner #18 or Hatcher's formula and was designed by Lt. Col. Julian Hatcher who was over the Springfield Armory in 1919 having worked on resolving the issues with early 1903s. He later was the Chief of small arms of the US Army Ordnance Department and helped work through early production Garand issues and retired a Major General after WWII in 1946. He became the technical Editor for American Rifleman after retiring from the military and was an active CMP and NRA member until his passing in 1963. The original formula called for Turpentine, Pratts Astral Oil, Sperm Oil (whale oil was an early transmission fluid) and acetone. This was based on the chemistry of having two polar solvents and two non-polar solvents so it would effectively remove a large variety of different chemical compounds.
Today turpentine is available but costly, I still use it but the mineral spirits is a less expensive and less smelly option.
Pratt's Astral Oil was a highly refined and cleaned Kerosene so effectively K1 is a direct replacement.
Sperm Whale oil was used as an early transmission fluid but is unavailable today for obvious reasons. ATF is one option but Lube Guard is a more direct replacement for Sperm Oil and what I use:
www.lubegard.com
Acetone remains unchanged.
The original formula is still one of the best for powder fouling, cleaning up behind corrosive primers, and removing lead and copper fouling within normal limits. For heavier copper I'll use a little sweets 7.62 and some JB bore paste but it isn't usually needed with regular cleanings between usage.
Today turpentine is available but costly, I still use it but the mineral spirits is a less expensive and less smelly option.
Pratt's Astral Oil was a highly refined and cleaned Kerosene so effectively K1 is a direct replacement.
Sperm Whale oil was used as an early transmission fluid but is unavailable today for obvious reasons. ATF is one option but Lube Guard is a more direct replacement for Sperm Oil and what I use:
Automatic Transmission Fluid Protectant - Lubegard
www.lubegard.com
Acetone remains unchanged.
The original formula is still one of the best for powder fouling, cleaning up behind corrosive primers, and removing lead and copper fouling within normal limits. For heavier copper I'll use a little sweets 7.62 and some JB bore paste but it isn't usually needed with regular cleanings between usage.
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