Looks nice. Please update with how it performs over time, and if you try anything else.

Keep in mind with just rubber it will perform far better on shots 1 and 2, than 501, and 502. If it was me, I think I'd put a piece of 1/4" steel as a final backstop. Once you've gone through a few pieces of rubber, I don't think dust would be much of a concern. That way you won't have to worry about it not stopping them anymore after a few hundred shots. When you hear it hitting the steel, replace the rubber :bthumb:

Another idea I've considered is, sand. You could use a single layer of the rubber like you have to make a sturdy container to hold sand. The nice thing about the sand is, it won't deteriorate after a few hundred shots. Your rubber holding the sand will break down, but that can be visibly seen, and won't affect stopping performance (since its just there to hold sand).

 

ksJoe - You are heading down the same thought process I had with a rubber ( fronted at least) box of sand.

I just ran a box of rem subs, a couple dozen aguila sniper subs and a couple of dozen american eagle cheapo plinkers through it.

The math doesn't add up for me. I shot at 35 yards. Everything went through all six layers where at 20'. the rem subs were stopped after four layers.... I don't get it.

I threw a piece of particle board behind the stack and viola! Everything was stopped - still intact and no dust.

The rubber does look like it's taking a beating. The "sand box" idea could be the ticket. I am going to design one with sandwich plates that I can trap a rubber sheet between so it will be easy to change out when it starts leaking too much sand. That may be an after vacation project.

I work at a fab shop, so I will probably make the box from aluminum with the sandwich arrangement on the front end. I would imagine a plywood box would be just as easy.

 

As a target board on the front of the sand box, I've used "blue board" insulation....holds up for many, many rounds....
and it's easy to change.

 

I'm using a rubber "welcome mat"



Variations on a theme

 

One of the ranges I've shot at experimented with boxes of mulched tires for the handgun range. Big plywood boxes full of mulched tires, I don't recall what the front of the box was. Rubber flap? Maybe AKCM remembers more about this.

I think for long rifle the flaps will work but I think when you get to the .223, I'm assuming .223 Remington, there will be enough energy to penetrate a decently thick stack. A light soft point might not go as deep as an FMJ or SMK.

 

Gunsnjeeps - You are correct on the. 223 Remington. I know I will have to reconfigure for that penetrating power increase. I have thought about a couple of hinged flaps that will sit at angles once the bullet has traveled through the mud flap stack.

They would be hinged to swing up after contact with the bullet. Hopefully I can get to a point where all of my projectiles are recaptured for proper recycling/re-use.

calabrian - The blue board sounds good. For my box I will design it to fit both materials and run the same loads through both to see which one is best. (You Italian by the way? I hear Calabria is gorgeous.)

 

(You Italian by the way? I hear Calabria is gorgeous.)

I am , first and foremost, an American.....I'm of Italian heritage.
Calabria is beautiful.....but it's mostly all rock. lol.

 

The problem is small groups.

When several shots get clustered tightly together, a "tunnel" of weakness is left in the mudflap material. Subsequent shots in the same spot penetrate deeper and deeper, and before you know it you have a complete perforation and a hole in the wall behind your bullet trap.

I must say if you insist on this design, you must very frequently check the integrity of the backing material. A little laziness will cost you.

Would also advise the 1/4" steel backstop for such a trap as this.

 

Yeah, it's the repeated hits in the same place that will cause total penetration.

Try something supporting a column of sand. The sand will not only dissipate the momentum but gravity will cause it to settle in the previous shot channel.

Pea gravel will probably last longer and be more effective.

 

An interesting design for a quick and cheap bullet trap. You could also use 3-4 more 12 inch squares with some kind of very light "filler" like foam peanuts between them to act as "baffels inside the box before your final layer of 4 squares. You can then rotate, repair, and/or replace the "baffel plates" as they become worn out.

 

How about using three layers of flap in a composite stack. First layer of flap, then an inch or so of Duct Seal putty, then another couple layers of flap. From what I've seen, beyond 25 yards, a SV .22 cartridge will only penetrate ~1" in GB brand duct seal. Between targets you could just pull the slugs back out or kneed the putty to re-embed them and reduce the risk of multiple shots to the same area penetrating through.

 

I bought one of these so long ago, it was only $25...

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=744831

I have put 1000000000rds thru it with NO issues...I habe installed a couple layers of cardboard in front of it to help hold my paper target(printed off from here) and that also cuts down on noise and lead dust...I have to dump it out after about 1000rds or so due to buildup of lead in the catch channel.

I use it primarily for indoor shooting...I place the trap at one end of my home, under a slightly open window with a small fan blowing outward, then position myself and firearm at opposite end of house(lucky me that upstairs I cen shoot full length of house) and plink away, usually with the window near me open with a fan blowing fresh air onto me.

I have fired multiple guns for hours in this manner and never had an issue.
using subsonic rds or suppressors, the plate steel getting hit is usually louder than the shot being fired. The cardboars helps this and I bet a piece of rubber mudflap would make a huge difference in the sound level decreasing.

 

When I saw the flaps I thought gee I have a bunch of old ashpalt roofing shingles.
That'd probably work pretty good. And it's just leftover scraps.

 

Any baffle, or flap, or whatever you want to call it is going to deteriorate if the bullets pass through it. It will require frequent inspection and maintenance. If you let it go too long, you lose your backstop, and the bullets go...?

I only see two alternatives:

1) A baffle/flap that the bullets do not penetrate. I don't mean it doesn't penetrate all the layers, I mean it does not damage the first layer. That means a piece of steel that is thick enough all your bullet does is scratch the paint off. And it must be angled such that the ricochet is in a captured direction.

2) A media that does not deteriorate with bullets passing through it. That would be sand - probably fine sand. Before the bullet passes, you have sand. After the bullet passes you have sand. The bullet won't change it much. So performance will be consistent over time. The only maintenance will be the front of the container. But unlike the a stop relying on internal baffles, it will be obvious when its time for maintence because the sand will be coming through the front. Gravel would work too, but would over time become sand (that might make it work better or worse - its a change either way, and I'd prefer consistency).

 

I use a 5 gal bucket of sand with a layer or two of rubber roofing on top to hold the sand in. lay the bucket over and shoot thru the lids. easy and cheap to replace the lid. free anywhere they use drywall compound. make sure the sand is dry. stops up to 44 mag-altho 300 gr cast will make it to the bottom of the bucket. I sift out the lead and recast em. I put mine onto an old pushmower frame and can roll it downrange.

 

My setup uses bags of cheapo cat litter from oil spillage . Still works for spills too.

 

It's been a while since I have been on here.

Design update:

After a lot of rounds, it is still holding up. The only draw back is if you have tight groups, the flaps do deteriorate. I find that after a couple hundred rounds, I simply rotate the flaps moving them back in the stack and putting a fresh or fresher flap out front. They turn into the shredded rubber similar to the tire media others have used and mentioned.

I just wanted to state that I went this route because I have wildlife that frequents my yard - when I am not shooting... and I didn't want any lead fragments at all on the ground where they peck, scratch, or generally mill around.

So far so good.

 

Me too which is why i began some time ago to make an effort to capture as much lead as possible at our backyard range.
Many devices tried.
I too totally dislike the 45deg steel traps for the same reasons as you.
Your 'flaps idea is good, have used similar. It works better if you can arrange to have the flaps suspended , about 6" apart, behind the tgt, so they can swing freely. Reeally helps absorb energy, espec with CF loads.

For 22RF i am now using a 1/2"plywood box, 24x24x6 inches, filled with sand.
Have 1000's of rounds into it and it still works great. Early problem was small groups (& HP bullets ! ) tend to make a hole the sand runs out of. Fixed that by placing some rubber sheet (or a mudflap) behind the front side , before you fill it with sand, really helps keep the sand in by acting as a seal-off of sorts. Great for recovering the lead for re-use in casting too. Put a lid over the top to keep the sand dry.
Bob

 

I built one today using old conveyor belting I had. It’s about 1/4” thick. I hung 9 layers from boards at the top, with about 5/8” between each layer. Suspended, not attached to anything at the bottom. High velocity rounds from a rifle 3’ away penetrated 5 layers and no mark on the 6th. However, standard velocity, from 42’, after just a few rounds, were going through 7 layers.
Kind of surprised, thought it would heal itself better. The rounds leave clear holes where they go through