I use 20 caliber pro shot rods.. I also use 22 caliber iosso nylon brushes.. the blue ones.. I prefer them over any of the bronze brushes.. these are the patches I like to use.. and i use them on 20 caliber jags.. you can get them from amazon

 

I use a 17 caliber rod with an adaptor to fit a 22 jag. I use 1" round patches. I push one or two dry patches to get the worst crud out. Then I push a couple of solvent soaked patches. Sometimes I take a Q tip soaked in solvent and run it around the chamber just to make sure it's good and wet. Then I clean the bolt and do other things for 5 to 10 minutes. Then I push dry patches until they come out clean. The last couple of patches are usually pretty clean, so I turn them over and push them through again.

Edit to add: My rifles aren't match rifles. I don't compete. I don't hunt. I just shoot paper and steel for personal enjoyment. I'm not saying my way is best. I clean them after every outing, regardless of round count. This is what I do and my rifles don't seem to complain about it.

 

https://deweyrods.com/?s=rimfire

 

One more tip == don't get too long of a rod. I use the Dewey 32" rod on my VMTR and 1710 Annie

 

FWIW the Bore-Tech .20 caliber brushes are large enough for use on a Cz or Tikka .22 LR bore yet will fit a 5-40 thread rod without an adapter.
Pro-shot .20 caliber brushes are too small for .22 LR.

 

In my CZ 457 Varmint MTRs I leave a Pro-Shot .20 cal. bore mop soaked in Hoppes #9 in the chambers for 15-20 min. then scrub the chambers with a short .17 cal. rod and Pro-Shot .20 cal. nylon brushes. I use a homemade monofilament patch worm for wet/dry patches and/or an OtisTech .17 cal. Ripcord with OtisTech .22 Limited Breach 5-40 thread nylon brushes thru the barrels. I don't use a long rod down the barrels but that's just me.

 

I have a quart of Hoppes #9 from many years ago. Does the H#9 do an adequate job on the carbon ring or do I need to get the C4 that I hear so much hype about?

 

In your processes of cleaning your rifles barrel/action, give attention to the leade area of the barrel. This is the portion of the chamber where the lands/groves begin. Imagine about where the end of the cartridge case will seat in the chamber; this area will need attention. You will get a carbon ring that builds up there and it will appear pretty quick regardless of barrel quality. Use something of your choice to keep that area damp for a few minutes with a carbon loosening agent of your choice. Short stroke that area with a brush vigorously for 20-30 strokes. I usually use a worn bronze brush but nylon is fine. Patch out any remaining residue. If you can, borescope to be sure there's no ring.
Good luck & good shooting!

 

A couple of friends (both have multiple CZ 457s, including in 22LR) suggested the Bore Tech C4 over Hoppes #9 (both have switched to it) - they advised it’s easier to clean and they both let a C4 soaked patch sit for about 10 minutes then push it down the barrel and put the muzzle. One does use Eliminator & a few dry patches followed by a Kroil patch, the other uses Rimfire Blend after that followed by Kroil patch. Both run a couple of dry patches before shooting, then foul the barrel.

Anybody use either of these methods and have recommendations which might be better, and why?

 

I use a similar regimen. Push a patch moisten in C4 through the barrel for first crud removal. Then I push a long Qtip dampened in C4 into the chamber and let it set for 15-30 minutes. Dry patch next. Then, I push a patch saturated in a mixture of MC-7 and Kroil (my preference, but Rimfire Blend may do well too). Let that set for a minute or two, then run 2 dry patches and put it in the safe. I use a ProShot stainless 1-pc rod 36" length in .20 caliber. I also use the ProShot brushes and 1" round patches. Everyone has their own preferred system and products. Buy small bottles of products you want to try and see what YOU feel does best for you.

 

Would 2nd the recommendation of a quality bore guide and a quality cleaning rod of the appropriate diameter and length.

 

Any specific recommendations?

 

Ordered a bunch of cleaning equipment from Pro Tech - Diane there is a such a sweet lady and was patient enough to go through every one of my questions in detail.

C4 from Amazon, Bore Guide from Bore Tech ordered. Now debating between Bore Tech Eliminator and Rimfire Blend… also need to order some Kroil, which should complete my cleaning kit.

Next hill ahead is mounts, rings, scopes, and test ammo… while I do my first cleaning and prep, all before I can send the first few shots down range! Then on to accuracy testing, followed by countless upgrades… all in the unrelentless pursuit of accuracy perfection, which we never achieve! 😭😅

 

New rifle? Give the barrel a good wash out/clean what evr when you first get it. This removes any schwarf no matter how minor from manufacture.
Otherwise you are on the right track.

 

G'day there,
My cleaning regime is
1. blow out the barrel from receiver end with a squirt of canned air.
2.Then spray a Lanolin spray down and use patches that i make out of flannelette. They are 65mm x 30mm.** I have a patchwork cutting board and a patchwork cutting knife. The one with a circular blade (Think of a pizza knife type of thing. I lay out the flanelette no more than two layers thick and cut along large steel ruler.
3.when all looks good I use the wonderful product called G-96 cleaner and a squirt down the barrel and leave it for 1 minute (as per directions) then use swabs to clean it out and finally use a clean swab with G-96 to "preserve' the barrel.
If I have had a large number of rounds fired I will run a bristle brush through first.
I use a bristle brush and occasionally a bronze one if the ammo I use is particularly dirty.
I use a stainless rod and a one piece. I dont like the screw together rods though i have one.

** the size was arrived at by 'trial and error'. Longer they may jam between the jig and barrel and shorter in width are too loose.

I clean my rifles each time they are out no matter hm or how few rounds they have fired.
Hope this is useful to you.

 

It is a case of what works; what I will not do is use a stainless rod Stainless has a high coefficient of friction and is hard enough to cause galling on both stainless and carbon steel. Anyone who has worked with stainless fasteners or pipe fitting can attest to this very undesirable quality.

 

Newbee - Your should go onto UTUBE and look up the Hornaday video's concerning cleaning your rifle. Lots of great information from professionals.

 

It's a tip I heard from the benchrest guys. It seems to make the hoppes soak into the carbon faster than hoppes alone does. I use brass core bronze bristle brushes. For the chamber and throat on a 22 I use a 6mm brush. A quality brush will not damage anything. I like pro shot stuff. A few decades ago jim clark jr and i were having a conversation about various things and i asked him his thoughts on nylon brushes. He responded with "only if you wanna spend all day cleaning." I've never had one hurt anything. And I've used them on some very, very good barrels that would have shown it if there was a problem.

 

I'm more of a "let the chemicals do the work" guy these days. C4, a little wait time while I let a patch soak in the chamber and then a couple more wet ones down the barrel, dry patch a couple times, then CLP patch if I'm storing for a while. Bore scope approved. 👍🏼

 

This, IMO. Less is more.

 

Thanks for the info guys I pick up the same rifle next week excited to try it.

 

I am thinking of a CZ 457 also. I have two cz 452's and a cz 453. You will find the barrel is a tad tight so I would advise going to somewhere like Midwayusa and getting a cleaning rod for a .17 rather than a .22. This may save you a headache. Never really liked the trigger on the CZ's, so if I get one I will probably get a Timney for it. I am on the fence big time for a scope. Arken will be it, but it will used it for .22 benchrest at 50 yds and I do not think I need to spend the extra dollars for the Japanese glass and 6-24 power should be enough. I have an older anschultz with a 36x weaver that I was using 10 years ago, and the increase in magnification did not make that much difference. I also have a 10/22, Kidd stuff throughout that almost outshot the anschultz. Use a SIghtron 6-24 on it.
Anyway, have fun with your new CZ. It will shoot rings around the Savage. I have a Savage also, and my 452's blew it away.

 

I will try a .17 cleaning rod i have on for my 17wsm. I am a big fan of sightron have about 15 of them. Going to put stac 4-20 on the mtr to start off with (grate budget scope) my go up to siii 8-32x56 that's my go to

 

Here's what I clean 457 Varmint with:

1. Bore stix 22 Cal Rimfire 44": .22 CAL RF
2. Bore Guide, CZ 22 cal: Bore Guide - Rimfire
3. Proof Positive 22 Cal Jag: Proof-Positive Bore Stix Jags
4. 1" square patches: Square
5. 22/.223/5.56 Nylon Brush: Nylon Rifle Brushes
6. 22 Cal Bore Mop: Bore Mops
7. C4 - C4 Carbon Remover
8. Eliminator - Eliminator Bore Cleaner
9. Break Free CLP

Here's how I clean it...

1. Put some C4 onto the bore mop and insert the bore mop into the chamber such that only 1" of the end of the mop is in the chamber. Leave this in the chamber for at least 15 minutes.

2. Clean the bolt with CLP.

3. Wipe down the Magazines with microfiber. Maybe some CLP if the follower is dirty.

4. After at least 15 minutes (longer if you've never scrubbed the carbon ring), pull the bore mop out and wash it with some soap and water. I put a dab of soap on it and roll it between my hands, then I keep doing that under running water to get the soap off. GET ALL OF THE SOAP OFF OF IT. Set it aside to let it dry. You can re-use the bore mop 10-15 times before you need to swap to another one.

5. Put some C4 (not much) onto the Nylon Brush. Run the brush into the chamber about 1 inch and pull it out. If it won't come out, spin the brush a quarter turn then pull it out. If you have to spin the brush to get it out, you are engaging the rifling and going in too far (it won't hurt the rifling though). You want to scrub the chamber before the lands/rifling to get the carbon ring off.

6. Use a QTip with some C4 to clean off the action end of the barrel.

7. Wipe down the action with microfiber.

8. Put the Jag onto your rod.

9. Put some C4 on a patch and run it down the barrel. Wait 2-3 minutes.

10. Run two dry patches down the barrel. Maybe 3. Don't overdo it.

NOTE: Every 2500 rounds or so I will replace the C4 in all steps with Eliminator. Some lead build up in the bore is good for 22lr as it will smooth out the bore. However, high spots can build up lead in a non constructive way. The Eliminator will remove the lead. When I am doing an Eliminator cleaning, I do steps 9-10 twice.

This process takes me about 10-15 minutes, not including the time I'm waiting with the bore mop in the chamber. During that time I clean my bolt then I usually clean out my range bag or do some other chores while I wait.

The idea with my cleaning process is to not remove seasoning from the barrel if possible. You want some lube / lead in the barrel to "smooth" things out. If you have a nice barrel, you likely never need to do an Eliminator cleaning as the bore will be smooth and won't collect much, if any, lead. If you have a stock barrel like me... it will collect lead that over time will effect accuracy. At first the effect is positive by smoothing things out, but it can become negative with too much lead build up squeeze on the bullet as it travels.

I have around 18,000 rounds out my 457, and this cleaning setup has been working nicely. It's expensive to get the things to do the cleaning, but the cleaning itself is quick and easy.

 

I made a comment explaining my cleaning, and I'll make another address your questions...

i) Rod: considering ordering the Boretech 0.20" Borestix in 40" size, or should I get the 44" one? Heard that Pro Shot is also recommended but can't figure out which one from the myriad of options there. What do you recommend?

I went with a 44" Proof Positive Bore Stix. The .22 Cal Rimfire rod works perfectly on the CZ. SKU: BSTX-2244-RF. .22 CAL RF

ii) Bore Guide: Boretech Patch Guide (rimfire) (expensive) or the Rimfire Bore Guide (better price). Was told that the Patch Guide is better but have no idea so would appreciate feedback from those who have one or both.

Bore Guide is fine. You don't need to run a bunch of patches down a 457. A cleaning only needs 3-4 patches (unless your rifle is filthy). So a Patch Guide Bore Guide won't actually save you much, if any time.

iv) Nylon brush / Bronze brush - I know I need them - how many do you recommend (trying to balance total cost with shipping cost)?

I went with Nylon. They last a while. Get the three pack.

v) C4 carbon remover vs Eliminator - thoughts?

Mostly C4. See my comment in this thread in which I explain my cleaning. I use C4 primarily and then quarterly I'll use Eliminator once to get some lead fouling out.

vi) Rimfire blend.

I don't use Rimfire blend. I like to keep the barrel seasoned, with some healthy fouling, so I use C4 for cleaning most of the time, and Eliminator for cleaning every 2500 rounds or so.

vii) Chamber Mops - needed? Which size?

Boretech 22 Cal Bore Mop. Part number BTMB-22240. These last 10-15 cleanings, so I would get 5 if you can swing it. That way you won't have to order more for a while. A year if you shoot every week.

viii) Grease - suggestions?

I don't use grease on anything on my CZ, and it's still going strong 18,000+ rounds later.

ix) 1" patches - best to order from Boretech or is Amazon a good source? Right size for a 22LR?

The boretech 1" patches are very high quality. They are tight though. At times mine get semi stuck as I push into the rifling and it takes a solid amount of effort to get the rod to start going down the barrel.

These patches on Amazon are solid. They are stupid cheap and very thin. You only need to use one on your jag because despite being thin, they are 2" patches. I have not had one "tear" on my jag yet, so even though they are thin, they appear strong enough to work. They go down the barrel easier than the BoreTech 1" square patches do. You can say that means they won't clean as well, but this is rimfire. You want some seasoning left on the barrel after a cleaning.

You can save a few bucks and go that route if you want. In the end a patch is just there to cause friction and clean via that friction. Boretech's are thicker and stronger, but the cheap ones I linked also work. I started to use those cheap ones myself since I ran out of Boretech and didn't want to place an order and pay for shipping for something as simple as patches.