I was using a Dewey .17 cal rod with an OTIS limited breech .22 brush but I've moved away from the rod and use mainly a flex cable with brass ends to pull patches through. Nylon brush in the leade area to prevent carbon ring.

 

Dewey .20 and a “PatchWorm “

 

I would personally avoid a kit. Using the C4 method, you just need a good bore guide, a rod, bore swab, and a jag.

I would also recommend southern bloomer patches.

https://southernbloomer.com/our-products/

I like this rod, a lot. Buy the .17-20

Max Force Carbon Fiber Cleaning Rod

www.tiptonclean.com

Get the .20 cal jag, much better for the slightly undersized CZ bore

Solid Brass Jag

www.tiptonclean.com

Excellent bore guide, you need a #92

https://possumhollowproducts.com/

You want the swab for the chamber soaking. You can wash and reuse it.

Amazon.com : BIRCHWOOD CASEY Durable Versatile Gun Maintenance Scrubbing Cleaning Cotton Bore Mop : Sports & Outdoors

Amazon.com : BIRCHWOOD CASEY Durable Versatile Gun Maintenance Scrubbing Cleaning Cotton Bore Mop : Sports & Outdoors

www.amazon.com

 

Thank you for the info and the links.

 

I may need to get more popcorn 🍿

I use a 17 caliber ProShot (from Rural King) rod and brass jags in my CZs. I typically push a dry patch first and then one soaked with solvent. Sometimes I soak a Q tip with solvent and swirl it around in the chamber. After it sits a few minutes, I push patches until they come out clean. I use Hoppe's solvents mostly. I also have Ballistol on the table. I don't use a brush in the bore often, but I use a brass one if I feel the need for it.

You'll get a slightly different --or perhaps significantly different -- answer from everyone who responds. You'll have to figure out what works best for you and go with it.

 

I may need to get more popcorn 🍿

I use a 17 caliber ProShot (from Rural King) rod and brass jags in my CZs. I typically push a dry patch first and then one soaked with solvent. Sometimes I soak a Q tip with solvent and swirl it around in the chamber. After it sits a few minutes, I push patches until they come out clean. I use Hoppe's solvents mostly. I also have Ballistol on the table. I don't use a brush in the bore often, but I use a brass one if I feel the need for it.

You'll get a slightly different --or perhaps significantly different -- answer from everyone who responds. You'll have to figure out what works best for you and go with it.

I hope you use real butter and not Hoppe's 9 on that popcorn

 

As Barelhorses says, you'll get many opinions. FIRST, get a Teslong scope, only about $100, and DON'T coil it tightly like they ship them. I did my first one and it went bad. They sent me another but... 3 weeks w/o one. Personally, I use a $15 Brass 3-piece from Amazon that I polished the joints smooth and leave assembled in my shop. No snags at joints, but its Brass anyway - difficult (but not impossible) to damage steel bore. I feel it's better than a SS rod, being softer, and a coated rod may wear or collect crap on the coating. I run an 'empty' brass 'loop-jag' in from the muzzle, attach a patch at the chamber end, add a few drops of C4 and pull into the chamber. Let soak 15-min or so, then pull on thru to muzzle. This will remove most Primer residue and such. Check the chamber for 'Ring development' with Borescope and address with Nylon brush if needed, adding a few drops of C4 to the brush. After the scope shows OK, I lube the bore with Mobil-1 motor oil - cleans and protects. When I change my car oil, I invert the gallon-can for a few hours, and collect the 1-2 ounces that run down. Lasts a long time at 2-3 drops per gun.
I do this process for ALL my .22s, even the $150 ones. For Centerfire I add a Copper Solvent to keep down the buildup, but not fanatical about Copper. It also is a lube of sorts.

 

I use the DIY pull thru's by Dr Gunner, the one I have allocated to my MTR I use a 1" round AND a 1 1/8" square patch on the pull thru with Montana Extreme rimfire solvent. Seems to work so far for my gun, takes about 5 rounds to foul the bore after I clean it during matches. I clean every other card at the moment, still in the figuring it out stage for this rifle. I usually do a bit of C4 solvent on the chamber when I get home to make sure I don't get a carbon ring started.

 

I don't use a rod all the way through my barrels. After a few hundred round from both my Varmint MTR's to keep the carbon ring at bay I just use a .20 cal. mop soaked with Hoppe's # 9 and allow it to sit in the chamber for 15 - 30 minutes followed up with a short .17 cal. rod with an Otis .22 Limited Breach nylon or brass brush in the chamber. That is followed up with dry patches then wet patches of Breakfree CLP and dry patches pulled through with a homemade monofilament patch worm. Occasionally I'll use a .17 cal. Otis Ripcord with either a nylon or brass brush down the barrels.

 

I bought a $6 .17 cal cleaning rod at Walmart. Works great and has an adapter for larger cleaning brushes.

 

I went with the .20 cal. stainless rod from Dewey, based on their recommendation. Works great with .20 nylon brush's and jag. It's a one piece rod so nothing can protrude from a joint. If you've never used a Dewey, your in for a surprise. Very nice, well made cleaning rods. You'll like using them.

Houligan

 

Rods are all personal preference, but for cleaners, I have never gotten lead to come out of a .22 barrel before or at least I haven’t notice it before. Then again, I did use it on a clean barrel. Ordered a bottle of C4 and one of the Rimfire blend from Boretech and I was amazed to see lead on the patches. With such great results I have moved away from Ballistol for cleaning.

 

Oh and a standard .22 rod & attachments will not fit in the MTR chamber, you need a .17 cal. rod & 20 cal. attachments.

 

My 22 caliber Tipton carbon fiber rod and attachments works perfectly

 

C-4, Patchworm, 7/8" round patches, Tipton .22 cal felt cleaning pellets.
I do have a .20-cal Dewey's for when I want a cleaning rod, but I use the Patchworm most often, or once in a great while a coated Oatis pull-through cable.
Again, I don't go to brushes very often when it comes to the bore, but when I do I generally use Dewey's nylon. I also buy their bore mops, generally the dozen pack.
And then, my friend, read up on the dreaded carbon ring and prepared to be amazed, horrified and alarmed!
(Actually, it's pretty much no biggie and really preventable, especially as you already have C-4).
You might want to consider a chamber tool like the Brush 'n' Mop Chamber tool from Gunsmither Tools, link below. Or, look up on this site @DrGunner 's directions on how to make your own.
Happy cleaning!

 

The Bore Tech "Proof-Positive Bore Stix" cleaning rods for .22 rimfires work in the MTR chamber/barrel.

.22-.45 Caliber Rifle Cleaning Rod | Bore Stix Coated Rifle Rods

Bore Tech's Proof Positive Bore Stix for .22 - .45 caliber rifles are the best way to clean your rifle. Shop our coated rifle cleaning rods now & save!

www.boretech.com

The rods are one-piece, 0.195" in diameter AND use regular 8-32 thread pitch tips. They're first class, but fairly pricey.

 

Pretty much like the others who use C4 carbon cleaner. A .177 Dewey rod, jags and patches. No brushes, yet anyway. Also use a couple wet patches of Boretech Rimfire blend after C4, then if I'm storing for any length of time I'll run a CLP patch back and forth from chamber to muzzle.

 

Back in the day when I bought my 1st Varmint MTR my standard 8-32 attachments stopped at the chamber so I posed the same question to CZ:

"Hello I am the owner of a CZ 457 Varmint MTR and wanted to know in the event the barrel requires cleaning is a standard size .22lr cleaning brush recommended or does CZ recommend a smaller sized one being that it has a match target rifle chamber?
Thank you for your attention to this question."

and this was their response:

"You’ll need to get a .17 cleaning rod and a .20 brush. Our .22lr bore is too tight for the standard .22lr cleaning rod. If you have anymore questions feel free to ask!
Jacob Cheney
Customer Service Supervisor
913-321-1811 (ext 4701)"

Guess some 8-32 attachments are smaller than others, learn something every day....

 

I use this rod in .17, works great With a tipton .20 brass jag.

Amazon.com : Raiseek Gun Cleaning Rod 1 Piece Carbon Fiber 36 Inch, Pistol Rifle Cleaning Rod （36 Inch 4mm Diameter .17 Cal） : Sports & Outdoors

Amazon.com : Raiseek Gun Cleaning Rod 1 Piece Carbon Fiber 36 Inch, Pistol Rifle Cleaning Rod （36 Inch 4mm Diameter .17 Cal） : Sports & Outdoors

www.amazon.com

When I finish at the range I use a few drops of C4 on a tipton felt pellet, use a pistol cleaning rod to just put it in the chamber and let it soak while I gather targets, flags and get the rest of my stuff packed up. Then run a dry patch followed by a patch soaked in Rimfire blend followed by dry patches until clean.

 

This is the Brass rod set I got a few years ago. Under $15 + tax. As I said I smoothed the joints and keep one assembled in my shop. I also take one to the range, for jammed cases and for inserting C4 patches like born2vette said. In the A-reviews everyone says the jags are crap and They're Right !! Buy 'real ones' on A, also 'real brass brushes' and nylon brushes and mops. No local supply where I live - BP is useless.

Rifle/Pistol/Shotgun Brass 3-Piece Rifle Cleaning Rods : Amazon.ca: Sports & Outdoors

Rifle/Pistol/Shotgun Brass 3-Piece Rifle Cleaning Rods : Amazon.ca: Sports & Outdoors

www.amazon.ca

 

Guess some 8-32 attachments are smaller than others, learn something every day....

I probably wasn't clear about the 8-32 threads on the rod. What the Bore Tech rep was telling me was that, even though his .22 caliber rimfire rods were smaller than normal for this size rod (and thus fit the MTR), it would still use the thread size & pitch (8-32) as "full-size .22 and larger rods, and the rod wouldn't be of as limited us as some of the .17 and .20 caliber rods that typically use 5-40 threaded accessories.

 

I probably wasn't clear about the 8-32 threads on the rod. What the Bore Tech rep was telling me was that, even though his .22 caliber rimfire rods were smaller than normal for this size rod (and thus fit the MTR), it would still use the thread size & pitch (8-32) as "full-size .22 and larger rods, and the rod wouldn't be of as limited us as some of the .17 and .20 caliber rods that typically use 5-40 threaded accessories.

But all the .20 & .17 jags I have seen are 5-40 thread. Even if the rod is small enough to use, a .22 jag and patch will not work (at least easily) in a MTR.

 

Dewey Rods told me the .17 cal rod ( coated ) with their jag and brush would work perfectly. Also the kit comes with.17 cal patches. I love the Dewey coated rods but as with any rod wipe it clean after each pass to keep grit and grime of it.

 

I do not use any king of bushs