On the Field/Target Model... is the rail affixed both over the receiver... and to the barrel? how is that done at both ends?
While I used to think the longer barrel was what i need for accuracy... I'm not of that ilk any more. I think the 5.5 Field should be fine for targets, plinking and vermin. Barrel quality, crown, etc. should be comparable between these pistols, correct?
Anyone know what stock trigger pull on either of these is likely to be?
The rail is screwed into the frame at the back, and into the barrel at the middle/front (1 screw into the barrel for the half rails, 2 screws into the barrel for the full-length rails). This configuration is nice, in that you can remove just the rear rail screw and the barrel screw, and the rail stays attached to the barrel, which minimizes the need to sight in the gun again after reassembly. Last time I did it on the Hunter, I only needed to move the windage 1 click (no elevation change).
I agree on the barrel length (5.5 vs 7.25) not being an issue when using a dot sight. When using the iron sights, the longer sight radius can be helpful (but you can still shoot the 5.5 accurately with iron sights... it's 90% you).
Yes, quality and accuracy should be very good in either the Field/Target or the Hunter. I have an old Target (from 1990) and a newer Hunter (2016), and they both shoot great. Expect 1" groups at 25 yards when rested on a sandbag (see also:
IrishBob's ammo test)
Stock trigger pulls are usually reported to be in the 4.0 to 6.5 pound range. With a little effort, much better is easily doable. My Target is about 2.5lbs, and the Hunter is right at 2.0 lbs (had to try a few times to get it to lift the official NRA weights, but it passed). That old Target is stock, but came with the lighter sear spring (variously called the "adjustable" or "silhouette" sear spring), and I did some smoothing and then put one of those lighter sear springs into the Hunter. Unfortunately, the lighter sear springs are no longer available from Browning.
You can try the
Heggis Flip, or
try LDBennett's method to adjust your sear spring for lower tension while in the stock orientation, or
try some of the practical trigger improvements that Aprilian describes.
If it were me, I'd try to smooth things out and reduce creep first, and see how it is (the smoothing effort will lighten the trigger pull somewhat, too). Then lighten the pull weight by messing with the sear spring.
If you don't care whether or not the gun can fire without a magazine inserted, you can remove the magazine disconnect safety wire (the tall wire under the right grip). When installed, it prevents the trigger from firing the gun unless there is a magazine inserted. Unfortunately, it drags on the disconnector, making the trigger pull worse. But removing it is potentially a safety issue, so everyone needs to decide for themselves whether they are comfortable doing that.
Dave
