[MrG52D]

There is a great thread over on Rimfire Accuracy that goes into detail of various cleaning products, it's a good read.

Testing LOTS of gun cleaners effectiveness at carbon removal

 

[TrblShtr]

My primary nostrum is Ballistol, I guess technically a CLP. Gets under most powder and lead deposits in the barrel making them easy to push out with a patch on a jag. Certainly enough lubrication for bolt action rifles and even my AR, though I don't push a high rate of fire through that machine. Over the years no rust has developed on any of my firearms so it's suitable protection given my storage conditions (climate controlled upstairs closet, standard humidity). I do have a bottle of C4 carbon remover to help stay ahead of the carbon ring in the chambers of my .22s.
Edit to add: I tried Frog Lube on a couple semi-auto pistols but it really gummed up in cold temperatures for me, even after I was very careful to remove any oil or grease before application.

 

[olddogtim]

Eezox beat out all the oils mentioned so far ! It was a salt solution test . Go to the eezox site and see what I am talking about. The test was not done by eezox.

 

[Mark1964]

For my rimfires, chamber and bore just get C-4. Bolt gets either Hornady One Shot or FP-10. Exterior metal: Doesn't matter much, as they're shot and checked often enough and live in a safe in the same heated/air conditioned quarters that I do. So, whatever's handy on the bench. Lately I have a little green plastic of Ballistol sitting there.
Other guns, I'll use G-96 Complete Gun Treatment for a protectant. Either of the above for lube, or a CLP like G96 synthetic. For grease, Lubriplate SFL-O for fine or thin application, Shooter's Choice if I want something a little more substantial and tacky.
If I'm putting away a shotgun with nice walnut, I'll use some TreWax on the wood.

 

[PolishBulldog]

Yup. The MSDS says its about 60% Acetone. You have to be careful with the stuff, as it will melt plastic sights, take the finish off your rifle etc. But applied carefully to the carbon ring in your chamber (say, on a patch that you can leave in the chamber for about five minutes), it'll turn that carbon ring into goo that can be brushed out pretty easily.

Any problems using Goof Off on aluminum? If it works that good, I think it just might be the ticket for cleaning carbon on the suppressor baffles. Thanks!

 

[maximus83]

No idea what's best, and won't debate about solvents, total dead end and you never convince anybody. Most of the online "tests" you see are biased, incomplete, and unscientific as well, I don't trust the vast majority I've seen.

Of all the things I've used, here's what I currently prefer:

• General lube: Breakthrough HP oil. Slip EWL 30 is equally good. Both are synthetic, non-toxic, don't stink up your work area or make you feel light headed.
• General solvent: Boretech Eliminator (and if a specialized cleaner is wanted for rimfire, Boretech Rimfire which is optimized for lots of lead and copper). Synthetic, non-toxic, and don't stink.
• General protectant: CorrosionX. Has a strong, but not terrible, odor. I try not to use it without good ventilation, especially if using a lot. We use it to thoroughly coat all of our tools, knives, the outside of firearms, and other lube/protectant tasks. You can also do things like coat battery posts with it after cleaning, to prevent corrosion and help conduct current. As a general protectant for firearms and knives, I'm interested in the possibility of Froglube, but haven't tried it yet.
• Lubricating cleaner to spray into actions: Hornady Oneshot.

 

[flangster]

Any problems using Goof Off on aluminum? If it works that good, I think it just might be the ticket for cleaning carbon on the suppressor baffles. Thanks!

You know, I have no idea. It would be easy enough to test though.

@Maximus; FrogLube smells of wintergreeen. Not terrible. Smells like Mee-Maw's Lifesavers. I have used it, but don't know how well it works. Doesn't seem to have hurt anything so far.

 

[Al the Infidel]

Automotive carbon cleaner for carbon rings in chambers and mass air flow sensors in jets according to an esteemed RFC resident jet jockey.

 

[Jester560]

Hoppes Black

 

[Squirrelbark]

If accuracy is something important to you, after cleaning bore with solvent always run a patch of Kroil through the bore.

Be careful not to get any solvents or Silicone on your stock, that can hurt the finish on Wood stocks.

I always finish bore cleaning with Kroil on all my guns. Dry patch then before you shoot.

For Copper removal (especially on centerfire bores) Barnes CR-10 Copper Remover, follow with Kroil.

 

[Ol` Joe]

my rimfires;
solvent - Bore Tech C4
oil-Weapon Shield
grease - Shooters Choice red grease or Weapon Shield
storage - Rigg

centerfire;
Everything the same with the exception of solvent. I haven’t found anything yet to remove copper like WipeOut,either the foam or liquid (PatchOut)

I’ve been cleaning firearms for over 60 yrs and probably used 60 different solvents, oils and CLPs and these what I’ve settled on. I love the smell of Hoppe’s, but it doesn’t clean like some of the newer solvents old or new formula. Dad and I growing up had Marvel Mystery Oil, Hoppe’s, Outers, and good old 3 in 1 on the bench and all kept his guns rust and wear free. I do think some of the newer “oils” work a bit better.
I have never been a fan of CLP’s of any brand as doing anything better than a dedicated product. I’m aware Weapon Shield is a CLP and that there is likely a better Lube but I like the fact it is heavy enough in weight to stay put on my 1911 rails during an afternoons worth of shooting ~ 200/250rds.

There are lots of products out there, all have their fans. Most work well as far as keeping wear to a very minimum and rust free if you’re not shooting in a dirty gritty environment and storing in a salt air or humid swampy area. The biggest factor is that they are used as required and directed

 

[armstrong88]

Yup. The MSDS says its about 60% Acetone. You have to be careful with the stuff, as it will melt plastic sights, take the finish off your rifle etc. But applied carefully to the carbon ring in your chamber (say, on a patch that you can leave in the chamber for about five minutes), it'll turn that carbon ring into goo that can be brushed out pretty easily.

Well hell, just checked, and what I have is Goo Gone, not Goof Off. Guess I'm bound to have this bottle around for a while still. The only things I'll probably have to pass down in my will is going to be my 22's and 3/4 of this bottle, considering I use it about once a year, lol.

 

[armstrong88]

For my rimfires, chamber and bore just get C-4. Bolt gets either Hornady One Shot or FP-10. Exterior metal: Doesn't matter much, as they're shot and checked often enough and live in a safe in the same heated/air conditioned quarters that I do. So, whatever's handy on the bench. Lately I have a little green plastic of Ballistol sitting there.
Other guns, I'll use G-96 Complete Gun Treatment for a protectant. Either of the above for lube, or a CLP like G96 synthetic. For grease, Lubriplate SFL-O for fine or thin application, Shooter's Choice if I want something a little more substantial and tacky.
If I'm putting away a shotgun with nice walnut, I'll use some TreWax on the wood.

I'm not familiar with the FP-10 or G-96 Complete Gun Treatment. I'll be looking those up. Thanks!

 

[PolishBulldog]

Well hell, just checked, and what I have is Goo Gone, not Goof Off. Guess I'm bound to have this bottle around for a while still. The only things I'll probably have to pass down in my will is going to be my 22's and 3/4 of this bottle, considering I use it about once a year, lol.

Does that remove carbon? I know it’s certainly less aggressive than Goof Off so I figured it’s worth the question.

 

[armstrong88]

Any problems using Goof Off on aluminum? If it works that good, I think it just might be the ticket for cleaning carbon on the suppressor baffles. Thanks!

I was wondering the same thing, as I am waiting in line to get my suppressor. Heard ultrasonic cleaners work well for this and got lucky and found a used one for $55 that I'll try out on it when the time comes. Not sure what kind of liquid to use yet, haven't got that far. Maybe use Goof Off in the ultrasonic cleaner? I don't know, probably a bad idea, like most I have. Speaking of potentially bad ideas, I was also wondering if Easy Off Heavy Duty would work well for cleaning up carbon in a barrel and/or suppressor baffles. In my mind it sounds like a good idea, works great on burnt food in the over/on the grill that is nothing but crispy carbon... but the little voice is telling me it might not be the best to be shooting down the barrel of a rifle, lol. Might try it on the suppressor baffles though! As far as lead removal, I wish I could find where I read it, but apparently, there is some combination that people use that just melts away lead deposits in suppressors. Also remember it saying it was super nasty for the environment to though, and needed to be disposed of at a proper facility, so depending on if that means just dropping it off with the used oil at the tire shop, or more involved, may or may not be worth it depending on convenience.

 

[armstrong88]

Does that remove carbon? I know it’s certainly less aggressive than Goof Off so I figured it’s worth the question.

Someone more knowledgeable than myself can pipe in here, but my guess would be that it doesn't. It feels really oily and actually smells quite pleasant with the citric scent, so, just guessing, but probably no acetone in it (?)

 

[armstrong88]

No idea what's best, and won't debate about solvents, total dead end and you never convince anybody. Most of the online "tests" you see are biased, incomplete, and unscientific as well, I don't trust the vast majority I've seen.

Of all the things I've used, here's what I currently prefer:

• General lube: Breakthrough HP oil. Slip EWL 30 is equally good. Both are synthetic, non-toxic, don't stink up your work area or make you feel light headed.
• General solvent: Boretech Eliminator (and if a specialized cleaner is wanted for rimfire, Boretech Rimfire which is optimized for lots of lead and copper). Synthetic, non-toxic, and don't stink.
• General protectant: CorrosionX. Has a strong, but not terrible, odor. I try not to use it without good ventilation, especially if using a lot. We use it to thoroughly coat all of our tools, knives, the outside of firearms, and other lube/protectant tasks. You can also do things like coat battery posts with it after cleaning, to prevent corrosion and help conduct current. As a general protectant for firearms and knives, I'm interested in the possibility of Froglube, but haven't tried it yet.
• Lubricating cleaner to spray into actions: Hornady Oneshot.

First mention I have seen of Slip 2000 EWL. I was going to ask about this specifically for a lube. I feel like I'm leaning to this, largely based on the fact that it is synthetic and the fact that several people express that it might not matter which I choose. I like the idea of synthetic and no odor. Synthetic oil is way better for the car than conventional, so maybe the same goes for guns? I don't know. Certainly doesn't seem like it would be worse, but could be wrong on that too! lol.

Circling back to the EWL, has anyone tried the original slip 2000 'gun lube', the EWL, and the EWL 30? From what I understand they are thinnest to thickest in that order.

Has anyone tried the Wipe Out foaming solvent? Read elsewhere that some unofficial testing was done, cleaned the bore as best as possible until nothing but clean patches using Hopes solvent, then used that, and got a significant amount more out. Surprising to me given how well Hopes has been regarded/highly suggested here. Then again, how much is hearsay, what was their process, etc.

 

[armstrong88]

If accuracy is something important to you, after cleaning bore with solvent always run a patch of Kroil through the bore.

Be careful not to get any solvents or Silicone on your stock, that can hurt the finish on Wood stocks.

I always finish bore cleaning with Kroil on all my guns. Dry patch then before you shoot.

For Copper removal (especially on centerfire bores) Barnes CR-10 Copper Remover, follow with Kroil.

On the point of centerfire, any idea how many rounds you should go before cleaning those? I've never shot anywhere near enough to clean one of my centerfire guns due to being dirty, I just do it for the protection since I rarely shoot them. That being said, I just picked up a Savage 110 Elite that I am hoping will be shot quite a lot more than any of my previous centerfire guns so this may come into play in the near future.

 

[armstrong88]

my rimfires;
solvent - Bore Tech C4
oil-Weapon Shield
grease - Shooters Choice red grease or Weapon Shield
storage - Rigg

centerfire;
Everything the same with the exception of solvent. I haven’t found anything yet to remove copper like WipeOut,either the foam or liquid (PatchOut)

I’ve been cleaning firearms for over 60 yrs and probably used 60 different solvents, oils and CLPs and these what I’ve settled on. I love the smell of Hoppe’s, but it doesn’t clean like some of the newer solvents old or new formula. Dad and I growing up had Marvel Mystery Oil, Hoppe’s, Outers, and good old 3 in 1 on the bench and all kept his guns rust and wear free. I do think some of the newer “oils” work a bit better.
I have never been a fan of CLP’s of any brand as doing anything better than a dedicated product. I’m aware Weapon Shield is a CLP and that there is likely a better Lube but I like the fact it is heavy enough in weight to stay put on my 1911 rails during an afternoons worth of shooting ~ 200/250rds.

There are lots of products out there, all have their fans. Most work well as far as keeping wear to a very minimum and rust free if you’re not shooting in a dirty gritty environment and storing in a salt air or humid swampy area. The biggest factor is that they are used as required and directed

O good, someone has used Wipe Out! I'm posting as I read though others posts and just asked if anyone had tried this.

My sage is in the garage. Humidity controlled to around 31% with 6 lbs of desicant. It isn't temperature controlled though. If the humidity is kept down to that level, is temperature fluctuation a big deal, or not so much? Even if it is, I'm not sure how I would be able to change that aspect anyway, short of moving it into the house, which would be a big undertaking and don't really have anywhere to put it either.

 

[S&WK-22]

Goof off... as in the same stuff you use for getting adhesive residue off from stickers, barcodes, and such? If so, that's awfully convenient since I already have a bottle way bigger than I'll likely use in a lifetime! Get me every time with that 'cost per ounce' comparison...

Goof Off is basically a blend of aromatic hydrocarbon based solvents.
No lube, or rust inhibitors of consequence.
☹☹