I would go for it, but then I like finding old rifles in that condition.

 

it depends on the magic number they want, the (d) or D is the last of the 44US series. As long as the bore is good, I would probably drop 1-125 on it. But with the paint, there's no telling whats under there.

The Dust cover was/is factory for that rifle.

 

Well it’s Cabelas - they don’t haggle… it was more, it’s on sale- been there for months…

 

I’m buying it- went back and looked, bore is good except a tiny spot of rust rust at the muzzle, which I’m sure will wipe right off with some CLP.

the bolt is clean, and works great, trigger feels good, has a magazine, stock may have been cleaned and tung oiled, grain is good…

I’m betting the barrel was scratched or slightly rusty that’s why it was painted… the rest of the gun does not look like it was messed with, so I’m willing to take a chance.

 

Figure for $149 I can’t go wrong- I’ll make it better, and if need be resell it to someone who can use it to teach their kids.

 

Well, I bought it- got it home, and the more I look at it, it almost seems like it was pieces together. The entire barrel and action was painted, like even to the breech face it appears… the stock has the correct 3 hole plate for the sling swivels, but only two of the holes have wood cutout under them, the front barrel band is missing the screw for the stock, severa of the trigger group components look NOS, magazine looks NOS or aftermarket, the firing pin looks brand new with no wear on it… just some weird stuff… the trigger assembly and safety were so loose the firing pin would drop without pulling the trigger, so I got that all nice and snug, then the mag was going in too far and jamming on the bolt- so I think the mag catch piece needs a shim or something…

it appears that it may have been a bunch of parts thrown together, but it looks like most of it is there.

Im certain I can get it working. The most important stuff is there, the rest I’ll get.

 

More pics- the paint comes right off the barrel, which is good, means they never prepped it well, so I should be able to clean it up.

the wood on the stock is really nice, with some steel wool and tung oil, it will look like a million bucks

 

And even more pics…

 

So is the barrel smooth under the paint? If so it may be they used a truck bed liner paint. I have used that type of paint to refinish a SpotShot scope had had most of its finish worn off.

 

It’s pretty clean metal under the paint- like it may have been stripped, or maybe never finished to begin with. I can see a little spotty rust, but There’s no SN on this either.

 

You will be having lots of fun!

 

I think so too

 

Looks like you are on your way to getting it ready to fire. The barrel/ receiver looks like a good project for using Cerakote or similar finish. Keep us posted on your progress.

 

Was thinking the same.

 

Congrats, you bought my type of rifle to work on.

 

not sure if you have figured it out yet that your front multi swivel plate is on upside down. That is the reason for the unusable hole.

 

🙃

 

Nothing wrong with returning a rifle back to what it should be. I have seen some really bad rifles after being redone looked better than new. I watch with anticipation to see what you do and how it turns out.

 

Oh i forgot, luckily the paint prep was done terribly on this guy, and the paint comes off with a brass wool, and under that the metal appears to be pretty clean, white steel. I wonder if this was never blued, or if somehow they were able to completely strip the bluing off... I plan to clean as much of the paint off everywhere that I can, and try cold bluing it - I did a Shotgun Barrel a couple months abck, and following some suggestions of multiple layers of bluing, washing in hot water in between, and hitting with 0000 steel wool inbetween coats, it came out great. So I will try that on this guy

I am trying to figure out if I get a side mount waver style mount for scope or if I ante up the dough for real peeps like it should have had...

I did a cursory look online for other 44US models, and I think i got a good deal on this, evrn with re-bluing and if I do buy sights, I will be in it for market value, and I will know it is built correctly.

The trigger mechanism, bolt, and everything on these is so freaking simple, I love it compared to more modern and semi auto stuff.

 

Oh i forgot, luckily the paint prep was done terribly on this guy, and the paint comes off with a brass wool, and under that the metal appears to be pretty clean, white steel. I wonder if this was never blued, or if somehow they were able to completely strip the bluing off... I plan to clean as much of the paint off everywhere that I can, and try cold bluing it - I did a Shotgun Barrel a couple months abck, and following some suggestions of multiple layers of bluing, washing in hot water in between, and hitting with 0000 steel wool inbetween coats, it came out great. So I will try that on this guy

I am trying to figure out if I get a side mount waver style mount for scope or if I ante up the dough for real peeps like it should have had...

I did a cursory look online for other 44US models, and I think i got a good deal on this, evrn with re-bluing and if I do buy sights, I will be in it for market value, and I will know it is built correctly.

The trigger mechanism, bolt, and everything on these is so freaking simple, I love it compared to more modern and semi auto stuff.

FWIW,
I cold blue pretty much the way Larry Potterfield does it. I use plastic wallpaper trays for the tubs.
Muratic acid takes off bluing really well, don't breathe the fumes and wear appropriate gloves.
I hear Oxpho bluing is good.

 

When I was doing cold blues I used white vinegar to strip the blue. Works great and leaves the metal with slight etch that takes the blue. Finished metal still comes out shiny. Vans cold blue is what I mostly used. Haven't done one in a long time. I have a No. 44b that I belive was the forerunner of the 44US. The stock is ready to go. The metal needs a reblue. It's been apart for I'll bet 20 years. Someday.

 

Good idea with vinegar! I can do that

 

I also hear that Vans is a good cold blue, might be what Bone uses?

 

No two rifles will take the bluing the same. I don't know if it has something to do with the temper of the metal or it's just a different mixtures of metals used. I haven't refinished many, but the few I have I would experimented with the different solutions. Sometimes Birchwood Super Blue would work great and sometimes the Vans would. I have others on hand, but those are the main two I use. Now for just an overlay to even out a finish, the super blue always seemed to do a better job at blending.

 

Ralfus' Blueing method | Rimfire Central Firearm Forum

 

Geez Ross. Your giving 10 year old info to finish a 80 yo gun. We need up to date info for the old crap!

 

I ended up buying a side mount rail for a scope and a BSA sweet 22 (with a discount) from Cabelas. I started stripping the paint off the barrel with brass wool, and it’s coming right off, super easy.

question though, it appears that the rear takedown mount screws into the receiver and holds the barrel in. Is that the case? If so, I will pull the barrel out and it will be easier to
Clean and reblue everything

 

Posted a video about this rifle as
Well

Can’t recall if we’re allowed to post video links here, so I’m sorry if I am not allowed… but this is my build

 

Great video, thanks!

 

Looks like my sort of project..Looking forward to seeing completed..Whenever I see a painted Rifle, especially one a bad paint job..Stolen always crosses my mind..

My Son drug home a Sawed off Shotgun many years years ago when he was around ten.. Wifes parents are not gun people at all and they gave it to him out of a storage unit they were cleaning out..It was painted aluminum color and they thought it was a toy I guess.. He brought a zippo lighter, and knife home that day too..I was so proud, but told him that Shotgun will get him ten years down in Leavenworth KS.. He did not really understand that,LOL

 

That is always a possibility, I guess you never know… it has no SN being from the 40’s so you can’t trace it.
I figured maybe it could have been a retired guys project and maybe he lost interest or passed, and maybe his kid tried to put it together… or maybe it was a receiver that someone picked up and tried to assemble with parts from Numrich or something… some of the parts inside look like they’re new, and the whole trigger assembly was was loose when I got it…

I don’t know if I will ever know the full story on it. but I’ll fix it

 

Yeah I sure would not worry about..Will be nice when done..

 

That was never a worry for me - just want it functional

 

My bet is it was rusty to Sumer degree and they wire brushed it to get the surface rust off an in the process also took of the bluing off. After you get the paint off and your cold bluing it should look great.

 

Well, I finished cleaning it up, and cold blued it last night. It didn’t come out as good as I hoped. It’s really splotchy, the receiver didn’t seem to take bluing at all…

I finished cleaning the paint off with brass wool, then washed it 4 or 5 times with vinegar washing it between each time, and drying it off.
I used 0000 steel wool to polish wool everything, then washed it with soap and hot water, and dried it off.
Put one coat of bluing on it, then polished with steel wool again, washed it in hot water, dried it, blued it again, steel wooled etc.

Did that 3 times and it still came out somewhat splotchy

 

Humm, ????
Soap and hot water??? I've never used soap. Steel wool we buy has oil in it to keep from rusting I hear? Between coats of blue, after using wool, I wipe down with moist towel.
Did you look at Larry Potterfields tutorial?

 

Humm, ????
Soap and hot water??? I've never used soap. Steel wool we buy has oil in it to keep from rusting I hear? Between coats of blue, after using wool, I wipe down with moist towel.
Did you look at Larry Potterfields tutorial?

I did watch it before but it’s been a while. I may have messed something up. I used the soap and water to wash off the vinegar before I steel wooled it.

I rinsed it and towel dried it before adding more bluing.
I’ll watch Larry’s video again

 

Looks like you are using the super blue, so once you get the metal clean. Here are a few steps I use.

I spray with brake cleaner and wipe down, then apply heat to remove the moisture.

Then the bluing will go on better and more evenly, more than likely that is why it is going on blotchy due to the moisture content.

I use a hand held blow torch with bottle, but a heat gun will work as well.

It just needs to be warm, once you heat you can see the moisture leave. If to hot it will turn the bluing solution to a power residue. Then you have clean and repeat