Welcome to the site.
Did you try the search button at the top of the screen?
I use it a lot when I'm searching for particular information. It helps me.

 

.

 

Do you weld or have friend pretty good at it?
A regular twist drill of a smidge larger dia that the liner OD can have an extension of rod (doesnt have to be 'drill rod', cold rolled steel will do) of a bit smaller dia. so it doesnt bind in the hole.
Start with a NEW drill bit.
The drill shank tail end should be ground to a smaller dia from the cutting flutes, say an inch up from the end of the flutes, and the end of the rod and drill bit should be ground to a matching angle to make a 'scarf joint'; it doesnt have to be pretty, just smaller than the hole. Then weld together as straight as possible. The weld should have good penetration and not need a lot of grinding back down to the proper dia.
Restraighten if needed after it cools off.
This drill bit has two cutting edges on the tip. If you dull one of them it will become a hole chasing bit and track right down the existing bore with only the one edge cutting. This helps avoid the bit digging in and jamming in a deep hole.
You may want to start the hole with a regular drill bit to establish the entry then switch to the deep hole bit.
Use a heavy duty variable speed drill, like a 1/2" one with a side handle for leverage. Dont go too fast, no need, you are not a production shop. Just enough speed and pressure to keep chugging away. Use Cutting Fluid!. This will all help to keep the bit from overheating (ruined).
Regarding liners: the ends of the liners may not be all that good and the maker should include a statement about which end and how much to carefully cut off. The breech end is going to be chambered anyway, just be sure the muzzle end is going to be pristine for crowning.
They may also recommend what to use, like a Loctite product.
Note: Many old rifles may have existing excessive headspace especially those like the Stevens Swinging block actions. Any action pins/parts should be refurbed/replaced and the action 'tightened up' before completing the breech end and chambering. The liner is best installed a bit long back there for final fitting. I prefer to 'tight breech'; ie, .001" before chambering. The breech will wear in a bit in use so start tight and it will settle in much better. Thing is, you want to make all this work worth while.

 

Gcrank1, edit.seems we were typing at the same time.

OP, Don’t know what resources you may or may not have, butI made this one with a relatively minimum of tools. I used a 5/16” bit , chucked it in a power hand drill and reduced the end using a bench grinder to a point it would enter a bore. Then used the bench grinder to sharpen the new cutting edges. silver soldered or brazed a spare cleaning rod ( dont remember what it came from but it is hardened. ) to it. I also had to reduce the diameter of the twist drill’s shank for chip clearance. Ive drilled

out 3 barrels and had no problems.

 

Pictures are worth a thousand words, lol

 

I have been in shops that can put very precise holes in different alloy bar stock and those precision holes can be very long.
I have been in shops that cold form drilled bar stock that has a mandrel inside using hundreds of thousands of pounds of pressure to make a supper dense bar with a precision hole in it.
These machines cost A LOT of money.
I can tell that gcrank1 and williwm are not young guys. I can also tell they have a wealth of information and experience. When I see people like these two....do what they do...it's truly remarkable to me. It's one thing to be book smart. It's another thing to be creative enough and brave enough to attempt things and succeed using tools they made themselves.
I would love to spend a couple weeks with both of them just trying to learn a little bit of what they know. There is no better experience. You can't buy that.

 

i have had 2 guns done here. they do a great job.
is a good place to get the liners from. but send
them a email they might have the drill bit. worth a try.

Redmans Rifling and Reboring

Lruss

 

I understand this has probably been hashed and re-hashed, but I am a new member, and hopefully someone will steer me in the right place. I need a barrel liner drill. Brownells is out of stock and seems to be the only place I. The US that sells them. Any hewould be appreciated. Before the comments of “ask your machinist friend” start- I don’t have any machinist friends. I’m not broke, but don’t want to spend money foolishly either.
I realize a good piloted drill bit will cost somewhere in the $150 dollar range in todays market, whether bought, or commissioned to machine.
I have probably a half dozen .22s that need re lined, and I’m just looking for the bit- for now. Thanks in advance! And if this thread needs to be moved, please do so, but please give me some guidance as to why and how to post appropriately.
Some of you will want to know which guns I will be working with, so here you go- Remi from model/number 4&6, Stevens favorite, an obscure Chinese .22 target rifle, an old Gill Gun, and more to follow, (if the auction goes well tomorrow)

Brownells is selling you a piloted tapered drill bit. The specs for it are .315 inch or 8mm with a one inch pilot that is .216 inch or 5.5mm. But any tapered 8mm bit will work.

If you can find a welder to cut the shoulder off one of these and attach some steel rod, something similar to this would work:

8mm X 200mm Tapered Guide/pilot Drill Bit - For Diamond Core 8mm X 200mm Tapered Guide/pilot Drill Bit - For Diamond Core - - Amazon.com

You could also search for things like ball nosed end mills.

 

You can rent them at 4D Reamer Rentals.

Barrel Drill

Art

 

I have a Lathe so not as difficult as doing it by hand. All the Drill Bits are rather soft on the Shank end so I just turn them down leaving a Stub 3/16" dia. by 3/8" long. Use a piece of 1/4" dia. Rod for my extension with a 3/16" hole. I Soft Solder them together using a Gentle Heat and No-Corode Flux. Done a half a dozen or so with good results. Good advice given to Go Slow with just enough pressure to keep it cutting. Grinding a Pilot can be done using a Dremel Tool. Good luck!

 

I understand this has probably been hashed and re-hashed, but I am a new member, and hopefully someone will steer me in the right place. I need a barrel liner drill. Brownells is out of stock and seems to be the only place I. The US that sells them. Any hewould be appreciated. Before the comments of “ask your machinist friend” start- I don’t have any machinist friends. I’m not broke, but don’t want to spend money foolishly either.
I realize a good piloted drill bit will cost somewhere in the $150 dollar range in todays market, whether bought, or commissioned to machine.
I have probably a half dozen .22s that need re lined, and I’m just looking for the bit- for now. Thanks in advance! And if this thread needs to be moved, please do so, but please give me some guidance as to why and how to post appropriately.
Some of you will want to know which guns I will be working with, so here you go- Remi from model/number 4&6, Stevens favorite, an obscure Chinese .22 target rifle, an old Gill Gun, and more to follow, (if the auction goes well tomorrow)

So, have you managed to acquire a piloted liner drill for your relining needs??? I've made several piloted liner drills and reground the pilot on a Brownells short liner drill after I managed to break the pilot section off. The ones I have made and repaired were roughed in on a drill press with a dremel and finished on my lathe with the dremel held in a fixture that I had so I could grind to a precise diameter. And yes the ways of the lathe were protected from the highly abrasive grinding dust!!! If the OP is not here or has already solved his problem, don't see the point of a detailed reply.
God Bless, Frank.

 

I understand this has probably been hashed and re-hashed, but I am a new member, and hopefully someone will steer me in the right place. I need a barrel liner drill. Brownells is out of stock and seems to be the only place I. The US that sells them. Any hewould be appreciated. Before the comments of “ask your machinist friend” start- I don’t have any machinist friends. I’m not broke, but don’t want to spend money foolishly either.
I realize a good piloted drill bit will cost somewhere in the $150 dollar range in todays market, whether bought, or commissioned to machine.
I have probably a half dozen .22s that need re lined, and I’m just looking for the bit- for now. Thanks in advance! And if this thread needs to be moved, please do so, but please give me some guidance as to why and how to post appropriately.
Some of you will want to know which guns I will be working with, so here you go- Remi from model/number 4&6, Stevens favorite, an obscure Chinese .22 target rifle, an old Gill Gun, and more to follow, (if the auction goes well tomorrow)

I could not remember where this post was, so I started one in the "Open Rimfire" forum. It might answer some questions for you. Oh, and I can definitely help you on your Favorite as they happen to be one of my favorite rifle models!!!
God Bless, Frank.

 

Oh, and I can definitely help you on your Favorite as they happen to be one of my favorite rifle models!!!

I prefer my Visible Loaders. Unlike the Favorites, they aren't dangerously habit-forming, if you know what I mean:

https://www.youtube.com/c/TomsTechniques

https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLN8VIbn37NRlGEB27HMorZjFqJS69bqns

Building The Steven's Favorite

 

I understand this has probably been hashed and re-hashed, but I am a new member, and hopefully someone will steer me in the right place. I need a barrel liner drill. Brownells is out of stock and seems to be the only place I. The US that sells them. Any hewould be appreciated. Before the comments of “ask your machinist friend” start- I don’t have any machinist friends. I’m not broke, but don’t want to spend money foolishly either.
I realize a good piloted drill bit will cost somewhere in the $150 dollar range in todays market, whether bought, or commissioned to machine.
I have probably a half dozen .22s that need re lined, and I’m just looking for the bit- for now. Thanks in advance! And if this thread needs to be moved, please do so, but please give me some guidance as to why and how to post appropriately.
Some of you will want to know which guns I will be working with, so here you go- Remi from model/number 4&6, Stevens favorite, an obscure Chinese .22 target rifle, an old Gill Gun, and more to follow, (if the auction goes well tomorrow)

Contact Alex Hamilton at Ten Ring Precision. His number is on his website. Call Alex directly, don't email. Alex has been relining barrels for decades. Ask him if he has a supplier for his bits. There is no finer gentleman in shooting sports.