I wonder if that would work on the rifle bore as well? Maybe I'll shove one of my old Mosins in the oven and see what happens!

 

Fireclean gets very good reviews also for pre treating a can for easy cleaning.

 

isn't fireclean vegetable oil? I seem to recall somebody putting some through a mass spectrometer to confirm. I'm not saying don't use it, but maybe not overpay for something.

 

I've been using welding anti spatter spray on my suppressor with excellent results. I use it as a welder to keep hot metal beads from sticking to my work piece. It works the same in my suppressor.

 

Great info, thanks man!!:bthumb: I can't stand cleaning mine either......

 

A light coat of anti seize on all contacting surfaces works great.

 

Where do you buy anti-seize? Automotive stores or places like Home Depot? And is that what the label will say.....anti-seize???

Thanks

 

I still have it in the garage and will check the brand later, but the anti-sieze I used turned to carbon when it got pretty hot, effectively welding the tube to the core. It took forever to get them apart, and many hammer blows. It actually put a small compression wrinkle in the core.

Anyway, I just clean often now.

This post is from another board, which is not linkable (have to be logged in)

My thoughts I shared on barfcom. (sorry, job means I have to go there)

I've been wanting try this for a long time. I'll play with it on the Mask HD and let you know.

Here are my thoughts after having worked with this stuff on the medical side of things:

Silicone is generally accepted as biocompatible, meaning it shouldn't harm living tissue. Just about every disposable medical device has silicone on it or in it (needles, IVs, valves, etc). Having said that, it's generally frowned upon to allow it to mist and enter into the lungs. I had to set up one manufacturing process where we sprayed into a protective cover that went over a scalpel. It was a prototype machine that required manual operation from several feet away. Even though we were only spraying micrograms of silicone, it would still coat the operators safety glasses. We joked he was going to quickly develop "slick lung" and gave him a face mask and shut it down as soon as possible we could fully automate it.

10,000 to 12,500 cST is a thicker viscosity. I don't know why, I always liked working with the thicker stuff better. It gets EVERYWHERE way too easily.

When you get a shot or an IV inserted, the reason why it goes in so easily is because A) the needle is freakin sharp, and B) it has a coating of silicone oil on it. The needles will have it baked on. For a thinner layer, the silicone is cut with scary chemicals like hexane and surfactant-like additives, dipped, and then baked.

My recommendation is if you do this, don't leave much left in the can because the blow back will not exactly be healthy for you. I'm not going to say it's toxic either, but the less you get in your lungs the better. I would be especially wary of getting a lung full of vaporized DOT 5 with all of its crazy additives. Again, not saying don't use it, just don't leave the stuff puddled in there like you would in wet a suppressor if you're going to do it. I feel better about handling "the Dip" than imagining breathing in a mist of silicone.

Oh, and it's 100% fine for aluminum if anyone is still wondering.

 

I have been using anti seize for over 20 years on cans. Permatex for as long as I can remember a brand name and even on mg's never had a issue.

 

Has anyone tried Eezox or Kroil to treat a suppressor?

 

Keep us all updated on how this works long term. One of the serious industry experts over on ST tried DOT 5, and reported that it made no difference. Hopefully this technique shows more promise.

 

A note here that has not been mentioned and I fell is VERY easy and important. When you go shooting ( as stated I always use anti seize ) before you put the can away and while still at least warm loosen then re-tighten the threads a few times I learned this many years ago and trust me it helps big time. This will break up the lead/ carbon built up on the threads and on the can itself and keep it from freezing in place.

 

+1 on the brake fluid. I have my 22 cal Liberty essence that after the first year absolutely hated cleaning it from the fused lead crap to the titanium inner core. I spent the day in a blast cabinet to get it like new then did the brake fluid dip bake. Presto!!!!! easy clean. been doing it once a year now for two years and perfect. Wipe down and air compressor blow off clean. I don't know if I need to re-bake with the brake fluid but it can't hurt.

 

DOT 5 brake fluid treatment has worked great for me with my Spectre II. Makes cleaning pretty easy. I've retreated after every shooting/cleaning event. :bthumb:

 

Would a frog lube treatment not work?

 

I had try frog lube for 2 year's. It will work, But not great, I had try over 1400 round of mix ammo, and I dip it. Will comes off, but still need little work, Last week I have total of over 2,200 round on my Spectre II , I have to dip it twice and some elbow grease to clean it off. and also I have to pound the baffle with rod.

I will give a DOT 5 a test. Can it hold up 3,000 round :Blasting_:Blasting_:Blasting_

 

Just remember it is DOT 5 fluid, NOT DOT 5.1; they're two wildly different chemical compounds & should never be mixed [they'll turn into toxic spooge if they are.]

Wish I had one of those mufflers to play with, but they're illegal here behind the Granola Curtain...

 

I bought some from Auto Zone. It's purple color DOT 5?

 

I found that coating can internals with Eezox makes cleaning very easy.

 

Not really.. I had try many moon ago. Go try it for a thousand rounds and come tell me.

 

Still haven't found any thing better then Brake fluid. Best thing I have found yet.

 

Go to your local auto parts store and get some Permatex high temp anti-seize. Then go to Lowes or Home Depot and get a quart of mineral spirits. Disassemble a clean suppressor and with an old toothbrush coat the interior of the tube with the anti-seize. Don't forget the threads. Re-assemble everything and use your can as you normally do. When you feel it's time to clean it, remove the end caps and drop everything into a container of mineral spirits. I use an old glass pickle jar so I can view everything. Let everything soak for a couple days. Most if not all the crud that was deposited on the tube's interior should just fall off as the layer of anti-seize will have been dissolved away by the mineral spirits. Your can's interior components should just drop out. I have never used anti-seize on any other component. Clean your can's other components as you normally do. Re-coat the interior and re-assemble. Even though the mineral spirits will be dark gray with dissolved crud, it can be used over and over again. Plus, it will evaporate completely and leave no residue. This isn't a perfect solution, but it works well enough for me as my biggest problem was removing hardened crud from the cans interior.

 

I have the mineral spirits already, will pick up some of that Permatex and give it a go.

I like my Spectre II being clean and golden inside. So anything that makes maintenance easier is definitely worth a couple bucks to try!

I have used the weapons grease TW25B painted onto the baffles with a small paintbrush -though it helps, it isn't the greatest, either.

Thanks Dan.

 

Will the Permatex and Mineral Spirits harm an aluminum can (GM-22)??

 

My .22lr cans are all aluminum and I've never had an issue yet.

 

Great info, guys. Thanks

 

I used my Dead Air Mask for the first time this past weekend. I was only able to shoot about 200 rounds (used a Ruger 10/22).

I had pre-treated it with Fireclean. Although I only shot 200 rounds, the suppressor was pretty dirty in some places but not bad overall. All of the **** wiped off except in a few little places here and there. So I guess Fireclean was OK.

As my next test, after cleaning the suppressor, I pre-treated with Eezox.

I'll shoot my suppressor another 200 rounds (to compare apples to apples) and then see how it cleans up after using the Eezox.

I'll report my results in a week or so.

 

Great info, QB. Thanks!

 

Went to the range today and shot the same 10/22, 200 rounds GemTech Silencer Subsonic 22LR. Just finished cleaning my Dead Air Mask and I think I'm giving the nod to Eezox over Fireclean. All the fouling wiped off easily and then I went over the parts with a clean cloth and re-applied Eezox.

I'll be re-ordering Eezox, at least for now. Who knows if the results would be the same if I shot a larger number of rounds between cleanings. I'm going to take a friend shooting soon and will probably go through 500 rounds so I'll see how Eezox holds up then.

Since I have 2 bottles of Fireclean I'm going to use that up on my AR-15 bolts to see if it will help clean them up a little easier.

Fireclean wasn't bad by any means and maybe since it was the 2nd time I cleaned my suppressor it just seemed easier. But overall I do think the gunk wiped off better with Eezox.

 

Went to the range today and shot the same 10/22, 200 rounds GemTech Silencer Subsonic 22LR. Just finished cleaning my Dead Air Mask and I think I'm giving the nod to Eezox over Fireclean. All the fouling wiped off easily and then I went over the parts with a clean cloth and re-applied Eezox.

I'll be re-ordering Eezox, at least for now. Who knows if the results would be the same if I shot a larger number of rounds between cleanings. I'm going to take a friend shooting soon and will probably go through 500 rounds so I'll see how Eezox holds up then.

Since I have 2 bottles of Fireclean I'm going to use that up on my AR-15 bolts to see if it will help clean them up a little easier.

Fireclean wasn't bad by any means and maybe since it was the 2nd time I cleaned my suppressor it just seemed easier. But overall I do think the gunk wiped off better with Eezox.

You should try the DOT5 brake fluid method. That is what I use on my Spectre II, seems to work very well. I would be interested to know how the Eezox compares with the DOT5 method.

 

Dot5

www.rrdvegas.com/silencer-cleaning.html

Read the info on the link above or google it.

Basically, start with a clean can, clean with mineral spirits. Heat parts in oven. Remove from oven and place parts in DOT5 (or 100% silicone oil) for a few hours, till parts cool. Reassemble can. I just picked up some DOT5 brake fluid at my local auto parts store. I do this and it makes cleaning your can much easier.

 

I did the Dot5 treatment and frankly it was no better than just spraying the guts down with regular silicone spray. Neither prevented the fused hardened caking. The first try with Dot5 was just a slather on all the internals, and the second try was with the heat treatment. FYI, I have a TacSol Axiom and I shoot 200-300 rounds before cleaning in a heated ultrasonic with 50/50 Simple Green and distilled water. My next test is the welders' anti-spatter spray.

 

I have continued to experiment with different treatments. So far I have tried DOT 5, silicone, anti-seize, and anti-spatter spray. This list is in the order of effectiveness. I was most surprised and disappointed with the anti-spatter. It seems to lock arms with the rimfire caking and actually was by far the worst treatment, IMHO. Fireclean is next.

 

I got my Spectre II in last week. I immediately popped it apart and cleaned it real well in Acetone. Then I put all the parts on a baking sheet and put them in my Cerakote oven at 250 degrees for 20-30 minutes. I pulled them out and dropped them in the DOT 5 brake fluid for another 30 minutes. I pulled them out of that and put them on a paper towel to drip dry. After that I lightly patted the parts with towel just where they weren't dripping wet. For sure, there was still some brake fluid on them. Then I put it back together.

I have spent the last week shooting it occasionally, 25-100 rounds a day. It has approximately 500 rounds down it. I popped the end cap off this morning and this is what it looks like. No hard carbon fouling at all. Everything is just a soft grey paste that looks and has the same consistency as anti-sieze. You can take a paper towel and just wipe it right off.

I am not going to clean it yet. I am going to keep shooting and monitoring it until it gets to the point I feel it has to be cleaned, and see how many rounds that is.

This is what it looks like this morning: