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A Mark Pistol Jamming Study

8.6K views 20 replies 15 participants last post by  ThunderStick  
#1 ·
It would seem that a thread like this is long overdue.

I've been following the topic on RFC and other blogs for over 2 years, and it's quite apparent to me that even "the experts" are pretty clueless about what causes many types of jams.

The Mark III pistol I bought in October 2013 had a LONG LONG LONG list of problems. It was produced as part of the "million gun march". So, much of my time has been spent addressing all sorts of things. But the most pervasive and insidious of all has been the tendency to jam.

NIB - it had a 60-70% jamming rate, regardless of what ammo I used. The only one that did fairly well was CCI Stingers, with a WAY lower rate of only 10%. The worst was Winchester 555 at nearly 90%. Even SGW has problems with the Winchesters:

About the only feeding issues I have with my Ruger Mark pistols is with the Winchester Hollow-points. They seem to be too short and like to smack the ramp face.
My pistol has seen literally thousands and thousands of jams. Here's a list of the types I have identified:

----------------------------------------------------

JAM TYPES:

FTFire
1) good hit, no bang (DUDs)
2) light hit, no bang (fires on re-try)

FTFeed
3) feedramp jam (stuck at bottom of ramp)
4) over-run jam (bolt over-runs the rim)
5) overshoot jam (missed the chamber)
6) partial feed jam (stops part way in)
7) tip-up jam (hits top of chamber mouth)

FTE
8) still in chamber (FTExtract)
9) stovepipe (FTEject)

----------------------------------------------------

PRIMARY CAUSES:

1) Bad ammo.
2) #####
3) #####
4) #####
5) #####
6) #####
7) #####
8) #####
9) #####

----------------------------------------------------

I see all kinds of speculation and guesses about the causes. Do any of these "fixes" live in your "toolbag"?

Avoid using ammo brand X
Try a different magazine
Tip up the first round
Try replacing the -----

Sound familiar? I admit, I avoided Winchester 555 and a few other types/brands myself until recently. What did you get for Christmas? I spent my Christmas morning making (yet another) set of mods to my pistol. Even though mods I made over a year ago had my pistol running "good" ammo very reliably, it wasn't until Christmas that my pistol learned to LOVE Winchester 555 HPs.

I can now put any brand or type of .22LR SV/HV thru my pistol with at least 99.9% success. I think that qualifies me as some sort of an expert on jamming.

Over the course of the last year or so, I have mostly posted mods that have made my gun easier to take care of. The overall response from RFC members has been pretty luke-warm. I won't waste my time posting how to "jam proof" a mark pistol if nobody cares.

So the question is:
Does anybody want to know what really causes most jams?

As with most/all of my mods, they are meant to prove that these guns can be made better for their owner - not that you should change them from stock.
 
#2 ·
As a newbie to the Ruger line of 22/45 pistols I am very much interested in what causes the infamous "Ruger Jam Session". I have had my MK II for going on 30 years and it has always performed flawlessly. Now that I am the owner of two 22/45 pistols I have begun to experience the very scenarios you describe in your post.

So lay it on me and enlighten me so I can hopefully cure my Ruger blues. :(

Carl
 
#5 ·
Test Engineer, I agree with your concerns and am interested in what causes jams and what can be done to reduce the jam rate. I am a noob owner of a MkIII ss comp model and recently did 150 shot attempts at a private, outdoor range. I experienced 15 FTL, and 3 FTE. Ugh! I wasted more time carefully extracting jammed bullets than I have ever done with any other gun in my life.

FWIW, I am on my 51st year of owning a Remington Nylon 66 22lr. My first gun. Frankly, I cannot recall a jam and only a few FTF from bad ammo. This year I dusted off old faithful after a 10 year hibernation and blasted through an old box of Winchester Wildcat with out a burp. :bthumb:

Well back to my MkIII. This is with a NIB (uncleaned), unfired MkIII using Remington Thunderbolt. I am sure I'll take some flak for not cleaning and lubing a gun out of the box, but that is what I did on this gun. I was too excited about firing it at the time. When I got it home I broke it down and cleaned it and did some minor polishing. Yeah, that was an experience.

I plan to head back to the range with some Agulia ammo and she what happens next. I plan to follow this thread with great interest. I want to do what I need to do to make my MkIII function as best as possible.
 
#7 ·
I have used bulk ammo with almost 0 issues, sometimes with 500 + rounds at a time. Not sure what's up with your firearm be it crud in the gun itself, fouled, bad magazine,or the pistol is not right (send back to Ruger) but anyone who has used my Mark 111 has never had an issue and enjoyed the ease of use and accuracy 👍
 
#9 ·
I have been thru the same thing with a Mark 3 SS hunter. See a post just a few down from this one. I removed the LRI ,new extractor, and removed the mag disconnect. It is doing much better but not without some stovepipes. I would like to know more to do. It will not shoot any ammo below HV. Match ammo does not have enough power to fully eject.

Mark
 
#15 ·
List of the mods ive done to get mine to be a smooth operator.

1.Magazine tuning-greatly helped with rapid fire feeding.
Watch tandem kross's video on this-read the comments they are hilarious.
2.Replaced extractor.
3.Polished the sides of the firing pin just in case.
4.Vq sear.
5.Polished most internals.
6.Tk mag bushing

These dont affect reliability
7.Tk victory trigger.
8.Mech pencil spring to lighten trigger.
9.Blast shield to keep things cleaner.
10.Custom:D thumb rest.

I havent had any issues with a large variety of HV ammo.
I havent done the LCI filler yet because my wife likes to shoot my gun once in a while and I like to have that safety feature for her.

Its been a bit since Ive put SV ammo through it but havent had any problems. Though if that were to be my go to ammo type I would put in a reduced power spring in for the bolt.

Im considering mirror polishing my bolt to gain any little edge I can and maybe having it TiN coated, but probably not.
 
#16 ·
The only things I ever do to MkII for feeding are the extractor from Volquartsen, round the front corner of the rear lips and squeeze the front lips to drag just a little on the case. Some guns don't need even that. It is a mystery.

The remaining problem is the occasional bullet nose on the feed ramp. And we know what ruger should do about that. Lower the ramp or raise the bottom of the mag's notch in front to cover the ramp edge.
 
#18 ·
Lower the ramp or raise the bottom of the mag's notch in front to cover the ramp edge.
It's not too hard to extend the feed ramp. It took me about an hour to add an extra mm or so to the bottom. Haven't had a nose dive jam since regardless of bullet position in the mag.

http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=603906

All you need is a penny (or any other piece of metal 1 mm or so thick) dremmel, epoxy, and small file.
 
#19 ·
First, let me point out that Ruger designed these guns to work well with round nose HV ammo. If you are okay with this limitation, then a little tuning and a break-in period are all you most likely need.

Second, it is very unlikely that the Mark pistol you bought has any major problem. It will be VERY apparent if it does, and you should return it to them to be fixed before you start doing mods and upgrades. The poor quality Ruger produced during the "million gun march" is NOT the same quality they are producing today, and their customer service is pretty good.

That said, a small percentage of the guns they produce fall at the edge of certain tolerances. These are the guns that are most likely to have feeding problems. ANY of the Mark pistols can exhibit feeding problems when using wide-nose hollow points, such as the Winchester bulk ammo. But it is much more likely to jam in the mkiii pistols than in the earlier models. It is a MYTH that it's because the feedramp is too short! The ramp is the same length as it has been previously. My mkii and mkiii uppers are basically identical, except for the LCI cutout.

Many can attest to certain brands and/or types of ammo being more likely to have FTFire or FTE problems. The simple answer is to "find the ammo your gun likes". This answer is proven to work by-and-large, but is not acceptable to MY DEMANDS for what I expect my pistol to be. Thus I spent a ton of time and money getting to the root of the problem and fixing it.

This brings me to one more thing I want to address here. I know that SGW Gunsmith can be a little coarse at times. But without his generous and professional help, I could not have progressed to the successful conclusion of my quest. He always gives the best advice he can, free of charge to anyone who asks. You can choose to disagree or to not take the advice, but he always tries to steer the RFC community in a helpful direction.

For some here, I know it's hard. But I'm asking you to cut Dennis a little slack and "be nice". You never know - you may find yourself requiring his services one day, and it's better to not be his antagonist beforehand!

My Quest: make my mkiii feed, fire, and eject ANY brand and/or style of .22LR ammo without issue. This quest on the "under powered" side is successful, and I will next attempt to get the infamous "over powered" HHV ammo to run without beating the pistol to death.

For those who have asked, I will start a "jam-proofing your pistol" thread. I'm thinking maybe in 3 parts. It really is intended for people who have broken their pistols in, already tried everything Ruger, SGW, and other qualified people have suggested, and are still seeking "the quest".

Beginners - Start Here:

The best collection of advice in a single thread:
http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=600296

(General) Magazine tuning - the right way:
http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=507693