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56/57 light strikes/misfires

2.4K views 8 replies 4 participants last post by  mfguru  
#1 ·
In shooting my model 56 last weekend, I found about 50% of the Winchester Dynapoint GT rounds would not fire. They were not bad because my model 70 set them off just fine. In contrast, most CCI Blazer rounds fired fine. This indicates that the firing pin is striking a little too lightly. Has anyone fixed this problem on their model 56/57. I thought of cleaning up the firing pin and bolt but haven't had the brass to take it apart yet. Alternatively, I thought of putting a little rubber spacer around the hammer spring to raise it off the post a bit and make it under a little more compression. Thoughts? Also somewhere I thought I read that to remove pins in Marlin actions you should drive them out right to left? IS this right or does it matter or is it left to right?
TIA
Love the 56 action!:gun4:
 
#4 ·
Working on it

Hi guys, thanks for the replies.

I searched some more I found an old thread on Marlin Owners where someone said they tried lengthening the firing pin- that did nothing. Ok so I won't start by ordering a new firing pin or trying to add a little solder to the hammer end.

However, when he made a new hammer spring that seemed to work. Hmm after 55+ years it might be a little tired. Unfortunately they are not available on Numrich or through J&P springs so I wil try getting something close from a local hardware store or online from McMaster-Carr. In the meantime, I did get the right drift to remove the firing pin from the bolt. I cleaned it well, cleaned out the area of the bolt is sits in including the spring and then gently sanded (600 grit) the hammer where the sear rides on it when released. I will see if that did it at the range this weekend but I bet I need a new spring.
 
#5 ·
Hi guys, thanks for the replies.

I searched some more I found an old thread on Marlin Owners where someone said they tried lengthening the firing pin- that did nothing. Ok so I won't start by ordering a new firing pin or trying to add a little solder to the hammer end.

However, when he made a new hammer spring that seemed to work. Hmm after 55+ years it might be a little tired. Unfortunately they are not available on Numrich or through J&P springs so I wil try getting something close from a local hardware store or online from McMaster-Carr. In the meantime, I did get the right drift to remove the firing pin from the bolt. I cleaned it well, cleaned out the area of the bolt is sits in including the spring and then gently sanded (600 grit) the hammer where the sear rides on it when released. I will see if that did it at the range this weekend but I bet I need a new spring.
If you need, I will check and see if I still have an extra, original hammer spring. I just replaced one last week, but since its a recent repair job, I hate to part with it yet. Give me a couple of days before you order one, and I will see if I can find one for you. You cal also check with Dick Williams Gun Shop. They carry Marlin parts as well.

Also, I would replace the firing pin as well. Too much going on trying to lengthen one, so a new one would be best, along with a new spring. I am guessing your problem will more than likely just be the firing pin though, and not the spring. The firing pin will wear down long before the spring will weaken enough to give you light strikes.
 
#6 ·
Gizzy- Thanks for the offer of a new hammer spring. I am happy to buy one if I knew where to get it. I went ahead and pulled out the firing pin and spring and cleaned out the bolt as best I could and then I added a "Bushing" around the end of the hammer spring that sits against the post. Took it to the range and it worked much better. Since I only moved the end of the spring off the post about 3/16 of an inch, hard to believe I did much to spring tension. More likely cleaning did the trick? Still it is not as good as the model 70 I have so there is still room for improvement.

Also trying to adapt a model 70 10 round magazine to this gun. I cut off the stop on the side since this is too high up to fit in the magazine release lever hole on the model 56. I cut down the top front of the magazine so it goes into the magazine well high enough to interact with the bolt. Now I need to figure out how to put the magazine stop pin/bump back on to teh side of the magazine so it interacts and catches in the magazine release lever correctly. Any thoughts? I was going with a small screw? Mike
 
#7 ·
Gizzy- Thanks for the offer of a new hammer spring. I am happy to buy one if I knew where to get it. I went ahead and pulled out the firing pin and spring and cleaned out the bolt as best I could and then I added a "Bushing" around the end of the hammer spring that sits against the post. Took it to the range and it worked much better. Since I only moved the end of the spring off the post about 3/16 of an inch, hard to believe I did much to spring tension. More likely cleaning did the trick? Still it is not as good as the model 70 I have so there is still room for improvement.

Also trying to adapt a model 70 10 round magazine to this gun. I cut off the stop on the side since this is too high up to fit in the magazine release lever hole on the model 56. I cut down the top front of the magazine so it goes into the magazine well high enough to interact with the bolt. Now I need to figure out how to put the magazine stop pin/bump back on to teh side of the magazine so it interacts and catches in the magazine release lever correctly. Any thoughts? I was going with a small screw? Mike
I've yet to adapt any of my mags for the 56 I have...guess I'm slacking since it came with 2...
I was thinking JBWeld...

Actually, hrm...it might be easier to take a 795 mag release lever & install it...
I think I need to research that after I get thru with my current project...which is taking bloody forever...
 
#8 ·
56 mag

Gizzy-You think JB weld would be strong enuff to for the locking tab on the Mag?
Well it might not be needed at all. I was fitting a screw to the mag when I noticed that the 70 mag barely fit in the mag well as is. The locking tab needs to be about 1/16 of a inch tall. In fact after playing with a couple of potential small screws to use I realized that the fit was snug enuff with the mag alone that maybe no tab is needed. I tried loading the mag and it loaded and ejected all 10 rounds just fine! Range time needed.

I like your idea of using a 70 or 795 release lever but on my 70 the mag well is one unit unlike on the 56 where the mag release lever is separate and held in place with a couple of tabs that sit in locating holes in the side plates. Is the 795 different from the 70? Thanks Mike