That seems about right, except I think that you mixed up the 50 yard and 50 feet one.

 

Absolutely not.

 

Nothing odd here, it takes that high at 50 yards to land 'em on zero at 100. Snake's trajectory finding back up exactly what I have done before and what the ballistic calculators predict. Try shooting match ammo with a 100 yard zero; you'll be closer to 5'' to 6'' high at 100. The flattest shooting .22 long rifle I've ever tried has to be CCI Stingers. Zeroed at 75 yards put them right at 3/4'' high at 50 yards and 2'' low at 100 yards. I'd bet that a 100 yard zero would put them about 2-1/2'' to 3'' high at 50 yards midrange trajectory, just like the ballistic information predicts at CCI's website.

If a person wants to shoot much flatter than that, it'll take going to the .17 HMR. 100 yard zero gets you about 1/2'' high at 50 yards. You can set it up to about 1/2'' high at 100 yards and still be less than 1'' high at 50 yards and only about 2'' or so low at 200 yards. The .22 long rifle is effectively a 65 to 75 yard cartridge. Going further with it requires intimate knowledge of the trajectory and an ability to judge distances accurately (or a laser rangefinder).

 

Snake45,

I'm curious as to why you would want to sight in your .22LR at 100yds? This trajectory results in the bullet going so high above the line of sight at 50-80 yards that you have to be a very accurate judge of your target distance to know how much to compensate at those distances. Unless you are only shooting at 100yd targets, I'm having a hard time understanding your reasoning for a 100yd sight in. In James House's book The Gun Digest Book of .22 Rimfire, he says that in his opinion the effective practical range of a .22LR is 85yds and he recommends sighting in at 60 or 70yds. Like you, I would like to push the range of the .22LR as far as possible. I recently sighted my rifle in for 75 yds. Here are my test targets at 50, 75, and 100yds. As you can see, the Lapua HV HP ammo I am using (1280 fps muzzle velocity) hits about 1 1/4 inch high at 50yds and about 3 inches low at 100yds. With a 75yd sight in, you don't have to be nearly as accurate a judge of target distance to make appropriate compensations to hit your target at other than the sight in distance.

 

Snake45,

I'm curious as to why you would want to sight in your .22LR at 100yds? This trajectory results in the bullet going so high above the line of sight at 50-80 yards that you have to be a very accurate judge of your target distance to know how much to compensate at those distances. Unless you are only shooting at 100yd targets, I'm having a hard time understanding your reasoning for a 100yd sight in.

Because I will mainly be shooting this rifle at 100 yards, as it is accurate enough to make it interesting. That, and plinking at rocks/leaves/dirt clumps on the 125-yard backstop.

BTW, at my club range, it is not possible to shoot at 50-100 yards. The ground drops away into a mini-canyon just past the 50 yard line, and is not visible again from the firing line until 100 yards.

 

It is real handy to know how much your bullet drops at each distance so you know how many clicks up or down to move your sights when shooting at different distances. Otherwise, you just have to guesstimate the amount of holdover (or under) at different distances, this is not conducive to good accuracy.

 

And as you carefully, calculate, then adjust your turret's, your target walk's behind a tree, and out of your life..
Has anyone here , learned how to use a duplex reticle???
Or Iron Sight's??

 

There is alot to be said for good range estimation..
The Duplex has had that, built into it for eon's..
Most ,simply dont take the time to learn it..
Your chart's are good,, but allways when you get out to the extreme end's of the path,, small changes or veriation's , tend to get large..
What has allways been most important to me,, is understanding the peak distance befor thing's radicaly slow down..
Shortly after that point,, the world of Oudda come's down hard..
But understanding that is allways the key..

 

Leupold will gladly give you the sub tension value for any of their scopes at the highest power. If you want to shoot with less power they will provide that as well as how to determine in between powers. Once you have that you can establish almost instant yardage values for different distances and holdovers inside the reticle. Hope this helps.

 

125 yards is the farthest range I have access to, so that's as far as my interest goes for the time being.

Truth to tell, these days I do most of my rifle shooting either standing or snap-shooting (offhand) at 50 feet or 25 yards with various peep or open sighted rifles. It's all a matter of angles anyway, why walk down 100 yards to see that I'm shooting 6-8 MOA offhand when I can learn the same thing at 25 yards or less--and see the target more clearly besides?

But when I'm in the mood to shoot at 100 off the bench, or at least prone or slung-up sitting, my 100-sighted CZ will get the nod.

 

For a few year's ,I lived in the middle of a few miles of asparagas and bean's..
Shooting off a picknic table with a few refreshment's was a great learning experience..
But at the same time, I learned to shoot nealing, setting or prone, with close to the same efficency..
Definetly prone has many advantages..
I have spent plenty of time on a bench, developing load's..
But it is not the same as haveing multiple target's at many distances, for accually learning range estimation..
To this day,, I would rather do that, then set in a club, with timed and set rule's.
I often will set up a rifle to hunt with , from a bench , at a specific distance.
But befor I leave, I will again check, setting with my back to an object,, tire, bench ,or tree..
To simulate, my accual position , I likely will be in, when I do shoot..
When I spend too much time, at a set distance, with a rest,, with the same load's,, I get lazy and forget alot...
And kick myself , for doing that..

 

I once heard that shooting .22 LR at 100 yards is like shooting high-power rifles at 1000 yards. I don't know that that's exactly true, but it's still challenging. And I've found the more that I shoot my .22 at 100 yards, the smaller my groups at 50 yards get. So despite the .22 not really being powerful enough to ethically hunt with at 100 yards, it's still good practice. And besides, it's a lot of fun to outshoot some of the hot dogs out at the local range with their $2000 rifles with my 10/22.

 

if you want to check federals web site does all the calculations for you instantly takes all their ammo and will give comparisons.

 

Quote: I learned to shoot nealing, Unquote

I don't think I know this position. Got a description of it?

 

It's one small step for a man....

 

federals web site will do an instant analyisis of all their bullet trajetories:Blasting_

 

Do you get a commission from them, or something?

Computer programs and caluculations will get you on the paper, but every gun and ammo combination is a law unto itself, and the only way to KNOW what it will do is to SHOOT IT.

Fortunately, this happens to be fun.

 

This is really an interesting thread. Snake, I have more fun plinking at 100 yards and over. Small pieces of clay birds are a riot-they just vaporize!

 

Me too! I just love bouncing a leaf or small rock around on the 125-yard backstop.

 

The range I usually shoot at has gongers set up at 200 yards... it's fun to shoot those too... ;-) Course, it almost feels like you could get out and push the bullet faster than it actually travels... At almost 3/4 of a second flight time, I have time to laugh before it hits the plate... It's awesome...

 

at my club range, it is not possible to shoot at 50-100 yards.

That's a shame, because my Marlin 39 seems to work best when sighted in at 75yds. I don't really have to worry about hold over/hold under for everything from 50yds to 100yds.

 

I`m still trying to digest this. I shoot mostly indoors at 50ft. My 50ft zero is 3 inches low at 100 yards.

 

Which is about right for a 36 grain bullet moving at a muzzle velocity of 1,300 fps. What ammo are you actually using?

Anyway, a 50' zero with a 3" drop at 100 yards should give you about:

25 yards: +0.5"
50 yards: +1.0"
75 yards: -0.1" (or back to the 50' zero for all practical purposes)

 

i'v always zeroed my 22's at 25 feet and it is the same at 100 yds.

 

this makes for a fun trange day , i generally take a couple - on an occasion like this take six

 

I nominate this for Necrothread of the Month. But since it's been brought back to life....

I shoot Rimfire Silhouettes, where the targets are at 40, 50, 75 and 100 yards (at our range, others differ) and the most important thing is knowing where your gun shoots at each of those distances. Nearly every new shooter comes out with a "50-yard zero" and some idea of how to adjust from there, but as the graph above shows, there is no such thing as a 50-yard zero and they typically have a lot of trouble at the longer distances. The trajectory is so flat around 50 yards that few of us can tell the difference between a zero anywhere between around 40 and 55 yards. And it doesn't matter if your target is at 50. It matters when you adjust up a few inches for 100 and your "50-yard zero" was actually at 40 or 55+.

The calculations are useful but if you want to shoot at 100 yards you also need to zero at that distance, or at least at something greater than 50.

 

The calculations are useful but if you want to shoot at 100 yards you also need to zero at that distance, or at least at something greater than 50.

Actually if you are shooting at multiple distances with the same rifle and the same zeroed optic then knowing your gun, optic and ammo being used will allow you to either dial the scope to cover the different distances both longer and shorter or in the case of a graduated reticle use the holdovers to accommodate the different ranges.

Most of the time I prefer a 50 yard zero as that would be the most common distance I would be shooting and it is rare I would ever go further than 100yds with a .22lr hence the 50 yard zero gives me the middle of the ground to shoot further or closer than the 50 yard zero with the least amount of adjustment required for either direction other than 50 yards.

 

I thought this thread looked familiar, has been resurrected from Dec 2007!!

 

Graphs and data published by manufacturers are for reference only. If you have a chronograph, you can get pretty darn close to figuring out your dope, but you still need to confirm.

I zero at 50 because the trajectory is pretty flat out to that distance, then it starts to drop like a brick. The SK Semi Auto that I typically shoot needs 6.5 MOA to get from 50 to 100.

 

When you shoot up to 300 gophers a day, @ 50-200 yrds for years you have all this in your head. Duplex or mil-dot are a must have for one shot kills.

 

For me, dead on at 25 yards was 1" high at 50 yards and dead on again at 100 yards. That's with CCI standard velocity 40gr 1070fps from a 16" barrel. Longer or shorter barrels will differ, as will different ammo.

 

For me, dead on at 25 yards was 1" high at 50 yards and dead on again at 100 yards. That's with CCI standard velocity 40gr 1070fps from a 16" barrel. Longer or shorter barrels will differ, as will different ammo.