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1407-U9 Trigger Adjustment

2.7K views 20 replies 8 participants last post by  Penage Guy  
#1 ·
I recently purchased a 1407 rifle. The trigger is very, very light. My 52E and M12 have triggers about 1.25 pounds of pull. I understand that turning the 1407 trigger counter-clockwise will increase the weight of pull.
My questions are: bolt in or out of rifle, and how much to turn the adjustment screw to get to about a .75 to 1 pound pull?
Thanks for your help.
Ken
 
#3 · (Edited)
I think they got the screw numbers backwards in the drawing.

As I recall, (79) is the sear screw for 2nd stage take-up and won't change the weight much.

You won't get a 1407-U9 (two-stage hair trigger) trigger spring adjustment (screw 85) to go as high as you want without a spring change.

On the trigger pictured screw 85 also adjusts the first stage length (with the inverted bell shaped head) and the bell shaped screw head was eliminated on later versions of 1407-U9...Tom
 
#6 ·
Below is another layout of Anschutz information for the 1407-U9 trigger with instructions in three languages.

It's worth observing that screw number #25 above (same as screw #79 below and on the image in post #2) is referred to by Anschutz as the "trigger pull lever screw". See the red underline in the two bottom images.

It would appear that whether it's screw #25 or screw #79, it's the screw that adjusts trigger pull weight.







 
#10 · (Edited)
Below is another layout of Anschutz information for the 1407-U9 trigger with instructions in three languages.

It's worth observing that screw number #25 above (same as screw #79 below and on the image in post #2) is referred to by Anschutz as the "trigger pull lever screw". See the red underline in the two bottom images. It would appear that whether it's screw #25 or screw #79, it's the screw that adjusts trigger pull weight.
The "trigger pull lever" does not refer to weight. The trigger gets pulled, weight notwithstanding. "Trigger pull lever" is a part and not the same as "trigger pull weight" .

The very sentence you (partially) underline says the exact opposite of your statement that the horizontal screw (#25 or #79) controls pull weight. It controls engagement not weight, regardless of whether "it would appear" (in three languages). By underlining only the part of the sentence that you liked, you have taken it 180 degrees out of context...Tom

"With all thy getting, get understanding"
 
#9 · (Edited)
The instructions for the first and second photos above contradict each other, so I believe it is safe to say something is amiss, therefore don't believe everything you read.

TRIGGER PULL LEVER AND SPRING:

Image


This is the trigger pull lever and spring, oriented the same way as the pictures. The vertical tit on the far right, facing down, goes inside the top of the spring shown alongside. You can see this spring by looking in the front of the trigger assembly. The bottom of this spring engages the vertical adjustment screw.

The vertical adjustment screw in front of the trigger blade compresses this trigger spring from the bottom and adjusts spring tension. It does not move the trigger pull lever whatsoever, just tension applied to overcome (pull weight). It has little effect on pull weight without a spring change, perhaps an ounce or two on this 5 to 7 ounce trigger.

The vertical adjustment screw also provides another function, by trigger blade contact with the "bell" on the vertical adjustment screw (photos above) first stage travel is adjustable. I have had several of these triggers. When I asked him why I have a two-stage trigger without the bell, Neal Stepp told me this bell was eliminated on later versions of the 1407-U9, photo below. Indeed, this screw can be adjusted so there is no trigger blade contact with the bell thereby maximizing first stage travel.

The horizontal (perpendicular) adjustment screw in the side of the trigger blade engages the beveled surface at the bottom of the trigger pull lever, right side. This screw is a trigger pull lever stop and controls the trigger pull lever travel (rotation) and sear engagement, said rotation around a pin through the top left hole in the trigger pull lever. Guy, your red underlined words say exactly that (same sentence just past the underlined part), referring to the degree of engagement...Tom

Image
 
#11 ·
Thomas, it seems that your claim that the Anschutz literature and instructions about how to adjust the 1407-U9 (and older 1404-U8) trigger is wrong must be a relatively new one. No one, apparently including you, has previously made it on this forum.

When I asked him why I have a two-stage trigger without the bell, Neal Stepp told me this bell was eliminated on later versions of the 1407-U9, photo below.
Perhaps you misremember what you were told. The "bell" was never eliminated on later versions of the 1407-U9 trigger. It's always been there up to when the 14xx series became the 16xx. The photo you show is not the 1407-U9 trigger. It's more likely the 1411-U8 trigger.
 
#12 · (Edited)
I can only report what Neal Stepp told me. Again, it was a two stage hair trigger and the 1411-U8 is a three pound single stage.

I am saying the Anschutz instructions contradict each other, including your examples in post #6. Instructions for your first two images contradict your #3 and #4 images.

I have explained which is correct. Showed it originally in my post #5 above. Why is this so difficult?

Here are the correct instructions from Anschutz which reverse the functions of the adjustment screws from the OP's incorrect instructions:

Image
 
#13 ·
I can only report what Neal Stepp told me. Again, it was a two stage hair trigger and the 1411-U8 is a three pound single stage.
It's not clear what Neal Stepp told you. In post #9 you claim has the 1407-U9 trigger's "bell" eliminated by Anschutz itself. Below is another picture of the trigger you say is the Anschutz 1407-U9 trigger without the familiar bell.



The same trigger is shown below in an Anschutz document. It's a 3 lb single stage model identified by Anschutz as the 1411-U8 trigger. This is an older 3 lb trigger. The more familiar 3 lb trigger is of course the 1411-U2.





I have explained which is correct. Showed it originally in my post #5 above. Why is this so difficult?
Perhaps it's difficult because of the apparent ambiguity in Anschutz's instructions.

Below are the instructions you say are correct. These instructions seems to say that the "bell" screw (#28) will adjust the length of travel of the first stage. To clarify, are you saying that this information means that it also adjusts weight of pull or only adjusts weight of pull?

 
#14 ·
#28 on 1402-U8 is same as #85 on 1407-U9. this screw adjusts LENGTH of pull for first stage. Screwing it in lengthens first stage pull, screwing out shortens length of pull. This screw has nothing to do with WEIGHT of pull. Screw #25 and #79 respectively adjust WEIGHT of pull.
My 1407 is adjusted with a long LENGTH of pull. I like the long first stage pull before it hits the second stage stop. WEIGHT of pull is about 2.5-3.0oz.
 
#15 ·
Here's a thought: how similar are the two internally? I have no mechanical bent, but the instructions Glenn attached at post #13, seem odd for a two stage. Screw 25 is described as adjusting catch overlap rather than weight: the resistance mentioned is the resistance of the overlapping surfaces, although this could feel like weight to the user. Similarly, screw 28 could trade time for weight.

In short did Anschutz develop these triggers together, but describe similar actions differently?
 
#16 · (Edited)
It is clear I am the only one here who has actually worked on them and understands how they work inside. Others here (not Tim) have relied upon faulty instructions in their stubborn expert dead-wrong opinions, ignoring the simple facts in post #9.

AGAIN ANSCHUTZ INSTRUCTIONS CONTRADICT EACH OTHER as explained above. I have explained which Anschutz instructions are faulty and why. Don't shoot the messenger. The correct Anschutz instructions are below (again).

Most Anschutz triggers are the same basic design, excluding the modern (16XX, 18XX, and 19XX) match triggers. All horizontal screws in the side of an Anschutz trigger blade are sear screws. This includes, among others the 5094 and 5098 triggers. In short, all Anschutz triggers that use the trigger pull lever design (shown in post #9) adjust the same way.

Hard to swallow? Scroll to near the bottom of this Anschutz link: Maintenance Tips

Of course, as we all know, adjusting sear engagement can affect weight of pull through friction change, which is why weight of pull is often adjusted after adjusting the sear engagement.

Since the designs are the same I am using the terms vertical screw (in front of the blade) and horizontal (perpendicular) screw (in the side of the blade) to simplify things and avoid confusing screw numbers. Again the vertical and horizontal screws are the only adjustments and they both work through the trigger pull lever.

TRIGGER PULL LEVER AND SPRING:

Image



Let's try looking at the trigger: The vertical screw adjusts spring tension on the trigger pull lever, readily apparent by looking in the front of the trigger. Adjusting spring tension with the vertical screw CAN NOT control sear engagement. Repeat: adjusting spring tension can not control travel (sear engagement)?

The horizontal screw is the trigger pull lever stop and controls trigger pull lever travel (sear engagement). This is not readily apparent so I have explained how the horizontal screw it is an adjustable stop. Post #9 shows this lever and explains how it works in detai. As do the CORRECT Anschutz instructions below. Turn the horizontal screw and watch the trigger pull lever rotate.

Ignore the part about Neal Stepp as it appears confusing. It was simply to describe the two (2) functions of the 1407-U9 vertical screw and how one function (length of first stage pull controlled by the bell) is not much use. Indeed, the bell can be adjusted out (or eliminated as Neal described) so the bell does nothing. This means the primary function of the vertical screw is on the spring, adjusting tension (weight of pull).

It's not that complicated. To stubbornly insist the vertical screw pushing on a spring affects travel (engagement) is a sign of blind faith in faulty instructions and a complete lack of understanding...Tom

CORRECT INSTRUCTIONS:

Image
 
#17 ·
Realizing this is an old posting, how do you tell the difference between the 1411 U-8, 1411 U2, and the 1407 U9? Reading thru the above information is very confusing. Is the bell on part 28 the only difference? Can a 2 stage trigger be made from a 1411 U8? To me, the 1411-U8 and the 1407-U9 look identical. Also, the 1411-U8 looks identical to the 1411-U2 except for the length of pull adjustment on the 1411-U8 trigger blade. Can someone help me out?
 
#18 ·
The 1411-U2 and 1411-U8 triggers are shown below. The 1411-U8 is likely the older version of the same trigger with the trigger blade configuration being the obvious difference.

The 1407-U9 is shown third below. It's distinguished by the "bell" adjacent to the number 85. There is an older version of this same trigger, the 1404-U8. It is shown at the bottom and the "bell" is adjacent to the number 28.