WELCOME!

Was this new to you gun used?
If so..it sounds that way..it was Bubba'd. New Sear is in order..unfortunately a better adjustable sear/hammer combo such as Power Custom would have been a MUCH better buy that the VQ hammer..MUCH. Trouble is now that a PC Sear probably will not play well with the VQ hammer..been there..was a fail.
So..a new OEM is your only move..or sell the VQ hammer and buy PC set w/ADJUSTABLE Sear..or better yet a KID kit...nun beda!

http://www.coolguyguns.com/Ruger-10-22-trigger-job-kit_p_95.html

 

Two questions for ya Chase. Who is PC, and will a Kidd kit with the sear and hammer work in a TI Trigger housing? I have an unknown kit in my purple gun. While it's not horrible, I'm curious if the Kidd trigger kit is still an option.

 

OP,

If Bubba got in there before ya, maybe he squirreled up the works by overdoing things, or maybe not. You risk stuff like this happening anytime you go dinking around with stuff affecting the trigger group’s geometry. The sear leg or tail or whatever you wanna call the end that’s opposite hammer engagement has been raised and so now it’s hovering too high above the safety barrel and now it needs to be lengthened via peening.

The tip end of the sear “tail” is supposed to dip down and end up hovering above just barely clearing the safety barrel when it has been shoved over to the “safe” position. It’ll be blocking any attempted trigger pull from causing more than just barely a hint of movement by the sear. If there’s too much clearance allowing the sear too much movement then it’ll disengage from the hammer shelf but the safety barrel will still prevent the hammer from falling any further up until you shove the safety over to the “fire” position where now the hammer is let fly and it gonna make bang if there was a live one in the chamber.



ww,

PC would mean “Power Custom”, and a lot quicker typin’.

The Kidd Trigger Job Kit ought to work out fine in TI’s trigger housing AFTER you swap out or modify the TI trigger return spring and plunger which along with the set screw backing them doubles as trigger return and overtravel stop.

Either replace the TI pieces with an OEM like return plunger and spring or maybe shorten the TI plunger making it the same dimensions as an OEM plunger, either way ridding it of its overtravel stop duties and so using an OT stop in the trigger blade or trigger guard. The set screw is still used to adjust the installed height or preload on either an OEM like return spring or one from Kidd available as a set of springs.

 

P.S. for those of you who are concerned ...the rifle was unloaded, I was doing a post assembly function test>>>>no round was spent in this process....

You did the right thing by testing the safety. I suspect there are a lot of 1022s out there that the owners never performed this test after modifying the trigger.

If you just install the trigger, sear and disconnector assembly you can look down inside the housing and see where the sear is dragging on the safety.

 

Ya. That's exactly what's happening. The sear leg is hovering to high off the safety barrel. Allowing the sear to disengage but still hang up on hammer. We'll I guess I will attempt to elongate sear leg, with a few hard whacks. Luckily I am a machinist by trade. If part was bigger I would use a hammer press to help. I'll keep u updated ........

 

You are on the right track...and if the engagement surfaces have not been rounded the peening/elongating should work..
Now, there is a thread called JB Weld Trick for removing the pre-travel..it's pain in the ARSS IMO...best thing to do is drill and tap in 6x40 and add a set screw to dial out the pre-travel. That is what a PC Adj. Sear is. Does required annealing then re-hardening after you are finished. Also drill a hole in your trigger so you can adjust it on a live fire session.

 

JB Weld

One more thing...has anyone used JB Weld on a sear. How well will it hold up?

 

I haven't, but my shooting buddy has. He did his trigger maybe 5 years ago using the "JB Weld trick", and it's held up just fine.