Why not just shorten the original barrel to 16in and thread it? Or do you want a heavy barrel?

 

Factory barrels cut and threaded often shoot just fine, for a 10/22 the Factory LVT threaded barrel shoots well, I have Beyer and Fedderson barrels that both shoot very well. JME

 

Why not just shorten the original barrel to 16in and thread it? Or do you want a heavy barrel?

Thanks for the quick replies. Yes, I was thinking heavy barrel. I have a Green Mountain 16.25" .920 barrel. If threaded with a cap, does it still meet the barrel length requirement for a rifle? I assume threading doesn't affect overall length or require recrowning?? If that is the case, do you know a good place to send a barrel for threading and a cap?

 

Oops...just realized there is an NFA section these days. Didn't scroll down far enough before posting...

 

As long as you don't cut a barrel shorter than 16", either threaded or not makes no difference as the threaded section is still part of the rifled barrel - i.e. doesn't become an NFA item.

Note that there are some states, such as CA, that consider a threaded barrel an evil feature and a violation of state law.

When threading a barrel, it's important to center the bore of the barrel in the lathe. That way the new threads will be perfectly concentric with the bore and a muzzle devise will then also be centered.

 

As long as you don't cut a barrel shorter than 16", either threaded or not makes no difference as the threaded section is still part of the rifled barrel - i.e. doesn't become an NFA item.

Note that there are some states, such as CA, that consider a threaded barrel an evil feature and a violation of state law.

When threading a barrel, it's important to center the bore of the barrel in the lathe. That way the new threads will be perfectly concentric with the bore and a muzzle devise will then also be centered.

When I thread mine, I use a centering tailstock. You'd be shocked if you knew the amount of factory barrels i've done and the bore was not centered.

 

For the price of a nice aftermarket barrel, it's not worth it to have the original machined. Plus, when finished... you still have both barrels. lol

Suppressed .22lr with standard/subsonic ammo is very quiet! I've even seen people use those $40 solvent traps on 22's and it's still insanely quiet. Most of the aftermarket barrels will shoot extremely well.

Keep in mind, the suppressor creates a lot of back pressure. Lots of the stuff that ordinarily gets blown out the muzzle gets trapped. Some never makes it out of the receiver/barrel, and some gets collected in the suppressor. The gun and magazine will need cleaned a lot more often than normal. But, IT'S WORTH IT. lol

Completely different experience not having to wear ear protection, and actually hearing the bullet hit its target! Shooting non-paper targets creates a completely different experience! You'll definitely enjoy it!

 

Thanks for all the information and helpful replies everybody. This is good stuff. I've heard some say suppressors tend to improve accuracy. Wondered what your experience has been. I know barrel makers have been discussed a lot here on the forum. I suspect common conclusions apply also to suppressed shooting - the preferred supersonic manufacturers are also the best for shooting supersonic as well. Presently leaning toward a threaded Kidd barrel. Thinking heavy steel rather than a sleeved light weight barrel will be the direction I'm headed. Looking to shoot year round from a bench at home range without disturbing the neighbors. Closest house is about 400 yards away. Stopped shooting centerfire at home years ago as more people have moved to the country. Hoping suppressed rimfire will be quiet enough on our little 6 acres. Anxious to find out how quiet these suppressors really are.

 

I have experience with both factory threaded barrels and having a factory barrel threaded. Having the barrel threaded cost me around $125 many years ago and a pre-threaded barrel from Feddersen (straight taper, not bull) was $213 after sales tax in Tennessee. I'm very pleased with the Feddersen and wouldn't change it. The factory barrels I've had threaded have also been good. I know a competent gunsmith who does the job right and accuracy has not been negatively affected by cutting them. I qualified as a Rifleman with the factory 10/22 with the chopped and threaded factory barrel and the suppressor every time we shot at a Project Appleseed clinic.

My experience with suppressors is that they have negligible effect on muzzle velocity and a slightly negative effect on groups size. My platforms are a CZ 457 with a chopped down to 18" from 20.5" factory varmint contour barrel, a Ruger 10/22 chopped down to 16" from 22" factory barrel and a Frankenrifle 10/22 with a Feddersen 17" factory threaded barrel. My suppressors are the TacSol Axiom and a Dead Air Mask HD. If I'm shooting for absolute accuracy and the smallest groups possible, I leave the suppressor off. If I'm hunting or just having fun and shooting things, not paper, I shoot with the suppressor.

Suppressors on centerfire rifles may improve accuracy...mainly because they significantly reduce recoil and concussion and the shooter would be more relaxed shooting than if the suppressor wasn't attached. Hanging a weight off the end of the barrel changes the harmonics, so it's impossible to predict if it helps, is neutral or if it hurts. You just gotta test it.

If you are going to shoot a 10/22 suppressed, choose a 16" barrel (to keep the muzzle velocity as low as possible), replace the steel buffer behind the bolt with a nylon or silicone one, and stay away from ammo above 1100 fps. The nylon or silicone bolt buffer will help reduce the noise created by the action. That's my opinion and experience and it's worth every penny you paid for it.

 

When I shoot in the back yard, My wife (inside the house) doesn't know. I have to
tell her ahead of time so she doesn't come out. Also have to tell her when I'm done.
Silencerco Sparrow on either a Tikka or a CZ. Very quiet.

 

The shaw barrel sold on Brownells has shot well for me with a SRD22X. Pretty inexpensive accurate barrel.

 

LocoGringo, spot on!
" ... If you are going to shoot a 10/22 suppressed, choose a 16" barrel (to keep the muzzle velocity as low as possible), replace the steel buffer behind the bolt with a nylon or silicone one, and stay away from ammo above 1100 fps. The nylon or silicone bolt buffer will help reduce the noise created by the action. "

Experience: Tuffer-Buffer fits firmly.

Best.

 

I thought about the having the original barrel cut and threaded, but it would have cost about the same as buying a new 16.5 factory contour threaded Fedderson barrel. I was able to get the Fedderson within a week and didn't have to leave the house. The new barrel went in fine, fit the stock, and proved more accurate than the original. The can on the end made it even better. No complaints here.

 

All sounds good. I appreciate all the advice. It's been worth every penny I paid for it - and more Seriously though - this is the kind of information I have been looking for. Yep - none of my trusty old 10-22's have the steel bolt buffer. They've all been changed out. And yep - going with the 16" barrel to keep everything as short as possible and all ammo clocking at less than 1,100 fps. 5" suppressor is already in the vault - I'm just in that "now I've got to wait until that stamp comes through" purgatory. Trying to be patient, but also getting pretty excited to give this business a whirl. I can afford a Kidd, but being a certified penny pincher, I'm a little enticed by Fedderson for the cost. Seems like many here are happy with theirs. I'll bet Volquartsen would do a nice job of threading my 16.25" Green Mountain fluted barrel that I've been shooting for the last 15 years or so. I'm no sharpshooter, but I shot 30 out of 30 with it at our our local bench rest silhouette competition last month out to the 100 yard mark: 10 of 10 at 50. 10 of 10 at 75. 10 of 10 at 100. Got 8 of 10 at 164 and 2 of 10 at 219. Still haven't quite dialed in those longer distances yet, but that's not bad shooting for me and it sure is fun. Wonder if threading that barrel would change the way it shoots. Guess I'd just have to roll the dice if I decide to go that route. That barrel even outshoots some of the CZ guys every now and then. Just a bunch of old guys out for a good time. So now I just have to make up my mind on which way to go. Decisions. Decisions. All part of the fun... Thanks guys!

 

I pretty much given up shooting on the property because them jokers ring so loud. I do my best to keep my shooting on the DL

I hear you!

 

Tacsol SBX barrel if your suppressor is thin enough. Tactical Solutions Inc. - Product Detail - FX039810 - $400.00

 

I liked my tactical solutions SBX barrel because of the shorter length when suppressed. Very handy.

 

I wouldn't cut and thread a barrel, unless the cost of a new threaded one was cost prohibitive, and most aren't...not for a 10/22 anyway. You can find threaded barrels all over the place from over $500 to under $200, some new, some used, so pick you poison. I have a Kidd 6" charger barrel on my SBR and a Gunparts on the full size, pretty sure I didn't pay more than $175 for either, in the end it's your money.