receiver

What receiver?

 

I have the original ruger oem receiver. / i'll upload photos of how it gets stuck in installation as soon as i can.

It seems that the guide rod forces my vq bolt to install at an angle (since it threads through the bolt) and it gets stuck.

I have never had trouble removing and installing the oem bolt.

Yes the bolt buffer is removed - I kind of had to remove it to take out the old bolt hehe.

I have purchased many volquartsen products - including their trigger kit, extractor for my old oem bolt, vq takedown screw, and polymer buffer.

 

this advice was the worst ever lol..... for me anyways..

I'm not blaming you. but blaming myself as now my guide rod is jammed into my receiver refusing to budge either way.

i tried it and it slipped and now the bolt is wedged fully forward into the receiver and the guide rod is slipped out of place.

my bolt is now fully forward stuck inside my receiver, guide rod and spring assembly stuck above the recess where it is supposed to be.

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edit i fixed it by just bending the guide rod with a wrench. I'm now pondering what to do....

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i thank everyone for their advice, and Ole Man River I have nothing against you. it was my fault.

 

I've never had that problem, but when I contacted Volquartsen about another issue, Scott? there was very helpful. I'd give Volquartsen a call before going any further.

TBR

 

Before you reach for the Dremel-

Try to fit the bolt WITHOUT the guide rod/bolt handle assy in the action. This way, you'll know if it's a problem with the bolt not fitting the receiver.

If the bolt fits, then you know that getting the bolt handle assy is the culprit- typically a tight fit- no wear no slop situation...

 

Before you reach for the Dremel-

Try to fit the bolt WITHOUT the guide rod/bolt handle assy in the action. This way, you'll know if it's a problem with the bolt not fitting the receiver.

If the bolt fits, then you know that getting the bolt handle assy is the culprit- typically a tight fit- no wear no slop situation...

^^x2!

I just finished a Razor (I know, different) and had to modify the rail to allow the KID bolt to drop in at an angle. Only about .030, but makes a difference. I see in the vid where the VQ bolt has to go in at an angle.

Try it w/o the spring/rod. That will let you know right away.

Robert

 

IIRC there was issues with some bolt handle assemblies when a VQ bolt was installed and the surface on the handle that rides in the top of the rec. had to be flat filed...I think Hipshot may shed some light on that..I think he had one that did that. Plop your handle in the bolt recess and see if it's flush or not.

 

sorry for the above youtube link - this is the model bolt - guiderod/spring i have

the bolt by itself fits flush and from what i see should cycle fine.

i'm afraid of installing the guide rod at an angle and then re-adjusting with pliers only in the sense that it might get stuck or jammed.

thanks for the replies

/cheers

p.s.

ill try to get pictures up - trying to find the data cable.

 

I have one them in my mach2... Seat the point of the guidrod in its detent keep the bolt as square as possible when lowering it in. its hard to keep it square. Presure from the guid rod spring wants to teak it..if its tweaked it will bind and not want to go in...a
Ace

 

VQ bolt

I have that exact same bolt on the way back from Swampy. I thiought it was a conversion bolt. Turns out it is the VQ competition bolt. I just learned something here.

 

VQ competition bolt

Got the above mentioned bolt back. Also had a hard time getting in in at first. It would only go in one way and that was to leave the spring and guide rod off and tip the bolt up at the rear. Then it would easily slip into place. Trouble is, you can't tip the bolt up at the rear with the guide rod and spring installed.

On further inspection I found the bolt was hanging up on the very end of the guide ridge / rail machined into the receiver. There is a small cutout in the VQ bolt to allow for this, but the extractor occupies some of this cutout. Doesn't lack much to let the bolt go on in. I took a file and slowly files a little off the end of this rail. The bolt now slips in with minimal restriction. Boy when that bolt is in place it is velvetly smooth. I like the handle attaching directly to the bolt thus giving ya a straight like pull. No loose parts like the offset T bar of standard Ruger design.

Having said the above, I do still have one problem. The bolt handle fits into a hole drilled directly into the bolt. There is a dimple drilled in it's shaft. The screw that holds it in is located in the end of the bolt. Thing is, to tighten the bolt handle ya gotta remove the barrel to get a screw driver to it. It is a pretty small screw. I have never seen a small screw driver that small bent into a 90 degree configeration that would operate in the little space it has to be able to tighten that handle retainer as I will be using a threaded receiver.

Question for you metal guys. Can a hardened steel bolt be threaded? If so that is the answer to using a bolt handle that fits dierctly to the bolt. If not maybe I can get Randy to furnish some kind of special screwdrive with a shaft that fits snugly into the hole the little retaining screw fits in? I want to be able to remove the bolt without having to use a barrel vise. Anyone ever tackled this? How did you get past having to remove the barrel to remove the bolt? There's gotta be a way.

An ideal fix would be to find a small rachet screwdriver with a shaft the correct sice to enable one to fit it on the reatiner screw blind. Would have to be in 90 degree configeration. Don't think you can see the screw hole even with the bolt all the way back? Maybe I'm overlooking something?

 

Got the above mentioned bolt back. Also had a hard time getting in in at first. It would only go in one way and that was to leave the spring and guide rod off and tip the bolt up at the rear. Then it would easily slip into place. Trouble is, you can't tip the bolt up at the rear with the guide rod and spring installed.

On further inspection I found the bolt was hanging up on the very end of the guide ridge / rail machined into the receiver. There is a small cutout in the VQ bolt to allow for this, but the extractor occupies some of this cutout. Doesn't lack much to let the bolt go on in. I took a file and slowly files a little off the end of this rail. The bolt now slips in with minimal restriction. Boy when that bolt is in place it is velvetly smooth. I like the handle attaching directly to the bolt thus giving ya a straight like pull. No loose parts like the offset T bar of standard Ruger design.

Having said the above, I do still have one problem. The bolt handle fits into a hole drilled directly into the bolt. There is a dimple drilled in it's shaft. The screw that holds it in is located in the end of the bolt. Thing is, to tighten the bolt handle ya gotta remove the barrel to get a screw driver to it. It is a pretty small screw. I have never seen a small screw driver that small bent into a 90 degree configeration that would operate in the little space it has to be able to tighten that handle retainer as I will be using a threaded receiver.

Question for you metal guys. Can a hardened steel bolt be threaded? If so that is the answer to using a bolt handle that fits dierctly to the bolt. If not maybe I can get Randy to furnish some kind of special screwdrive with a shaft that fits snugly into the hole the little retaining screw fits in? I want to be able to remove the bolt without having to use a barrel vise. Anyone ever tackled this? How did you get past having to remove the barrel to remove the bolt? There's gotta be a way.

An ideal fix would be to find a small rachet screwdriver with a shaft the correct sice to enable one to fit it on the reatiner screw blind. Would have to be in 90 degree configeration. Don't think you can see the screw hole even with the bolt all the way back? Maybe I'm overlooking something?

I've been emailing scott volquartsen and hes been very helpful

do not manipulate the bolt handle retaining screw that holds the spring in place.

to operate the bolt handle you simply pull it out to remove and then push it and and turn until you hear a click.

if your bolt handle isn't operating this way you definitely have a problem on your hands.

 

bolt handle

So this handle actually tightens a spring? I got is used and no paperwork. I'll try it. Thanks.

 

Thank you

Thank you edhat. Works like a charm. Still learning in my old age!

 

Thank you edhat. Works like a charm. Still learning in my old age!

*a little more info*
no problem. theres a detent that the bolt handle clicks into.

when you rotate the hand the spring snags and locks the handle in place.

-

and no problem at all - happy shooting!

 

I figured I'd drag this thread back up, since I've got a similar problem. I've got a VQ HM2 barrel and bolt in a stock receiver. It initially wouldn't install well, but got it working pretty well with a little clean up on the receiver. Worked like a charm. Until, now. After the last cleaning, I went to reinstall the bolt and apparently the guide rod slipped out of the detent in the receiver while I was putting it in. Just like the original poster, I've now got the rod and the bolt stuck in the receiver. The front of the rod is out of the hole in the bolt that normally carries it, preventing the bolt from moving more than 1/8 inch or so forward and backward.

So far, this appears to be an IQ test that I'm failing. I feel like there's got be some way to get the guide rod back into its hole in the bolt, but it's not easy. In particular, the detent bulge in the receiver prevents me from being able to line the guide rod up properly, so every effort involves trying to angle it in somehow. Since I can't see where exactly the guide rod end is hitting the bolt relative to the hole, it's pretty hard to know how to adjust it.

The original poster solved this problem by just bending the guide rod and pulling it out. I would prefer to avoid that solution if possible. Additionally, I've got a Kidd guide rod, which after an hour or so of monkeying with it, I can tell you really is made of the high quality tool steel that Kidd claims ;-) I guarantee you will not damage one of them by accident, and it's not even clear that I can damage it on purpose.

I'd love to hear from anyone who's managed to figure this one out.

Thanks!

 

Well, I got it out. I let it sit for a few hours. I picked it up again, this time resigned to do some damage to that guide rod and force it out. First pull of the bolt handle and the guide rod slid right back into the hole in the bolt, as if nothing had ever happened.