Not trying to be a jerk but are we supposed to be impressed?? Most stock carbines will shoot that good. Chances are something is wrong. I doubt it's the barrel.

 

You should read my last sentence in the first paragraph. Was never my intent to impress anyone.

I have 3 stock 10/22's including this one when it was stock that I have been shooting. None have ever come close to this type of accuracy on a regular basis. They are all 3/4" - 1" guns all day. Some stock carbines may shoot this well but based on my experience I don't think most will.

What do you think I need to do to get ten 1/2" groups? Do you have a 10/22 that will do it day in and day out? If so what is your set up?

 

both my SS kidd barrels that shoot well, are 'bedded' with bicycle innertube close to the receiver and floated ahead of that. the 20" shoots 1/4" groups @50y and the 16.5" best has been sub 1/5" @ 50y. i would not fully float one back to the v block. they just dont need it.

 

Volq Accuracy Test

KOD, I have the same barrel in 18 inch, in a Volq. stock, and yes, it groups better than what you show. I use a CPC bolt/trigger work, Kidd springs/handle, glassed as per recommendation on this site, changed to a 1/4 x 20 take down screw ( works much better for stability in my rifles--recommended per members on this site), and in a Ruger receiver. You must have a quality scope that tracts well for minute groups, and something is not balanced in your setup, as your hand lapped barrel is capable of good grouping if you do your part. I now have the two stage Kidd triggers in my guns, and do not look back. The barrel is not the only part of the rifle setup that makes the small grouping, it is the overall balance setup of rifle to complete the quest; however, the barrel is a large part of accuracy, as well as the one pulling the trigger. Do a search on this site for hours of rimfire accuracy, and the correct way to bed your barrel. Each rifle seems to have a mind of it's own in the placement of the pad. I am glad that Clem likes the pristine accuracy of the Kidd barrel. Yehaw -- I wish mine would do the 1/5 inch or better at 50 yds, or perhaps my old age is a factor! I know Chaser states they are lasers---I have several kinds of barrels; however, no Kidd as of yet--Gotta get Fred's as well to compare. My best accuracy comes from a solid wood stock. Your quest will never end on these 10/22's. An addiction for sure; however, a lot of fun!! Good lucki

 

. I am glad that Clem likes the pristine accuracy of the Kidd barrel. Yehaw -- I wish mine would do the 1/5 inch or better at 50 yds, or perhaps my old age is a factor! i

Kidd is only batting about .500 for me. The 2 that I still have are lasers, but the other 2 are long gone. One of them kidd warrantied because it was shooting 3" groups at 50y. kidd, volquartsen and clark all use lothar blanks. i know my 21" clark shot like a mirror of my 20" kidd. but you get into individual barrels and they have their own preferences. but the lothar blanks should all be pretty similar in what works for bedding.

 

A stock carbine will NOT shoot that well at 55 yards! Gun seems like it's working pretty well.

I also use the Archangel stocks. They are a bit on the heavy side, but I like them. The mags tended to hang up, so I had to file out the mag wells, but the stocks are the same color all the way through, so you can't really tell once it's smoothed out a little.

The Archangel stocks also come with a barrel tensioner that screws in from the bottom, if you decide to use it. You can put it in two different spots. I have found that it does indeed help with accuracy. But, the stock is somewhat flexible on the fore end, so I'd recommend re-checking it every once in a while.

 

what's up with this scope base...doesn't look like my Volquartsen cantilever bases, it looks very blocky in comparison to the ones I'm used to seeing

 

Good feedback guys, much appreciated. I will reply to each person in this one post

@ GH41, still looking for your set up or equipment list.

@ Clem-E, the B&C stock has factory bedding that appears to support the first 2" of barrel after the V-block. So I believe it is similar to your rubber tube "unless the rubber material is having an effect I'm not getting with the composite material". As mentioned the B&C is making contact with the barrel on one side near the end of the forearm. The Archangel doesn't have the 2" support after the V-block and it isn't touching anywhere. First thing I'm going to try is relieve the contact spot on the B&C.

@ bullseye4845, you mention a couple of things I want to get. One is the KIDD barrel, probably go with the 20" polished SS version. I also want to send my Ruger Anniversary bolt to CPC for work. I have had several failure to fire and some failure to eject from my JWH Custom Competitor Gen 2 bolt. Not sure what's up with that but I never had that problem with any of my Ruger factory bolts.

@ n2omike, I haven't used the barrel tensioner. What location do you find it works best?

@ crackedcornish, I don't know what is up with the base; it come with the barrel. Maybe it's an earlier version. I won the barrel and the mount on GB for $180 shipped from an estate sale. LOL, I don't know what else to say about it.

@ Four52 shooter, we have the same experience with stock 10/22's. Plus I always show at least five 5-shot groups and that's only if I'm short on ammo and want to use the ammo in another gun. Otherwise I shoot ten 5-shot groups, the entire 50 round box gets shot. I think it's funny when someone post a single 5 shot group and say "hey look at me". I always ask, "what did you do, shoot 1 group and go home"?

Anyway, thanks again for the feedback. Keep it coming as someone may say something I hadn't thought of yet, such as n2omike mentioning the Archangel barrel tensioner.

I'm also not ruling out my lack of skill in shooting with this trigger. I haven't shot my 10/22's in a long time and the trigger is nothing like anything else I have.

 

Good feedback guys, much appreciated. I will reply to each person in this one post

@ n2omike, I haven't used the barrel tensioner. What location do you find it works best?

I would start with the position closest to the receiver. You don't need a whole lot of tension... maybe 1/4 turn once it contacts the barrel. Of course you can try different amounts in both positions if you want to really wring it out. I haven't gotten that scientific yet. Different tensions will change the point of impact. If you try this at the range, you may also want to do a 'control' on the same day at the range... which would involve shooting a few groups free floated. That would give you a direct comparison to the amount and position of the tensioner.

Good Luck!

 

Volquartsen Accuracy Test

Hey Clem, had to mention the Kidd barrel accuracy, even if you are 50% successful, in 4 purchases. That 16 inch barrel is accurate enough for shooting cards with the big guys--if you are good at wind reading. The Lothar steel is very good steel, and Clark, Volq., and Kidd use the same button rifled cut of barrel bore, and the Kidd and Volq. barrels are hand lapped as well. My Clark is not hand lapped; however, shoots well. KOD-- I can tell you after 14 years of daily opening this site for info, that the best bank for the money---bar none-- send your rifle to Randy at CPC, and it will be the best approx $200 bucks you will spend on a 10/22. It will run correctly, shoot well, and you will not have to wonder what to build for a 10/22, and save you a lot of money. Then again, if like the rest of us, the quest is a never ending sensation of building a "one hole" shooting rifle. Utilize the "search" availability on this site for a ton of info, as some of these gents are amazing in their ability from stock work, trigger work, appearance, etc. I rate some as well or better than many so-called, gunsmiths in the 10/22 work. Your results will be in your own ability, and the amount of time you will pursue in the rimfire accuracy quest. Watch the pocket book as well!! Good luck

 

Hey Clem, had to mention the Kidd barrel accuracy, even if you are 50% successful, in 4 purchases. That 16 inch barrel is accurate enough for shooting cards with the big guys--if you are good at wind reading. The Lothar steel is very good steel, and Clark, Volq., and Kidd use the same button rifled cut of barrel bore, and the Kidd and Volq. barrels are hand lapped as well. My Clark is not hand lapped; however, shoots well. KOD-- I can tell you after 14 years of daily opening this site for info, that the best bank for the money---bar none-- send your rifle to Randy at CPC, and it will be the best approx $200 bucks you will spend on a 10/22. It will run correctly, shoot well, and you will not have to wonder what to build for a 10/22, and save you a lot of money. Then again, if like the rest of us, the quest is a never ending sensation of building a "one hole" shooting rifle. Utilize the "search" availability on this site for a ton of info, as some of these gents are amazing in their ability from stock work, trigger work, appearance, etc. I rate some as well or better than many so-called, gunsmiths in the 10/22 work. Your results will be in your own ability, and the amount of time you will pursue in the rimfire accuracy quest. Watch the pocket book as well!! Good luck

I am 99% sure I will send my factory Ruger bolt to CPC.

I'm still debating who to send my BX trigger group to? Recommendations anyone?

I would like to get the Ruger anniversary receiver squared, polished and cleaning hole drilled but I don't want the barrel messed with. I don't know how that would work out at CPC. I guess I need to just call and talk about it.

 

Send that BX to Brimstone.

 

KOD, sending the entire rifle to CPC is the way to go. He will rework the bolt, trigger,crown, hand lap (important step), and use his own chamber reamer for the barrel, cut the cleaning hole in rear of receiver, new buffer, and will send the rifle back ready to go. I assume this is the Ruger 10/22, basic. In regards to the Odyssey stock, you already know a problem with pressure more on one side. Take a 3/4 dowel with course sand paper, and ream until free floating of barrel, and no touching on sides. Like Clem suggested, place a piece of rubber intertube as he has shown in photo. Take the left hand and place at stock/barrel end, and right hand on total rear of receiver,and press up and down, to see if properly seated, and if there is movement, you will have to bring up the rear ledge with glass to have no movement. You can't having the barrel moving up and down for accuracy. Do not over tighten the take down screw (1/4 x 20 is best). Shoot the rifle for group, and if not better, replace the rubber pad about 2 to 2&1/2 inches in front of the take down screws, as this is a good spot in my rifles. Shoot again for groups. I use Devcon glass for the pads in my rifles. I prefer to glass my rifles; however, this is an area where there are many ways to accomplish the task---use search!! You should not need a better barrel than the Volq. to shoot 1/2 inch groups. The Kidd and Volq. barrels are of same steel, same run out. The difference is the chamber, and correct crown, cut at proper place in the blank. These blanks are in longer lengths I would assume, and who cuts the blank at tightest place for the crown, and who cuts and finishes the chamber best, will have best grouping barrel. These two company's are two of the best, and the barrels should both group very well. Here again, being a newbie, welcome to RFC, and there is a world of info, as these guys are good at helping, and remember no question is too dumb, and everyone of these guys had to begin at one point, and with experience, grew in their knowledge. No one knows everything about anything!! Many on here use the Archangel stock as well, and could help out. The planting of a receiver/barrel into a stock is much the same-- no undue pressure points, and placed into a very solid position. Your Volq barrel will please you if you perform the proper balance in total rifle build. Here's hoping you find that sweet spot in a hurry!!

 

@ Flash_80, that had crossed my mind. I do have a BX trigger and although it is kinda light at 2lb 11oz pull it has quite a bit of creep in it.

@ bullseye4845, I appreciate your help and suggestions. My issue with sending the barrel to CPC is the fact that it is a Volquartsen barrel. It shouldn't need hand lapping by someone, it shouldn't need to be recrowned, also it has a fixed comp on the end. It shouldn't need a new chamber cut. That's my main issue with sending the entire rifle back. I plan on calling CPC tomorrow to see what they offer and recommend.

Trigger wise, according to the claims, Brimstone should be able to give me a better BX trigger than CPC so I'll probably go that route, again, depending on what CPC tells me they can do.

Stocks, the Odyssey stock doesn't have any support past the first 1" after the V-block until the last 1" of stock. The stock in between those two points is basically hollow and would have to be filled with something to provide a contact point with the barrel. I think it would be difficult to provide a consistent pressure point with the stocks design. The contact point at the end of the stock has been removed. Shortly I will be testing the gun again.

I had planned on using the Archangel from the start and then saw the used Odyssey for $170 shipped.

Afterthought, I might get the Raven Eye Custom Flanged Bedding Pillar for the Odyssey. Also, I'm not familiar with the size/dimensions of the factory takedown bolt, what is the significant difference in it and the 1/4x20 bolt? And why is it better. Not playing devil's advocate here, I really don't know and want to learn.

 

@ bullseye4845, I appreciate your help and suggestions. My issue with sending the barrel to CPC is the fact that it is a Volquartsen barrel. It shouldn't need hand lapping by someone, it shouldn't need to be recrowned, also it has a fixed comp on the end. It shouldn't need a new chamber cut. That's my main issue with sending the entire rifle back. I plan on calling CPC tomorrow to see what they offer and recommend.

Cannot go wrong with CPC. They will take the barrel, and take over where VQ left off. I don't think VQ laps the barrel... and a CPC recrown and rechamber is a very good thing. CPC will also square the barrel to the receiver and to the bolt. It's this kind of blueprinting that makes a CPC gun excel. With 10/22's people do a bunch of parts changing and think they are 'gunsmithing'. It's pretty cool to be able to easily change parts, but you're fooling yourself if you actually believe you're gunsmithing. Randy at CPC takes these guns/barrels and truly brings them to the next level.

For people who want a super nice, accurate rifle... I recommend they send CPC a NICE aftermarket barrel like what you have along with their rifle. Once Randy does his magic on everything, you'll have something special.

Good Luck!

 

That whole "stock barrel can do that good" thing had me thinking, so I dug a couple 10-22's of the safe today just to see what they would do at 50yds. NOT stock barreled guns either. A 22" WM Special with the barrel recrowned/rechambered by Nemo about 10yrs ago, and another with a GM 18" bull. Both guns have pillars and receiver bedding. WM special a factory trigger I worked to about 2.75lbs, and the other has a Kidd single stage.

An all factory 10-22 isn't putting up the groups that KOD's gun did. I had a few pretty good groups, and a few not so great ones as well. But this is how I shot today, so in reality, this is probably about how me behind these two guns would probably shoot consistently. CCI SV, SK Std Plus, and Eley Club Orange. Again, SK Std Plus has always shot the best for me, though I don't ever really shoot anything higher than $8/box ammo either. I ran a boresnake through each beforehand, and only shot 5rds to foul, so maybe the CCI got the raw end of it, as it went first each time. My GM barreled gun had every advantage. 1.5lbs Kidd trigger and a 5-20 Grand Slam vs the homejob trigger and 3-12 GS on the superstock. And I think the superstock outshot it.

 

Volquartsen Accuracy Test

Hey KOD, I am sorry in that I understood that the Ruger 10/22, had the original barrel, and no, you do not need to do anything to the Volq. barrel.
I also purchased the WM, 22 inch, stainless, 10/22 when they came out, and after recrowning mine, it surprised me in the accuracy with SK Plus. No winner's circle groups; however, good enough for squirrels.
I did some Googling today on the Odyssey stock, and most posts that I saw had problems with fitting, and had a lot of work to fit receiver to stock; however, after getting correct, and the take down holes to match with the receiver, it seemed a good stock, and many had to use pillars to get holes to work for take down screw. My Volq. match, barrel is lapped( and was purchased several years ago) as is KIdd's. The price you pay for a Volq. barrel should be lapped, and the Kidd barrel is less expensive, and just as accurate, and if they shoot 0.1 inch at 50, I gotta get one. When you establish a 10/22 that shoots 0.1 inch at 50, don't touch that torque screw again. That type of accuracy is sought per the pro's, and if you can read the wind, and have a good finger pull, you can compete. Our main problem with shooting small groups with good rifles, is the quality of ammo. There are is too much variations in velocity, and the big boys buy cases of Eley, from the same machine, same lot#, that made the ammo that shoots best in their competition rifles. I can't afford that kind of ammo, and I stop at SK Plus in everyday shooting. N2omike said it best---you have to "blueprint" that piece to get maximum accuracy. CPC does great trigger work as well, and I have never seen a negative remark on his in 14 years on this site. Look at his internet site for all his info.

 

I had that same barrel except mine was fluted.. I stress HAD. At the time I had only one (1) KIDD barrel to compare the VQ to.. the VQ lost consistently, VQ went down the road .. since then I have added a herd of KIDD's.. My VQ shot tighter groups without the brake/comp. on.. while it was acceptable to many I found the KIDD better with a variety of ammo's. Good luck and keep at it! A better trigger may be the key...

 

Big day

Today was a big day shooting wise. I can account for 1,150 rounds shot from three rifles. Approximately 525 went through the Volquartsen barrel. I will post all the group photos later on. Here is what I have found out. The Odyssey stock is the problem. I started out with the Odyssey stock and shot 50 rounds of CCI SV and Aguila SV. The groups didn't look that good and I didn't want to "waste" expensive ammo on the uncertainty of the stock. So I starting using the Archangel stock and used it throughout the test. Later on I will post photos of every group shot and add a little commentary.

 

Just to touch on a few things first. The comp on my barrel is not removable. I know some have suggested having the barrel recrowned, not sure how that would be done. Or if it's even needed.

I have included two photos showing the barrel channel on the Odyssey stock. I would have two contact points to play with as you can see. Also, the two bolts that hold the V-block on is touching the stock. I wonder if this is having a negative effect on accuracy? Also, I wouldn't remove the first inch of bedding surface. The barrel rest on that surface. The stock takedown screw hole is rather large and slightly oval. I believe the stock would benefit from the Raven Eye Custom Flanged Bedding Pillar. Has anyone tried this? Also, what is the advantage of using the 1/4 x 20 bolt for the takedown bolt? That was never explained to me.

I believe a better trigger would help with accuracy. Mine has a lot of creep and feels kinda spongy if you can imagine what I'm talking about. I want something with the fastest lock time, no creep, a solid wall and clean break. Someone has to have the answer.

Here is the range conditions when I started. Slightly windy.

Let's get on with it. Here is the rifle as shot today.

Groups will start from best to worse with commentary. Goal is to shoot ten 1/2" groups. Spoiler alert, it didn't happen today.

SK Pistol Match. This ammo shoots pretty good in all my guns. If it hadn't been for one shot on groups 6, 8 and 9 I could have went 10 for 10 with this ammo.

Next is Wolf Match Target, made by Eley. This could have went 9 or 10 for 10 but ended up with 7. I make note most of the time when I have an AD or just pull off. Not sure what happened on the 9th group, can't remember.

Next, Lapua Pistol King. This stuff shoot good in about every thing I have tried it in. I have been getting mine at Brownells for $8 per box. Again went 7 of 10.

Next, CCI SV. Ole standby ammo. I got lucky on buying 3 cases with the same lot number of this stuff. Shoots pretty good in everything. I can get close to going 10 for 10 at 3/8" with my 1710 XLR and 1813, easy 1/2". Bought 15,000 rounds for $600 delivered, works out to $2 a box.

Next, Wolf Match Extra. Didn't do as well as Match Target but was close and cost more. Again, made by Eley.

SK Std Plus, huge disappointment. I bought two bricks of this stuff and it isn't shooting well in any gun I have tried it in. Last time I buy this for awhile. Some older lot numbers I had shot good.

Lapua Center-X. Biggest disappointment of all. In all fairness this was the last ammo I shot and I didn't clean the gun from start to finish. I may retest.

I also shot over 400 rounds through my new Tikka T1x. Go over to the Tikka forum to see those groups if interested. Hope you all enjoyed seeing the targets. Feedback or comments are welcome.

 

The ammo you are using is great to fantastic quality and should be grouping better than that... several factors/variables.. the only one I see is wind... the others are you, your optic (which should be ample and then some), your bad trigger, bench and/or the rest (which from my view looks decent).

Trigger = anything KIDD.. take your pick.. it is what you seek...Nun Beda...https://www.coolguyguns.com/TRIGGERS_c_7.html

Take out the above variables 1 by one/make those better and it leaves your barrel... I do pillar most but not all of my best shooters.
Everyone is different.. I get that... at 50 yds. with my KIDD's and the ammo you just shot they will be consistently half the group size of what you picture.. I would be disappointed as well. Willy Nilly groups to me spell barrel issue.. IF you are a confident/disciplined shooter.
Many other variables (torque and pressure) can be listed but if the rifle is set-up correctly they go away.

 

Volquartsen Accuracy Test

KOD, can you group without the muzzle devise attached, after correcting the receiver/stock fitting? I hope the take down screw, and escutcheon holes are in line.

 

KOD, can you group without the muzzle devise attached, after correcting the receiver/stock fitting? I hope the take down screw, and escutcheon holes are in line.

His is not a detachable muzzlebrake, which is a pain to clean post shooting.

 

I'm no match shooter, in fact I rarely shoot groups on paper, except when dialing in a new scope

but my Volquartsen THM's do group pretty well, like these 10rnds@50yds groups
Eley Sport

SKS Standard Plus

so I'm going with the bad barrel idea

 

Send the entire gun WITH the VQ barrel to CPC for their full tune-up.
Just do it.
If you want him to remove the PITA blingy compensator on the front, he can do that as well.
Good Luck!

 

:bthumb:

 

Volquartsen Accuracy Test

Sending the Ruger bolt to Randy at CPC, will remove a lot of the flyers. His bolt work is great, as I have several, and they always work. I remember years ago Randy helped a group of young people shooting in events, and were having trouble with flyers in their grouping. The work Randy did on the bolt removed the flyers, and the kids starting having much better scores. There was also a contest of bolt work done several years ago, and CPC came out the winner. I do not remember all that was in the competition. The work on rear of bolt, pinned firing pin, correct head space all contribute to the success, and the finishing design on side of bolt looks great as well. He can do any part of rifle you want. Check him out per his site.

 

You're on the right track with pillar bedding.
Just gonna give an opinion here.

After you pillar it, you should skim bed it with devcon or acraglass. Not jb weld.

I think your torque spec is wrong. None of my guns are 20 inch lb's. Some of them are 50 - 65 though. Don't take this the wrong way. It's a barrelled action, not a scope.

That barrelled action has to be tight. Once it's tight, shoot it , and give it a day or two to settle in.

If that is a bone stock 1022 receiver, the firing pin needs to be staked/pinned, whatever you wanna call it, and it needs to be blue printed.
I wouldn't do anything to the barrel. The last volquartsen I had was a hammer.
It was full blown Volquartsen though. Steel receiver.

That's a real nice scope by the way. Looks like a Vortex razor to me. What rings are those? Are they lapped? I'm from the old school where rings need to be lapped, unless you're using spuhr. Kelblys, or Arc's. And throw some rosin on your tube for good measure.

Randy at CPC is your best bet for the blueprint. He may well recommend a setback and chamber. I have never seen a Volquartsen with a bad crown, or chamber. But, If Randy studies it and says so , then go ahead and do it.

T.S.

 

The least I will do is have CPC rework my Ruger 50th Anniversary bolt and maybe have someone fix my stock BX trigger. All my groups have been shot with the JHW bolt. So far I have not been impressed with that bolt because I have had several misfires on all ammo brands. I never had an issue with the factory bolt.

I have been busy all day and didn't get a chance to call CPC. I'll discuss the issues at hand and see what he recommends.

What is skim bedding? I have an idea but what is it? Honestly it doesn't look like the 10/22 has much to bed at all except where the receiver bolt is. Plus it's a composite stock so I wouldn't suspect any movement after pillar bedding is complete. At that point I wouldn't mind going higher on the takedown bolt torque.

The scope is a Vortex Razor Gen II 3-18x50. I like Vortex products, I have 4 of their scopes and 3 red dots. The rings are UTG Pro, they don't need lapping.

Thanks to all, for all the suggestions/recommendations.

 

It's what you think it is.
You want the barreled action torqued fairly equally.
Think about this.

Why would we want perfect concentric mating of barrel to receiver. And then after a proper bedding job , where everything is leveled off and square, fitted for repeatability,,,,,,,,,,,,and then turn right around and and screw it all up by fumbling around with torque values on takedowns? They do it all the time. Doesn't mean you have to do it.

Makes no sense to me. But you guys might know something I dont. I certainly won't rule that out. I done been outsmarted once around these here parts. Not going to happen again.

I didn't even know that Ruger had a 50th Anniversary bolt for a 1022. It's a new game now. Even tho it's a 50th anniversary bolt, it's same factory 1022 bolt as all the rest of them, the words 50th anniversary doesn't make it a better bolt than the previous other thousands of factory bolts. Or at least not that I am aware of. And it's not a 50th Anniversary anything anymore because you modified it.

Right now it's just a Ruger 1022 with a Volquartsen barrel and a factory aluminum receiver.

Your Leapers UTG rings need to be lapped. Contrary to what you replied. Unless you did that already. If you don't believe me, you can always check it with the proper steel bar.

Why would we go to the trouble of releaving stress on a barreled action, blueprinting that barreled action..............bedding that barelled action properly.....and then turn right around and stress a 2000.00 scope in its ring set?
I will let the experts answer that because I am merely making suggestions and asking questions.

So anyway, it's your gun. Do what you want with it sir.
I'm on my days off and I just had my second celebratory drink.
Yous an alright guy with me. Be well bro.

T.S - After a few drinks I'll drink to anything......AND SCREAM AT PEOPLE!

 

Here was the bedding job I did several years ago on a Yukon Extreme stock. Pillar just nearly flush with the wood, thin layer for the receiver, and a base just ahead of the V-block. I screwed that up, and this pic was the first go round. I hogged it out with a dremel, made that a bit longer, and let it get down into the vent holes in the stock to strengthen it. I tried going around those holes the first time, and it was flimsy and sucked.

 

Your pillar is what I envision mine to look like with the Raven Eye product.

 

[/QUOTE]

Perfect example of what skim bedding , could have been.
But sadly, it was not to be.

I will let DrGunner take this one.

T.S. - There are only two sides to every coin. But, only one side lands, face up.

 

Perfect example of what skim bedding , could have been.
But sadly, it was not to be.

I will let DrGunner take this one.

T.S. - There are only two sides to every coin. But, only one side lands, face up.[/QUOTE]

I don't know what the the hell "skim bedding" is. And you haven't exactly told us particularly what you mean with that term so far either. This was bedded in the manner that I intended it though. And it worked. And if I bedded a 10-22, I would imagine that I got all of the information from folks on this forum. A good 10yrs ago or more.

 

These are .22's... not high powered centerfires. If the scope and mounts are torqued properly, and the scope isn't getting damaged during install, it's fine. It's not going anywhere.