See your manual, page 13, Bolt; page 14, T1X steps 1 thru 4, page 18, Periodic Maintenance steps 1 thru 11, paying special attention to step 5.

I know. Who looks at the book? I nerd out on maintenance. I used aeroshell grease at the aforementioned special attention step 5. Any good quality grease will do.

I found this to greatly improve the smoothness of the bolt throw.
Good luck

 

I know. It's against all man law to read the manual. I glanced over the manual but only paid close attention the trigger adjustment. Thanks man!

 

:bthumb:

 

There a manual !!

 

The thickest manual I’ve ever seen

 

It’s pretty deceptive. It is written in about 8 languages. The English section is not that thick.

 

You might want to take the bolt apart to see if there is any foreign material present, or evidence of binding. I think that the information in the manual is less than helpful...OK, almost useless. It isn't that hard to do if you are careful. This is what I do: https://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1151827&highlight=bolt

 

I bought a new sako quad a few years ago that had the same problem.
I tried everything but nothing helped so I sent it back and they gave me another one.
The second one was great.

 

My Sako Quad was very, very stiff when I first bought it new. I put grease on the cam and just cycled it over and over hundreds of times. It is now still a little stiff, but nothing like it was when I first got it.

 

Opening the bolt after the shot cocks the firing pin/spring, that takes some effort.

I know you all knew that.

 

I'm looking at my T1X bolt alongside the manual but still cannot be exactly sure where each of these surfaces are to grease:

5. Disassemble the bolt as instructed in the manual, clean the dirt with solvent-wetted brush and lightly lubricate surfaces with protective oil. Lightly grease the locking lug surfaces (A, fig. 4), cocking cam (B) and head of the cocking piece (C).​

​

Can anyone point them out for me?

is it too much to expect it to look exactly like the diagram?

 

Unlike centerfire rifles that have locking lugs integrated into the bolt, typically on the front of the bolt that lock into the receiver, your bolt handle as on other rimfires provides the lock-up for the action. Look at the surfaces that contact the receiver when you close the bolt on the rear of the bolt handle. The major lock up is at the root of the bolt -- you can see the flat area that contacts the receiver when you close the bolt. Put a good quality grease on that flat. I'm not looking at my bolt right now, so going by recollection -- two small projections on the other side of the bolt handle that also serve as lock-up surfaces -- some grease on them also. I'm guessing there are others, but the only rimfires that have integral bolt lugs are the Remington 540 and 580 series rifles. And if your bolt is closing with difficulty, you may have inadequate head-space. If that is not the case, you may just have a very stiff action (not unusual) and need to break in the rifle with additional shooting. Or just keep working the bolt through its full range of motion while sitting in your chair watching TV. And keep it lubed.

Doug

 

The T1x bolt has a 45 degree bolt movement versus the more common 60 degree,or more, of most bolt action rlmfires. It compressing the firing pin spring over a shorter distance which results in a heavier bolt opening resistance than normal.
A little properly applied lube does help.

drover

 

Here is how I do it- others may have an easier way. Grasp the bolt body tightly and rotate the bolt handle down. That will expose the sloped area opposite the bolt handle and give you access to the pointed part of the bolt that is pointing down in your photo- the parts that rub together when the bolt is cocked. Use a clean cloth to wipe the mating surfaces to remove any old lube or crud, then use a toothpick or small probe to spread a very small dab of grease on the pointed part and the sloped part. You don't need much. Grasp the body of the bolt and the handle and rotate the handle to recock the bolt a couple of times. This might take a little bit of force if the bolt is very new. Leave the bolt in the cocked position so that the bolt can be reinserted. As Doug noted above, put a small dab of grease on the bolt locking surfaces of the bolt and the action that the bolt mates to. Done.

 

Thanks all, these are the bits I think I need to grease:

or is it just the tip (or front edge) that cocking head (C in Tikka's diagram).

 

I use a small tube of Lubriplate and put a small drop on the areas the manual shows, then I worked the bolt about 100 times and my bolt is silky smooth,,
JMHO

 

1. The tip and, in this picture, the left side...the 45 degree part that will slide along the part below it that you marked. Not the bottom that you marked.
2. Looking at bolt handle- not the bottom of the part you marked, but what would be the top in the picture...just below the black plastic part. If you put the bolt in the rifle and close it, you will see that the part closed to the black plastic part rubs against the action as the bolt is closed/cocked. It will not hurt anything to grease the bottom but it really doesn't experience much friction/wear as the bolt slides into battery.

 

I use Neco Moly Slide grease on the shank of the bolt where the bolt handle operates and on the areas shown in the photos, much better than anything I have tired and I tried several, this along with use will get it as slick and easy as its going to get.

 

Moly Slide works well, but be careful with it. Almost permanent stains on many things.

Doug

 

This is true but it works great in this particular situation......I tried the red synthetic grease from Shooters Choice and you could feel it galling as you operated the bolt, I promptly took the bolt back apart and lubed it again with the Moly Slide, big difference, good stuff.

 

I put a mix of Honda Lube (60% moly grease) and Remoil on such sliding parts that start out life unfriendly with each other. They slick up and become easier to work.

 

I've used Naptha on q-tips to degrease all the oil in the action, chamber, bolt ride area.

From the manual, pg 7.:

​

Clean extra oil from the bolt, chamber and breech area in the action.​

​

Now this whole area is dry to the touch (wasn't before would leave oil on finger):

Should I re-lubricate this with the Interflon dry oil (aerosol) or is it enough just to lubricate the bolt body?

Edit: also woops I thought I was posting in my own thread about this but accidentally took over this thread.

 

I would run some sort of lube between sliding surfaces; no matter where it is applied. I look for wear points and make sure to put it there. OTOH, I do not own a Tikka T1X and it looks like it has some sort of coating on the metal. I deal with old school stuff, not modern coatings generally.

 

Definitely slicker than eel slime!

Doug

 

Clean your bolt of all oily stuff. Paint it with a Sharpie and operate bolt in action for 50-60 cycles. High/rough spots will be evident. Denatured alcohol will remove Sharpie ink.