Would love to see a pic of where is marks the receiver at.

 

yes, me too

 

That's not bad looking, and it'll be hidden (under the woodline) even if you later decide to remove the Spike. It's looks like a good alternative to having to modify your receiver for another manufacturer's solution to the same problem.

 

Would the Spike with with aftermarket receivers too? I have a Feddersen Aluminum receiver.

 

I think it would.

I have a Fed receiver too, and HAD a Titan stock once and they fit fine.

 

Titan Spike

Just received the Spike today (quick delivery I must say) and just installed in the Titan stock quick and easy on a Volquartsen Summit receiver. I don't care about a mark I can't see and no one else can either.

 

Just received the Spike today (quick delivery I must say) and just installed in the Titan stock quick and easy on a Volquartsen Summit receiver. I don't care about a mark I can't see and no one else can either.

How well does it fit? Where does it mark?

 

Can you not see the photo posted by Mr. Victor himself?

 

i was referring to the Volquartsen Summit, not a 10/22 as shown.

 

So you are not worried about stress fractures/cracking originating out of the gouge the Spike puts in the back of the receiver? That is pretty close edge distance to the bottom.

 

In the year of shooting/testing we haven't had any issues.

 

I wouldn't think that it would hurt a thing, even if the receiver did crack in that location. It's not like that's a high-stress area, subject to hammering from the bolt or anything. If I had one and the receiver cracked there, I think I'd reinforce it with some JB Weld and continue shooting.

 

How about some OD green stocks already!😜

 

This is the info I was looking for when I came here and searched! Well done Michael!

 

We've been getting great feedback on the Spikes. Solid accuracy increases.

If you don't have a Kidd or other way to lock down the back of the action, it's best to use a Titan Spike to hold it down.

It's super easy to install in a Titan, only takes a couple minutes.

 

We've been getting great feedback on the Spikes. Solid accuracy increases.

If you don't have a Kidd or other way to lock down the back of the action, it's best to use a Titan Spike to hold it down.

It's super easy to install in a Titan, only takes a couple minutes.

Looks a lot easier than the rear hold that I made that indexes with the cleaning hole on my raptor stocks.

 

Are you shipping to Australia?

 

We have a Australian dealer, though they do not have the Spikes yet so you can order from our website if you want one now. (yes we ship direct)

https://www.australiantacticalprecision.com.au/collections/all/victor-company

Thanks!

 

The Spike should be offered with a nylon or polymer tip to avoid marking the receiver, for those who don't like the damage caused by it.

 

That would defeat the purpose. A soft tip would deform and be loose.

 

I read, the pressure on the rear of the action shouldn't be over 8-10 inch-pounds so that shouldn't be a problem for a nylon tip.
Actually, a brass tip would probably be even better since it's softer than aluminum but stronger than nylon.

 

This is not going to have any negative effect on any type of 10/22 receiver. It's a tiny little divot in the very back of the receiver. Drilling a cleaning hole in the back has never had any negative effect that I can think of, so why would this?

 

I don't think it will be a problem. The cleaning rod hole is in the middle of the wall. This is on the edge of a casting with a point so it could be a problem with excess torque.

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Won’t it go blunt after a number of tear downs for cleaning.

 

Won't it go blunt after a number of tear downs for cleaning.

I was kinda thinking along these lines.

I don't care that there is a divot in the receiver per se. But what would happen over time is that every time you take apart, to achieve the same tension upon reassembly, you are going to need to screw the spike in a hair farther.

Over time, the divot is going to get bigger and bigger until it potentially becomes detrimental.

Now, I think that is solid logic. The question is how many cycles would that take? 50 or 5000?

 

Hello, would the spike fit into a pmaca chassis that has the rear tang space cut out for the kidd rear tang?


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Hello, would the spike fit into a pmaca chassis that has the rear tang space cut out for the kidd rear tang?

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I doubt it. It's made for the Titan stock, I don't think it would fit into other stocks.

 

ah ok. thanks michael.

 

Really like your new stock; super nice! Just have one question, what is the length off pull? The Lord blessed me with short arms and if the pull is not adjustable, is there enough for me to cut off? Thanks much and good luck with your new stock!.........................

 

The LOP is 13.9" for most triggers. To shorten it you would need to cut a section off and glue the buttstock back in. It's been done, but I can't say how easy it is.

 

Would love to see a pic of where is marks the receiver at.

Good request- here is a pic of a Tac Sol X-Ring Receiver with a Spike mark...

Mr. Victor I really like the idea of the spike but i have ask if in your testing if you guys machined out a ledge where the spike made contact to the receiver? Something simple like just and dimple that would mate up with the spike for a cleaner look and more uniform contact? Simple enough that many of us could simply do with a small drill bit and chamfer a dimple made from light drilling?

 

Mr. Victor I really like the idea of the spike but i have ask if in your testing if you guys machined out a ledge where the spike made contact to the receiver? Something simple like just and dimple that would mate up with the spike for a cleaner look and more uniform contact? Simple enough that many of us could simply do with a small drill bit and chamfer a dimple made from light drilling?

Hi Downman74,

I'm not sure exactly what you are asking? I wouldn't suggest adding a ledge to the receiver if that's what you mean. The Spike's tip will simply find where it wants to make contact and hold there.

Lmk

MV

 

That does seem like a reasonable request but one must consider how many, how should I say, non-handy people are buying these. I can see the jig sliding into pilot hole with Bubba using his hand drill flopping all around. Then he's pissed because "why did you make me do that" For those of us that have done a lot of mods such as drilling, grinding, cutting or such should be able to make a small self quite easy. Dremel is your friend but only with a steady hand.

 

Wish I'd been paying attention to this site more often lately, been shooting big guns lately-this is genius and I have ordered one today!!!!!!

 

I'm assuming I should back off the little set screw at the rear of the trigger assembly before installing this???

 

Did some more reading and see that I need to remove the set screw and back stop-no sweat!!!!!

 

Could just resharpen it when needed or just buy a KIDD receiver?

 

Hi everyone,

I've been running a Kidd bull and FTG in a Titan for a while, getting MOA groups, and after finding out - with some delay - about the spike anchor, I decided to get it and install it, to see if I can further improve the accuracy of my 10/22.

Mind you I started out with a clean Titan install - barrel perfectly centered - but, as I take the spike that final 1/2 turn I can see the barrel shifting to the left, to where it is almost in contact with the stock - it looks awful.

Because of the struggle the barreled receiver has been in and out of the stock several times, and the spike hits the back of the receiver in the same spot every time, with the spot, at least to the naked eye, perfectly centered on the receiver - widthwise.

I'm following instructions to the letter, btw. - how can this be defeated?..

TIA!

 

Not an expert on the spike but do own a Titan.

My guess is that your receiver and the shelf in the stock that the receiver rides on are not true to each other. Under normal (non-spike) conditions, this is not an issue for you. But with the spike, the receiver is being driven into more perfect contact with that shelf and that is causing the shift.

First: See what Victor has to say.

Second: If Victor's fix doesn't work (which seems doubtful, I am sure he's got a solution that WILL work) I'd bed that shelf area in the stock with some JB Weld, essentially making the shelf fit your receiver. But, that's just me, I have an addiction to JB Welding things. I defer to Victor.