Hello (from down in NZ) - this thread is so timely for me. I've been after a 581 for years (about 30 years ago I came across a 541 and was hooked) but they are not common here. However just this week I got lucky and secured a 582. When I enquired of the vendor he had a 581 as well, but no bolt. So I have both coming and as an invertate gun tinkerer I will be rebuilding the 581 to share the bolt. One of our big regional gunshops has a stock of Anschultz take-offs, so if my 581 doesn't shoot in its native form maybe it'll get one of those.

 

AT, I'm glad you found a 582 and parts for a 581 build. The 581 will most likely need headspace adjusted to go with the foreign bolt but that isn't a biggy. There is a lot of great info in the old threads here and will be very helpful for you.

When you say the gunsmith has Anschutz take-offs, do you mean barrels or stocks? Either way I love both. I have converted Anschutz stocks as well as revamped the factory barrels for Remingtons.

 

The Annie parts here are barrels, which are the most difficult parts to source down here, they are about but the options are very constrained.

I have been reading old threads for days, its amazing what people share, and how different ways for achieving a similar result come to light.

I have in mind to relocate the trigger pivot point and draw the barrel pins, regluing the barrel in with bearing retainer as my first steps on the 581.

A trigger question I have - the back screw that is added to adjust sear engagement, is that the only way to get separate sear and trigger springs?

 

Oh - and why ?? My challenge is to see a Remmy 581 added to this list https://www.canadiangunnutz.com/for...895924-My-22-shoots-1-2-quot-groups-at-50-yards-meters-all-day!-Really-Prove-it! - I don't see one annotated and I'm not reading 139 pages to see if anyone's tried . . . but its good company and a 581 (or 582) certainly should be on the "made it" list I reckon

 

I also have 2 Anschutz barrels and keep thinking about rebuilding a 582 and installing one. Problem is my 582 shoots so awsome I hate to tear it apart. Any rifle that shoots really well is hard for me to change from original configuration trigger work and bedding aside. I have one extra 581 and 582 right now and they both with just a little tuning I believe could lay out 5 1/2" groups. On your 581 I would first see how it shoots without pulling the pins, a couple of mine are awsome. I can't remember who it was on here that said to tighten up the headspace that he just pressed the barrel into the receiver a little as the pins will bend.

When it comes to the trigger I have done several things.
1. Deburr and polish parts.
2. Respring
3. Relocate pivot pin
As far as adding a sear engagement screw I have not done it. Reason being I really like the way the trigger engages after the other work and haven't need to. The lightest trigger I had done is about 22oz and that is with relocating pivot pin. These rifles are all for hunting so I usually take the trigger to 2 to 2 1/2lbs. Side note here is when drilling the new pivot point leave your old pin in while doing it and use a carbide bit as the trigger is very hard. Here is a pic of the 22 oz. Trigger. Second pic is of my 581`s and 1 580, awsome rifles.

Top to bottom
1. Factory 582
2. Factory 582
3. 581 Barreled action with Aftermarket Anschutz stock pillered and bedded.
4. 580 with Shilin match select barrel and Savage Anschutz stock pillered and bedded
5. Factory 581
6. 581 with Anschutz 1502 17hm2 barrel and Boyds stock that I inletted and reshaped some. Pillered and bedded
7. 581 with Green Mountain barrel, Kimber Classic stock modded to fit pillered and bedded. This gun weighs right at 5lbs with scope and is crazy accurate, amazing squirrel rifle.

The 580 gives me fits as it will put 4 of 5 rounds in a small cluster and throw 1 rd 3/8" out. The flyer is random high right, left or anywhere else, can't figure it out..

All that said, you can definitely get one on that list.

 

I have loved the 581 since buying my first one in the early eighty's. The first requirement is getting one with barrel choke. That happens about 50% of the time. Next is setting the head space to .043, a must do on these rifles. Then to the trigger, Earnies spring upgrade and hone to 8 ounces , they won't go to 7 ounces. Then hone the safety to get it back in the correct operation. I have never found a need to add the second receiver screw. I instead bed the stock from the tang to 1 1/2" down the barrel channel in front of the receiver.
A problem I see with these rifles is the firing pins have to much vertical movement. They can not be setup for ideal ignition. I have never tackled this problem, yet. I am thinking about making a taller firing pin to take out the vertical movement. Would like to hear from anyone who has played with this.

 

I did another trigger today, moved pivot point.270" as before" changed using same spring and deburred everything. Came in at 22.5 oz average so very consistent when moving pivot point this amount.

 

Thanks grg for the excellent picture on the trigger job. I now have the confidence to tackle my trigger. I have also secured a new bolt for my 581 that was "sharing" with a 582. Its going to take a long time to get it in hand (its in Australia, the paperwork to get it to NZ is horrific).

 

Sold my first year production, walnut stocked 582 to a friend for his Grandson last week, herd needed thinning and I know it got a good home and will see a lot more use now.:bthumb:

 

AT, no problem on the pics. Also I used a #39 drill bit on the trigger housing and a #42 on the trigger. A #41 seemed like the roll pin expanded enough that it hung up the trigger a little.

GMD1950, that sure is a nice looking 582. I let go a nice 581 I built and a beautiful Winchester I refinished to one of my best friends as him and his son needed squirrel rifles. I figure if they are actually going to use them it is a much better place than just sitting most of the time. I have accumulated so many "squirrel rifles" that I could use a different one each time I go out, it is fun seeing others fall in love with these guns. My cousins are now starting to really talk about going squirrel hunting as if it's something they look forward to. One of them is a sniper and he is excited for me to take him out and do some "precision" work. Back to yours I think it's pretty cool for say a 15yr old kid to start hunting with a gun that's already 50 years old, that was a good move.

 

5 mm trigger

AT, no problem on the pics. Also I used a #39 drill bit on the trigger housing and a #42 on the trigger. A #41 seemed like the roll pin expanded enough that it hung up the trigger a little.

GMD1950, that sure is a nice looking 582. I let go a nice 581 I built and a beautiful Winchester I refinished to one of my best friends as him and his son needed squirrel rifles. I figure if they are actually going to use them it is a much better place than just sitting most of the time. I have accumulated so many "squirrel rifles" that I could use a different one each time I go out, it is fun seeing others fall in love with these guns. My cousins are now starting to really talk about going squirrel hunting as if it's something they look forward to. One of them is a sniper and he is excited for me to take him out and do some "precision" work. Back to yours I think it's pretty cool for say a 15yr old kid to start hunting with a gun that's already 50 years old, that was a good move.

I wish to try the pivot change and am wondering what size pin used (3/32"?) and did you use a smaller hole on the trigger. I would thing it would be the other way around.

 

Rdssert, I have to agree with you on the second action screw. Sounds like I bed mine the same way with about 1 1/2" of the barrel bedded, I think this keeps the receiver from being able to tip forward and may help keep the barrel from dropping.

I also have been thinking about what I can do to tune the firing pin, I was hoping someone would put one of their secrets on here.

 

I also have been thinking about what I can do to tyne the firing pin, I was hoping someone would put one of their secrets on here.

I'm not familiar with what you're asking. Can you elaborate?

 

Looks like a typo!

The y is right next to the u, so....."tune"! I have to edit my posts all the time for that stuff. Oh, and I, too, would like to see any firing pin tuning info out there!

 

The y is right next to the u, so....."tune"!

I see....that makes sense.

The biggest concern I have with a firing pin that is essentially exposed is keeping the channel clean to avoid debris that will drag or hinder movement. Once I've done the polishing of sides and edges there's not much else one can do. I've had my three ranging from 12 to 33 years. I've never had spring fatigue become an issue, though I suspect it could easily become one.

 

Yes TUNE. Once again spell check fixed it so that it was unrecognizable.

 

As far as the firing pin, on thus 580 I did take a little of the outer edge of the tip so that the pin hits just inside of the rim edge. It now makes a print like a small square, wish I had a picture. I also put one of my Anschutz barrels on this rifle and the trigger is sitting right at 21oz. I am going to put sear engagement screw in as it has just a tiny bit of creep that I think I can eliminate and maybe get the trigger weight down closer to 16oz. I did have to grind out some of the bedding on the 1 1/2" of barrel bedding I do. Even still this will shoot right in the .2-.3 area consistently with SK Standard +. I do have some ideas on work I want to do with the bolt, if things work out will let you know.

I am getting ready for another 581 build. Just got in a Green Mountain barrel blank that I will contour as an Octogon, never did it before so we will see how it turns out. I'm going to do every trick I have learned on these receivers with a few more ideas as well. I picked up two Timney triggers today and one will go in this. Lastly just found a Savage/Anschutz 141 stock that will take very little work for this barreled action to go into, I love this little stock. Oh yes I am going to make a anew bolt handle, thinking diamond shape with a teardrop knob on end to give it a little more weight. Will rust blue everything when done.

Pic of rifle with new barrel.

 

GRG,
I am digging your builds, like that over size bolt knob. I was going to have Short Action Custom do mine, but they discontinued the service for the 581.

My lone remaining 581, I've posted about before, has been to two smiths. It has
Annie barrel
Timeny trigger
2nd action screw
Factory sporter stock has been pillar bedded, thin pad added, relieved for the Timmney trigger safety, painted OD/black and 2 swivel studs added

Shoots well. Now you got me thinking about a new stock ad a bolt knob again

 

I just got this stock in today, not quite as good of shape as they said but I think with a little bit of love it could be pretty nice. It's a S/A 141 stock that I got off of ebay and I have found that the Anschutz action is not much different than the Remington 58x series actions in dimensions. This has to be dropped down in the stock a little bit more but you can get an idea how similar it is. For some people I'm sure using a crossbreed would never work but I don't think it's so bad. This whole side has some very nice grain and with the right finish will be very nice, the other side isn't quite as nice but it is OK.

How do you think this will look with an octagon barrel and a bolt handle like I described before?

 

Looking good. Please continue the postings to inspire us to do similar work.

Regards,

Dyson

 

DGNY, I think I will start another thread on this build. Here is the plan though with intent to end up with a very nice squirrel rifle/sporter.

1. 581 receiver drilled and tapped for 541 scope mounts.
2. GM barrel, profile round at receiver for approx 1" then octagon to end of forearm finishing with length more determined by balance, asthetics and if there is a tight point somewhere.
3. Either rework the factory trigger or a Timney I already have. I would like to make a new thumb knob that will be a little more attractive.
4. I will use the earlier shown SA 141 stock refinished, pillered and bedded, may possibly have the checkering recut, I use to do this myself but my eyes arent cooperating now.
5. Thinking about building new bottom metal with a door to cover the magazine but this will probably wait until the gun is up and running to see if it is worth the effort.
6. Rework the bolt truing the face and contact points between the body parts. I will then shim it back out to eliminate the slop. Also rework the firing pin and extractors. Build new bolt handle, spoon style with tear drop end to add some weight.
6. Rust blue the receiver and barrel.

If this turns out well I would possibly do a custom stock, Richards maybe in AA grade wood. May not need to do this though if this one turns out like I think it will. Some people will definately say that this receiver isnt worth the effort but I really like working with it. Fast lock time, and everything can be worked over and improved by myself. The other great thing about it is If it's a flop everything can be reused for other builds, just be out my time which I will have learned a lot and had a lot of fun so really out nothing.

What's your thoughts?

 

What's your thoughts?

I hope you don't mind some more input.
It sounds like you've got an interesting project planned. Regarding #6, I've never disassembled one of my bolts so my mechanical understanding may be way off base here. However if controlling headspace is your concern when removing metal in the truing process, wouldn't lengthening the tenon a corresponding amount work?

 

How difficult is it to modify the S/A stock to fit the 581? Does the bottom metal, trigger cut out, and action screw line up or can they be covered with the 581 bottom metal?

The one thing I've never liked about my 581 is the very plain wood on it and the cheap feeling stock profile which is really a bit too small for my large hands (and my son, who has commandeered the rifle). An Anschutz would be a much better fit. I also have an option for a very good barrel I need to check into to see if they are still available. Hate to change out the barrel on a rifle that shoots this well, but I hate the plastic barrel cover and I think the barrel I'm looking at will improve accuracy a good bit. Time will tell

Bob

 

First off of your not shooting with open sights I just take the plastic rear sight barrel cover off.

Next if you are ok with doing some work it is really a fairly simple procedure switching to the SA stock. The front action screw pillar needs to be removed then you can move the action screw forward just about half a hole and the action opening in front end about 1/16". The 581 bottom metal will cover almost all of the recess, you will have to extend the recess forward just a little. The rear has just a small area that shows. What I do is glass in where the middle screw goes and then also rhe rear screw hole and area. You will need to make a longer action screw, then I set it down in and snug up the action and bottom metal, Rem bottom metal is just a little wider so I like to widen the slot and recess the bottom metal, you can scrub around the bottom metal with a razor so it is easy to get exact. I also recontour the wood under the bottom as it is thicker on the SA, this allows the trigger to protrude as it should orherwise it is short. As you go you will see what I mean but not as hard as it sounds.

 

Thanks, I do lots of stock work so that part isn't a problem but I just didn't want to spend good money on a S/A stock and find out I had to butcher it to make everything work and look like it was made for it.

Bob

 

Indeed, seems to be a fine plan and intent. Will be handsome and practical!

Do you ever assemble the receiver, the barrel, the factory modified trigger, and worked-over bolt for firing in a jig for accuracy, before doing the stock work and bottom metal work? Not trying to suggest that you do so, but it would allow an accuracy and operations check before all the good cosmetics.

Of course, these rifles were pretty accurate from the factory when they were born - let alone with the modifications you propose.

Best regards and thanks,

Dyson

 

Dyson, funny you mentioned a jig as I was just talking about building one so I can really see what the changes are doing. One of the biggest reasons would be as I modify a barrel to see if it starts going south on me somewhere. I actually do have a stock with the barrel channel opened up that I can throw a 58x or 54x series action with about any barrel in and shoot.

Cowboy4, the reason for doing this is I want to eliminate as much slop and movement in the bolt as possible which in turn will make it even smoother. I may find that As it gets more rigid it starts having trouble picking up the round but I hope not. I'm sure some of the Remington experts or people like DJ and Ravage would be able to say if it matters. I guess the answer to your question is probably yes but that won't eliminate slop.

Thanks for the questions.

 

grg - we remain tuned in with great interest. Very impressed with your plan and imagination. And evident skills. That test mule of a stock is a fine idea.

Many thanks!

All best,

Dyson

 

Here is a link to this build getting started.

https://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?p=11205917#post11205917