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Suhl 150 Bolt Cap Issue

571 views 6 replies 4 participants last post by  MrG52D  
#1 ·
Hello, new to the whole forum thing so bear with me. I bought a Suhl 150 economically. It was missing two parts; the plunger and plunger spring. You know, those tiny ones that go into the bolt handle. Well, it took a couple months and having them sent from Germany. I get her all together and take about 7 shots and I am AMAZED by this gun and the TRIGGER.

After the 7th shot, I pull up on the bolt handle before even moving the bolt to eject the casing... the cap and sleeve just go flying off!!!! It startled the heck out of me. I double checked and I did not lose any parts thank goodness. So, here is the million dollar question.

Have any of you experienced this before? What is the solution? I got her all back together, but do not want to shoot her again until i get this resolved. Thanks for your insights.
 
#2 ·
Howdy TomCash,

I've got a custom Suhl built by a Friend who is no longer with us. I've not shot it yet.....I wanted him to shoot it before I did. But I've had the bolt apart several times.

The only thing I can think of is perhaps the cap was not turned in fully.

I had to push the cap on harder than I thought before turning it fully. If yours was not fully turned, perhaps that contributed to the issue.

There are two projections on the back of the bolt body that go in a groove in the bolt cap. I cannot imagine them breaking off. But the cap has to fully seat before turning it.

Hope this helps.

Take care,

Greg
 
#3 ·
bullseye4845
I will add to 404tbang in that your caps are not pressed in securely. The pf spring can be more difficult to press in if purchased rifle has the stronger spring of the Wolf, Anchutz 1700 spring. The factory fp spring is not as difficult, and when holding in the two caps, the open face is up, and I use a glove or a 4x4 piece of rubber tubing for purchase to press in the top cap in, and turn clockwise with a hard press until you feel the click that it is turned in completely. The pressure is from the firing spring spring. I, and many have changed my older spring into the 1700 spring for a better ignition if you have an older spring. I would recommend changing your springs if the rifle is with age. The new springs should be fine in ignition. Welcome to the Suhl 150 world, as there are many post of this rifle on this forum.
 
#4 ·
Thanks as this looks to be solid advice. I will check into it. Now, when following your suggestion, should the firing pin be cocked back or should it be forward uncocked? I put it together uncocked, then had to latch the firing pin back in order to get the bolt back in the gun.
 
#5 ·
I recommend letting someone who is familiar with the Suhl 150 to do the fp spring change, as it can be a problem if not replaced in the same exact position as when taking out of the receiver.
The 1700 spring is about 4.5 inches long, and factory is about 4 inches long when new. Your spring should be fine if not an old one. It is very critical that the gap space of bolt handle sleeve notch, and firing pin cocking ramp is .035, after decocking bolt.
You must use your calipers, and measure from top of cocking lug, and end of fp spring which is enclosed in metal. Mine is approximately 3.12, but can vary with each build. I measure from the front edge of cocking lug to bottom of fp spring, as if I measure at back of lug against the fp, there are several thousands difference in mine. You must replace exactly the measurements of fp spring when taking said item out of bolt when changing, or you will have ignition problems.
You will have to have a screwdriver, with a notch to remove the spring, and I again, recommend to let a person with knowledge of this procedure to change the fp spring; however, if your OCD is like mine, I wanted to learn how to change the spring, did a lot of searching on the Suhl forum, and there is a ton of info, and pictures to review, and learn about the Suhl 150 rifle.
When removing the bolt from receiver, it will be cocked, and when replacing back into receiver, if you have decocked pf, you will have to do what you have experienced. You can do the change of springs if you search the info, and read several times. Now, there is only the trigger, head space, bedding, optics, stock, barrel, and putting all together if you seek the "one hole" quest. It will depend upon you OCD.:)
I love my Suhl 150-1, but would rather have the faster barrel twist for all weather. I would get off on a good foot with the Suhl, and let a person familiar with the Suhl do the first spring change if you don't feel up to the changing. It has to be exact on the setting.
The fp change would probably be needed if light fp strikes on ammo.
 
#6 ·
I just fixed it. Apparently, the initial turn I did on the cap "felt" like it locked in place. So, I took a piece of rubber, gripped the cap and really torqued on it and it truly, solidly clicked into place. Thanks everyone.